Most of this information is from the Rottweiler Club of Victoria Inc
MEMBERS HANDBOOK
On May 22nd, 1971, a gathering at the home of Brian and Pat Dyson was held to gain support for the formation of the Rottweiler Club of Victoria. The emblem selected to represent the newly formed Club was that of the German town Rottweil. The aim of this Club is to protect and promote the Rottweiler. The first General Meeting was held on June 25th, 1971, 32 people were in attendance. Elected to Office were:
President: Tony Syme Vice Presidents: Brian Dyson and Peter Wilson
Secretary: David Slater Patron: Fred Watkins
The first Match (Parade) was held on July 30th, 1972 - entry of 47
The first Championship Show was held on March 25th, 1973 - entry of 61.
Victoria hosted a National Championship Show on March 10th & 11th, 1990 - entry of 407
The Rottweiler Club of Victoria Inc.:
This Standard is now out of date, however until I get the new one it is a good guide.
F.C.I. Standard No. 147 (11/9/92)
ORIGIN: Germany TRANSLATED BY: Mrs C. Seidler
BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY
The Rottweiler is considered to be one of the oldest breeds of dog. Its origin goes back to Roman times. These dogs were kept as herder or driving dog. They marched over the Alps with the Roman legions, protecting the humans and driving their cattle. In the region of Rottweil, these dogs met and mixed with the native dogs in a natural crossing.
The main task of the Rottweiler now became the driving and guarding of the herds of cattle and the defence of their masters and their property. This breed acquired its name from the old federal town of Rottweil and was known as the "Rottweil Butcher's Dog". The Butchers bred this type of dog purely for performance and usefulness. In due course, a first rate watch and droving dog evolved which could also be used as a draught dog.
When at the beginning of the twentieth century, various breeds were needed for police service, the Rottweiler was amongst those tested. It soon became evident that the breed was highly suitable for the tasks set by police service and therefore they were officially recognised as police dogs in 1910.
GENERAL APPEARANCE
The Rottweiler is a medium to large size, stalwart dog, neither heavy nor light and neither leggy nor weedy. His correctly proportioned, compact and powerful build leads to the conclusion of great strength, manoeuvrability and endurance.
IMPORTANT PROPORTIONS
The length of the body, measured from the sternum (breast bone) to the ischiatic tuberosity, should not exceed the height at the withers by, at most, 15%.
CHARACTERISTICS
Rottweiler breeders aim at a dog of abundant strength, black coated with clearly defined rich tan markings, whose powerful appearance does not lack nobility and which is exceptionally well suited to being a companion, security and working dog.
TEMPERAMENT
- Behaviour and Character
Being good natured, placid and fond of children in basic disposition, he is very devoted; obedient, biddable and eager to work. His appearance is natural and rustic, his behaviour self assured, steady and fearless. He reacts to his surroundings with great alertness.
HEAD AND SKULL
CRANIAL REGION
Of medium length, the skull broad between the ears. Forehead line moderately arched as seen from the side. Occipital bone well developed without being conspicuous.
STOP: Well defined.
FACIAL REGION
NOSE: Straight nasal bridge broad at base, moderately tapered. Nose well developed, more broad than round with relatively large nostrils, always black.
MUZZLE: The foreface should appear neither elongated nor shortened in relation to the cranial region.
LIPS: Black, close fitting, corner mouth not visible, gums as dark as possible.
JAW: Upper and lower jaw, strong and broad.
CHEEKS: Zygomatic arches pronounced.
SKIN: Skin on the head is overall tight fitting. When the dog is alert, the forehead may be slightly wrinkled.
EYES: of medium size, almond shaped, dark brown in colour. Eyelids close fitting.
EARS: Medium sized, pendant, triangular, wide apart, set on high. The close fitting ears, set well forward, give the impression of a broad skull.
TEETH: Strong, complete dentition (42 teeth) with scissor bite, the upper incisors closely overlapping the lower incisors.
NECK: Of fair length, well muscled, slightly arched, free from throatiness, without dewlap.
FOREQUARTERS
Seen from the front, the front legs are straight and not placed too closely to each other. The forearm, seen from the side, looks straight. The slope of the shoulderblade is about 45 degrees to the horizontal.
SHOULDERS: Well laid back.
UPPER ARM: Close fitting to the body.
FOREARM: Strongly developed and muscled.
PASTERNS: Slightly springy, strong not straight.
BODY
BACK: Straight, strong, sturdy. Loins short, strong and deep.
CROUP: Broad, of medium length, slightly rounded. Neither flat nor falling away.
CHEST: Roomy, broad and deep (approximately 50% of the shoulder height) with well developed fore-chest and well sprung ribs.
BELLY: Flanks not tucked up.
HINDQUARTERS
Seen from behind, legs straight and not too close together. When standing fee, obtuse angles are formed between the dog's upper thigh and the hip bone, the upper thigh and the lower thigh and the metatarsal.
UPPER THIGH: Moderately long, broad and well muscled.
LOWER THIGH: Long, strong, broadly muscled at top and sinewy below, merging into sturdy well angulated hocks, not straight.
FEET
Front: Round, tight and well arched; pads hard, nails short, black and strong.
Rear: Slightly longer than the front feet. Just as tight. Arched and with strong toes. No rear dewclaws.
TAIL
Docked at the first or second joint. In those countries where docking is forbidden by law, the tail may be left in its natural state.
MOVEMENT
The Rottweiler is a trotting dog. In movement the back remains firm and relatively stable. Movement harmonious, steady, full of energy and unrestricted, with good stride.
COAT
TEXTURE OF THE COAT: The coat consists of a top coat and an undercoat. The top coat is of medium length, coarse, dense and flat. The undercoat must not show through the top coat. The hair is a little longer on the buttocks.
COLOUR
Black with clearly defined markings of a rich tan on the cheeks, muzzle, throat, chest and legs, as well as over both eyes and under the base of the tail.
SIZE
MALES: Shoulder height for males 61-68 cm.
FEMALES: Shoulder height for bitches is 56-63 cm
61 - 62 cm is small 56 - 57 cm is small
63 - 64 cm is medium height 58 - 59 cm is medium height
65 - 66 cm is large - correct height 60 - 61 cm is large - correct height
67-68 cm is very large 62 - 63 cm is very large
Weight is approximately 50 kg Weight is approximately 42 kg
FAULTS
GENERAL APPEARANCE: light, racy, weedy appearance. Light in bone and muscle.
HEAD: hound type head. Narrow, light, too short, too long or coarse. Flat forehead. Lack of stop or too little.
FOREFACE: Long or pointed muzzle; split nose; roman or dished nose; aquiline nose, pale or spotted nose.
JAWS: Narrow lower jaw.
LIPS: pendulous, pink or patchy; corner of lips visible.
CHEEKS: Strongly protruding cheeks.
SKIN: Wrinkles on head.
EARS: Set on too low, heavy, long, slack or turned backwards. Also flying ears or ears not carried symmetrically.
EYES: Light, showing haw, deep set. Also round eyes.
BITE: Pincer Bite
NECK: Too long, too thin, lacking muscle. Showing dewlap or throaty.
FOREQUARTERS: Narrow or crooked front legs. Steep shoulder placement. Loose or out at elbow. Too long, too short or too straight in upper arm. Weak or straight pasterns. Splayed feet. Too flat or too arched toes. Deformed toes. Light coloured nails.
BODY: Too long, too short or too narrow.
CHEST: Flat ribbed or barrel shaped. Lack of spring.
BACK: Too long, weak; sway-back or roach back.
CROUP: Croup too sloping, too short, too flat or too long.
HINDQUARTERS: Flat thighs, hocks too close, cow hocks or open hocked. Joints with too little or too much angulation. Dewclaws.
TAIL: Set on high or to low.
COAT: Soft, too short or too long. Wavy coat, lack of undercoat.
COLOUR: Mismarking. Smudged, not clearly defined markings. Markings which are too spread out.
DISQUALIFYING FAULTS
GENERAL: Marked reversal of sexual type, ie., feminine dogs or masculine bitches.
BEHAVIOUR: Anxious, shy, cowardly, gun-shy, vicious, excessively suspicious, nervous animals.
EYES: Entropian, ectropian, yellow eyes, different coloured eyes.
TEETH: Overshot or undershot bite, missing premolars or molars.
COAT TEXTURE: Very long or wavy coat.
COAT COLOUR: Dogs which do not show the typical Rottweiler colouring of black with tan markings. White Markings.
NOTE: Males must have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.
The Rottweiler is a slow maturing animal and you need to keep your puppy slim during its growth stages. Look for the slight indentation behind the ribs - this is the waistline. The ribs should be easily felt under the skin if the dog is in correct condition and the waistline should be present. Individuals vary in their requirements - if your Rottweiler is leaving food, you are feeding too much.
FAT DOGS ARE THE RESULT OF THE OWNERS LACK OF THOUGHT.
RULES FOR FEEDING
DRY FOOD any complete puppy chow is suitable.
MEAT Should only be 20% of your dog's diet. Suitable meats are lamb, chicken, ox cheek, beef, kangaroo. However if you are using a complete meat diet (not recommended) you will need to add Calcium to balance the Calcium /Potassium levels.
CALCIUM is only necessary if you are feeding an all meat diet. Balance the meat with 2 teaspoons of calcium with each 500 gram of meat.
TIN FOOD Such as Pal Puppy Food. Like Puppy Chow, this is a complete food and has all the nourishment a growing animal needs.
BONES Suitable bones to chew are marrow and brisket bones. Never cooked bones or chicken bones. These can splinter and pierce the dog's stomach.
You may wish to add fresh or cooked vegetables, rice, oatmeal, garlic and fruit.
No additives such as Calcium or Vitamins are necessary with a balanced diet.
Such additives may cause bone problems.
SUGGESTED DIET
8 WEEKS Three meals a day plus a bone or hard biscuit to chew.
BREAKFAST
Oatmeal porridge with two tablespoons of milk.
(Powdered milk may prevent loose motions) OR
Slice of wholegrain bread, butter and honey or vegemite,
plus a cup or milk, OR
Half a cup of puppy dry food and milk to drink.
LUNCH Half a cup of stew - made of mutton, vegetables
and pasta. OR
Half a cup of puppy pal (from tin) plus biscuit to
chew.
DINNER Half a cup of dry puppy food plus a quarter tin puppy pal. Finely chopped parsley and grated carrot. Brisket bone to chew.
NOTE Yoghurt or cottage cheese can be used instead of milk.
10 WEEKS Double quantities previously given
16 WEEKS Feed two meals a day while keeping the waistline. (Indentation behind the ribs).
12 MONTHS Fast growing period is over. Change over to Adult dry food.
A dog is not a toy, a plaything, an ego trip, or a child substitute. The dog has been the companion of man for thousands of years but he retains all the instinctive behaviour of his wild ancestors. Today with our changing society and subsequent stress we tend to forget that dogs are not humans but a different species. A species that comes from a social structure similar to man and hence can adapt to living with man provided that certain needs are met.
It is vital, if you are to have a happy rewarding relationship with your dog that YOU are the pack leader. A dog sees a weak person as one who is not worthy of respect and he will take over the lead position. We all know dogs that run their various households - the dog wants a walk, the dog want his dinner, the dog does not like you to sit there, the dog does not like Auntie Jessie etc. These dogs have taken the leadership in their households, This may not be a problem. BUT allow a ROTTWEILER to call the tune and you are asking for trouble.
If you are in the habit of allowing the dog to dictate to you, eg., who sits where. You cannot blame the dog when, if he is pulled off his chair and dragged outside, he challenges your right to demand this action of him. You say "The dog growled at me". Of course he did; you have given him every reason to believe that he is in charge so why shouldn't he challenge a threat to his position.
The size of a Rottweiler coupled with his strength of character will cause problems right from the time you take your puppy home if you do not establish yourself as the pack leader in your household. The dog will be quite happy with what ever position he is allotted. For household harmony that position should be at the bottom of the human pack. Then the dog respects you and all the family. Current problems overseas are mainly caused by lack of understanding of the above concept. The Rottweiler is a wonderful companion / guard, providing he is in the hands of a responsible caring owner who has taken the trouble to investigate the Character of the Breed and to learn about the drives and instincts that all dogs are born with, ie., inherited drives and behaviour. This is set and cannot be changed by man, only modified for man's use.
THE AIM OF SOCIALISATION
To teach the dog those things he would not learn unless instructed, ie., not to wet in the house and all other social activities which are not inherent in the dog but necessary for him to fit into our society.
To inhibit and channel those natural activities that are instinctive to the dog. Again so he can become a useful member of society and contented to use his instinct in a positive way, ie., to fetch articles on command and bring them to his owner, not to drag the washing off the line and bury them.
Socialisation is continuous throughout the life of the dog, but the first 16 weeks is vital. Miss taking the time during this period to introduce your pup to various situations in a non stressful way and you will never have the dog you could have had.
CRITICAL PERIOD
Birth to 7 weeks. Puppies learn to accept discipline from their Dam and to interact with their litter mates. They learn to be functional animals within the pack. To give correct signals and responses to other dogs.
SOCIALISATION PERIOD
7 to 12 weeks. At this age the dog is capable of learning anything as its brain has the capacity of an adult dog. This is a valuable period and should not be wasted. Spend as much time as you can introducing your dog to all the things he will encounter during his lifetime. Introduce him to other animals that are non-threatening. Things that are learned at this time are retained. Concentration is limited so teaching should be short and happy.
FEAR PERIOD
This period occurs sometime between 8 and 16 weeks. Things that a pup happily accepted before, may or a short time appear threatening and produce fear in the puppy. Recognise that this is just a stage and will pass. Do not force the puppy to confront the thing he fears. Just be calm and non fearful yourself, treat the thing that puppy fears with disdain and he will take his cue from you. Do not over protect or display too much concern.
FITTING INTO POSITION IN YOUR FAMILY GROUP 12 to 16 weeks
This is the testing period when the puppy decides whether he is number two in your family or comes after all the other family members. The puppy will test you and the other family members to find his place. Things like biting at the lead or his owner should be discouraged and firmly corrected. All family members should be able to direct the puppy and expect him to comply. Puppy should now be sleeping all night quietly in his own bed and be walking well on a lead. He should know his name by now and be able to stay quietly by himself without howling or barking and should not destroy things.
At this stage you might believe that your puppy has all of a sudden become deaf. They attempt to ignore you, make sure that you are in a position to make the puppy listen. This period only lasts a short time but is always sometime around the 4th to 6th month.
SECOND FEAR PERIOD 6 to 14 months
Your puppy may suddenly become terror stricken about something he has seen many times before. This is illogical behaviour and like a child having a nightmare. Just be calm and reassuring and avoid confrontation while the puppy is unable to cope. This will soon pass if you don't make an issue of the fear. Work on having the puppy learn to rely on you for guidance and support, while learning to be independent. Rottweilers are naturally aware of changes in their surrounding and may act as if they are wary of new things and people. Do not reassure the pup in these circumstances. Just act as if the object is of no consequence to you and the pup will take the cue from you. If you pat and cosset the puppy when it acts afraid the message the dog will get is that it is okay to act in this manner. Far from it, we want our pups to grow into self confident adults.
ADOLESCENCE 12 to 24 months
Your puppy begins to assert himself and to regard all other dogs as potential rivals. This behaviour is not cute and is not socially acceptable. Do not applaud or condone it. Concentrate on reinforcing your earlier training and demand respect and attention from your dog. Be firm, fair and consistent with your discipline. Distract the dog and avoid confrontations with other dogs which will only reinforce the behaviour. This behaviour will settle if not reinforced.
Weston, D. Dog Training the Gentle Modern Method $18.95( ideal first book for training the puppy)
Fogle, B. The Dogs Mind $19.95
(For those interested in dog behaviour. Detailed explanation of how dogs see the world and relate to their owners plus how they learn.)
Bergman, G. Why does my dog do that? $43.95 (Excellent dog behaviour book)
Bauman, D. Beyond Basic Training $42.00 (For the serious dog trainer)
Blogg, R. Dr Everydog $26.00
(Excellent for general information on all dog ailments)
Fisher, J. Why does my dog? $45.00
(Another book on dog behaviour, very easy to read and understand. Looks at using the natural behaviour of the dog for training the easy way)
The Rottweiler Club of Victoria has a large stock of excellent titles about the Breed available. For enquiries about our range of books and prices please contactme if you are interested in purchasing any of these books
Underlying all of these activities is general obedience training. If you cannot get to an RCV Inc obedience venue then this can be acheived at very little cost in your local area. Contact your local City Council to find out where dog obedience training is conducted. A full years membership to your local obedience club will be around $50-$100. Remember that the training trains both the dog and the handler so don't fall for getting someone else to train your dog for you. IT DOES NOT WORK! Paying more for training does not make it better or easier.
Showing
Open to pedigree, registered Rottweilers belonging to VCA Members. The Showring is the window on the breed. Learning to show your dog is not easy but it has many rewards. Dog shows were evolved so that the best conformation dogs were known and were then chosen for breeding. Many people show for social reasons and enjoy the day out with their dogs. If sufficient points are gained the dog is eligible to become a Champion. The name of your dog then has "CH" in front of it.
There are two main types of shows - Open and Championship Shows. As a member of your Canine body you will receive a monthly magazine with the schedules of forthcoming shows. The Schedule will provide all details necessary to complete your show entry. Entry forms are available from the VCA Inc, Royal Showgrounds, Epsom Road, Ascot Vale 3023. Details of the age groups are on the back of the entry forms. Go along and watch a few shows before you enter so you will have an idea of how they operate and what you will be required to do.
Trialing
Associate registration is available for those who do not have the registration papers with their dog Titles can be gained in Obedience Trials. Titles available are CD - Companion Dog, CDX - Companion Dog Excellent, UD - Utility Dog. Obedience Titles go after the dogs name. At a Trial it is you and your dog competing against the Rules. Rule books with full explanations are available from the local Obedience Club or direct from the VCA. There are in excess of 35 Obedience Clubs affiliated with the VCA Inc. The social side of Obedience is great, the big plus is that while enjoying the competition, you will also have a well trained, well behaved obedient dog as a bonus!
Agility
Open to all VCA Members with registered or associate dogs. Dogs are required to complete an obstacle course within a specified time, the fastest wins. The Rules are available from the VCAInc in booklet form. Speed and control are the necessary ingredients.
Tracking
After gaining one pass to CD Title all dogs are able to enter Tracking. First Track is a Preliminary Track of 300 metres with one turn. The track layer is to be found at the end of the Track. After this, possible titles are TD and TDX.
Carting
Anyone with a large good natured dog can enjoy carting. A club is in the formative stages. Rottweilers have a history of use as carting dogs. Great for the breed and the dogs love to be the centre of attention. Learn from our Members who are experienced in this sport. Carts can be plain or extremely elaborate. Rottweilers love to show off when pulling a cart.
Dog Sport
A Sport which involves Obedience, Tracking and Protection. Taught in Clubs formed specifically for that purpose. The Rottweiler is one of the Breeds acceptable for this sport. The dog must have a good temperament to be successful. This sport requires great commitment and lots of training.
IF CORRECTLY BRED AND WELL SOCIALISED, YOUR DOG WILL NATURALLY GUARD.
ATTACK TRAINED DOGS ARE A LEGAL LIABILITY.
This term refers to the shape and fit of the ball of the Femur with the Socket of the Hip. It is believed to be part inherited and part environmental. Breeders must stress to their puppy people the environmental aspect of Hip Dysplasia. Allowing pups to become overweight and / or run about on slippery surfaces is inviting trouble. These are fast growing animals and care must be taken during the formative stages.
The Rottweiler Club of Victoria expects that Members will X-ray their dogs to ascertain their hip status so that information useful to the breed can be accumulated. The Code of Ethics (5) states that before breeding all Rottweilers must conform to the Rottweiler Club of Victoria Inc. requirements re hip, eye and mouth status.
The National Rottweiler Council (Australia) Hip Dysplasia Scheme states that Rottweilers with a grading of 0, 1, 2 or 3 are suitable for breeding. The Grade, plus a Lawson/Willis score are allocated to each X-ray read by Professor Wyburn. The Lawson/Willis score only becomes relevant when considering a breeding pair. The National Rottweiler Council (Australia) Hip Dysplasia Scheme allows that the combined score of a breeding pair must not exceed 25.
To qualify as suitable for breeding the Rottweiler must have a satisfactory hip assessment from Professor Wyburn that meets all the National Rottweiler Council (Australia) Hip Dysplasia Scheme requirements (see below) and a satisfactory Eye and Mouth Certificate. It is wise to remember that good hips do not necessarily mean a well constructed animal and that a Rottweiler is more than a set of hips. Particular attention should be paid to other aspects of the dog, especially the temperament. Good hips should be considered as only part of the whole dog when deciding on the breed worthiness of a particular animal.
Currently there is no Elbow Dysplasia Scheme within the R.C.V. and no restrictions are placed on Rottweilers with regard to their Elbow Gradings by the R.C.V. Elbow x-raying is not compulsory although highly recommended. This is a major problem in the breed. Responsible breeders are attending to this problem by also having the elbows x-rayed at the same time as the hips.
If you wish to have the elbows of your dog x-rayed this option is open to you. A flexed elbow x-ray is required, clearly indicating Left and Right and the tattoo number of the animal. This x-ray is taken at the same time as the hip x-ray and forwarded to Professor Wyburn along with hip x-ray and the completed paperwork. Cost of reading the elbow x-ray is included in the $30 fee. Gradings are those used by the International Elbow Working Group, 0, Borderline, 1, 2, 3. The A.V.A. recommends that Normal, Borderline and Grade 1 are acceptable for breeding, Grade 2 and 3 are unacceptable. At present the A.V.A and the V.C.A. are working on an Elbow Dysplasia Scheme similar to the pedigree endorsement scheme currently in operation for satisfactory hips. When this scheme is implemented, Rottweilers will be able to gain a pedigree endorsement for satisfactory elbows.
Steps to Follow to have your adult Rottweiler tested and scored for hip dysplasia with the Rottweiler Club of Victoria:
NOTE: The Hip X-ray and Dental and Eye Examination can be done by any Veterinarian. It is possible to get a Specialist Eye Examination, although not compulsory, it is highly recommended. Ask your vet for a contact number.
What does it mean?
The [A] is a pedigree endorsement for satisfactory hips which is awarded by the Victorian Canine Association (V.C.A.). The scheme was devised by the V.C.A. Hereditary Diseases Committee in conjunction with the Australian Veterinary Association (A.V.A.) and the Rottweiler Club of Victoria. Basically, all dogs who receive a grading of 0, 1, 2 or 3 (regardless of the Lawson/Willis Score), who comply with all the requirements of the National Rottweiler Council (Australia) H. D. Scheme and who are registered with the V.C.A. and whose owner is a Member of the V.C.A. are eligible to receive an [A].
How do I get an [A]?
First you must comply with the requirements of the NRC Hip Dysplasia Scheme. The Rottweiler must be at least twelve months of age. You must be issued with a tattoo number by the Rottweiler Club of Victoria in the accepted tattoo format of "3AA001". The Club will supply you with the appropriate forms to be completed by yourself and the Veterinarian at time of x-ray. When the Rottweiler is X-rayed, the number is tattooed in the ear (Rottweilers tattooed as puppies will already have a number tattooed in their ear) and the x-ray plate is marked with the tattoo number and usually the registration number of the dog. The x-rays and forms are then forwarded to Professor Wyburn to be assessed. Results come direct from the Professor Wyburn to the Rottweiler Club. If your Rottweiler receives a satisfactory grading, you are eligible for an [A]. The Rottweiler Club then supplies the V.C.A. with a list of qualifying dogs and the V.C.A. records are updated.
The [A] is not available to dogs registered in other states, or to dogs who belong to non V.C.A. members. It is also not available, even though a dog may have an acceptable grading, to those dogs who do not have a tattoo number issued by the Rottweiler Club of Victoria or who do not comply with other components of the Scheme.
How do I know if I my dog has an [A]?
The Club can tell you if your dog qualifies and whether they have been allocated an [A]. If you are unsure, contact the Club. The V.C.A. will not issue a new registration certificate when the dog obtains an [A]. The only time you will get the actual paperwork with the [A] next to your dog's name is if you send your registration to the V.C.A. for some reason eg. you obtain a title or ownership of the animal is transferred. Then a new registration certificate is issued and the [A] will appear. If you breed a litter, the registration certificates issued for the puppies will also have the [A] added. In the meantime use the [A] every time you write your dog's name if you are certain your dog qualifies.
If you receive a reissued pedigree or registration certificates for puppies that do not contain [A]'s when you think they should, contact the Club who will take up the issue on your behalf with the V.C.A.
Before contemplating Breeding, talk to other Breeders.
The Bitch owner has all the work and most of the responsibility and expense.
Allow your bitch to mature. The R.C.V. Inc. requires that bitches be at least 22 months of age at time of mating, This is to allow for maturity and to make sure that any inherited diseases are not present.
First, check the FCI Standard included in this handbook to determine conformation and temperament faults that may be apparent in your bitch. Learn about the Breed.
ASK YOURSELF: Have you the time and space to breed a litter?
Have you the cash for the stud fee?
(Stud fees vary from $400 to $1000 with Imports being dearer but not necessarily better)
Have you sufficient ready money to pay vets?
(Vets fees for a normal litter range from $400 upwards to $2000 if complications occur)
Will you be able to find suitable homes for all the puppies?
(Remember the bitch may have a large litter)
Are you prepared to take back puppies that may have become problems? Are you prepared to refund money?
(The bitch owner is responsible for advertising the puppies and replacing any problem puppies and refunding monies where problems have occurred.)
STEPS TO TAKE: Apply to the Club for the necessary forms and tattoo number to have your bitches hips x-rayed and the results read by Professor Wyburn.
Obtain an eye and mouth certificate.
Satisfactory for breeding are all Rottweilers of good temperament with none of the following: Hip Dysplasia, Entropian, Ectropian or other eye abnormalities. Undershot, overshot or wry mouth. Incomplete dentition, extreme shyness or viciousness towards people, total absence of tan markings, yellow or bird of prey eyes or eyes not of the same colour. White marks and OCD.
Contact the VCA Inc. and have them send you the form required for registering a Kennel Name, plus a Litter Registration form.
Keep your VCA Inc. Membership up to date and make sure you have transferred ownership of the bitch from the breeder to yourself prior to the mating.
Having decided that your bitch is breed worthy, her character is that of a correct Rottweiler (calm and stable), she has no disqualifying faults and no inherited problems and you have the time, space and money to raise a litter, you can progress to the next step.
SELECTING A SIRE: The sire should compliment the bitch. As well as having acceptable Hip, Eye and Mouth Certificates he should have correct Rottweiler Character - calm and stable.
Pedigree, conformation and temperament should all be considered.
Make a booking with the Stud Dog owner giving the possible time of the bitches heat. Do not wait until the bitch is in season before contacting the Stud Dog owner. Some dogs are booked up in advance and you may not be able to use your first choice.
Have another dog in reserve in case the dog you have chosen is not available when required.
Read and discuss the Stud Dog Agreement with the Stud Dog owner.
WHAT NEXT: Keep your bitch fit and healthy and trim off any extra weight.
Make sure worming and vaccination is up to date prior to mating.
Wait approximately 63 days for whelping. Now you are a "breeder". Your actions from this time will determine whether you are a responsible, ethical and caring breeder. A lot of heartache is the norm for breeders.
PLEASE CONSIDER CAREFULLY BEFORE BREEDING
Before considering using your dog at stud read carefully the FCI Standard. Be honest with yourself, does your dog have anything to offer the breed? The bitch owner should be looking for a dog with good breed type and correct demeanour. Is your dog a Champion? Does he have working titles? The bitch owner is looking for a selling point for puppies. Generally, to be a successful Stud Dog the dog must have something special above other dogs, such as Conformation or Working titles or an excellent pedigree. Why use your dog if others are better qualified?
TEMPERAMENT IS A VITAL PART OF THE CORRECT ROTTWEILER.
A CALM, STABLE SELF CONFIDENT DOG IS DESIRED.
THE STUD DOG: Must have Hip Eye and Mouth Certificates that meet the standard required by the RCV Inc.
The bitch owner will require a copy of your dog's pedigree, hip, eye and mouth certificates and possibly a photo to show prospective puppy buyers.
The Stud Dog must be fit and healthy. (Failure to disclose any corrective operation or known fault to the bitch owner is dishonest and will rebound on you and your dog.)
The Stud Dog owner must have some knowledge of canine reproduction and be able to tell if a bitch is ready for mating. The owner must also be able to assist in the mating.
If the bitch is coming from a fair distance the Stud Dog owner may be required to accommodate her over the period when the mating will take place.
The Stud Dog Owner would be wise to use some kind of Stud Service Agreement to avoid any misunderstanding about the terms of the mating agreement.
Normally the payment for a stud dog is for the mating only, not for puppies. The stud fee is paid at time of mating and the blue litter registration form is signed by the stud dog owner and dated. The stud dog owner must be a VCA Inc. member, or if the dog is owned by persons interstate, the dog must be on the V.C.A. Inc. register.
THE STUD DOG OWNER SHOULD: