WHELPING HINTS. NORMAL GESTATION TIME IS 63 DAYS.

HEALTHY STRONG PUPPIES CAN BE 5 DAYS EITHER SIDE OF THIS DAY ie. FROM 58 TO 68 DAYS.

AS LONG AS THE PUPPIES CAN BE FELT MOVING AND ARE sOMEWHAT RESPONSIVE TO TOUCH THERE IS NO NEED TO WORRY ABOUT A BITCH WHO IS OVERDUE. HOWEVER, ALWAYS HAVE A VET CHECK THE BITCH IF SHE HAS NOT DELIVERED BY 66 DAYS. A HIGH NUMBER OF BITCHES LOSE "WHELPING GEL", A CLEAR STICKY/SLIMY DISCHARGE (SIMILAR TO RAW EGG WHITE) FROM THE VAGINA FOR UP TO 10 DAYS BEFORE WHELPING. MOST START "NESTING" (DIGGING AT THEIR BEDDING) ABOUT ONE WEEK PRIOR TO WHELPING. THEY SHOULD HAVE BEEN INTRODUCED TO THE BOX YOU INTEND FOR THEM TO DELIVER IN BY THIS TIME. THE IDEAL SIZE FOR A WHELPING BOX IS ONE LONG ENOUGH FOR THE BITCH TO LAY STRAIGHT OUT TOUCHING HEAD AND TAIL TO THE ENDS OR ONLY SLIGHTER LONGER, IT SHOULD BE RECTANGULAR IN SHAPE. THE ONLY POSITIVE EARLY SIGN THAT YOUR BITCH IS GOING INTO LABOUR IS THAT HER TEMPERATURE WILL DROP TO 37c OR 36.5c 12 TO 24 HOURS BEFOREHAND. THEREFORE, IT IS AN IDEA TO TAKE HER TEMPERATURE ONCE A DAY FROM ABOUT 57 DAYS. SHIVERING ALMOST CONTINUOUSLY MEANS LABOUR HAS BEGUN. THERE IS NO TIME LIMIT ON THE EARLY STAGES OF LABOUR AND FALSE LABOUR IS NOT UNCOMMON. MILD CONTRACTIONS SHIFT THE PUPPIES ALONG THE UTERUS AND POSITION THEM READY FOR DELIVERY THESE CONTRACTIONS CAN BE SEEN AND FELT BUT ARE USUALLY OF SHORT DURATION.

STRONG CONTRACTIONS ARE NECESSARY TO EXPEL THE PUPS.

EACH CONTRACTION IS SUSTAINED FOR 2 TO 3 SECONDS WITH A CHARACTERISTIC RAISING AND LOOPING OF THE TAIL. USUALLY THERE IS 5 TO 8 CONTRACTIONS OF THIS TYPE WITHIN 1 MINUTE TO PRODUCE A PUP. HOWEVER SOME BITCHES WILL HAVE THESE CONTRACTIONS AT INTERVALS OF 15 MINUTES WITH GOOD RESTS BETWEEN. IF NO PUPPY IS FORTHCOMING AFTER 1 TO 2 HOURS OF GOOD HARD WORK SEEK A VETS ADVICE. INERTIA: UTERINE INERTIA IS UNMISTAKABLE, USUALLY AFTER GOOD SOLID PUSHING CONTRACTIONS THE BITCH JUST STOPS, SHE USUALLY SITS AS IF IN A TRANCE, LOOKING PUZZLED AND DEPRESSED. SOME WILL LOOK QUITE AT EASE AND EVEN LAY DOWN TO SLEEP. UNLESS THERE IS A HISTORY OF INERTIA DON'T WORRY TOO MUCH SHE MAY NOT BE FULLY DILATED AND IS TRULY RESTING, LEAVE HER TO REST FOR HALF AN HOUR THEN TRY 1. TAKING HER TO THE TOILET; 2. LEAD HER BRISKLY FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES 3. APPLY HOT TOWELS OR A HOT WATER BOTTLE TO HER TUMMY 4. FIRM BUT GENTLE MASSAGE OF HER BELLY AND FLANK AREA IN A DOWNWARD MOTION ONLY. IF THERE IS STILL NO PROGRESS OVER THE NEXT HOUR OR SO ADVISE YOUR VET. NOW THE PUPPIES ARE SAFELY CURLED UP WITH THEIR DAM THERE ARE A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO DO TO KEEP PUPPIES AND THE BITCH IN THE BEST OF HEALTH. THE FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT IS TO TAKE THEM TO THE VET. THERE COULD BE A PROBLEM WITH THE NEWBORN PUPS THAT YOU MAY HAVE MISSED AND THAT MAY REQUIRE SPECIAL MANAGEMENT, BUT PRIMARILY TO HAVE THE BITCH CHECKED OUT AND GIVEN A POST WHELPING INJECTION WHICH ASSISTS IN THE CLEARING OUT OF ANY DEBRIS IN THE UTERUS. IF THIS IS NOT DONE IT CAN CONTRIBUTE TO TOXIC MILK, LIVER PROBLEMS KIDNEY PROBLEMS AND A GENERAL TOXAEMIA OR SEPTICEMIA IN THE BITCH AND A CONDITION CALLED METRITIS WHICH CAN PREVENT ANY FURTHER BREEDING AND IN FACT CAN LEAD TO SPAYING TO SAVE THE BITCH.

SOME HELPFUL HINTS FOR WHELPING.

STAGE ONE CAN TAKE FROM 1 HOUR TO 24 HOURS.

STAGE TWO CAN TAKE FROM 20 MINUTES TO 2 HOURS EACH PUP.

ALL PUPS ARE BORN WITH EYES AND EARS SEALED SHUT.

WEIGH PUPS DAILY, IF THEY FAIL TO GAIN ANY WEIGHT FOR MORE THAN 2 DAYS IN SUCCESSION YOU MAY HAVE PROBLEMS.

CHECK FOR FRONT AND REAR DEWCLAWS AND EXTRA, MISSING OR DEFORMED TOES. IN ADDITION, RUN YOUR FINGER DOWN THE TAIL BOTH SIDES AND TOP AND UNDERSIDE CHECKING FOR KINKS.

DEWCLAWS SHOULD BE REMOVED BETWEEN 3 AND 5 DAYS IF THE PUPS ARE PROGRESSING WELL.

KEEP THE BITCH IN YOUR ROOM CLOSE TO YOUR BED FROM 55 DAYS GESTATION TO AT LEAST 3 WEEKS AFTER DELIVERY, SO YOU CAN HEAR HER NESTING IF SHE GOES INTO EARLY LABOUR (FALSE LABOUR IS NOT UNCOMMON).

AFTER THE BIRTH IF A PUPPY WANDERS OR IS BUMPED AWAY FROM THE DAM NO MATTER HOW MUCH HE CRIES SHE WILL NOT GO TO HELP THAT PUP SO YOU NEED TO HELP IT BACK TO ITS MUM OR IT WILL QUICKLY GET COLD AND HUNGRY AND WILL PROBABLY DIE.

AT 2 1/2 TO 3 WEEKS OLD THE PUPS WILL BEGIN TO LEAVE THE NEST TO TOILET ON PAPER AND MAKE THEIR WAY BACK TO THEIR BED. AT THIS STAGE IT IS SAFE TO RELAX YOUR VIGILANCE, KNOWING THAT THEY CAN NOW NAVIGATE BACK TO THE SOURCE OF FOOD AND WARMTH WITHOUT HELP.

FEEL THE HEAD CAREFULLY FOR THE PRESENCE OR ABSENCE OF THE MOLERA CHECK THE HEAD WEEKLY TO SEE IF THE MOLERA IS OPENING OR CLOSING AS TIME PROGRESSES ALSO CHECK THE ENTIRE HEAD TO SEE IF THEIR IS ONLY THE ONE MOLERA AS MORE CAN DEVELOP AFTER BIRTH.

TAKE MENTAL NOTE OF THE TENSION IN EACH PUPPIES MOLERA AS A TIGHT OR INFLATED FEEL CAN SIGNAL TROUBLE.

A LOT OF PUPPIES CAN LOOK UNDERSHOT AT BIRTH DON'T WORRY THAT IS NORMAL AND MOST WILL HAVE GOOD BITE WHEN THEY ARE A LITTLE MORE DEVELOPED.

EYES OPEN FROM THE INSIDE CORNER FIRST AT AROUND 10 DAYS IT CAN TAKE 2 DAYS FOR THE EYES TO OPEN FULLY. MOST DON'T NEED BATHING OPEN AND SOME ARE AS LATE AS 17 DAYS.

MOST PUPPIES LOOK A BIT NOSEY AND BUG EYED AND SOME A BIT PLAIN IN HEAD BUT THIS IS DUE TO THE BIRTH PASSAGE THEY LOOK LONGER IN BODY ALSO IN 2 TO 3 DAYS THEY LOOK LIKE BEAUTIFULLY SHAPED BABIES. SO IF THEY LOOK GOOD AT BIRTH THEY ARE GOING TO LOOK EVEN BETTER STILL IN A FEW DAYS.

QUICK GUIDE TO NORMAL WHELPING.

1. DROP IN TEMPERATURE TO 99f OR 37c 24 HOURS TO 48 HOURS PRIOR TO WHELPING -PHASE 1 HAS STARTED.-

2. THE BITCH LIES ON HER BELLY WITH HER HEAD BETWEEN HER FORELEGS. -"THE POSE"-

3. SHE IS SHIVERY, BECOMES RESTLESS SHIFTING POSITIONS FROM SITTING, LAYING ON HER LEFT SIDE THE HER RIGHT SIDE THIS IS A SURE SIGN LABOR HAS STARTED.

4. SHE LOOKS AT HER VULVA, LICKS AT IT, THEN MAY CLEAN THE NIPPLES.

5. SHE MAY REFUSE FOOD FROM NOW TILL AFTER WHELPING IS COMPLETED. PUPPIES MAY BE VERY STILL NOW IN A RESTING PHASE.

6. BITCH MAY HAVE SPELLS OF SHIVERING AND PANTING AND SHE MAY START DIGGING AND TEARING AT HER BEDDING.

7. THE VULVA IS SWOLLEN AND FLACCID (SOFT) AND MAY HAVE CLEAR MUCOUS DISCHARGE "WHELPING GEL" SHE MAY WANT TO TOILET MORE OFTEN THAN IS USUAL.

8. SHE WILL HOOK HER TAIL DOWN AND AROUND "CUP HANDLE" AND YOU CAN SEE THE CONTRACTIONS THE BITCH WILL BE PUSHING AND STRAINING, BEARING DOWN TO EXPEL THE FIRST PUP. -STAGE TWO- HAS BEGUN.

9. A MAIDEN BITCH MAY BE FRIGHTENED AT THIS STAGE AND TRY TO HIDE. KEEP HER CALM AND IN THE WHELPING BOX, MASSAGE HER BACK AND HIPS AND TALK SOFTLY AND GENTLY TO REASSURE HER.

10. SHE GENERALLY WILL CONTINUE TO PANT, NEST, AND SHIVER BETWEEN CONTRACTIONS.

11. INTERMITTENT CONTRACTIONS CONTINUE AND SHOULD BECOME REGULAR AT 3/4 MINUTE INTERVALS FOR ONE TO THREE HOURS, IF MORE THAN 2 HOURS NOTIFY THE VET.

12. APPEARANCE OF A WATER BAG AT THE VULVA. AS IT STARTS TO PROTRUDE THE VULVA WILL OPEN AND A BULGE ABOVE THE VULVA IS OBVIOUS. THIS BULGE MAY BE A PUPPY AND FEEL HARD (HEAD) OR FIRM (BREECH) OR IT MAY FEEL SOFT AND JUST BE WATER DON'T LET THE BITCH BREAK THIS BAG AS THIS WOULD MEAN A DRY BIRTH AND BE MORE DIFFICULT FOR THE BITCH.

13. THE BAG MAY CONTINUE TO COME OUT AND EVEN APPEAR TO BE PINCHED OFF. IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE CLEAR PINKISH GREY FLUID IN IT, IF IT IS DARK GREEN/BLACKISH IT SIGNALS STRESS IN THE ONCOMING PUPPY. CHECK YOUR TIMING IF THE BITCH IS NOT DISTRESSED DON'T WORRY TOO MUCH BUT CHECK WITH YOUR VET.

14. THE PUPPY WILL APPEAR THROUGH THE VULVA IN THE WATER BAG PERHAPS HEAD FIRST PERHAPS TAIL AND HIND FEET FIRST EITHER IS COMMON AND NORMAL AND USUALLY 4 TO 6 CONTRACTIONS WILL BE NEEDED TO DELIVER IT. DON'T HELP UNLESS YOU ARE SURE THE BITCH OR THE PUPPY NEEDS HELP.

15. IF THE PUPPY IS DELIVERED AND THE BITCH DOES NOT BREAK THE BAG ALMOST IMMEDIATELY YOU MUST DO IT QUICKLY OR THE PUP WILL DROWN IN THE WATER. PINCH THE BAG UNDER THE PUPPY'S CHIN AND TEAR IT OPEN WITH YOUR NAILS. TRY TO KEEP THE PUP'S HEAD DOWN SO ANY WATER IN THE NOSE AND THROAT CAN RUN OUT. PEEL THE ENTIRE BAG AND MEMBRANES GENTLY OFF THE PUPPY.

CHECK CAREFULLY FOR DEFORMITIES OF LIP AND PALATE IMMEDIATELY AND IF THERE ARE ANY SEVERE DEFORMITIES PUT THE PUPPY TO ONE SIDE WITHOUT ATTEMPTING RESUSCITATING IT.

16. DRY THE PUP GENTLY BUT VIGOROUSLY AND TRY TO ATTACH IT TO A TEAT. DON'T PANIC OR RUSH REGARDING THE CORD. TAKE THE CORD BETWEEN YOUR FINGERS AND DRAW THE PLACENTA OUT USING A STEADY CONSTANT PULLING PRESSURE.

17. ONCE THE PLACENTA IS FREE OF THE BITCH TAKE THE CORD BETWEEN THE THUMB AND FOREFINGER AND MILK IT TOWARDS THE PUP THIS GIVES THE PUP A LITTLE EXTRA BLOOD SUPPLY. AS YOU DO THIS YOU WILL NOTICE A "WEAK SPOT" IN THE CORD FAIRLY CLOSE TO THE PUP SAY ABOUT AN INCH FROM THE PUPPY'S BELLY. USE YOUR NAILS TO SHRED AND CRUSH AND CUT THE CORD UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY SEVERED. IT RARELY BLEEDS IF YOU DO IT THIS WAY.

18. THROW THE PLACENTA AWAY IF THE BITCH HASN'T EATEN IT AS THERE IS NO REAL PROOF THAT THERE IS ANY VALUE IN THE PLACENTA AND IN FACT IF SHE DOES EAT TOO MANY SHE WILL GET QUITE BAD DIARRHOEA.

19. MAKE NOTES OF THE WEIGHT, SEX, COLOUR, COAT, TIME AND PRESENTATION. CHECK THAT THE PUPS ARE FEEDING WELL AND ARE STAYING WARM AND CLOSE TO THEIR MUM.

20. LET THE BITCH REST IF SHE WANTS TO BETWEEN EACH PUPPY BUT KEEP STROKING HER AND THE PUPS SO THAT SHE DOESN'T RESENT YOU HANDLING THEM.

21. CHANGE THE BEDDING ONLY IF IT IS TOO WET AND COLD OR STAINED.

22. WHEN SHE IS READY FOR THE NEXT PUP'S ARRIVAL SHE WILL START AGAIN AT, NUMBER ...8...HAVE A SMALL BOX OR BASKET READY WITH THE HOT WATER BOTTLE TO SEPARATE THE PUPPY'S SO THEY ARE NOT INJURED WITH HER NESTING ETC. DROP A LIGHT CLOTH OVER THEM AND THEY WILL STOP CRYING AND DISTRACTING THEIR MUM WHILE SHE IS BUSY GIVING BIRTH TO THE REST OF THE LITTER.

23. AS SOON AS THE NEXT ONE IS BORN AND CARED FOR TO ...17. PUT IT ON THE TEAT THEN PUT THE FIRST ONES ONTO THE TEAT AGAIN SO THEY CAN ALL FEED TOGETHER.

24. WHEN THE LAST PUPPY IS BORN THE BITCH (NOW CALLED A DAM) WILL THOROUGHLY CLEAN HERSELF LEGS, TAIL, AND COAT. NOT JUST THE VULVA WHICH IS THE AREA SHE TENDS TO CONCENTRATE ON DURING THE WHELPING PROCESS, BEFORE AND AFTER EACH PUPPY IS BORN.

SUSPECT PROBLEMS REQUIRING VETERINARY ASSISTANCE IF SHE HAS STRONG CONTRACTIONS FOR 2 HOURS WITH NO RESULTING PUPPY.

IF THERE IS A STRONG FOUL ODOUR.

IF THERE IS A DARK GREEN BLACKISH DISCHARGE FROM THE VULVA.

HEAVY BRIGHT RED BLOOD LOSS.

SUDDEN CESSATION OF LABOUR BUT THE BITCH IS NOT RESTING OR CARING FOR HER PUPS AND YOU ARE SURE THERE ARE MORE PUPS TO COME.

TWITCHING JERKING OR COLLAPSE OF THE BITCH. NOW ALL THE PUPS HAVE ARRIVED AND ARE DOING WELL TAKE THEM ALL TO THE VET FOR A CHECK WITHIN 24 HOURS AND THE VET WILL GIVE THE DAM A POST WHELPING ("CLEAN OUT") NEEDLE TO MAKE SURE NO DEBRIS REMAINS BEHIND IN THE UTERUS eg. POOLED BLOOD, PLACENTA, DEAD PUP ETC.

NOTE: HAVE AT HAND "WITCHES BREW" THIS CONSISTS OF 1/2 CUP OF BOILED WATER, 1 TEASPOON OF INSTANT COFFEE, 1 CAPFUL OF BRANDY, 2 TEASPOONS OF POWDERED GLUCOSE OR 1 TSPN OF HONEY. THIS CAN BE USE CAREFULLY TO HELP RESUSCITATE A PUPPY. ONLY ONE DROP ON THE TONGUE. IT CAN BE GIVEN TO THE BITCH IN A STALLED WHELPING PROVIDING YOU ARE CERTAIN THE CERVIX IS FULLY DILATED, THE PUPPY IS ENGAGED AND THE PUPPY IS IN A POSITION THAT WILL ALLOW ITS PASSAGE THROUGH THE BIRTH CANAL.

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