Now, you have picked your rat(s) or they have picked you. Now what? Housing: There are many alternatives on the market to comfortably house your rats. Remember, the more rats you keep, the bigger the accommodations must be. When only housing I rat ideally the dimensions should be no smaller than 24" long by I2" deep by I2" tall. This allows for sleeping, eating, and playing areas.

Cages or aquariums can be used. Be sure the cage bars are not spaced too far apart to allow escape or entrapment. Cages with built in levels and ramps are ideal. If choosing an aquarium, be sure to have a secure screen lid that locks well. Rats are very strong and ingenious and can figure out how to escape. Both types of housing have pros and cons.

The aquarium cage keeps all the shavings and bedding contained so there is less mess, but it is hard to provide adequate climbing and playing areas. The wire cage allows ramps and platforms but invariably, the shavings end up on the floor.

Whichever form of housing is chosen, it should be kept clean and in a secure spot in the house. Somewhere where the family cat can't reach through the bars and terrorize your rattle,(although I think a well-placed nip might take care of this) and somewhere that the cage cannot be knocked over. Rats enjoy and thrive on your presence so try to allow for this when placing the cage.

Okay, now you have your cage picked out, what type of bedding?

The bedding should be absorbent and safe and should be changed regularly. The number of rats you chose to keep and type of housing you choose will dictate the frequency of the cleaning.

Please stay far, far away from cedar or cedar/pine combination bedding. Cedar contains aromatic oils known as phenols. When these agents become wet with urine, a toxic chemical is released. This could result in hair loss, sores, respiratory ailments and prolonged exposure could even result in death.

Pine shavings are a good alternative but make sure they are clean, dry and as dust free as possible. If the shavings are too dusty they will irritate the nasal passages and cause sneezing and respiratory distress.

Another excellent product is Aspen shavings. These are much more expensive than pine, but are virtually dust free.

Some people have tried corncob bedding or recycled newspaper products but I have found these products difficult for the rat to walk on and almost impossible to burrow in. Also, if the corncob or newspaper is not changed regularly, the product tends to get mouldy when wet and could release harmful spores.

One thing that your rat will enjoy is a separate sleeping area if your caging is large enough to accommodate one. Several inexpensive items may be used or purchased from a good pet store. Inside the aquarium cage or wire cage for that matter, an empty milk jug or 2 litre pop bottle with a large hole cut in the side works nicely. If you would like something fancier, there are several types of tubes and elbows sold for ferrets that qg also perfect for the rats. They come in an assortment of colours so you can customize your rattie's decor!

In a wire cage a small wire bread basket or again the ferret tubing suspended from the side or top of the cage is nice. These areas will be used for sleeping and playing and therefore serve a dual purpose. Some pet stores also carry large natural fibre nests for hamsters and a larger size for guinea pigs that can also be used. If you can rotate these items so your rattie does not become bored. Also replace the items whenever too much chewing has worn them down.

Be sure to provide fresh, clean drinking water for your pet at all times. A gravity tube bottle works the best for this as a dish placed inside the cage soon becomes soiled with shavings and such.

Now we have rat, cage, bedding, toys and a water source. Now we need food. There are several good small animal mixes on the market meant for hamsters and gerbils however I prefer one that is specifically geared toward the rat. I would have to say the best rat food would be some sort of rodent block, This is a complete food containing all essential vitamins and minerals all compressed into a small, hard block. This also allows your pets teeth to be worn down naturally as they gnaw at the blocks. Even though this is a complete food and all your rat really needs to survive, it is also a very boring food. I offer my ratties rat block, 7 days a week, 365 days a year but I also supplement it with the following items. a bit of dry, good quality dog kibble twice a week, black sunflower seed or cracked corn twice a week, and spray millet once a week. This is in addition to the blocks. They also get a variety of green foods occasionally. Spinach, green beans, broccoli and carrots are good when offered in moderation. Keep in n-find the small size of your pet and feed accordingly.