Brian goes off. He's always a top competitor in the biggest events. Weeks ago I asked Brian to talk about surfing and life in general. He quickly and graciously consented. Here, Brian tells all, at least all we could think of to ask about! Let's get to it.
With the winter Olympics going on now in Japan, I'm sure there are many who are hoping to see bodyboarding in the next summer Olympics. Do you believe bodyboarding should be included in Olympic competition?
Most definitely!!
Why?
I feel that bodyboarding is such a competitive sport and it is just incredible what we are doing on waves these days. It's like were gymnasts or something. Bodyboarding is so epic, it's also like art, you just draw out your picture on the wave. Bodyboarding is also a very international sport and people of all ages all over the world can enjoy it and you don't need much experience or balance to do it. Plus if it were in the Olympics it would bring bodyboarding to a level possibly as high or higher than surfing or snowboarding.
Given that bodyboarding is so much fun, do you think it will ever be taken as seriously, as let's say, stand-up surfing?
Yes I do, but its going to take time and better wave venue contests. Also more T.V. coverage will do the trick. But look how long surfing has been around. 60 years+. Bodyboarding has been around for only 25 years. Time will tell.
The media plays an important role in shaping how the public views a sport. How important do you think media support of bodyboarding is now and is media interest helpful to the sport these days?
Like I just said I think its going to take better surfing venues and more hard core sponging trips to exotic spots. We need a solid world tour. We need more magazines like Riptide to get the hard core image out there. Time will tell.
While growing up, whom did you look to for inspiration?
There was a few guys. My brother Jay in the early stages and his friend Fred.Chris Granone, Jeff Jones just to name a few. They were all local guys. Rippers. See, when I started riding there wasn't any videos to watch. We just had to learn kinda on our own. We were really isolated here in the South Bay.
Who are your biggest heroes?
Mike Stewart is a Legend, in my mind he always has been. Guilherme Tamega rules too. He is nuts. A lot of people don't like his style, but man he shreds so hard. The people that don't like his style are just jealous. Jesus Christ is my biggest hero though. I don't think any of my friends or bodyboarding heroes would die for me. Do you think they would?
What's the secret of life [or is it too early to tell?]
Like I was just saying, Jesus Christ is the way in my life!! But see He is not a secret. We are just blinded and ignorant to surrendering and committing our life to God's way. We think our way is better, we think we have it all under control, but like I said we are blinded. God's way is perfect. That's the non-secret to my life.
If you were not a bodyboarder, what would you be?
A storm chaser!!
Favorite food?
Sushi
Favorite music?
All kinds of stuff. Godly music. Spanish, flamenco guitar, been getting into classical, Phil Keggy, but I really like heavy music too. Old Metallica, Pantera.
Favorite movie?
Star Wars. All three of them. Epicness
Of the places you haven't been, where would you most like to visit? (It doesn't have to have waves!)
Australia is really nice, I love that place, the waves are good, people are cool, and there is so much open land, I just love it there. I really want to go to Tahiti soon.
When did you first start bodyboarding and when did you know you wanted to do this professionally?
I started spungen around 14 years ago at Torrance Beach, in California. It's a dumpy beach break that really is not too good. But this winter it has been good. There are so many sandbars from all the swell we have been having. It's the best sandbars I have seen quite possibly ever. I realized that I wanted to sponge professionally back in 91. I was doing really good in all the amateur contest and I had some sponsor support and most of all I had killer family support which I feel really helped so much more than I could explain. But see it was all God's plan, but at the time I just didn't know it yet.
Who's the toughest competition these days?
Everyone who is into it. Anyone can win on any given day.!! I am a living testimony of that. Everyone will have their day. Just gotta go for it!!
Choke groms have taken up bodyboarding, so naturally people like you, Mike Stewart and Guilherme Tamega have a big influence on them. If they would listen, and you could give some advice, what would you tell them?
I would tell them just to stay focused on your dreams because there are so many things in this messed up world that will try to snatch you dreams and goals from you. Be careful of peer pressure. I know it sounds corny but I have seen a few ripper-groms get sucked into drinking and smoking and blowing their careers just because they feel like they need to fit in to be accepted. WRONG! Just be strong and trust God with your choices. Read Proverbs 3:5-6
Just how important to your riding is the board?
Pretty important these days. I used to ride 43 inch boards, now I am down to 40 1/2. Nut's huh??
What kind of template and material do you ride in big surf as opposed to small stuff?
Same, poly-core with a stringer.
What are your three favorite surf spots in Hawaii?
Pipeline, but its so dang crowded, but that wave amazes me. I like off the wall too. Kauai, Maui, it's all good.
California?
Burnouts, Ave C, some spots on the hill. Pelican Point.
The rest of the world?
When I find out I will tell ya. Indonesia is epic.
Of all the places you have surfed, where is the absolute best break?
G-Land was insane. Bali, Costa Rica wedge. All over, I don't really have a favorite spot, I just love hollow waves that aren't too huge, so I can have fun. I have nothing to prove.
What's the biggest wave you have ridden so far? What's your favorite size wave?
I caught a second reefer at pipe a few winters ago, solid 12-footer from the outside and I got a pretty big pit on the inside. I also rode some 10-15 foot surf down at Todos Santos a few winters ago, All by my self. Pretty scary. I also rode a 50-foot wave at Jaws and snaked Laird Hamilton. In my latest dream. Four-to-six feet is my favorite size and hollow. Hawaiian size, cuz.
Who is your favorite woman bodyboarder? What woman sponger rips the most?
Stewart Rules. But I like Allistar and G.T. because they charge and get nuts. They inspire me. Karla Costa rips hard and all the Brazilian girls rule too. Neimara beat me in a little contest once at Salt Creek. Yea
Who's your favorite woman surfer?
Lisa Anderson. She cool
What gives a pro-bodyboarder an edge? Is it equipment? Physical training? Courage?
All of the above. Big, big, big, balls
Speaking of physical training, what do you do to keep in shape for the big days? Jogging, racquetball, whatever?
Trying to. I need to get amped more often.
People that surf, love it. What keeps you paddling out?
Just to get out there and fellowship with the Lord while I am surfing is the best. It really clears my head (Sometimes) and I just love getting tubes. I also really like surfing with my friends and pushing each other. I also think of songs to write when I am surfing. I think everyone needs to get tubed at least once in their life.
Final thoughts?
Just keep on doing what you do best, and remember don't always follow your heart like we all think we should because it's deceitful. And a true friend will always stab you in the front, not the back.
Email me if you want, I would like to chat with anyone - pressto@aloha.net
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