Surf HomeRip Curld World Cup '98 Shane Dorian on top of the world in the first '98 Triple Crown event - waves rise to the occasion with perfect 8 foot sets.
Shane Dorian is another of the hardcore tow-in brigade from Pe'ahi. He talks candidly to Greg Wunderlich, about surfing professionally, home-life, religion and his recent movie 'In God's Hands'.
What's going on today? What's an average day when Shane is in town?
If I'm at home on the Big Island, I'll probably wake up around 8 o' clock. If the waves are going to be good I wake up really early, but if it's just an average day, I'll wake up and make a smoothie, eat some food, then ride my bike to go and look at the waves. About a half mile from my house is my home break. If it looks fun, I'll go surfing. If not, I'll call up my friends and go work out. I'm sponsored by The Club, it's a gym in Kona. It's big and clean, and everyone who goes there is excited. It's a great atmosphere. After we work out, we'll go eat at Kona Mixed Plate, the best plate lunches in the world. I always get a beef teri plate with shrimp tempura and a tossed salad with teri sauce on my rice and a large lemonade.
You've got it down, huh?
It's the usual. I just call up and say, "This is Shane, I'd like to order some food," and they'll have it ready when I get there. They already know my order, 'cause I eat there almost every single day.
Have you been at home for much of this year?
No. I've been very busy this past year. I've been on the Tour, on photo trips, video trips, and doing promo things for my sponsors. I worked on a movie for four and a half months. I just recently did a TV commercial. Things are so hectic. My life is just getting more and more busy as the years go on. Even though it's been my busiest year, it's also been the funnest year of my life. I'm very happy at the moment.
How much time did you spend at home this year?
Two months.
If you were to live anywhere else besides Kona, where would you choose?
I don't like to think about not being able to live here. I was born and raised here and I really feel at home here. All my best friends and family are here.
In your travels, did you find anyplace that's almost as good as Hawai'i?
I love Reunion Island. It reminds me of home... same water temperature, the reef's all alive, the water's clear and there are volcanoes and waterfalls. It's a beautiful place with beautiful people, although the people speak French. Otherwise, I don't really feel partial to anyplace. I have roots in here and I don't feel as comfortable anywhere else. I love the people, the food, and I love the lifestyle.
You must be getting used to being away?
Well, when you are from the Big Island you have to leave to be able to do anything. I moved to O'ahu when I was 15 and lived with Jason Magallanes and his family. I sent my car over and went to school. I went all through high school on the North Shore.
Kahuku graduate?
Waialua the first two years, Kahuku the last two. So I've been gone since I was 15. Now I'm 25, so it's been 10 years since I've lived at home on a regular basis.
Do you have an apartment there? Yeah, I have an apartment.
Is it full of surfboards?
The outside closet is full of surfboards and my extra room is full of stuff, surfboards and crap.
Trophy collection?
No, definitely no trophies. There is absolutely no surf memorabilia in my whole house. You'd never think a surfer lives here, ever.
What's on the walls?
The walls are blank. I like all my art to lay against the walls on the floor. I don't like to hang anything up. I think it looks better just laying against the wall. I love art. I have prints, like a Van Gogh, but I don't have a super artsy house. I have a really cool apartment. It' right across the street from the beach and it's convenient. It's really simple. I love it. It's the perfect bachelor's pad.
So you are still single?
No. I've had a girlfriend for the past four and a half years. The same one.
When's the wedding?
Bad question.
Any pressure?
Nope. No pressure. The only pressure is the pressure you put on yourself, and I put none on myself.
Things are going well?
Things are going great. I have a wonderful girlfriend who's very supportive of everything I do and I'm supportive of everything she does. She's very busy as a senior at UCLA. She's ambitious and brilliant and we're totally in love, but it's hard because she lives in LA and I live in Hawai'i. Neither of us think it's fair to sacrifice everything for the other person because then we'll resent each other and become bitter.... blah, blah, blah. It's worked for four and a half years so I'm not looking at changing anything. I'm just going with the flow and having fun.
Is she going to move to Hawai'i, or are you going to move to Hollywood?
It's hard for me to look into the future. If someone told me when I was 15 that I would be doing what I'm doing now, I would have laughed at them. I would have said, "You're kidding me. You're high." Life is strange and it goes in weird ways, especially mine lately. It's been taking some strange turns, but you can't really fight it. It's the way it's supposed to be, so I'm just seeing how things turn out and having a lot of fun along the way.
Can you talk about "In God's Hands?"
I can talk all about the movie.
How did that come about?
I've been best friends with Matty (Liu) since I was a little kid. He's actually a little bit older than me. He turns 26 before me, ha, ha. But when we were kids we used to surf against each other. He was the kid to beat on O'ahu. He and Ross Williams were the big time guys. He still surfs every day, but his passion for acting led him to Hollywood. He's been there for the past six years, really putting in his hours. He knew a girl that went to see Zalman King (who did our movie). Zalman asked her if she knew any surfers. She set up a meeting, and Zalman loved Matty. He asked Matty if he knew anybody that could write a screenplay. Matty said, "Yes, one of my best friends, Matt George is a good surfer and a writer for Surfing Magazine." Zalman loved Matt, so they had Matt and Matty and they needed one more guy for the other character. They interviewed a whole bunch of people and I was one of the last guys he saw. I didn't even really go on an interview. It was just that Matty thought I'd be really good for this role. I was like, "Matty, I'm not an actor and this is a big movie." He said, "All you gotta do is be yourself and you gotta promise me to go meet Zalman." So one day when I was in California, I drove to Santa Monica and I met Zalman and his wife. We just talked about surfing and life. I didn't read for him or audition. We didn't even talk about the movie. When I bailed I was thinking "he must think I'm a dork" because we didn't even talk about acting. There was no way in hell they were going to pick me when all these actors were trying to get this role. But I guess he liked me and I was cast in the role.
In the movie you get the girl, right?
Yeah, that's true. Of course it's true.
Did your girlfriend get jealous?
I don't want to talk about that. Let's just say she was supportive that I did the movie.
Did it get tricky?
It was definitely tricky, because I did have some intimate scenes with a girl on screen. But my girlfriend is a mature girl. She knows that she's my girlfriend in real life.
What do think of the whole Hollywood deal?
To tell you the truth, I don't know a whole lot about it. I know it's a weird business and there are a lot of weird people, but there are a lot of great parts about the business and there are a lot of great people. The movie was probably the greatest experience of my life. I had so much fun and I haven't been challenged like that in a long time.
Was it hard for you to act?
Totally. It's totally unnatural for me. It's not like I grew up going, "Yeah, I'm an actor."
From what I hear, you did a really good job.
Only time will tell. It's one of those things were people might say I did a good job or a bad job, but the fact is I did it and I tried really hard. It was my first project. I never did any plays in high school. People should keep that in mind. I was cast in the role and three days later we were shooting. I'm proud of the way the movie turned out and I'm happy I did it. It was such a big challenge for me. At first I didn't think I could do it, but I forced myself over the edge.
As far as making a living, would you chose surfing over movie making?
Either or. I can take either one. You know I've been surfing professionally for seven years and it's a great job. I've been very fortunate. The only reason I'm where I am today is because of surfing. It's given me my whole life and I owe my life to surfing. I'm so lucky that I'm a surfer. I'll always remain a surfer no matter what happens. Surfing is the greatest job in the world.
Say you had a million bucks in your pocket right now and you didn't have to work, you didn't have to surf on the Tour, what would you do?
It's going to take a lot more than a million bucks for me not to have to work. A million bucks doesn't go that far these days. Let's say 20 million. Let's make this fun.
OK.
I'd invest it well and buy all my friends fun stuff, cars and houses... Money is not such a big deal to me.
Would you do the Tour?
I would do specialty events. The Eddie Aikau, the Billabong Challenge... or if someone offered me an interesting role in a movie I'd do it.
Aside from surfing, are you a golfer now?
No, well yeah, I guess so. I'm not absolutely fanatical about it like the rest of my friends. My friends' brains leaked out and all they care about is golfing. All they do is golf. It's really funny. I like to golf, but my ego gets in the way. I hate sucking at something and I suck at golf. It's one of those things that the harder you try the worse you suck. I'm so horrible, I'm absolutely the worst golfer, but I like to go just to hang out with everybody.
Some of your friends, like Kelly and Rob are in bands. Are you in a band?
No, no bands.
If you were, what would you play?
If I could be in the music business I'd definitely be a rapper. Those guys live the best lives. All they do is drive Benzs, cruise around and make fun videos.
Does religion play a part in your life?
I've never been to a church. My dad was a Catholic but non-practicing and he and my mom never forced me to be a Christian. It was up to me to believe what I wanted. I've thought a lot about it and I do have faith.... I mean this world is too perfect to evolve into this. I think there's something behind all this.
As far as religion goes, I'm not really into talking about it. I am just trying to be a good person. As far as reincarnation goes, I don't think I came from a dolphin and I don't think I'll come back as one. I think it would be cool, and I hope it it true, but I don't really believe in reincarnation It kind of ties into the title of the movie "In God's Hands."
Well God is a lot of things to a lot of people. Just like in the movie, you're out there with nobody and the waves are humongous, it's all up to you. You are basically in the hands of Mother Nature. For myself, I think that Mother Nature is God. You get what she deals you. So far I'm holding a good hand.
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