Here are some of the best waves Ireland has to offer - but remember there are endless spots. Please e-mail me here if I've left out your local break, or if you've found any more - and attach a photo!
1. Leinster, the home of the East Coast Surf Club.
White Rock, Killiney, Co. Dublin:
My local hideout. This spot is where all the fishermen are - at the northern end of the beach, the Sorrento Terrace end. Often gives a very surfable break in a swell with any kind of an easterly. Most times the waves aren't too neatly formed, they can be a bit confused and messy. On a big winter day it can be a real chore getting out past the relentless breakers. Its at a nice sandy spot, with a covered in 'hut' thing for keeping your stuff dry, but in a biggish swell there is a bit of a current which takes you up towards Dalkey Island. It doesn't work on a high tide - anything from mid to low tide is OK. Watch out for gougers from Ballybrack in the summer who have nothing better to do than hang around and rob yer stuff.
To get to it, drive along Vico Road up the hill out of Dalkey (the coast road) and when you're fairly high up above sea level, there's a battered old brown sign saying "leithreas" or toilet, and also a grassy patch. Take any of the steep paths down from here, crossing over the DART bridge. Try to get changed at your car, it's a lot easier.
The other spot in Killiney is a rocky outcrop just down south of the DART station. This works if White Rock is a bit too messy, and has neat waves on the mid-tide, watch out for the rocks though!
STOP PRESS: I was there last Saturday, the 28th March. It was great craic, with six out from the East Coast Surf Club. The surf started out at the low-tide with nice, neat 4-5 ft waves, but after about an hour and a half it had become sloppy and they tended to close out. The water was surprisingly warm for this time of year and I had no boots or gloves.
2nd Stop Press: It is now Friday the 24th April. I have been out here Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and today, and will head out tomorrow and Monday again. This has been a great week for Dublin surfing. We of course had the break all to ourselves every day. Sunday was huge, a bit too out of control for me, but Wednesday and Thursday were perfect - sun shining down on Killiney bay, glassy sea with set after set of beauts rolling in. Great week.
If you're in the area and interested in a casual surf, give me an E-mail. I'd love to hear from you.
Bray, Co. Wicklow:
Bray is the place to be on a northerly swell - it is perfectly positioned to pick up those waves as it is sticking out into the sea and slightly north facing I suppose. There are two spots - about half way down the seafront just out from the bandstand is a good one, the other is right down at Bray Head out from the slipway and I suppose you should check out the former first. Both spots serve up nicely shaped predictable waves in the right conditions. Best around mid-tide, when White Rock doesn't work, and gets a northerly swell (which misses White Rock thanks to DAlkey Island) but watch out for dangerous rips bringing you down past Bray head - be careful.
Bray was one of the only beaches in Ireland that applied for a blue flag and didn't get it because you are literally SWIMMING IN SHIT. It's some of the dirtiest water I know. Still, it doesn't stop the hardcore.
Magheramore, Co. Wicklow:
Just north of Brittas Bay, this little spot also operates in a good south swell with wind from east through to south, or a v. strong south westerly, and despite my fondness for Killiney it is the best spot this side of Tramore. 40 mins from the metropolis. Best about an hour before high tide, but works at any time. There's a great bit of rock going down the right for easy outside access on the big days.
There's talk of it being closed off but I'm not sure of the facts. Anyway, if you don't have wheels or aren't familiar with the place, every Sunday morning when it looks like working head to Bary dart station between 10-10:30 am and you can bum a ride with one of the regular posse. They're all sound and might even have spare boards if you want to try it out.
What's actually happening is that Wicklow c.c. are thinking of charging for carpark/entry facilities at the beach. This is bad enough, but worse if they make like Brittas and leave it locked up all winter. Write to the C.C. to voice your objection.
Dollymount Strand, Co. Dublin:
Living in Dublin nine months of the year you can get fairly desperate for a bit of action of the water variety. Anyway, sometimes you can get a fun little wave, believe it or not, off the ferries and ships as they fly past. Lagendary reports have whispered of freak waves as high as three foot, but two foot is more common. If you're interested, the best times are about 7:30 in the morning and 4:30 in the evening. As far as I can make out, the waves are better in the winter than the summer because the ships go faster as there are less yachts and things in Dublin Bay? It can get a bit dirty here - watch out. So now you have NO excuses.
2. Munster
"The Perfect Wave", Tramore, Co. Waterford:
What a name! This is about five miles west from Tramore, a fine, well-formed wave. Home of the legendary T-Bay Surf Club.
Bunmahon, Co. Waterford:
Beach break with rips caused by the small river mouth in the bay. One of the few waves in the sunny south east that is good for bodyboarders.
Long Strand, Castlefreake, Co. Cork:
Has some of the best surfing in Munster. Both ends of the beach have waves breaking off rocks and hold large waves. I was there for a week or so about the august bank holiday weekend '98, and I tell ya, I got some some of the most perfect, fuckin unreal waves you could want. With the sun setting over the sea, it was idyllic.Five foot swell, about force 2 northerlies, low tide, PERFECT. I was amped for days. The place itself is a bit of a dive - just mainly loads of caravan parks and knackered auld beach huts. There was a good number of surfers there.
Inchedoney, Co. Cork:
An attractive beach. Waves can be excellent depending on swell size and direction. You can play a round of golf at the hotel and lose all your balls!
Barley Cove, Co. Cork:
Good waves, easy to catch. *Takin' a house there, summer '99 - it's gonna go off!
Owenahincha, Co. Cork:
Some nice waves can be had here mainly from sand bars.
"Derrynane", Caherdaniel, Co. Kerry:
My local spot in the summer. Two spots - one straight beach break, great on the rising tide with a gentle offshore, this spot is at the lifeguard end, near the harbour. I was down last Christmas after the Christmas storms and the surf was epic 10ft power! One wipeout ripped off my booties, glove and snapped my leash. Can get a bit crowded with kids and bodyboards on sunny summer days as the place buzzes with tourists. The other spot is down the far end of the beach and it's one of the best, most consistent breaks in Kerry for sure. It's a bit more exposed and rugged and the waves tend to be a bit wild so watch out! It always breaks left, so you're sorted if you're goofy, but you can get shorter but equally quality rides to the right too. If it's real heavy and you get caught inside, it's not worth battling for 15mins to gain the placid waters - 'tis a far better thing to get out on the beach, walk back down therocks and climb in from there. There's a strong rip, and a deep channel that never breaks so it's not too bad, but be careful. There's a good local buzz in the summer, especially with the lifeguards (Alan O'Riordan from Tralee) - they're sound and you can even stash your boards with them at the caravan. Also, there's a bloke called Ozzy who rents out bodyboards, windsurfers, canoes and dingys from the harbour in the summer, and it's the perfect place for beginners to learn safely. Plenty of friendly public houses too.
One other thing - I was talking to a French dude in Tramore last Sunday (7th June). He's basically just travelling Europe in his bet down Fiat searching for waves, and he finds a place he likes, works and surfs for a month or so, then moves on - the life o' Larry! Anyway, I was looking at his Stormriders' Guide to Europe (buy it, it rules, period) and it said of Derrynane that "this little spot can in the right conditions produce perfect little waves". Wow, that's great. I've always known the quality of the waves there.
Inch Strand, Co. Kerry:
A beautiful spot which can provide some quality surf. Inch reef has the longest rideable wave in the country, 1 1/2 mins on occasion. The northern end is usually the best part of the beach. Watch out for the naturists down the far end! And check out the dirty "Strand Hotel" - what a feckin' dump!
Brandon Bay, Castlegregory, Co. Kerry:
This is just past Castlegregory on the Dingle peninsula and on a sunny day is what I consider to be surf heaven. The bay itself looks on to the Kerry Mountains and you are aware that the next piece of land to the west is 5,000 miles away. This means there is usually a swell coming into the bay. Brandon bay consists of a long strand and the waves break in a few different places. You get nice clean waves here when the conditions are right and they last a long time. Also has caravan park and Jamie Knox's Surfing School, ph: 66 39411, fax: 66 39011, who rent surfboards, bodyboards and windsurfers and provide instruction. They have a banana boat aswell. So there.
Lahinch, Co. Clare:
Co Clare is the business when it comes to surfing in Ireland and it has "some of the knarliest tubes you could ever want to ride" the Stormrider's Guide says.
Lahinch and Crab Island offer some of the most demanding waves around, with Sh**t Creek the most "animal". Rosemary Buckley from Lahinch Surf Shop recently told the Irish Times recently that the Clare area offers lots of breaks within easy reach. Doolin, Spanish Point and the infamous Crab Island are all within a short drive.
Lahinch has been hospitable to surfers since they first showed up in the mid 1970s, relations with the locals are excellent and the beaches are free of the agro that is the norm in surfing beaches in other countries. September and October are the best months, with Westerlies bringing consistent waves.
To locals, surfing has become "like a religion," says Mary Buckley, "their next surf is the most important thing in their lives. They go out and surf regardless of the temperature or anything else." In the depths of winter the surfers are to be found bobbing out on the waves, often perilously close to the cliffs between Lahinch and Moy beach. The doyen of Lahinch surfers Antoine O' Looney (he owns the pub on the promenade and is in the Guinness Book of Records for paddling the English channel) calls it "surfing the rocks" and it looks and is frightening. Definitely not for the faint-hearted.
And when the waves aren't up at Lahinch, there are plenty of other options. Surfers head to Crab island near Doolin or South to Inch reefs in Dingle - for the longest rideable waves in the country. Waves are excellent when available. Great bar and surf shop too. Lahinch is the ideal place to hang out for a weekend surfing.
Shit Creek, Lahinch, Co. Clare:
Least surfed and most demanding of Lahinch's reefs. So called because of murky river water dis-colouring the sea.
3. Connaught
Easky Right, Easkey, Co. Sligo:
A real humdinger of a wave. Not for the faint-hearted or beginner. Good wave though. The right is trickier as you get at it from flat rocks covered in seaweed. I suppose this is one of the most consistent good waves in Ireland but it took too much energy for me to get out.
Easkey Left, Easkey, Co. Sligo:
This is for experts, though it is easier than the right-hander.
Carrinskey / Strand Beach, Louisburgh, Co. Mayo:
There is a river flowing out to the right of the beach which builds up the waves in all conditions. Can go off safely between two and fifteen foot and is best on the rising tide.
Keel Bay, Achill Island, Co. Mayo:
Absolutely exposed - monster winter waves. The crew from the East Coast Surf Clubare heading down at the end of September - see you there!
We've come and gone over the weekend of the 27th September - about twenty (at least) enthuastic surfers from the club stormed Keel on Friday night to the roar of the mighty two foot waves from the murky darkness. Rob had been down for a day or two and apparently wednesday was six foot, but it certainly didn't show on Saturday morning. All the same we hit what meagre surf there was and got some class longboarding in, all day long, on pretty small but catchable waves - perfect for anyone learning.
Sunday was smaller again so I didn't bother getting in, but set off to explore the rest of the island. Keem strand is a steep off-camber 6 mile drive west of keel and is worth a look. Keel itself is a fairly bleak windswept place, not my cup of tea at all, I'd hate to live there except for the surf. The town seems to have no real centre and it's always cold and boggy reeds grow everywhere. Check the swell charts before you make the trip, there's not much else here.
Most of us stayed in the Wayfarer hostel (£6 per night - £7 for a private room). It was pretty good, lovely owners. A bit too cold, and no TV either. But there is no curfew or anything, there's a good fire and good kitchen facilities (no free breakfast). Beware of the dodgy "Minaun View" pub, it's a real IRA den with tricolours out every window and rebel memorabillia everywhere. No thanks.
4. Ulster
Rossnowlagh, Co. Donegal:
Nice waves, good bar near the beach. Good history of surfing in the area. The advantage with Rossnowlagh is that if the waves are small you can still surf them.
Bundoran, Co. Donegal:
Good consistent wave, not for the faint hearted. There are two places to catch the waves near Bundoran: Bundoran itself which is very good at low tide (scary reefs, straight out from the Water World place!) and Tullan strand ("The Peak", take a left heading north at the Kentucky Fried Chicken at the end of Bundoran). Tullan always seem to have some waves even if there are none elsewhere. What happens is the swell comes in and it bounces off the cliff and forms a peak when it re-meets with the rest of the waves. It can be too dangerous (for me anyway) if there is a big wave here as you are surfing near rocks. This was the venue for the Guinness European Surfing Championships in '97 - some competitors fell ill from raw sewage. Also threat of a marina being built - I hope it doesn't interfere with the surf. Probable venue if we get the World Champs for 2002, I think we will.
Pollan Beach, Buncrana, Co. Donegal:
I have never visited this beach without it having great waves and many surfers. Many popular with the northern ireland crowd.
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