Europe - Ireland, Portugal, Spain, France
Portugal is the most rugged out of the four countries and also has some of the bigger waves. The water temps can get a bit chilly at 52-65 degrees. But the uncrowded surf makes up for the water temp. Most of the coastline has good surf and only Lisbon tends to get crowded. This is the country to rent a car, buy a map and check out the numerous beach and point breaks.
Martin Corr from the East Coast Surf Club is just back from a surfari around south west Portugal - amzing place. It's so cheap, he says you can get a full meal (wine and everything) for around £5. You actually save money by going there, except for the flights. If you stay away from the main tourist meccas, it's really quiet, like Connemara or somewhere on the west coast. The whole coast is littered with fresh Atlantic breaks, with absolutely no crowds for the most part. However, he encountered heavy localism in the main local non-tourist towns, and he was basically told in no uncertain terms to "get the fuck out". Heavy. The water isn't much warmer than Ireland, so pack the fullsuit. And watch out for the vicious currents in and around the Straits of Gibralter, going out of the Med. If you're caught you will probably be carried out miles and I wouldn't bet on your survival chances. Despite all this, Portugal is an epic, cheap spot, packed with perfect beach, point and reef breaks just crying out to be surfed. GO THERE!
Spain and France have it all. They have great surf, great food, and a zest for living life. I am a little biased towards Spain because I lived there for a year, but I will attempt to paint an unbiased picture. You gotta go there. The northern region has a lot of places to surf, including Mundaka, one of the best lefts in the world. If you are going to the Basque region, stay in San Sebastian, which is a beautiful town on the beach. In the old part of town (parte vieja), there are more bars per square foot than I have ever seen. I wouldn't worry to much about the ETA terrorists in this region, they target the Guardia Civil, not traveling surfers. Don't forget about the Canary Islands, off of Africa. There are a lot of uncrowded beach and point breaks among the islands. In a nutshell, go to Spain, surf and enjoy the sangria and never-ending night life.
Like Spain, France is as great place to go for ambiance as surf. Like the Spaniards the French know how to live life. Even though the French have never been known as warm and friendly to foreigners, the surfers I met in my travels through France were very cool. Not only that, they have some unreal surf.
France can be divided into two surfing regions, the Southwest and the Northwest. Both have great surf, but the Southwest of France is the center for surfing in Europe. It is set up perfectly to receive the bulk of the swell from an undersea canyon that pours waves right into this coastline. From Seignosse to Hossegor you will get some great beach breaks.
The best time to surf all of these countries is in the fall. It is still warm and the waves are still pouring in without being out of control or flat. The tidal variations in Spain and France definitely impact the surf, so get a chart and figure it out. The conditions can change by the hour in France. One other thing. Spain and France are not cheap. Check out the exchange rate before you go. These are tough places to do budget traveling.
Australia
Australia, like the US is too big a country to do justice in a few paragraphs. However, I will try. Considering that Australia is basically one huge island, it is surrounded by surf. It seems like half of the country surfs there. If you plan on surfing down under, you're either going to have to spend a lot of time traveling or pick a specific area to surf.
Sydney is one of the focal points for surf and night-life on the East Coast. There are a ton of beach breaks and points to check out in and around the city. The surf coupled with a beautiful and rocking city, make Sydney a good place to start a surf trip. If you travel up the north along the Gold Coast, you'll find some of the most famous spots down under - Kirra, Burleigh, etc. Expect a Malibu or Rincon type crowd. No matter how early you get up, there are guys already out in the water - ripping. Head south from Sydney and you get good surf that is uncrowded and a little colder. A good place to go to avoid the crowds.
The West coast of Australia is rugged and an even better place to escape the crowds. But don't be fooled, you won't be surfing Margaret River solo. There are a lot of places to surf on the West Coast, so rent or buy a car, bring a few boards and get ready to surf some sick waves.
All in all, I found Australia to be a great place to surf. The people are great, and the surf is plentiful - what more do you need.
See trip to Western Oz.
Central America - El Salvador, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Panama
Central America is a great surf destination. You have good surf in all of these countries. Where you go depends on how much of an adventurer you are. For the strong of heart check out El Salvador and Nicaragua. La Libertad in El Salvador has some great surf, but can also get crowded on the weekends. You may want to check up and down the coast for less crowded spots such as the beach breaks of El Zunzal. The coast to the west of El Zunzal has the most consistent surf - but it can be difficult to find a place to stay.
Nicaragua has numerous spots to surf but it is a little sketchier due to past political situations. Then again, there are less travelers. So a few hassles may be worth surfing epic waves all to yourself. The one advantage Nicaragua does have is Lake Nicaragua, which causes year-round offshores in the southern portion of the country. Ironically enough, this is also where the best waves are!! If you go, get a reliable car (4x4). The roads will be a combination of dirt, potholes, rocks and sand. And like its neighbor El Salvador there can be a lack of accommodations, not surf.
Panama takes all the south and southwest swells. It is a little more tranquil than El Salvador and Nicaragua because of the fact that Noriega got the boot. Obviously, if you go to Panama you'll be going to Santa Catalina. It's a perfect wave in an isolated area - no hotels or restaurants, just a world class wave. Head north of Panama City and you'll find a plethora of beach breaks, points and rivermouths.
You can definitely find good, uncrowded surf in all of these countries you just have to be ready for some "challenging" traveling to get there.
Costa Rica was made for surf travel. It has the most stable government in Central America and pretty good roads (it's all relative in Central America). Because of these facts you have to either be a little lucky or off the beaten path to surf those perfect Costa Rican waves alone. Either way, there are a lot of waves in this country, the water is warm, and the people are friendly. Go there and enjoy all that Costa Rica has to offer.
If you do go to Costa Rica, you should also check out some of their national parks. Monte Verde and Manuel Antonio are well worth the time to see. Just a little warning - if you're heading for the Caribbean side and stop in Limon. Watch your stuff. Turn you back on it, and it's gone.
Central America has surf all year around. Where you surf will depend on the season. Just remember that the rainy season means a four wheel drive is a necessity in these countries. Get a good surf map, practice your Spanish, and head on out.
Hawaii
The Hawaiian islands are one of the greatest destinations for surf in the US. As you're flying into the islands you can see the countless swells marching towards the islands. You get off the plane and immediately feel the warm breeze and smell the pungent aroma of the tropical flowers. Ahh, it's always good to be back in Hawaii. The only question that remains in your mind is - how long will it take me to get from the airport and into the water?
Hawaii, Oahu, Maui and Kauai all have waves. Oahu is pumped up by the media by virtue of the fact that it is home to Sunset Beach, Pipeline and Waimea. Don't be fooled, all the islands have great surf and locals that kill it. If you go to one of the Hawaiian islands in winter, be prepared to be tested. If you aren't used to surfing big waves, I wouldn't make Sunset Beach the first place to surf. If you don't get pounded by the waves, you are likely to be pounded by an angry local as you flounder in the impact zone.
There are plenty of places to surf on each island, ranging from mellow beach breaks to barrels you can drive a truck through. So, check them out and don't get yourself in over your head. If your cool in the water and don't drop in people you'll avoid bad vibes in the water. Respect the locals and don't act like some loud, aggro kook that you may be able to get away with at home. This isn't your home break. So get yourself in good shape and be ready to learn what Hawaiian juice is all about.
Mexico - Baja California and Mainland
Every time you travel to Mexico, it's a new experience. Your trip can go from perfect waves on an isolated point, to sitting in the middle of nowhere with your broken down car. At times Mexico seems like a land without laws - however there is one golden rule. The policia is right, you are wrong, pay the fines and be on your way.
Anyway, Mexico has surf throughout the year. But because it faces south it tends to go off during the summer. There are a ton of places to surf between Tiajuana and the tip of Baja. You just have to figure out how to get there. A lot of surf in Baja remains uncrowded for a reason. It's not easy to get to. If you are going to charge through Baja looking for some of those uncrowded points and beachbreaks, go prepared. Estimate what you will need; spare car parts, gas tanks, lots of water and canned foods. Double your estimate and hit the road. I would advise against driving at night in Mexico. There are still highway bandits and a head-on collision with a big truck is not how you want to end your trip.
Mainland Mexico serves up the juice. The deep waters of the Pacific hit the shallow waters near shore, jack up and deliver. Just watch how many boards are broken on an average day at Puerto Escondido. If you like powerful beachbreaks, then Mainland Mexico is the place to go. There are some unreal surf towns along the mainland. So do some research, pick a spot and bring a few boards.
South Africa
South Africa is the ULTIMATE surf trip. RSA has a fantastic vibe with surf to match. Suggestion: Start your trip in Cape Town (maybe go up to Elands Bay) then make your way east along the coast through J-Bay, Port Elizabeth, East London and finally up to Durban. This trip offers a large variety of surf and one continuous party.
Cape Town is an experience not to be missed. It is situated on a peninsula and as a result the wind is always offshore somewhere. When not charging the surf you can explore Table Mountain, scuba dive or chill out at various spots in the city centre. At night Cape Town comes alive - pubs, nightclubs and live music venues are mostly found around Loop and Long Streets.
In Cape Town the wind will dictate where should surf. If its blowing NW head for False Bay, if its SE the Atlantic coast goes off. Wetsuits are highly recommended in the fairly cold Cape waters (the Atlantic coast being the coldest). All spots are within a short drive of each other; but a car or a big thumb is recommended. The choice of breaks is phenomenal: fun, sometimes heavy, shories on the Atlantic Coast, rolling swells in Muizenberg or hollow, chargable reefs at Crayfish Factory or Kalk Bay (and much more). Keep an eye on the weather reports for cold fronts to the south of the country as these bring most of the swell.
250 km north of Cape Town is one the best lefts in the world - the legendary Elands Bay, BUT always check with those in the know before going there- when there's no swell, there is NOTHING to do!!
Jeffrey's Bay and Port Elizabeth
J-Bay is South Africa's most famous break and is one of the best rights in the world. From Boneyards down to Albatross you can get a ride of over a kilometre. Wetsuits are recommended. J-Bay is the surfer's paradise and definitely not to be missed. The town is charged with an awesome surf vibe and has a relaxed and friendly atmosphere. Camping is a good option and there are also B+B's which offer excellent value.
About 50 km before J-Bay you will find Cape St Francis, the break imortalised by the 1960's surf movie, Endless Summer. Spend some time at this amazing break and rediscover the essence of soul.
PE, as Port Elizabeth is known, has the reputation of being South Africa's friendliest city. Situatued 150 km east of J-Bay this should be your next stop on the way to East London. There are many fun beach breaks in and around PE as well as some good points. There are many pubs, restuarants etc if the surf's flat. Getting around PE is very easy as most motorists will stop for hitchhikers.
East London
East London is your next stop. This city has it all. Excellent , consistent surf and a rocking nightlife. You will find that the water is warmer than Cape Town and Jeffrey's so a spring suit is recommended.
East London's surf is generated by the same cold fronts that bring swell to Cape Town and Jeffrey's Bay but becuase EL is nearer the tropics, tropical cyclones in the Indian ocean also bring waves - the result, some of the most consistent surf in South Africa. You will find hollow bowling walls at most of the breaks. Early morning, while the light offshore is blowing, is the best time to tackle this section of the coast.
One word of warning, Nahoon Reef has the highest rate of shark attacks of ANY beach in South Africa. But don't let that spoil the excellent waves , just be on the lookout.
Durban
Durban is South Africa's premier surf city: warm water, warm weather, plenty of breaks and shark nets on the main beaches. You can baggie surf all year round. Drive for 30 minutes north or south and you will find plenty of breaks- often less crowded. There are excellent night spots, surf shops and plenty of affordable places to eat and stay.
Durban is at its best during moderate south to east swells. Conditions are best in the morning when a land breeze is blowing. There are a variety of spots to suit all levels of experience. You can cut up the shorebreak or charge hollow barrels all day. Durban is a definate stop on your South African surf adventure.
SECOND OPINION ON SA
From almost everywhere but its neighboring countries, South Africa is a long way to go for surf. None the less, Endless Summer has made it one of the Meccas of the surfing world. A veritable promised land, where the waves are so long that you kick out because your legs are getting too tired.
There are a lot of great places to surf in South Africa, but bottom line - you gotta surf J-Bay. When you finally see the waves at Jeffrey's Bay, those 36 hours of travel will be a distant memory. If you get J-bay when it's on, you will surf some of the longest, fastest waves of your life. So if you have the time and can afford the ticket, you have to make it to South Africa at least once.
You should also spend some time in one of the many wildlife preserves in South Africa. You can see some incredible wildlife here. Even the water in South Africa can provide some unreal experiences. There are scores of dolphins that make their way through J-bay dropping in on you by the dozen. If it happens when you're there, you'll never forget it.
Two recommendations for J-bay and South Africa in general. Chances are, you will be surfing twice each day. So if you have two cold water wetsuits, bring them both. The water is cold, the offshores howl, and you get tired of putting on your wet, cold wetsuit every morning and afternoon.
South Africa also offers great surf in Cape Town and Durban, but these are really icing on the cake for anyone traveling to surf SA. Cape Town is beautiful and shouldn't be missed. Durban is a combination of Waikiki, Las Vegas and Africa. A scary combo, but it still has some great waves and is home to the legend, Shaun Thompson.
--Zac Johnson got back from a trip to SA in Nov. '97. All above is true, but the place is well dodgy crimewise - you just don't stop at the traffic lights in the wrong parts of town, it's that bad. So many of the blacks live in slums they will do anything and guns are available for hire by the hour, presumably for clay pigeon shooting and other such healthy pursuits. It's such a culture shock, but make the most of your trip - the crap rand currency means everything is dirt cheap and SA is home to some of the world's finest shapers, so be sure to pick up loadsa stuff if you have enough money left... Oh yeah, get a copy of zigzag, one of the original surf mags, it goes off.
South America
South America - there are so many places to surf here that the thought of describing them all is a little daunting. However, you can go from getting sick tubes in Peru, to the cold water point breaks in Chile, to the smoking beach breaks of Brazil. South America has it all. It can also be a difficult place to travel - especially if you don't speak Spanish or Portuguese. But as long as you are willing to use a little sign language and willing to put up with a little confusion, it can be well worth it. The way to tackle South America would be one country at a time. Each one has a unique season where different breaks will be going off during different seasons. Get some good surf maps, decide on the time you can travel, and figure out which country is going to be pumping.
Don't forget that these countries also have some incredible culture to check out. If you decide to go to Peru, a three day trek to Machu Picchu is almost a must. The Galapagos Islands, off of Ecuador were Darwin's classroom and allow you to see some incredible wildlife. If you get sick of the crowds at Punta del Este (Uruguay), check out Colonia, to see some of South America's best colonial remains. The Fjords of Chile and the Glaciers of Argentina can be awesome to view even if the quest there is a little difficult. In other words, get a good travel book and find out what may interest you....just in case the waves get flat.
On the dark side - South America has serious problems with theft - especially Peru, Columbia and parts of Brazil (e.g., Rio de Janeiro). Always be aware of your bags and personal belongings. Keep an eye out for pickpockets, bag-snatchers, and the thieves with razor blades that slit open your bag or pants pocket. You snooze, you loose.
USA - Mainland
The US, like anyplace with this much coastline, has a lot to offer. But to narrow the options, I am not going to describe Texas or the Great Lakes as viable surf destinations. Most people that are going to come here to surf, will either go to the West or East Coast. The East Coast has some great surf, but is not as consistent or sizable as the West Coast. However, when the right storms hit (like the summer of '95), the East coast can be the place to be. There are a ton of great places to surf from Florida to New England. I'd start naming spots, but since I haven't surfed there, you should get some surf maps and figure it out yourself. And remember, if you are heading to New England in winter, you better bring some serious rubber because it gets butt cold there.
The West Coast has everything you could look for in waves. Many of the breaks crank during the summer when the south swells start pumping. But the offshore winds during the fall and swells during the winter make September - February some of the prime months to surf the West Coast. The main pitstops for any surf trip to the West Coast would have to be San Diego, Newport/Huntington, LA (if you have to), Santa Barbara, the Ranch (if you can get in), Santa Cruz and San Francisco (summers suck there). For a more adventurous trip, surf your way up Northern California and through to Northern Oregon. You'll find some insane spots that produce sick waves with minimum crowds. If you are in California in the winter, and want to see a truly scary wave, check out Mavericks when it is going off. I can promise you that after watching it on a big day, you will questions how big your cojones really are.
Overall the US is an excellent destination for surf. However, don't expect to find unknown spots near the major surf cities. Also, research where you are going and make sure you have the right equipment. You may be able to surf without a wetsuit in Southern California all summer, but if you head up to San Francisco you better bring a full suit.
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