FLYRODS

and how to choose one




Introduction


Like all fishing styles flyrods are used for casting and fighting fish. However this is where the similarity ends. The casting is different to conventional tackle and the way the rod is used to subdue a fish differs also. I will not go into depth on the different characteristics as I am sure that you are already aware of the different aspects that flyfishing has over other forms of fishing or you wouldn't be here.
What I am going to talk about is what to look for in a rod before you purchase it. A variety of issues need to be addressed prior to obtaining your new tool such as the weight, length and fish you are likely to catch.

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Know Your Target


Before you decide on a rod you must first determine the area you will be fishing and the fish you are likely to encounter there. You will also need to take into account whether or not you will be fishing from a boat or from shore.
For example if you are fishing an area where the most likely fish don't exceed 4kg then you don't need to go out and purchase a 14 weight elephant gun rod. Or if you are fishing from a boat for sailfish a 6 weight 9 foot rod is highly impractical. So decide on the fish and area you are going to fish and move on to the next step.


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Weight Systems


Now that you know the likely fish that you will be targeting you can match a rod weight to it. As a general rule of thumb and by no means a set in stone guide, I have listed the most common uses for different rod weights. Choose which is most suitable to you and move on to the next step.

#4 -#5 - The lightest rods generally used for saltwater applications. Mostly used for smaller fish such as herring, whiting and small flathead. Or by ultralight sportfishing enthusiasts. I would not recommend going out and buying one for exclusive salt use, but if you have one amongst your trout gear you can have some fun.

#6 -#7 - The most common bottom end of the scale rods. These normally freshwater use rods can easily make the transition over to light saltwater use. For light esturine and river work such as bream flathead and snoek.

#8 -#9 - The middle weights and by far the most versatile rod you will own. A good #8 or #9 weight rod will cater to the majority of inshore species and tropical rivers, particularly one purpose built for saltwater fishing. Use for australian salmon, barramundi and smaller trevallies.

#10 -#11 - The light heavyweight. Probably the heaviest rod most anglers will ever need to own. In recent years the technology that has gone into rods by companies such as SAGE and G.LOOMIS has seen a shift back towards the lighter weight rods. Use these for fish like mackeral, most tunas and sailfish.

#12 and Beyond - The real heavy weights, not for the beginner or faint of heart. Few anglers will ever pick up a rod in the 12 or over catagory. These rods are designed for taking XOS fish and lets face it few of us get the opportunity to chase yellowfin tuna or marlin with a flyrod on a regular basis. Also in this catagory few rod manufacturers cater for them, so a rod in this class is going to be exspensive and difficult to obtain. If you are in this catagory then look at SAGE, G.LOOMIS and REDINGTON because when you are chasing fish over the 50kg bracket you will need the absolute best you can get. I also recommend that you start lifting weights as casting with these rods is no mean feat.

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Length and No. of Pieces


Now that you know the weight of the rod you require you need to decide on the length that best suits your requirements. The most common length of flyrod is 9 foot and this is generally the most suitable for most situations. Really the length only comes in to play when fishing out of a boat, when less casting is required, when the fish are very large or in tight creeks/rivers.
Shorter rods have casting disadvantages but give better leverage on larger fish. Longer rods are advantageous when wading on the flats when longer casts are needed. They do however give you less leverage on the fish.
In general terms the average (9 foot) is the most useful, I guess that is why it is the average.

As flyrods are so long they are generally segmented in two pieces. This is the most common, however with the need to travel to exotic locations, the speacialized travel rods which have up to six pieces are gaining popularity. These rods do have their disadvantages though. The more pieces, the more joins, which means more flatspots through the rod. It also means that you have more ferrules to keep clean, more maintenance. Basically if you dont need to pack your rod down into your back pocket stick to two or three piece rods.

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Flyrod Components


The last thing you need to concern yourself with are the rods components, that is the reel seat, guides etc. Like the reels, the components on your flyrod have to withstand the highly corrosive nature of salt water.
Firstly the reel seat should be of high quality. It should lock up and hold the reel tight. Test it with a reel on, preferably the one you plan to use, and make sure it holds tight.
Next is the grip, most rods use cork which is light, hard wearing and easily cleaned. Some low end budget rods use hypalon or duralon to keep the price down. However they are heavy, slippery and soften the feeling out of the rod. Make sure that the rod is comfortable in your hand, you may have to cast with it all day. Also in the heavier rods, a short fighting grip just above the main grip is advantageous when fighting big fish.
The next thing you need to look at are the guides. Most rods still use snakes as they are light and allow flylines to travel through them unhindered. Some rods are now coming out with ultralight singlefoot standard FUJI guides or copies. I personally don't like them but will leave that decision up to you. Most factory built rods have the guide spacing worked out pretty accurately so this is generally not a concern. Check it anyway just to be sure. The best check is to cast a line through the rod. Badly spaced guides will cause the flyline to trap and not shoot properly. A good idea is to change the tip guide to a hard wearing titanium nitride guide if it doesn't already have one as the tip guide will take most of the wear and tear.
Lastly a small butt extention is helpful even on lighter rods when fighting fish and in the larger rods it is far more critical. Also the addition of a hook keeper can make accidental human hookups less frequent.



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Flyrod Information


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