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Sitting on top of the world
by: Dean Karnazes
Wave sailing is the ultimate windsurfing
experience. It is an opportunity to magically fuse bird and fish into one.
The landscape is continually changing and to successfully adapt to the
situation one must make the appropriate accommodations to these changes.
If you have a basic understanding of wave riding and the wind/wave interaction
you can learn to master the landscape. If you don't, you'll probably leave
the water with both broken equipment and broken pride.
Let's start with
wind direction. Basically, the wind can blow on-shore, side-shore, or off-shore.
When standing on the beach facing the water, an on-shore breeze will be
blowing directly into your face. A side-shore breeze will be blowing directly
toward your profile. And an off-shore wind will be blowing against the
back of your head. The wind direction will dictate what type of wave riding
you can perform.
Now let's take
a look at the waves. When standing on the beach facing the water, a wave
that breaks and moves toward your right is called a left (that's because
from the perspective of looking toward the shore from in the water beyond
the wave, the wave is actually moving to the left). A right is just the
opposite. Waves can either peel, which means they break at one point and
continue to unfold for a distance, or close-out, which means the entire
wave breaks at once. And waves can either be rolling, meaning that it folds
over very near the crest and does not contain much power, or pounding,
meaning that is crashes near the bottom of the wave and contains quite
a bit of force.
Riding a wave
is referred to as going down-the-line. This means that you are traversing
the wave in the direction that the wave is peeling (as opposed to going
straight in toward the beach). The wind direction will dictate how you
can ride the wave. If the wind is on-shore you will be riding the wave
with your back toward the wave. This is referred to as back-side. If the
wind is off-shore you will be going down-the-line while facing the wave.
This is referred to as front-side.
When the wind
is on-shore there is generally a lot of chop on the wave. This is because
the prevailing wind generates its own chop. When the wind is off-shore
the waves are much smoother because there is not much distance for the
wind to generate chop. In general, side-off (meaning slightly side-shore
and slightly off-shore) conditions are the most ideal for wave riding.
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