The Three Sisters
Summary
Good on a hot day. The Three Sisters is a group of cliffs on the south side of Mt Pleasant, about 100m below the radio masts on the summit and (mainly) just below the Crater Rim Walkway. The whole area overlooks the port of Lyttelton and the climbs have a very picturesque setting among cliffs and native bush.There are some good short routes which are usually soloed on the Baby Brother. The cliffs are well sheltered from winds from a north west to north east quarter, except the Baby Brother, which is exposed to the west.
Access
Permission does not need to be sought for climbing and walking in this area. From the Summit Road, turn off about 400m west of Mt Pleasant Road onto an unsealed road called Broadleaf Lane, which leads to the radio masts at the top of Mt Pleasant. Keep the gates on Broadleaf Lane closed. From the radio masts, walk southeast down the summit ridge (towards Evans Pass). For the Sisters and Baby Brother, walk south down a small spur to a small prominent outcrop, which is the top of the Middle Sister. A grassy gully leads down the eastern side of the cliff.The Baby Brother is on the ridge west of the West Sister, and faces south and west.
Map Ref.M36 881353. Land owner: Mr C.H. Gilmore of Lyttelton.
History
The cliffs have been known as a climbing area since about 1974, but development did not start in earnest until late 1977. Most of the middle grade routes were climbed in this period by Henry Mares and Lindsay Main, culminating with the ascent of the spectacular Fear Of Flying. The area was then neglected for four years, until Brian Fish added some harder routes. Much has been done since then, particularly on the West Sister.
Trackside
Summary
These routes are on the wall(s) above the track and the small outcrops above the main (middle sister) crags below the track.
| Katipo | 22 | 4m | Chris Burtenshaw '96 |  |
On the boulder above Twisted Sister, on the orange/red wall facing track. Toprope belay (bad landing).
| Vomit Comet | 20 | 35m | Joe Arts '95 | |
Start at the only decent bit of rock by the corner in the track, heading leftwards past the bolts. Once on the red wall, go up on chicken heads and pumped arms to a huge ledge. Then take a quiet amble up the slab (1 bolt). Thread the anchor further back.
| Masses of Turkeys | 13 | 30m | Joe Arts '95 30m | |
Starts as for VC, but moves R from the first bolt, then follows the pro.
East Sister
Summary
This is the largely undeveloped (late '96) cliff just east of the Middle Sister. Access is via the gully at the east end of the Middle Sister.
| Sprog | 12 | |
| Black Mass | 13 | Henry Mares '77 | |
An obvious line to the right of the cliff, finishing up a ramp to the right.
Ugly Sister
| New Age Power | 24 | Marcus Thomas '99 | |
7 bolts. It goes through the roofs where they are biggest. Start up TYATR for three bolts, then straight up through the roofs. One hold is glued.
| Into The Groove | 21 | Lindsay Main '99 | |
left of the other routes. Natural pro, finishes at chains at two-thirds height.
Middle Sister
Summary
The crag with the most routes, the middle sister is directly below the antenna farm. The track passes directly across the top, to get to the base either follow the steep slippery track on the east side, or abseil in down judge and jury.
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routes are described left (west) to right (east)
| Short Order | 16 | 8m | Lindsay Main '81 | |
A right facing corner on the left of the cliff. Good climbing, crux at top.
| Desert Solitaire | 22 | 8m | Brian Fish '81 | |
The smooth arete just R of Short Order. Pro from Short Order and a bolt. Friction, tricky.
| Caley | 23 | 8m | Ton Snelder '90 | |
The open corner with one bolt
| Penal Rates | 22 | 12m | Lindsay Main '90 | |
The next arete. Start in the corner of A Bridge Too Far and delicately balance L across to the arete, then up. Two bolts, natural pro at the top. Bolt/chain belay.
| A Bridge Too Far | 17 | 12m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The second corner to the R of SO. Jam and bridge past a rib.
| Volcanic Cafe | 20 | 18m | Joe Arts '90 | |
A crack with a roof at 2/3 height. Nip up to the roof and grapple with the rounded holds above.
| ** The Monkey Wrench Gang | 22 | 18m | Joe Arts '90 | |
A powerful route up the wall L of Judge and Jury. Starts in a small corner (natural pro), then up the headwall going L then R. Three bolts.
| * Judge & Jury | 17 | 15m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Start in a L-facing black corner above a tree, then swing through the roof and jam the crack.
| Jesse Owens | 19 | 18m | Joe Arts '90 | |
Starts in an undercut corner/crack with grey rock. Power up past the bolt (crux), then move L to the cracked arete.
| Suicide Machine | 23 | 22m | Joe Arts '90 | |
Up the wall L of Fear of Flying past two bolts and somewhat to the L of a third bolt, then up the corner above (CDs).
| Nasty & Unconstructive | 22 | 22m | Joe Arts '91 | |
Just right of SM, up the seam through the overhang. Groundfall potential before first bolt. Three bolts. Uses top bolt of SM.
| Flight Path | 20 | 22m | Tony Burnell '99 | |
the wall right of FoF, natural pro.
| ** Fear of Flying | 17 | 22m | Henry Mares '77 | |
An incipient crack leads to an impressive roof curving to the R. Climb the wall with no pro (16) and traverse R under the roof. The block, which appeared to be secure, has been removed.
| Evasive Action | 17 | 18m | Lindsay Main '84 | |
Skirts the roofs. Up wall past a bolt to first roof and traverse R to the arete. Up past second bolt and into corner, up through notch to finish. Large CD at exit. Rebolted in '96.
| Evasive Action : The Sequel | 18 | 7m | Joe Arts '94 | |
Second pitch to Evasive Action. Follow bolts up the arête to a chain anchor at the top.
| Delayed Effect | 17 | 25m | Lindsay Main '81 | |
Follows the centre of three vague cracks, starting to the right and moving left (crux) to reach the crack. Poor pro at first. Finish up the overhanging corner on good holds.
| Afterglow | 18 | 22m | Lindsay Main '84 | |
R of Delayed Effect. Bridge up groove (poor pro using D.E. crack further up) and up wall to arete (crux). Up over blocks to top.
| ** Working Overtime | 20 | 22m | Lindsay Main '90 | |
The arete R of A.. A technical testpiece. One bolt and small wires. Take CDs for the exit past bushes and up a corner.
| Taking Care of Business | 20 | 22m | Lindsay Main '90 | |
Incipient crack between Working Overtime and Ball and Chain. Good pro from small wires. CDs at top. Exit as for W.O.
| Ball & Chain | 15 | 20m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
A flaring narrow chimney with jams at the back; crux at the small tree. Not recommended.
| Pain in the Arts | 18 | 20m | Marcus Thomas '95 | |
Arête left of Sharks' Nest. Start from loose block to bolt, and follow nice moves up right edge of arête past bolt 2 to an easy section. To do part two, womble left and take off up steep overhanging red face past horizontal breaks (CDs) and maybe a bolt. The finish is strenuous and committing.
| Shark's Nest | 16 | 20m | Henry Mares '77 | |
A good climb. Climb a L-facing corner with small holds and poor pro, moving L after 8m to easy ground. Then climb the crack through a bulge.
| Prometheus Busted | 16 | 18m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Climb a short wall to a bulging jam crack (crux), then right to another crack and up to top.
| Bolt Revolt | 23 | 18m | Tony Burnell '99 | |
the bold arete to the right of PB
| Grand Central Station | 10 | 10m | Lindsay Main | |
Omitted from Canterbury Rock as being too easy or something. The obvious corner left of Clutching at Straws.
| Clutching at Straws | 18 | 10m | Lindsay Main '84 | |
On R side of cliff. Start up a R facing corner over a loose pillar. L onto a ledge on the arete, Then up slightly R over the bulge (crux). Adequate pro.
NOTES:
Evasive Action has had the bolts replaced.
Fear of Flying has lost its block at the top.
There's a belay chain at the top of Penal Rates.
The West (Twisted) Sister
By Lindsay Main
Copyright Notice: This route guide is copyright and may not be re-produced without the express permission of Lindsay Main.
Access
The crag is part of the Mt Pleasant Reserve. Approach from Lyttelton Rock via the D.o.C. track, over the saddle and down past a big cliff on the left (with two routes); then drop down grassy slopes just before a small patch of bush. Veer east a little and climb down steeply onto a tree to the east end of the crag. Alternately, from the end of Broadleaf Lane walk east a short distance, and then descend a grassy slope beside an upper tier cliff to the track. Or, from the Middle Sister, traverse around through the bush (watch out for nettle).
Character
It's a steep south-facing trachyte cliff, similar to the Middle Sister, though with less afternoon sun. The rock has amazing friction, though there are a few crumbly bits, especially in areas of light traffic. There are about 20 climbs ranging in grade from 17 to 26. Chains are being installed at the top of most routes, but at the time of writing some require anchoring to bushes and crashing through the scrub to get off the top.
History
Lindsay Main discovered it in 1974, but decided there were less steep things to do on the Middle Sister. Joe Arts did the first two routes, Future Cops and Wages of Fear, both of which are already classics, early in 1994; then later that year Marcus Thomas took an interest. They happened to meet there one day and thereafter collaborated on the remaining of the easier routes during the 94/95 summer. The following summer Roland Foster, John McCallum, and others started working on the harder routes.Routes are described from left to right.
| Ongaphile | 26 | Roland Foster '96 | |
Just right of a gully. Follow the bolts to an abseil chain.
Immediately right there's a Roland Foster project which is about 26.
| * Trappic Trip | 22 | Clinton Bevan '96 | |
Obvious steep line of bolts above tree to abseil chain. The steepest route of its grade on the Port Hills. Then again, it could be 23. Look out for the tree.There's a project which is about 26 on the left side of the cave with two ring bolts.
| *** Onga Onga Via Interflora | 24 | Phil Higgins '96 | |
The line of bolts with a steep headwall on the left wall of the WOF corner. Start at WOF and move left. Abseil chain.
| Bullworker | 25 | Tony Burnell '99 | |
follow OOVI to the first bolt, then head off left under the roof and up.
| *** Wages of Fear | 22 | Joe Arts '94 | |
Starts off a boulder and goes up a corner on the east side of the cliff through some steep terrain, heading right at the top to a chain. Three bolts, CDs.
Then there's another Roland Foster project at about 26.
| * Onga Ongarangoutang | 24 | John McCallum '96 | |
A line of bolts leading leftward from the start of TLS through the overlaps to a belay chain. Long arms are helpful.
| The Last Seduction | 23 | 13m | Joe Arts '95 13m | |
The obvious crack 10 m right of WOF. Somewhat deceptive in appearance.
| ** The Stalker | 18 | 13m | Joe Arts '95 13m | |
Start on the right and over a bulge past a bolt (crux) and CD; then left across the wall at the second bolt to finish up arete past another bolt. Bolt anchors. If you start on the left it's 20/21.
| Spanish Disco Owner | 20 | 10m | Marcus Thomas '95 10m | |
Two metres right. Boulder up right arête/chimney (no pro) to the bolt, where the holds take you up and slightly right. Then you can amble up to the top (no pro), or forget the second, traverse left and climb down the chimney, unclipping the bolt as you go. Either way it's not a sport route.
| *** Future Cops | 21 | 15m | Joe Arts '94 10m | |
Three bolts on a lovely slab. Start to the right and traverse left to the first bolt. Crux at the top where you move rightward past the bolt and up. There's a wire cable anchor around a tree.
| Constant Craving | 19 | 22m | Marcus Thomas '95 22m | |
Start about 4-5 metres right of Future Cops up jugs with pro from a wire and small CD (crux); then step right and up the double crack. Anchor to bushes and crash through the bracken to descend.
| Peer Pressure | 25 | 22m | Tony Burnell '99 | |
a bolted line up the blind cracks and groove on the red wall left of Constant Craving.
| Sloper & Sloper Inc. | 22 | 20m | Marcus Thomas '95 12m | |
Start about two metres right up a vague arete below the ledge, (committing and unprotected), then up fingery wall (crux) past the first bolt and on to the slopers waiting at the top. Easier for the tall. Take care between the bolts, as the ledge is not far below. Currently the anchors are a problem (as if you didn't have enough already).
| Surf Lost | 17 | 18m | Marcus Thomas '94 18m | |
Onto the ramp just right of SSI and climb the obvious crack above, with a committing move on its right arete. Natural pro. At the top move right to the chains at the top of EOD.
| The Energy of Dogs | 22 | 18m | Marcus Thomas '94 18m | |
Start as for SL but from the easy ramp climb the crack further right (CDs), then up to the right of the bolts and mantle onto slopers. Abseil chain.
| * Grunty Falcon | 20 | 18m | Marcus Thomas '94 18m | |
From the cave at base of a chimney muscle past the bolt and into an inviting crack. From the ledge climb either the left crack (okay) or the right arete (cool) with good moves. Difficult if any pro on the arête. There's a staunch move leftwards up a short wall at the top to reach the Energy of Dogs abseil chain.
| Meluzina Man | 19 | 18m | Marcus Thomas '94 18m | |
The corner to the right. Boulder start up bulge to ledge (perhaps easier on the right). Good pro in the crack. Again to the EOD chain.
| Killing Capitalism with Kindness | 20 | 15m | Marcus Thomas '94 15m | |
A great climb, but disconcerting run-out between the bolts. As the track goes into the trees a solid grey wall presents itself. From the corner climb off tree onto sustained wall. Clip bolt and traverse right to larger holds; move up carefully to clip second bolt. Straight up and at the break move right to the crack in upper wall (#1, #3 CDs), with a thought-provoking move. Up to single bolt anchor (back it up with the tree).
| Sister Act | 24 | 15m | Tony Burnell '99 | |
left of KCWK, 4 bolts.
| Debris Slide | 18 | 15m | Marcus Thomas '95 15m | |
Start up CFR (using the bolt) and traverse left to a good ledge, then left again to finish up top crack as for KCWK (crux).
| Cock in a Frock on a Rock | 22 | 15m | Joe Arts '95 15m | |
The name had to be used! Starts in a pod and goes straight up to a bucket past bolts; move right to top out. Strenuous.
| ** Making Losers Happy | 17 | 12m | Marcus Thomas '95 12m | |
From the base of the tree 6m right, up the groove past two bolts (tricky), then left past the cave (it's too small to hide in) and bolt to exit at the very top of the arete. A little crumbly but a great finish. Anchors are well back, using bushes, but hopefully a chain will be installed soon.
| Pigs in Zen | ?? | 6m | Jon terry | |
Jon will get around to it one day. The wall 2m right. Three bolts.
Acknowledgements
Thanks to Marcus Thomas, Joe Arts, and John McCallum for supplying information, and to Marcus, Joe, and Stu Allan for climbing many of the routes with me.
Baby Brother
| Going For Broke | 14 | 10m | Henry Mares '77 | |
A steep bulging crack. Sustained.
| Travesties | 8 | |
| Hot Potatoe | 13 | |
| Pedantry | 10 | |
| Black Stump | 12 | |
| Dancing Lesson | 12 | 15m | Henry Mares '77 | |
Start below the left of two sloping cracks and climb up to the left crack.
| Expletive Deleted | 13 | 5m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The left of two jam cracks, moving left at the top.
| Schism | 13 | 5m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The right crack, good jams.