The Black Wall
By Simon Middlemass
The Black Wall is an reasonable (compared to some recent developments on the Port Hills) little crag of relatively good rock and moderate climbs. So far there are about 32 routes up to 15 m high and Grade 25.While the rock is generally better than nearby Farm Park often the top few metres of the cliff are of unstable blocks topped by steep grass consequently climbs may finish a bit short.The Crag is sheltered from the Easterlies more than Farm Park and quite cool in summer. Most routes have double bolt belays with chain
Access
From the Farm Park car park above Taylors Mistake cross the fence as for
Farm Park [towards Lyttelton] but instead of dropping down the other side
follow the fence line up the hill .Just below the top of the hill sidle
left across an old slip until you find another fence. Follow this fence
straight down the hill until the fence drops off right towards a small
bay. Head down here or alternatively crossing the fence at the flax bushes
and will put you at the top of the crag .
History
While it must have been known about in the early days it was left alone
until Bill McLeod and Simon Middlemass moved around from Farm Park on an
exploratory wander. They climbed Liaisons Dangereux (15) and Principal (20)
that visit. Mere days later the Athol Whimp and Gavin Tweedie team
visited disillusioned with Farm Park and climbed the same natural lines
thinking they were first ascents - Athol's Die Yuppie Die being only a
slightly different line to Principal. They returned with Pete Sykes to bolt
several other routes on the main wall before Pete left for Dunedin. It lay
unvisited for several years while most of the original ascentionists were
elsewhere.
Simon harboured this as a secret crag while living in Wanaka and revisited
on returning to Christchurch checking out lines and drilling the holes for
If Jenny Craig could see me now. Hearing that Lindsay was writing a
Port Hills Guide and checking out all the crags plus a desire to keep the
Chain Link gangs out Simon headed back in Jan 1998 with Pat Deavoll. Finding
lunch scraps and chalked holds one day and the discovery of Craig and Tony
a few days later - (also surprised to see others there) led to a frenzy of
climbing. After that more and more people turned up and it was unlikely to
remain under wraps much longer. Most of the old routes were rebolted at this
time.
Climbs are described from R to left as you find them looking at the cliff.
OUTLYING BUTTRESS
The first small buttress next to the fence. 3 natural pro routes.
| Avoiding the Crowds | 17 | Tony Billing 12/97 |  |
Start on slab with thin moves to obvious crack. Straight up with belay (cams) well back.
On the deceptively unsteep face to the left we have
| Principal | 20 | Bill McLeod '91 | |
Original line starting on the R at the overhang diagonals L to gain a definite crack line on left of the face then straight up. Placed pro (minimal) .Lead and cleaned on-sight.
| Die Yuppie Die | 20 | Athol Whimp '91 | |
A direct line up the left of the steep face that probably finishes up Principal with lots of small cracks minimal pro (wires).
On the next Buttress towards the main cliff.
| Miro | 18 | Pete Sykes '91 | |
A slabby face hidden behind the bush and R of obvious crack. .1B ,wire. A bit bold.
| Pressure Test | 24 | |
Starting on an undercut slab cross a small roof trend L then back R after 4th bolt to finish up lichenous white wall. 4 B w/o hangers.
| Joker Hysterical Face | 23 | |
Almost on the arete move R thru roof and up the arete 5 Bolts ? w/o hangers
MAIN CLIFF
The R side of the cliff is slightly lower and of a solid dark brown rock.
| A: A Slice of Life 20 | B:Tarn 22 |
| C: Hugs and Drugs 21 | D:Steel Rain 23 |
| E:Spice up your life 23 | F:Lets off road 24 |
| G:The Full Monty 16 | H:If Jenny Craig could see me now 20 |
| I: Half man,Half Biscuit 18 |
| Twisting by the pool | 16 | Simon Middlemass (solo) 3/98 | |
A short (4m) bulgy boulder problem up a seam/corner at the bottom of the access gully. Single bolt for top roping.
| Blinky the 3 eyed fish | 15 | Chris Owen 1/97 | |
A top roped line on the bulges just R of The Uprooter.Using the same belay.
| The Uprooter | 15 | John McCallum 1/97 | |
Starts near the foot of the access gully (large flax bush) and 2m R of Half man Half biscuit on good ledges following the obvious line . 3 white lichen spots up high identify the line. CD's 1-4 useful. Lead and cleaned on sight.
| Half Man Half Biscuit | 18 | Gavin Tweedie 91 | |
Where the first bit of level ground is .Takes the broken corner and up R of a small buttress. 2 Eye Bolts.
| * If Jenny Craig could see me now | 20 | Simon Middlemass 1/97 | |
Start as for Half man...but at the first good holds move left across wall past bolt.Up over bulge to thin final wall.Finish left after last bolt. 5B.
| * The Power of Piss | 21 | John McCallum 2/98 | |
4m R of tree. A few bouldery moves to clip the 1st bolt then easy climbing on big holds to steepening ground and up buttress L of 'If Jenny Craig...' to the same belay.
| Smokescreen | 21 | Craig Smith 2/98 | |
The obvious crack behind the Pittosporum tree.From 2m R of the tree in a small alcove there is an obvious groove / seam that heads directly up the wall. Bouldery start protected by 1 bolt leads to easier climbing through middle ground and then committing moves through crack and overhang at top.
| The Full Monty | 16 | Simon Middlemass 1/98 | |
A large tree dominates the middle of the cliff.This route starts off a big boulder L of the tree.Climb the left end of wall onto the lower ledges (1st bolt can be pre clipped from tree- starting from the tree is an easier option ) then up to R of overhanging buttress.At small roof pull over on good holds (0.5 Tricam, 2 or 3 Rock on R above) follow the corner up and left past one more bolt .Finish on ledge. 3B, Friends 1-1.5 useful.
| Galvanised Action | 22 | |
Guilty or not? Starts 2m L of tree at undercut bulge with good slot up into corner (good pro) move L to lets off road at roof then move R at 2nd roof directly up face to move L again to Lets Off Roads last bolt and anchors.
| Lets off Road! | 24 | Pat Deavoll 1/98 | |
Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree , diagonals R through roofs to finish up the Buttress L of The Full Monty.
| **Spice up your life | 23 | Pat Deavoll 1/98 | |
Starts in the middle of the undercut wall left of the tree.The left hand line almost straight up the wall and lactic your way through the final bulges. 6 B
| Rodeo Corner | 25 | Pat Deavoll 2/98 | |
On the left of the undercut wall a V-groove starts .Hard moves to a big block and continues up the left facing corner next to Steel rain.
| Steel Rain | 23 | Athol Whimp 91 | |
An ode to the Gulf War .Largest section of flat wall left of L facing corner.Start on broken blocks / pedestal on left that allows the 1st bolt to be clipped.Diagonals R then move back left after the 3rd bolt to place wires under block to protect the final moves.
| * Hugs and Drugs | 21 | John McCallum 1/98 | |
Just left of Steel rain is a peapod groove head straight up wall from this 4B. Finishes at the Steel Rain belay.
| Bolting with the Dolphins | 21 | John McCallum 1/98 | |
Clip first bolt on Hugs and Drugs to stop a grounder , tackle bulges 1m to left. Uses the last bolt on Hugs and Drugs which can be clipped leaning across.
| * Tarn | 22 | Pete Sykes 91 | |
Awkward start from L to get established in the R facing corner and below small roof.Move up over roof to thin crack and up pillar .3 Bolts.
| A slice of life | 20 | Simon Middlemass 2/98 | |
Left of Tarn is a concave lower wall that leads onto a wall split by broken cracks.Climb delicately from L by Petes route. Tiny wires at the start will protect the first moves to the bolt.Swing up using broken cracks. 3 Bolts ,small wires and a #1 friend (under small roof).
| Liaisons Dangereux | 15 | Simon Middlemass 91 | |
Takes the corner / crack with the large flake in it on L of the main cliff. Cleaned and lead on sight. Placed pro.
| Pine tree leads | 16 | Craig Smith 12/97 | |
About 10m left of Liaisons Dangereux . An obvious gully with vegetation and a small shrub part way up on the left. Climb through to top of gully and step right to sling the pine tree. Not much pro and poor belay at top.
SOUTH/WEST SIDE
Walk round past the Pine trees and broken ground to a 30m long wall with some obvious natural lines. Continue around past pine trees to the South-West facing wall
| Right brain | 17 | Tony Billing 2/98 | |
Start left of smallish pine tree and head up staying right to avoid choss till you gain offwidth crack.
| Exceeding the quota | 19 | Craig Smith 2/98 | |
Start at solid slab with overhanging curved corner on left. Up slab and follow faint corner in face, finishing on large holds up the headwall to the right of Glimmer.TR not led yet.To be bolted.
| * Glimmer | 19 | Craig Smith 2/98 | |
Move up a bouldery start at the protruding foot to step out onto hanging slabby face. Exit up chimney at top to good belay using sling on tree and large hex or #3 Friend. 4 bolts plus medium sized cam behind flake at top.
| Rush hour | 18 | Tony Billing 1/98 | |
Up right side of barrel shaped rock and place friend in crucial pocket to protect exposed step left to easier ground. Gain the large right facing corner which steepens up at the at top. A bold lead on natural pro.A direct start has been added from the left near Naval.
| Naval | 20 | Tony Billing 2/98 | |
Start at obvious pocket, up left or straight. Follow bolts on RH side from bolt #3. Bolt belay at top. 5B.
| Miss Kitty | 17 | Tony Billing | |
Start 3m left of Naval. Lay back start up to ledge with knob. Climb right side of sharp arete till 1/2 height and step around and up left-hand side. Natural belay at top.
| * Crispy corner | 16 | Craig Smith 1/98 | |
Obvious corner around from Miss Kitty.. Bouldery start leads to excellent climbing up corner. Good protection. Belay at top using sling on tree and 1.5 friend.