Brasenose

This crag is about 4 km south-west of Stony Bay Peak (Map Ref: N37 082078, Landowner: Packard & Thompson). Access is from Lighthouse Road above Akaroa. There 's lots of blank rock with a few strong, long lines. It's a neat place - nice outlook, sunny, and a pleasant short walk. The first visits were probably in the 60s, but the crag has had very little development. There are two large crags. All the climbs below are on the left one. Nothing is recorded on the right crag .

On the left wall is...

Silver Surfer 19 Pete Hunt '90 beta

Arete on L-hand side of the main face. Start in groove on L side of arete. Traverse onto it. #4 CD and #1.5 Friend in horizontal break. May be possible to start on R of arete?

Truck Stop 19 Bill McLeod '90 beta

The obvious crack L of K.C.. Probably been climbed before. You can finish up the direct finish of K.K. (below).

Karachi Corner 16 22m Hugh Logan '75 beta

Tricky wall at the bottom. Then up a groove to a platform. Step L off the climb.

Karachi Corner Direct Finish 17 beta

This better, direct finish used to be the 2nd pitch of Sind Groove.

Sind Groove 17 25m Hugh Logan,Warwick Anderson '75 beta

Next to Karachi Corner. Follow the groove for the first pitch and step L to a platform to belay. The second pitch leads R following a difficult-looking corner.

Sind Groove Direct Finish 20 Bill McLeod '90 beta

A more natural line and harder.

John Allen's Route 21 45m John Allen beta

Go up the wall (intermittent pro) to reach a groove. Follow the groove (crux).

On the R wall are a series of routes with excellent pro.

Dominatrix 20 10m Gavin Tweedie '90 beta

The first, bulging crack-line.

* Bleedin' Obvious 19 18m Clare Kermode '90 beta

The middle crack.

* Exhaust Specialities 18 20m Gavin Tweedie '90 beta

Up the brown groove between B.O. and Prima Donna. Good bridging up crack and wall.

Prima Donna 17 20m Lindsay Main '79 beta

The R-most of 3 cracks, starting from a vegetated platform. Bridge up the obvious groove to a small bulge, then L and up.

Not a Contraceptive 17 30m Gavin Tweedie '90 beta

Up the groove, step R and finish up the headwall.

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