Cattlestop Crag Beta
Dead Possum
The crux is getting off the deck, if you can get to the first pro placement (small wire) you'll cruise the rest. You can get more pro in before the first (and only) bolt, but you probably won't want it.
Reserves Need Gondolas
the pro really isn't that great - neither is the climbing.
Sacred Plummets
you can get good pro in beofre stepping out onto the arete and moving up to the lone bolt. Looks harder than it is - but is reachy.
Cold Turkey
only one 17 move with pro right in front of you.
Shimmering Jelly
You can get a small RP in before the first bolt. It's hard to know where the route really goes - following the bolts is probably more than 20, wandering about is much less than 20. Still pleasant climbing.
Thin Hedgehog
There's a new bolt with hanger about 2' left of the original (hangerless) bolt. You can actually go directly up the face to the bolt at about the same grade.
Nuggets
You can get a #2 tricam and a #4 RP in before the bolt if you feel the need. Start up the wall on the right on jugs, then move well left to get the sidepulls to move over the bulge to the bolt. It's much easier above the bolt.
Midnight's Children
You can clip the top bolts on 'Surgical Strike' instead of the original (scary) bolts if you're flexible. The direct finish (left) isn't that scary, and is preferable to moving right onto 'Passage to India'. Still quite a committing route though.
Surgical Strike
An instant classic, though some might be put of by the height of the first bolt - don't be, it's grade 10 jug pulling up to it. Crux is moving past the top bolt on technical holds, much easier (like grade 18) up to there.
Eleven Forty
getting off the ground an up to the first pro is the crux - very powerful. Above that it's grade 12 climbing, but on somewhat loose rock with dubious pro. Another one of Phil's iconoclastic masterpieces (just like 'The U Bend' at Flock Hill).
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