Coalditz Crag
Summary
This crag is above the road between Sumner and Lyttelton, about 1.5 kilometres on the Lyttelton side of Evans Pass. It is the best bit of rock in the area.
Access
As you drive up the long straight in the road above the harbour coal storage area, the crag is visible as a distinct outcrop of red rock up the hill above the end of the straight and slightly to the right. Park in a safe place and walk up the hill. Alternatively, park at Evans Pass and walk up the ridge until you can drop down to the crag from a rocky saddle. From central Christchurch it is shorter to Evans Pass via Lyttelton than via Sumner.Map Ref. NZMS 260, M36 888343.
Climbing
The rock is hard and fairly clean on the main buttress, although there is a preponderance of red lichen. A ledge around the bottom provides a convenient starting point for most routes. This is accessed from either side depending on what you wish to climb.From left to right...
| Skiing Defective | 17 | Neil Sloan '92 |  |
Find the large crack. Climb the arete right of it using pro in the groove. Jam the crack to the belay ledge. One bolt.
| The Harass Gang | 17 | Neil Sloan '91 | |
The right arete, onto the slab, then up to the overhang past the spike. Mount the bulge then up the wall moving left to the ledge.
| Humpty Dumpty Tries Rockclimbing | 19 | Neil Sloan '92 | |
The crack on the right of the slab. Layback to good holds, join THG briefly, then go for the right hand notch. Take small wires.
| Corporate Image | 23 | Peter Woolford '92 | |
Using the first bolt of LTN, move up then left until another bolt is reached. Groove to the pedestal, then take the left-leaning crack (crux) and arete.
| Loosening The Noose | 18 | |
Find the balancing blocks. Bridge past them, then left to the ledge. Bush bash up the small gully.
| Dug's Neurosurgery | 15 | |
The gully to the right of LTN.
| Hot Coals | 21 | Neil Sloan '92 | |
Gain the hollow then move right across the wall to the arete.
| Fossilised Fright | 18 | Neil Sloan '91 | |
Clip the bolt, then move left to the arete and up.
| Namaste | 16 | Neil Sloan '90 | |
Bridge the corner, move left, and take on the rooflet.
| Micro Fantasy | 20 | Peter Woolford '92 | |
The groove. Bridge until you can stand on the ledge to the right, then straight up the crack.
| Rubberneck Goes On Safari | 19 | Neil Sloan '90 | |
The right arete. Gain the lower ledge, go right to the next ledge, then left into the crack (crux) above the block.
| Ski It! | 17 | Neil Sloan '92 | |
The arete above the start of RGOS. Thin pro (RP's).
Asteroid Wall
East of the main crag is a lump reminiscent of an asteroid. Mount this, then down the slot and right at the bottom. Take CD's for belay (pockets).
| Touring The Asteroid | 17 | Neil Sloan '94 | |
Climb from the belay ledge to a large shelf. Step left then up past 3 bolts.
| Lunar Limpet | 20 | Neil Sloan '94 | |
Start as for TTA but continue straight up past 3 bolts.
| Noon Scape | 20 | Neil Sloan '94 | |
Right of the belay ledge, climb up and around the arete with the big pocket. Three bolts.