Fantasy Factory/Crystal Clearlight
Excellent hard jamming can be had at Crystal Clearlight, and more varied climbing is available at the Fantasy Factory. A good day's outing can be had by combining classics on the two of them. The cliffs are on the west side of the spur which runs down to Diamond Harbour from Herbert Peak. The cliffs are close together, just below the top of the spur, overlooking Charteris Bay. The Fantasy Fa ctory is the larger, more obvious cliff; Crystal Clearlight is a small overhanging cliff about 400m further south in a gully.
The cliffs are sheltered from easterly winds.
How to get there
Permission MUST be obtained. Ring the landowner, Mr Faigan, by phoning 329-4813 (Diamond Harbour). Only rarely is permission withheld.Access is from Charteris Bay, along Bayview Road (turn R off the main road at the phone box) till the seal ends. Cars can be taken along the unsealed portion of the road when it is in good condition. From where the road goes over the spur, walk up the spur for about 2 km, and sidle around to the cliffs. If a car is n't available, a launch can be caught to Diamond Harbour.
Map references: Sheet M36 877285 (Fantasy Factory) and 878283 (Crystal Clearlight).
History
As can be seen from the names of these crags and some of their climbs, there was a post-hippy boom going on in Christchurch at this time. The cliffs were firs t discovered in 1975 by Tim Wethey and Mike Franklin. On the Fantasy Factory, Wethey produced the excellent **Shortcut To Mushrooms (17), and *Mindbender (19), on e of the hardest Peninsula climbs at the time. Mike Franklin contributed **Bitterfingers (16), and on Crystal Clearlight, Black Bitch (16). Crystal Clearlight the n received attention from visitors, with Murray Judge contributing several climbs, and in 1976 Rick McGregor repeated the existing hard routes and added some more. In 1979-80, John Howard contributed the hardest routes on each cliff, *Birdbrain (22) on the Fantasy Factory and *Hopping up the Mild Side (23) at Crystal Clearlight.
Climbing Notes
Descent routes at each cliff are simply around either end of the cliff.
Fantasy Factory
On the upper part of the cliff at the L-hand side is...
| Nurdle | 13 | 12m | John Howard '76 |  |
Climb up the wall for 5m. Step R on fractured blocks and jam in the corner (crux). Up blocks at the top.
| Double Vision | 14 | 15m | John Barnes '76 | |
The twin cracks. Up an easy corner to the bulge (crux) and loose blocks, then up the cracks.
The next routes go the full length of the cliff...
| Faigan | 10 | 25m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Up grooves and over ledges for about 20m. Then step L and climb the crack over a large block (crux), and finish up the corner.
| The Cave | 12 | 25m | Tim Wethey '78 | |
Just L of the prominent arete. Start at the arete and climb up to a small cave , then up into the groove. Step R and up (crux) at the overhangs. Over broken ground to the L of a small nose and into the R-ward slanting crack.
| Second Wind | 14 | 30m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The crack on the R wall of the gully. Continue up directly, and exit slightly R in a R-angle corner
| Jorgie | 16 | 30m | Tim Wethey '75 | |
On the wall to the L of the big gully with the overhanging headwall. Up an indistinct groove to a small roof at 10m. Above, the route seeks the difficulties: up a groove with a bush at the top, walk 3m R, up a series of flakes. At the headwall, take the L-hand crack and bulge.
| * Birdbrain | 22 | 30m | John Howard '79 | |
Climb the easy gully over the bulges, then take the central exit, over the very committing overhang and up the headwall.
| * Mindbender | 19 | 30m | Tim Wethey '75 | |
Up the gully as for Birdbrain, but move out to the R below the roof. Layback around the roof.
| *** Not Crack but still Ecstasy | 23 | 30m | Richard Kimberley '98 | |
directly left of Short Cut to Mushrooms. Eight bolts, wires.There's also a direct start and alternative finish (24 - Richard Kimberely)
| ** Short Cut to Mushrooms | 17 | 30m | Tim Wethey '75 | |
A classic. The striking corner with a roof at 6m. Exit R on the ramp. There is also a direct or a L finish (both 18).
| Ratchet | 19 | 30m | Bill Denz/John Howard | |
This serious, poorly protected route starts in a vague groove. At 5m traverse L into the corner (alternatively start directly - 19). Climb over blocks in the corner and out the R-hand side of the bulge above. From the ledge continue up the groove, hardest at the top. Bill Denz did the start and John Howard the finish.
| Sticky Moments | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Start as for 'Ratchet', up to an obvious fin and then a slab before finishing up the 'Ratchet normal finish. Natural pro, scary.
| Poms in Circumstances | 22/23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Between 'Ratchet and 'Heretic'. Finishes up the wall right of the final groove of 'Ratchet'. Natural pro, double ropes handy.
| Feeling the Pinch | 24 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Ten metres right of Short Cut to Mushrooms. A brown slab leads to a roof and groove above.
| Heretic | 20 | 20m | Phil Herron '75 | |
To the left of Women's Weekly. An easy start up a wall leads to a poorly protected groove.
| Women's Weekly | 14 | 20m | Mike Franklin '75 | |
The prominent corner with a roof at 6m (crux).
| Un-named | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Left of Bruno, climb the initial roof into a groove, left and up.
| Un-named | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Right of the previous route, a bouldery start up a rib to a pleasant wall.
| * Bruno | 18 | 25m | Tim Wethey '75 | |
The thin crack to the R of Women's Weekly. Step R on the ledge, then take the weakness straight up the wall.
| Prime Suspect | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
5 bolts. Just left of next climb, into the groove and up to the hanging corner. Shares a double bolt belay with Older not Bolder.
| Older not Bolder | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
5 bolts. Starts below the cabbage tree at the cave come ledge left of Au Natural. 10 metres left of Bitterfingers.
| Au Natural | 20 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
Natural gear line up the vague weakness to the left of Bitter Fingers.
| Xena - Warrior Princess | 20 | Richard Kimberley '98 | |
a natural pro climb just left of Bitterfingers.
| ** Bitterfingers | 16 | 30m | Mike Franklin '75 | |
Sustained high quality. Bridge up the smooth groove, and continue over bulges.
| Rat Race | 16 | 30m | Murray Judge '75 | |
This route takes the two grooves in the middle of the wall. Start up a steep wall (unprotected), and into a groove. Move L into the other groove and up. Two exits.
| There's Arete In My Soup | 19 | 30m | Alan Hill '98 | |
the arete right of RR.
| Roll Up | 21 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
5 bolts. On the next buttress after Bitterfingers. Starts 3 metres right of the corner. Shares a double bolt belay with the next 2 routes.
| Weed Killer | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
5 bolts. Up shallow r. facing corner to roof, followed by strenuous moves over it.
| Weed Eater | 23 | Tony Burnell '98 | |
5 bolts. Hard bouldery start and then up and thru roof via scoop.
| Hit the Deck | 21 | Richard Kimberley '98 | |
Starts in the corner, and follows the line two metres right of the arete.
| Magical Mystery Tour | 24 | Richard Kimberley '98 | |
Up wall, left rib hanging corner, then left again to arete and up.
| The Mangle | 18 | 10m | Murray Judge '75 | |
The overhanging jam crack on the far R of the cliff, just L of the chimney. Strenuous.
Crystal Clearlight
| T. Hex | 16 | 15m | Murray Judge '75 | |
Climb the chimney for 4m, then traverse R beneath the nose (crux). Continue straight up.
| Goodbat Nightman | 17 | 15m | Murray Judge '75 | |
Start at the R-hand of two cracks and climb up on jugs. Exit through the roof. Sustained.
| Rottcod | 19 | 15m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
Up the steep weakness. The crux is an awkward and committing move into the R-leaning off-width.
| * Daunt | 22 | 15m | John Allen '80 | |
The L-hand of two corners in a recess. Up overhanging rock past two sets of horizontal jugs to good holds above.
| * The Four Beasts of the Apocalypse | 21 | 15m | John Howard '80 | |
The R-hand corner. Awkward moves R into the hanging groove, then traverse R to finish up Tibrogargan.
| * Tibrogargan | 21 | 18m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
The steep, shallow, R-leaning crack on the small arete. Exit R from the crack then back L and up the wall.
| Hobo's Blues | 22 | 20m | John Allen '80 | |
Climb Paranoia Blues for a few feet, then move out L to a groove. From the ledge finish out L up Tibrogargan.
| Paranoia Blues | 19 | 20m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
The thin, overhanging crack. Most people have bridged to Bentley Jam Machine. Finish up B.J.M..
| * Bentley Jam Machine | 17 | 20m | Daryll Thomson '75 | |
The prominent crack. Off-width at start (crux), followed by good jamming. Exit directly through the roof (18), or to the L (may be inhabited by a rat nest).
| Death or Glory | 20 | 20m | Brent Davis | |
Up the wall between B.J.M. and Dreamtree Sequence. No pro.
| Dreamtree Sequence | 16 | 20m | Murray Judge '75 | |
Up a wall and shallow chimney (crux), and then the crack through the roof.
| * Gladwrap | 14 | 18m | Mike Franklin '75 | |
The prominent chimney.
| * Hopping up the Mild Side | 23 | 15m | John Howard '80 | |
This is possibly the worst name in the book. A steep fingery wall, with a good old traditional spike runner.
| ** Black Bitch | 16 | 15m | Mike Franklin '75 | |
A classic route with good jamming. The steep jam crack on black rock, starting at the fence. Hardest at the top.
| * Silk Torpedo | 15 | 15m | Tim Wethey '75 | |
Start at a thin crack on the wall. Take care not to lift the pro out. Move R to finish, or exit directly (16).
| Acrylic Toupee | 18 | 15m | John Barnes | |
Up the arete all the way.
| * Curved Air | 17 | 15m | John Barnett/Fred Fromm | |
The jam crack through the curving bulge. Either finish L, or directly up the steep crack (18). John Barnett did the start ('75), and Fred Fromm added the direct finish ('78).
| * Aardvark | 20 | 10m | Bill Atkinson | |
The steep wall. Finish L . No pro, sustained.
| Fancy Woman | 12 | 15m | Mike Franklin '75 | |
The corner. Awkward at the top.
| Tobias Treetime | 13 | 15m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
Jam up a steep crack to a sloping ledge (crux). From the ledge continue R-wards.