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Fawlty Towers
Half way up the Purau Valley on the west side, a mass of rock crags are
visible from the road to the Monument. Two reasonable crags are amongst
these - Fawlt y Towers and Purau Valley Wall. The right cliff, Fawlty
Towers, was first visit ed by Murray Judge and Hugh Logan in 1976/77. Then
Tim Wethey, Nigel Perry, and Peter Cleary visited in 1986.
Purau Valley Wall is 100m L of Fawlty Towers. There is only one recorded
route, but there is lots of rock and promise here. The cliff is steep,
high, and blank grooves abound - bring your bolt kit.
Access to these cliffs is from the back of Diamond Harbour. On the minor
back-road to Church Bay, park at end of seal. Landowner is Blakely/Keenan.
Walk up th e ridge for approx. 30 minutes. Just before a trig, drop down
on the Purau Valley side. Map Ref: M36 888282.
Purau Valley Wall
Ancient Gallery |
16 |
25m |
Jonathon Gandy '90 |
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The large L-facing corner. Loose and scary. Leads to an arse-ripping
finish. Death potential.
Fawlty Towers
The first two routes start from a ledge which is grovelled onto from the L.
Fifty Guillotines |
17 |
10m |
Tim Wethey '86 |
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The cutting edge of modern climbing. The obvious chimney. Start in
chimney or, in a vain attempt to miss out 20 of the guillotines, on the R
wall. Nice finish, otherwise scary.
* Scorpion |
18 |
10m |
Tim Wethey '86 |
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The L-facing corner. A nice bridging route on good rock, with a little nip
in its tail.
The Snarl |
16 |
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Callum Hudson '86 |
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Down and R of Scorpion. Up a L-facing corner. Trend L up slab above.
Bombay Chimney |
16 |
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Murray Judge '76 |
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The prominent chimney in the middle of the cliff with an overhang at the top.
Ivory Corner |
14 |
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Murray Judge (solo) '76 |
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Grooves lead to a prominent R-facing corner with hollow blocks at the top.
Swift |
17 |
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Nigel Perry '86 |
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On the slabby wall R. of I.C.. Climb cracks to 2/3 height, down and R to
arete. Finish up the R side of this. Adequate pro.
The Yellow Peril |
16 |
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Tim Wethey '86 |
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Climb up to below a loose yellow overhang. Move L and up more solid corner above.
* Ama Dablam |
16 |
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Nigel Perry '86 |
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A reasonably nice route up the L side of the bulging block. Adequate pro.
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