Fawlty Towers


Half way up the Purau Valley on the west side, a mass of rock crags are visible from the road to the Monument. Two reasonable crags are amongst these - Fawlt y Towers and Purau Valley Wall. The right cliff, Fawlty Towers, was first visit ed by Murray Judge and Hugh Logan in 1976/77. Then Tim Wethey, Nigel Perry, and Peter Cleary visited in 1986.

Purau Valley Wall is 100m L of Fawlty Towers. There is only one recorded route, but there is lots of rock and promise here. The cliff is steep, high, and blank grooves abound - bring your bolt kit.

Access to these cliffs is from the back of Diamond Harbour. On the minor back-road to Church Bay, park at end of seal. Landowner is Blakely/Keenan. Walk up th e ridge for approx. 30 minutes. Just before a trig, drop down on the Purau Valley side. Map Ref: M36 888282.

Purau Valley Wall

Ancient Gallery 16 25m Jonathon Gandy '90 beta
The large L-facing corner. Loose and scary. Leads to an arse-ripping finish. Death potential.

Fawlty Towers

The first two routes start from a ledge which is grovelled onto from the L.

Fifty Guillotines 17 10m Tim Wethey '86 beta

The cutting edge of modern climbing. The obvious chimney. Start in chimney or, in a vain attempt to miss out 20 of the guillotines, on the R wall. Nice finish, otherwise scary.

* Scorpion 18 10m Tim Wethey '86 beta

The L-facing corner. A nice bridging route on good rock, with a little nip in its tail.

The Snarl 16 Callum Hudson '86 beta

Down and R of Scorpion. Up a L-facing corner. Trend L up slab above.

Bombay Chimney 16 Murray Judge '76 beta

The prominent chimney in the middle of the cliff with an overhang at the top.

Ivory Corner 14 Murray Judge (solo) '76 beta

Grooves lead to a prominent R-facing corner with hollow blocks at the top.

Swift 17 Nigel Perry '86 beta

On the slabby wall R. of I.C.. Climb cracks to 2/3 height, down and R to arete. Finish up the R side of this. Adequate pro.

The Yellow Peril 16 Tim Wethey '86 beta

Climb up to below a loose yellow overhang. Move L and up more solid corner above.

* Ama Dablam 16 Nigel Perry '86 beta

A reasonably nice route up the L side of the bulging block. Adequate pro.

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