Gibraltar Rock


Although it's canterbury's smallest crag, with but a handful of routes, the great rock quality, pleasant routes and nice setting make gibraltar rock a place worth a visit on a summers day.

Gibraltar rock is situated below the summit road overlooking tai tapu on the way to gebbie's pass. Although it's on private land, climbing is tolerated, though it pays to keep away during lambing.

gibraltar rock topo
HHydrabollocksCdGCoup de Grace
SSSoft SoapIIconoclast
PPenitenceTWThe Wasteland
DHDynamo HumPHPrivate Hell
WDWasted DazeSHSalisbury Hill
WDDWasted Daze Direct  

Hydrabollocks 23 John Chambers '84 beta

In a gully on the the left side of the crag, on one of the larger facets of rock.An obvious crack leads to a resting place before moving right to climb a shallow corner. Use of a foothold on the wall right of the rib enables a reach to be made to higher handholds, then up to easy climbing. Too much slack swings one to ground level. Protection !

Soft Soap 7   beta

Easy scrambling up the left side of the main crag, to the left of P. The usual descent route.

Penitence 12   beta

The second gully left of the main face, climb the gully on good holds. Good protection.

Dynamo Hum 15   beta

Up the slightly overhanging wall right of P. gully. Climb up on small holds and underclings to join W.D. arête at the top. Good protection.

Wasted Daze 16   beta

Takes the left arête of the slabby wall, tricky to protect. Easier if the central line is followed until 3/4 height, before moving left to the arête.

Wasted Daze Direct 20   beta

Continues up the centre of the wall moving a little right at the top. A bit gripping if your not a good slab climber,and poor protection bothers you!

Coup de Grace 14   beta

The gully groove left of the main face, protection is adequate.

Iconoclast 15   beta

Gain the arête just right of C de G. using cracks on the left continue up to the little headwall.(the angle peg is old but everyone clips it) Climb the crack and on to the top. Belay takes a bit of thought. Good protection. Pleasant climb.

Knob Gnarley Arête 17 Neville Taylor '91 beta

The Wasteland 22   beta

The blank wall 3m to the right of I. Protection on I. pre-placed ? but runners are left behind when moving right and up to the horizontal break. Finish up the bulging wall above no more runners after friends at the break.

Private Hell 22   beta

Climb the wall right of W. past a bolt, continue with easier face climbing trending right.

Salisbury Hill 24 John Allen beta

The hard mans test piece, the right arête of the main face. From the shelf climb up into a corner, then move right and with much difficulty use the crack to climb the bulge and move right to the arête. Place friends in break and move onto the right wall then back left to gain summit jugs. Good protection on the bottom (back up the fixed wire).

Salisbury Sewer 17 Lindsay Main beta

Around the corner on the south facing wall, nearly always wet. Climbs the obvious fist/offwidth crack with a small roof at the bottom. Has some good moves for the conisewer of scungy cracks.

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