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Although it's canterbury's smallest crag, with but a handful
of routes, the great rock quality, pleasant routes and nice
setting make gibraltar rock a place worth a visit on a summers
day.
Gibraltar rock is situated below the summit road overlooking tai tapu
on the way to gebbie's pass. Although it's on private land, climbing
is tolerated, though it pays to keep away during lambing.
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H | Hydrabollocks | CdG | Coup de Grace |
SS | Soft Soap | I | Iconoclast |
P | Penitence | TW | The Wasteland |
DH | Dynamo Hum | PH | Private Hell |
WD | Wasted Daze | SH | Salisbury Hill |
WDD | Wasted Daze Direct |   |   |
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Hydrabollocks |
23 |
John Chambers '84 |
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In a gully on the the left side of the crag, on one of the larger
facets of rock.An obvious crack leads to a resting place before moving
right to climb a shallow corner. Use of a foothold on the wall right
of the rib enables a reach to be made to higher handholds, then up to
easy climbing. Too much slack swings one to ground level. Protection !
Soft Soap |
7 |
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Easy scrambling up the left side of the main crag, to the left of P.
The usual descent route.
Penitence |
12 |
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The second gully left of the main face, climb the gully on good holds.
Good protection.
Dynamo Hum |
15 |
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Up the slightly overhanging wall right of P. gully. Climb up on small
holds and underclings to join W.D. arête at the top. Good protection.
Wasted Daze |
16 |
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Takes the left arête of the slabby wall, tricky to protect. Easier if
the central line is followed until 3/4 height, before moving left to
the arête.
Wasted Daze Direct |
20 |
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Continues up the centre of the wall moving a little right at the top.
A bit gripping if your not a good slab climber,and poor protection
bothers you!
Coup de Grace |
14 |
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The gully groove left of the main face, protection is adequate.
Iconoclast |
15 |
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Gain the arête just right of C de G. using cracks on the left continue
up to the little headwall.(the angle peg is old but everyone clips it)
Climb the crack and on to the top. Belay takes a bit of thought. Good
protection. Pleasant climb.
Knob Gnarley Arête |
17 |
Neville Taylor '91 |
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The Wasteland |
22 |
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The blank wall 3m to the right of I. Protection on I. pre-placed ? but
runners are left behind when moving right and up to the horizontal
break. Finish up the bulging wall above no more runners after friends
at the break.
Private Hell |
22 |
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Climb the wall right of W. past a bolt, continue with easier face
climbing trending right.
Salisbury Hill |
24 |
John Allen |
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The hard mans test piece, the right arête of the main face. From the
shelf climb up into a corner, then move right and with much difficulty
use the crack to climb the bulge and move right to the arête. Place
friends in break and move onto the right wall then back left to gain
summit jugs. Good protection on the bottom (back up the fixed wire).
Salisbury Sewer |
17 |
Lindsay Main |
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Around the corner on the south facing wall, nearly always wet. Climbs
the obvious fist/offwidth crack with a small roof at the bottom.
Has some good moves for the conisewer of scungy cracks.
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