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Summary
Perched on the side of Huntsbury Hill, this small west-facing crag is visible
from the Summit Road as one drives east from Sugarloaf.
Access
The crag is on the west side of Huntsbury Spur, just below the airfield. From town go up
Parklands Drive or Ramahama Road to Huntsbury Ave and up to the end of the road. Walk or
drive up the track to the airfield, where the track swings east to head towards the Summit Road.
Head west from the spur and the crag should be immediately seen to the right. Alternatively you
can descend from the Summit Road, or walk or bike up the Bowenvale Track.
The whole area is owned by the City Council, so access is not a problem.
Climbing
The climbs are clustered together on the highest and cleanest part of the crag.
The rock is trachyte and is mostly solid, with excellent friction, but is a bit dirty in places
because of the small number of ascents. Most routes use a mix of bolts and natural pro.
The climbs are about 8-15 metres long. There are six anchor stations at the top - four of them use
double bolts and chains, but two combine a single chain with a convenient hex or cd placement.
A mid-sized CD is useful on many routes.
The crag is free of the elitism found elsewhere in that even the easy routes
are well protected, with bolts where necessary. With grades ranging from 11 to 23
there's something for everyone, but not many routes at any particular grade.
Routes, from left to right...
the first three routes are on a small buttress at the far left.
| After The Goldrush |
17 |
Lindsay Main, Feb '97 |
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a prominent jam crack on the left edge of the cliff. The rock is better than it looks.
| Everyone Should Have a Hobby |
11 |
Lindsay Main, Feb '97 |
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up easy ground to the left of the arete and finish up the crack.
| Un-named |
14 |
Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 |
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arete with one bolt on the right, crack on the left for pro as well. Good photo op.
| Innovation |
19 |
Joe Arts, Feb '97 |
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to the right of the arete, takes a broken line with a small roof near the top (crux). Natural
pro, some of which is good. Double ropes recommended.
| Pack It In |
12 |
Joe Arts, Feb '97 |
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on the left edge of the next wall. Shares a bolt with the next route. Finish
all the way to the top of the cliff or wander off. A CD can be used in the crack
to the right to protect the exit.
| Pack'n'Save |
15 |
Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 |
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Takes a weakness in the centre of the wall, just right of the bolt (there's also
a variation which goes straight up past the bolt). Good moves with natural pro
in the crack. Two ropes useful. Double chain at the top.
| Lazy Days of Summer |
16 |
Adrien McLeod, Feb '97 |
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a metre to the right, with one bolt and natural pro. Good if committing moves
above the bolt. Move left to the anchor chains.
| Thermalling Hawks |
17 |
Adrien McLeod |
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one bolt, natural pro (wires plus #2 friend) up to two bolt chains.
on the next section of the cliff
| Killing Moon |
23 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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A low angled wall leads to an overhanging headwall and strenuous moves.
Two bolts with a CD at the top.
| The Price of Progress |
17 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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Just right of the grassy descent gully there's a steep left-leaning ramp with an
overhanging right wall. Clip the bolt and make the move up left.
Continue rightward to anchor.
| Dry Bush Road |
17 |
Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 |
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A steep groove and crack with three bolts (the top one is shared with TOTTL).
Exit up the crack slightly to the right.
| Coronation Hospital |
21 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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A groove with three bolts featuring steep bridging. You can step right
after clipping the third bolt, or make it harder by finishing directly.
| Albatross Arms |
21 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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An overhanging left-leaning groove with one bolt and natural pro above.
Power move past the bolt, then it's cruisy.
| MacRae's Mining |
19 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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Start a metre left of a small shrub about three metres up the wall.
Thought-provoking moves past the bolts, CD at the top. A bit dirty at present
but it will clean up nicely.
| The Go-between |
22 |
Joe Arts, Jan '97 |
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start below the shrun and clip the first bolt on MM. Up the crack (natural pro) and onto
the arete, exiting right. Awkward and rather crumbly, two ropes are useful
| Edna |
18 |
Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 |
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Technical moves on a steep wall past two bolts. From the ledge clip a third bolt
on the top wall, move up, and step left to anchor chains.
| Edna Variation |
17 |
Adrienne McLeod, Oct '96 |
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A metre right with one bolt on the lower wall. Use the edge at right to
assist upward movement. Then clip the bolt on the top wall and move up on
the right to anchor chains.
| Huntsbury Ave |
20 |
Joe Arts, Oct '96 |
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A couple of metres right is an obvious crack with a gnarly-looking block
sticking out. Shove a CD in against this and charge up the crack.
Exit directly or to the right.
| The Dominion Workers' Party |
22 |
Joe Arts, Nov '96 |
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The thin seam about a metre right of the obvious crack. Grunt up to the
stance on the steep wall above the undercut. Watch out for the loose bit on
the left. Move up somehow. Exit left up the mantle or stagger off to the right. Two bolts.
| Southpower Direct |
20 |
Joe Arts, Nov '96 |
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the arete to the right. The first ascent used the crack to the right for pro, along with
the bolt to the right for the last moves. Alternately, you can now clip the bolts on the left.
| Road Access |
13 |
Joe Arts, Nov '96 |
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the easy corner and crack. Natural pro along with a bolt. Exit left or straight up.
| Broken Turbine |
15 |
Joe Arts, Feb '97 |
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tow metres right is this small wall with a reachy move past a bolt. Up over the scrub
to a double chain anchor.
| Look-see |
16 |
Joe Arts, Feb '97 |
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ten metres right is a small wall with two bolts. Good climbing on positive holds to a single
bolt chain beside a CD placement.
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Huntsbury Spur Crag