Little River
Summary
There are some good routes here, especially in the higher grades. The cliff is very pleasant on a hot mid-summer nor-west day since it's shady and vegetated. In winter it tends to remain wet.How to get there
The climbing area is 50km from Christchurch, on the Akaroa highway 1km short of Little River township. It is about 250m above the highway. Permission must be obtained from the farmer (Stanbury), who lives in the large house on the bend in the road just before the cliff. The best access is from a gate below the L-ha nd side of the cliff. Walk up the hill and veer R into the pine trees when gorse is reached. Map Ref: N 36 915138.History
Another Lindsay Main find of another unprepossessing crag, but it is close to the road and pub. The first route recorded on the cliff was Eclipse (15) in January 1975 by Lindsay Main, who continued to make occasional visits with various partners. In 1977 he climbed *Monarch (18) free with Henry Mares, who put up The Pretender (17). A break-through was made in October 1979, with the ascent of *Brain Damage (20), and since then a number of routes of similar difficulty have been a dded by him, John McCallum and Brian Fish.Climbing Notes
The walking track round the base of the cliff may need maintenance from time to time. The rock is sometimes shattered, especially near the base of the cliff. At the R-hand end of the cliff, the descent route is simply around the end of t he cliff. For the rest of the cliff it is easiest to abseil from a tree, which generally requires two ropes.| Euclid Gully | 14 | 25m | Henry Mares '77 |  |
This is a large gully with trees on the L side of the part of the cliff in which rock predominates over vegetation. Massive earthworks were required to bring it to its present condition. Start either L or R. The exit is the crux.
| Mercury Reaches Zero | Joe Arts '98 | |
the arete left of Monarch
| * Monarch | 18 | 35m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The prominent R-facing corner with a striking exit through the L side of a huge roof, which is easier than appearances would suggest (originally climbed with aid by Stuart Allan/Lindsay Main '76).
| If Pigs Could Fly | 18 | 30m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
Meanders around the sty looking for a way out. Scramble up the start of M., or climb up the groove (15). Move R across the slab (crux, pro from crack) to reach the R corner. Up to the lower roof and then R onto the wall. Across to and u p the R crack, then hand-traverse back L to reach the corner above the main roof. Vegetated finish - move L.
| Oftways Clearing | 22 | 30m | Joe Arts '98 | |
up the obvious arete left of Friendzy
| Friendzy | 22 | 30m | Brian Fish '81 | |
The direct exit from the big roof. The crux move is hand jamming to turn the roof.
| Nutpicker | 19 | 30m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
A poor climb. Up a vegetated easy wall, tending L then R. Climb the thin crack on the R wall of the corner (crux), bridging to the corner at the top.
| * The Pretender | 17 | 35m | Henry Mares '77 | |
An excellent climb.The centre of three grooves, with a tree at the base. The start is vegetated and loose. Bridging above a tree 15m up is the crux.
| Soft Option | 12 | 25m | Brent Davis/Lindsay Main | |
A poor climb which would be improved by cleaning. Start up a vegetated corner, and continue up the same line. Lindsay Main did the start and Brent Davis completed the route in 1980.
| Gardener's Groove | 16 | 20m | Lindsay Main '76 | |
The clean R-angle corner leading to a vegetated crack. Aid move required on the first ascent. Free if cleaned.
| Energy Crisis | 19 | 20m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
Involves a prominent large overhang. Easy start, then up the overhanging crack to the tree below the overhanging headwall. Abseil from the tree.
In the area where the vegetation changes from trees on the L-hand side of the cliff to gorse and scrub on the R...
| Bisector | 16 | 28m | Stu Allan '76 | |
A R-facing corner. The wide, flaring part of the crack about 10m up is the crux. Above this traverse L and finish up a knobbly wall.
| Sty in the Sky | 17 | 40m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Probably the worst climb in Canterbury. Up a slab beneath a large overhanging headwall, moving L, and then back to the R. Move R into a broken corner, and up into a clean-cut corner (crux). Finish straight up past a tree and over blocks.
| Antihistamine Blues | 18 | 15m | Brent Davis '80 | |
Thin crack with black rock on its R. Thin climbing and pro for about 6m, easing towards the top.
| The Queens Body English | 21 | 20m | John McCallum '80 | |
L-hand of two steep cracks just L of the fence. Required one rest on a nut where the crack widens.
| Big Meanie | 21 | 25m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
The R-hand crack just L of the fence. Undercut start, then up the crack (crux) and tend slightly R to a ledge. Step L on to the large block, then straight up over blocks to exit R in a scrubby gully.
| Little Horror | 20 | 25m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
Start up a weakness just above the fence to the bulge. Mantleshelf gymnastically onto the incut ledge above (crux). Up the wall above, tending slightly R beside a small crack (19). Move L and finish as for B.M..
| Big Mama | 20 | 25m | Joe Arts '98 | |
| Lost in Space | 17 | 25m | Joe Arts '98 | |
| Mind Games | 19 | 25m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
A little R of the fence, a R-leaning corner with a vegetated start. Technical but rather dirty. Thrash through scrub, layback up the ramp, pull over the bulge, and balance up the corner (crux) finish up the broken corner.
The next routes are on the steep section of cliff to the R of the heavily vegetated section.
| Twisted Mind | 14 | 25m | James Jenkins | |
A rather meandering route. Start in small corner just L of a bare, overhanging wall. L around the corner, then up to a ledge. Move several metres R to finish near False Colours.
| False Colours | 19 | 25m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
Above a clearing in the scrub at the base of the cliff. Up a vague weakness with a thin L-leaning crack to a deeply incised vegetated gully. Climb the crack (crux), and a short steep wall above with poor pro. L and around blocks, then up just L of a gorse bush to a ledge. Continue up same line.
| Us and Them | 14 | 25 m | John Barnett/Tony Harrison '79 | |
A dreadful climb. Starts behind a tree with a large fallen branch. Up the wall or the crack to the R (harder), to a vegetated corner and small tree. The indirect finish (14) goes to the R here, then up and back L. The direct finish goes up a steep loose wall with poor pro. Indirect John Barnett '76, direct Tony Harrison '79
| * Brain Damage | 20 | 30m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
Excellent. Starts at a large rock. Up the wall (unprotected) to a L-facing groove with a thin crack (crux) which is climbed by bridging and balance to a ledg e. Then climb the steep crack above (16) and the L jam crack to finish.
| Spectrum | 14 | 25m | Lindsay Main '75 | |
Starts at a steep thin crack. Finish up same line.
| Eclipse | 15 | 25 m | Lindsay Main/Daryll Thomson | |
Start at a L-facing black corner hidden in the scrub. The start is the crux (gymnastic). At mid-height take either the L or R exit - R is better. Lindsay Mai n did the route in '75, Daryll Thomson did the R-hand finish soon after.
| Crown of Thorns | 14 | 20m | Bruce Drury '75 | |
Starts at a crack and huge flake leading R. Step R around the block and finish up the shattered rock above.