Feeding Time at the Zoo
a #5 hex seems to fit best in the break to protect the
crux moves up over the bulge (though pretty much anything that
fits will probably work). Above the bolt the crack is somewhat
awkward to protect (large nuts or cam #3.5 seems the best option), though
the climbing is much easier anyway.
Driftnet
the difficulty of the crux move (pulling up on the small
finger slot) is directly proportional to finger size - the bigger
your fingers the worse it is. Once established on the horizontal
ledge you can pretty much lace the crack at will. If you're
doing the left groove finish the only pro is a largish RP
in a small (somewhat fragile looking) notch, if you're
doing the direct finish then get established in the large
round depression and place a large (#5/#6) wire in the top
of 'promised land' (requires long arms or good aim).
The Promised Land
not as bad as it looks - the rusty piton doesn't
inspire confidence but has held several falls.
In the horizontal there's a good #1.5 cam placement in the right
end of the break (make sure you get it seated right) and also
a pretty good #2 cam, opposed wires are also an option. Above
that a good largish (#5/#6) wire behind the top of the pedestal
gives good protection for the top section. Still, not a route
to fall off if it can be helped.
Restless
the crux is directly above the 2nd (last) bolt - trickier than
it looks.
Environment Centre Bites the Dust
The bouldery direct start isn't something you'd want to fall off - you
get quite high up very quickly. It is possible to place a #00 cam
to protect the move onto the ledge, however some people pump out
placing it. Once established on the ledge
the pro is great - cams, hexes, nuts. Use the new belay directly above (as opposed to the old
belay out left on 'out on a limb') to avoid risking a nasty pendulum for your second
White Lies
same start as for 'environment centre' - same warning about falling
off. The crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt - there's a good hold to clip
the 2nd bolt from above the bolt (this of course exposes you to
a bigger potential fall).
Victim of Ravishment
whilst the most powerful climbing is low down, most people
seem to fall either heading up to the last bolt (small holds, balancy technical
climbing), or above it
(awkward moves on slopers). A route for those
with good stamina.
Bombs Away
It only looks low angled!!!! Quite technical, especially between
the 1st and 2nd bolt. An on the ball belayer can stop you hitting the trees
between them. Short people find the moves to the 3rd and final bolt
extremely committing - not a good place to fall off.
Scratching Julius
In case you're wondering, Julius was John Visser's cat.
Whether he scratched people as badly as this climb remains unknown.
Not very technical - but pretty vicious and powerful.
Getting Rid of Mr Clean
starts pretty much as it carrys on all the way up - powerful!!
Watch out clipping the second bolt - definite ground fall
potential. Above the 2nd bolt move left and follow the
good holds - going directly up is harder.
Citizen Kane
since it's gear protected above the lone bolt you need
enough stamina to hang around and get the gear in. The
pro itself is good if you can place it. Taking something that will
fit the wide crack is a good idea - unfortunately the crack
flares internally so a large #3.5 cam, whilst ok, isn't
overly confidence inspiring, a large hex would be better.
Jug Jockey
All the hard climbing is before the 3rd bolt - go fast. The cam
that protects the top is in a hard to spot horizontal, just at knee
height on your right when you're standing on the rest ledge. You can chicken
out up the groove on the right, but to do the route properly you should
finish straight up the slabby wall above the ledge.
Art For Arts Sake
a good route - crux getting started and another right at the top.
Rock Shock
another very safe route. Pretty much sustained sloper
pulling between the 2nd and 4th bolts, go fast so you
don't get too pumped. After the 4th bolt you can move left
to easy ground, or if you're keen climb the prow directly
Colonel Malone
with four bolts it's pretty safe - probably the safest bolted
route at Lyttelton Rock. Crux is the bulge above the last bolt.