Mount Bradley
Summary
This would perhaps be Christchurch's best crag, if it were next to the road on the Port Hills. But it's not. Mt Bradley (formerly Mount Herbert) is the hill south of Lyttelton Harbour, and the second highest point on Banks Peninsula. The cliffs are near the summit on the north side, overlooking the harbour. It's a long walk (1 1/2 hrs), but the excellence of the climbing has made Mt. Bradley an important crag. The cliff is steep and the rock smooth and generally solid. The routes mostly follow obvious cracks so jamming is an essential technique.There are four separate cliffs: the Main Cliff, which is the lefthand part of the lower tier, the Right Cliff to the R; the small Castle Cliff between the lat ter two; and the Upper Tier, which is immediately below the summit plateau. The cliff has little shelter, but is very sunny and is best avoided on a hot summer day. Drying is relatively slow.
How to get there
Drive to Orton Bradley Park at Charteris Bay. Up the valley on the R is Mount Bradley, and the cliffs are obvious beneath the summit. Walk the track up the va lley, then strike up the hill directly to the cliffs.
History
The first recorded visit to the crag was in 1975, when Hugh Logan and Murray Judge climbed some minor routes. Shortly after, Nick Cradock established the clas sic route *Guillotine 16. In 1976 Rick McGregor put up another classic, *Son of Hangman 17. In late 1977, development started in earnest and for the next two years Lindsay Main and Henry Mares dominated with some fourteen new routes. By Winter 1978 most of the routes on the Right Cliff had been climbed. Then little was done until Lindsay Main climbed the first of the four impressive steep cracks *Cripple Crack (19) to the R of the nose on the Main Cliff in April 1979.The amazing corner line on the nose, ***White Wizard (22), was climbed shortly after by John Howard, and later in the year John Allen put up the improbable **Thin White Duke (23) next to it to provide an excellent group of high-quality routes. In early 1980 the two Johns climbed a number of short hard routes up to grade 23 on the L side, including Howard's classic **Yo-Yo (21). Since then, apart fr om Ton Snelder and Craig Hamilton adding a handful of routes in 1983, the crag has had little traffic.
Climbing Notes
At the top of some climbs are stacked loose blocks to provide a suitably thrilling finish. Take care. The descent routes are around the ends of the cliffs and down the gullies between them, and down Easy Chimney. Some easy routes of no particular merit have not been described here.
The Main Cliff
On the small buttress at the far L is...
| Quickstep | 17 | 13m | Lindsay Main '83 |  |
The R of the two cracks. Straight up (crux) to a small bulge, move R and past the bush in crack.
| Nymph | 13 | 15m | Bryan Dyson '77 | |
The crack on the R of the broken corner with vegetation at the top and blocks at the bottom.
| Tribunal | 15 | 15m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
An obvious broken corner/crack. Very loose. The crux is the wide section at the top.
| Chinese Midwife | 16 | 15m | Henry Mares '77 | |
A shallow groove with finger jamming to a large platform (crux), then up the broken crack.
| Bikini | 18 | 15m | Marty Beare '79 | |
A climb in two parts; the steep jam crack leading to the same platform and finish as C.M..
| Pigs On The Wing | 18 | 18 m | Lindsay Main '83 | |
Bridge up steep crack (crux), then jam to top.
| ** Yo-Yo | 21 | 18m | John Howard '79 | |
The striking finger-crack/groove between two columns. Strenuous and sustained. John Allen eliminated the rests.
| * Blue Suede Shoes | 15 | 15m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
A jam crack in the R-facing corner. Step off to the R at the top, or finish up the crack.
| Unicorn | 14 | 8m | John Barnes '79 | |
Short twin jam cracks.
| Taniwha | 16 | 15m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
A distinctive jamcrack with a platform 3m up and an overhanging finish. Start to the R to gain the platform (crux), then up the crack moving L at the top.
The next six climbs are on a small steep cliff with thin cracks. Descent is by abseil from a tree.
| * Sluds | 22 | 10m | John Allen '80 | |
The L-most crack, immediately R of Taniwha.
| * Prodigal Crack | 21 | 10m | John Howard '79 | |
The next crack R. Exit to the R. The climb is made easier by bridging to Blue Madonna.
| * Blue Madonna | 22 | 10m | John Allen '80 | |
The crack L of the corner. Move up, then R and back L. Named after John Howard's car which was more dangerous than any climb.
| Worth The Walk | 22 | 10m | John Allen '80 | |
The corner. Start on the L.
| Science Friction | 23 | 10m | John Allen '80 | |
The twin cracks, the L of which forms a corner. The first half is the hardest.
| Cybernetic Rage | 20 | 12m | John Howard '80 | |
Start on the R and move L to crack on the arete.
| Robert Gordon | 21 | 12m | John Allen '80 | |
The corner with a green stain. Finish L.
The next two climbs are on the small upper wall, starting from a vegetated ledge.
| Velcro Heart | 17 | 20m | Gavin Tweedie '83 | |
Start directly above Blue Madonna. Up a steep ramp to join the crack above its overhang. Past a small bush (crux) and jam to the top.
| Slipstream | 22 | 22m | Lindsay Main '83 | |
Just R of V.H. and directly above R.G.. Up a R-leaning groove, through the bulge, then up crack above (crux).
Back on the main wall...
| Craig's Wall | 22 | 12m | Ton Snelder '83 | |
A bold lead with one bolt. Starts up the R of two cracks, then across to the L crack.
| Straight and Narrow | 14 | 15m | John Howard '78 | |
A jam crack on the vegetated section of the cliff. Start on R side of a column to reach a ledge, then up the crack.
| Dead End | 15 | 15m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The crack to the R of S.&N..
| Garlic | 15 | 10m | John Howard '78 | |
A fist crack which is steep at the bottom and vegetated at the top. Jam up to flake and move L to finish beside the flake and over vegetation.
| Unlimited Edition | 22 | 13m | Ton Snelder '83 | |
Up intermittent cracks L of Easy Chimney with hard moves below the bolt runner.
| Easy Chimney | 8 | 15m | Hugh Logan, Murray Judge '75 | |
The obvious deep chimney in the gully, a suitable descent route for capable climbers.
| Maggie | 19 | 15m | Craig Hamilton '83 | |
Up the hand crack on L of the buttress until it runs out, then to bolt runner and up.
| Iron Man Direct Finish | 22 | 15m | Craig Hamilton '83 | |
Climb the Iron Man crack to a fixed piton, then move L and up to join the bolt on Maggie.
| * Iron Man | 20 | 15m | John Howard '80 | |
Climb the steep thin crack on the R of the buttress until it runs out, then move R (crux) to join another crack.
| * Set Up | 18 | 15m | James Jenkins '80 | |
The L of three steep grooves, overhanging at the top. Enjoyable, sustained climbing.
| La Folie | 21 | 15m | Ton Snelder '83 | |
Up the arete with finger crack R of I.M. and through the small roof, then easier to the top. Bolt and fixed piton.
| Spring of Discontent | 21 | Ton Snelder '83 | |
Short arete R of L.F.. No runners on the arete, but cracks either side can be used.
| Scratchy Crack | 14 | 18m | Hugh Logan '75 | |
The central, heavily vegetated groove. One of the first routes here.
| Crime of the Century | 17 | 35m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The R groove. The first part of the climb, which is poorly protected, is the crux. After about 20m step R and follow the weakness, tending R.
| * Son of Hangman | 17 | 35m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
A classic route. The striking jam crack with a sizable roof at about 10m. Straight up the crack (crux) and through the roof on good holds. When the rock deteriorates, take the line of least resistance.
| *** White Wizard | 22 | 35m | John Howard '79 | |
One of the best lines on the Peninsula - the corner right on the nose of the cliff. Sustained and technical climbing. Bridging and small holds in the corner (crux), with pleasant jamming through and above the overhang.
| ** Thin White Duke | 23 | 35m | John Allen '79 | |
Up the wall and through the large roof on the nose. Start on the R and move up L to the obvious good hold. Follow the groove to a sensational move centrally through the roof.
| Jubilee | 21 | 35m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
The L of two steep crack systems that lead to a ledge at about 10m. Climb the flaring jam crack (crux), moving R after about 5m (a tussock inhibits progress - cleaning would enable the rests to be eliminated). From the ledge climb the crack until necessary to move R into Cripple Crack.
| * Cripple Crack | 19 | 35m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
The R crack system. Technical and gymnastic start. Varied and sustained climbing.
| Staccato | 20 | 33m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
A route up thin cracks. Difficult start. Technical climbing leads to a loose section, which is followed by a tricky exit. Finish in the vegetated gully.
| * Silver Lining | 19 | 20m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
Another steep crack system. A committing start on the L wall to reach the crack, followed by technical climbing. The wide section is easy but poorly protected.
| Spring Fever | 19 | 20m | Marty Beare '79 | |
A groove with a thin crack and roof at about 8m. Hard chimneying to start, and a hard move through the roof from the R. Straightforward finish with another roof.
| Bride in the Bath | 16 | 18m | Henry Mares '77 | |
Just what you've always wanted. A route up steep, vegetated cracks and grooves with loose blocks.
| Aegrotat | 10 | 8m | Rick McGregor '76 | |
A steep slab on the L side of the gully separating the Main Cliff and The Castle. Unprotected.
The Castle
| * The Boston Strangler | 15 | 15m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
A prominent jam crack facing into the gully. Good holds on the outside of the crack.
| Satyr | 14 | 15m | Bryan Dyson '77 | |
Another crack in the gully with outside holds.
| * Guillotine | 16 | 20m | Nick Cradock '75 (one aid point), FFA Murray Judge. | |
A prominent V-corner facing north with a large semi-detached blade. Jam and layback past the blade (crux), then easier jamming to the finish. A classic route marred only by huge loose blocks at the top.
| * Henry Crippen | 18 | 20m | Henry Mares '78 | |
The R of two thin cracks. Technical climbing in the crack followed by an exit to the R over blocks and up the gully. The headwall has been done - little pro. Talk to Joe Arts.
| Son of Sam | 17 | 20m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
A short jam crack with an offwidth crux at the top. Finish up the gully.
| Jack the Ripper | 14 | 20m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
Obscure and slightly contrived. Start up an inconspicuous crack and step R to another crack (crux). Then up the edge above and finish in the gully.
Right Cliff
| Endive | 17 | 8m | Tim Wethey '78 | |
A wall climb with a thin crack at the bottom. Tend R at the start, with the crux move to reach the jugs. Step L onto the ledge and climb the short wall.
| M.C.P. | 14 | 10m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
A steep crack with small holds.
| Earth Mother | 13 | 10m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
A companion route to M.C.P.. The crack on the L wall of the gully. Varied climbing, dirty.
| Lesser Beast | 14 | 10m | Roland Logan '75 | |
The corner.
| Turkish Bath | 15 | 10m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
Another corner. Start on L to gain platform and bridge up the corner - delicate crux at the top with a move to the L.
| Golden Gate | 15 | 25m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The vegetated gully with interesting jamming in the crack above.
| * Genesis | 16 | 20m | Murray Judge/Lindsay Main | |
The prominent NE-facing jam crack. From the ledge up over the bulge (crux). Murray Judge did the crack in '75 and Lindsay Main completed the route in '78.
| Ecclesiastes | 16 | 25m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
A groove with two thin cracks on the buttress. Hardest at the bottom. From the ledge at 20m, move R and finish up an awkward overhanging crack.
| Corinthian | 16 | 25m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The central line in the prominent vegetated corner. Up the corner/crack, struggling over the bushes (crux of the vegetation). At the ledge move L and finish as for Ec. (crux of the rock). Not recommended.
| Deuteronomy | 14 | 25m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
The crack on the R wall of the C. gully. Up to the platform and step R to the crack. Finish R as for Exodus, or try the Ec. finish.
| One Handed Poker | 21 | 15m | Nick Cradock '89 | |
Thin finger and face crack up slight groove. Strenuous but good pro. Finish on ledge and rap off tree.
| Lamentations | 19 | 15m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
An innocent-looking crack on the L wall of the gully. When the crack peters out move R to Exodus or continue up the wall. Finish as for Ex..
| * Exodus | 14 | 25m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The L crack in the corner. Up crack and L onto the ledge. Up over blocks and finish up the R side of the gully.
| Apocalypse | 17 | 22m | Lindsay Main '79 | |
Start as for Ex. and jam up the R crack. Step round the roof to the R and exit in the easy corner above.
| Solomon | 17 | 22m | Henry Mares '78 | |
Start as for A., but move R into the crack on the wall. Beware of loose blocks. Onto ledge, and finish as for A.
| * Zaccharius | 16 | 18m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The shallow groove, with two cracks at the start. Fairly sustained, eases towards the top.
| Titus | 16 | 13m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
A shallow groove with a short steep jam crack. From the platform, over stacked blocks and vegetation.
| Thessolonians | 14 | 13m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Bridge up the broken crack to a platform. Up corner and over blocks above. A pleasant crack above is optional.
The Upper Tier
Work out a descent route before beginning a climb. On the eastern side, to the L of the first major gully, is...
| Nemesis | 14 | 15m | Henry Mares '77 | |
Climb a short wall just L of the buttress, across R and up another wall and thin crack. Finish up a jam crack and L.
| Pandemonium | 19 | 22m | Henry Mares/Lindsay Main | |
The long corner on the prominent buttress. Start up a groove with a matagouri and move R to a ledge and into a corner. Done with a little aid by Henry Mares in '77 and freed by Lindsay Main in '83.
| Wild Oats | 16 | 10m | Henry Mares '77 | |
The second crack to the R of P.. Start from mid-height on the cliff.
| Towering Inferno | 17 | 10m | John Allen '79 | |
The L of two offwidth cracks. Face L first then R.
| The Sting | 18 | 10m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
The R offwidth.
The next two climbs are a long way to the west, on a small buttress just above the highest part of the Main Cliff.
| Identity Crisis | 15 | 6m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
The prominent jam crack.
| Deceptive Bends | 16 | 6m | Lindsay Main '80 | |
Just to the R of I.C.. A wall with a series of high moves on jugs.