Mount Evans
On the northwest flank of Mount Evans are The Gang of Six cliffs. This is a remote area with lots of rock and not many routes done. The rock is compact and a bit sparse on natural pro.
Drive to Purau, carry on 100m along the coast road, and turn R up a drive. Go to the farm house (Gardiner). Alternatively, drive to the pass on the Purau/Port Levy Road (the Monument carpark) and walk along the ridge. Map Ref: N36 923293.
Mao Tse-tung Buttress
| Great Leap Forward | 13 | 10m | Henry Mares '77 |  |
On the L side of the cliff. Start a few feet to the L, swing onto the arete, and round to the crack. Straight up.
| Mao's Eyebrows | 14 | 12m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Just to the R. Gymnastic start. Bulge about 5m up (crux).
| Hot Oil | 18 | John Howard '79 | |
Through a roof, followed by a L-facing corner.
| Revisionism | 13 | 30m | Henry Mares '77 | |
Starting on the L of an obvious gully, through a bulge at 12m to a large platform with tree. Up the gully slightly, then swing L across a slab (crux). Continue on same line.
| Red Guard Gully | 13 | 40m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
Good jamming. Start in a small right-angle corner. Up to the crack and through the roof. From the mid-height ledge take the main crack in the gully.
| * Exiles' Return | 20 | 40m | Lindsay Main '78 | |
Up an overhanging corner to a large roof with a crack leading L. Jam out to the lip (crux). Follow crack to large ledge at mid-height. Continue up thin crack in arete.
| * The Great Proletarian Cultural Revolution | 15 | 40m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
An obvious corner/gully. Excellent but easy climbing to the second bulge (crux). Straight up past trees and another small bulge.
| Baptism | 11 | 12m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Obvious V-corner on the L side of the cliff.
| Dripping Fat | 21 | John Howard '79 | |
Roof and wall climbing.
| Martyr | 16 | 20m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
On R-hand side of the cliff. A L-facing corner to a roof. Swing L into exit corner. Beware of loose blocks on the L.
Mainline Cliff
| Birth | 7 | 10m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Obvious V-corner on the L of the cliff.
| Mainline | 16 | 15m | Henry Mares '77 | |
The obvious jamcrack on the L of the main buttress. Through the bulge (crux).
Chopsticks Cliff
| Longjohns | 20 | Johns Howard & Barnes '79 | |
Handcrack through roof.
| Chopsticks | 13 | 15m | Henry Mares '77 | |
On the R, just L of a break in the cliffline. The L one of the two prominent offwidths.
Horizon Cliff
| Horizon | 12 | 10m | Lindsay Main '77 | |
Obvious weakness on the L side. Crack and large holds to bulge, with a boulder choke at the top.
| Phoenix | 18 | 10m | John Barnes | |
Climb finger crack. Traverse L under roof and hand jam up crack.