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Panama Rock
You can still be a pioneer here. Very few climbers have visited this crag
of the woods. Lindsay Main (who else?) made the first foray in June 1979.
From the Akaroa Summit Road, turn off about 2km east of the Okains Bay
turnoff. Map Ref: N36 134180. Landowner is Miller of Le Bons Bay, ph. 8540.
The climbs listed below follow the weaknesses and are reasonably
protectable. Generally, natural pro would be poor on any new routes.
Loose holds are common - the rock is quite shattered in some places around
the base of the cliff.
On the West Face are the prominent cracks of: Crack 1 (15), and Crack 2 (17)
Anarchy |
11 |
15m |
Lindsay Main (solo) '79 |
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The steep R-facing corner - reasonably protectable. Much bridging, rather
grassy higher up.
Iniquity |
13 |
15m |
Lindsay Main (solo) '79 |
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A scrubby R-facing corner. Up R slab/wall past gorse, then bridge up
deceptively hard corner. Reasonably protectable. Jugs at top.
Artistic License |
12 |
12m |
Lindsay Main (solo) '79 |
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Bridge across two thin cracks which are close together, moving L onto the arete
about halfway up. Easy finish on the arete. Reasonable pro.
On the South Side are:
The Redemptionists |
21 |
45m |
Joe Arts '90 |
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Climb the corner twisting right onto the overhanging wall at the top. Natural
pro and six bolts including top belay bolt.
Centurion |
18 |
40m |
Lindsay Main 27/10/90 |
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Up a slab steepening to a wall. Four-five bolts, natural pro.
Journey to Ixtlan |
17 |
40m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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On the buttress at the R side of the cliff. Start L of toe of buttress.
Good holds for 15m to the horiz. crack (pro). Slightly R and up on jugs.
Where the wa ll steepens move L, up and back R to the exit corner. Sparse
pro.
Mind the Totara |
17 |
20m |
Joe Arts '90 |
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Don't push the bush! Low angled wall. Sparse natural pro.
Addendum |
18 |
20m |
Lindsay Main 27/10/90 |
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Low angled wall, crux at the bottom. One bolt, natural pro.
Original Route |
13 |
28m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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A groove on R side of the cliff. Up small slab to a horizontal crack with
short steep wall above. From the crack step L (crux), then up and R to
start of groove. Sparse pro.
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