Panama Rock


You can still be a pioneer here. Very few climbers have visited this crag of the woods. Lindsay Main (who else?) made the first foray in June 1979. From the Akaroa Summit Road, turn off about 2km east of the Okains Bay turnoff. Map Ref: N36 134180. Landowner is Miller of Le Bons Bay, ph. 8540.

The climbs listed below follow the weaknesses and are reasonably protectable. Generally, natural pro would be poor on any new routes. Loose holds are common - the rock is quite shattered in some places around the base of the cliff.

On the West Face are the prominent cracks of: Crack 1 (15), and Crack 2 (17)

Anarchy 11 15m Lindsay Main (solo) '79 beta

The steep R-facing corner - reasonably protectable. Much bridging, rather grassy higher up.

Iniquity 13 15m Lindsay Main (solo) '79 beta

A scrubby R-facing corner. Up R slab/wall past gorse, then bridge up deceptively hard corner. Reasonably protectable. Jugs at top.

Artistic License 12 12m Lindsay Main (solo) '79 beta

Bridge across two thin cracks which are close together, moving L onto the arete about halfway up. Easy finish on the arete. Reasonable pro.

On the South Side are:

The Redemptionists 21 45m Joe Arts '90 beta

Climb the corner twisting right onto the overhanging wall at the top. Natural pro and six bolts including top belay bolt.

Centurion 18 40m Lindsay Main 27/10/90 beta

Up a slab steepening to a wall. Four-five bolts, natural pro.

Journey to Ixtlan 17 40m Lindsay Main '80 beta

On the buttress at the R side of the cliff. Start L of toe of buttress. Good holds for 15m to the horiz. crack (pro). Slightly R and up on jugs. Where the wa ll steepens move L, up and back R to the exit corner. Sparse pro.

Mind the Totara 17 20m Joe Arts '90 beta

Don't push the bush! Low angled wall. Sparse natural pro.

Addendum 18 20m Lindsay Main 27/10/90 beta

Low angled wall, crux at the bottom. One bolt, natural pro.

Original Route 13 28m Lindsay Main '80 beta

A groove on R side of the cliff. Up small slab to a horizontal crack with short steep wall above. From the crack step L (crux), then up and R to start of groove. Sparse pro.

1