Where:

Near Takaka, in Golden Bay at the NW end of the South Island. Motueka is ~ 50mins drive over the Takaka Hill (Highway 60). From Christchurch ~ 6 hours drive, from Nelson ~ 1.5 hours

Rock:

Limestone - generally vertical to slightly overhanging with some steeper roof routes. Typical range of limestone features from pocks to cracks to flowstone, but characterised by 'interesting' slopers.

"Neptune's Gift" (21) at Tarakohe
Photo: Owen Woolaston

Number of Routes:

approx 240 in Golden Bay as of the beginning of 2000.

Route Grades:

10-15:23
16-20:75
21-25:100
26-30:25

Chris Plant on "African Head Charge" (26)
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Recommended routes:

16: Doolittle, Blobbet
17: Goodbye Cream Poofters, Stairway Of The Gods
18: Ambrosia, Temples Of Stone
19: Gobble Gobble Yum Yum, Bored Of The Rings
20: Hi I'm Doctor Terrific, Loose Unit, Rat Up A Drainpipe
21: Burn Hollywood Burn, Headplant, R For Ranger D For Danger
22: Rawhide, Electricorp Production, Go With The Flow, You're Either Dead Or You're Not
23: Send A Gorilla, Amino Pro, 1080 And The Letter G, Superconductor
24: Daves Arete, Jive Bombing, Dread Carefully
25: Responsible Lunges, Make My Day, Feeling Lucky Punk, Body Nazis
26: African Headcharge, Creative Confusion, Fish On Heat
27: Cloudwalker, Stoned Monkey, Papageno, Smells Like Fish
28: Dancing On A Skewer, Fauvism
30: African Headcharge (direct start)

Bianca Walker on "Goodbye Cream Poofters" (17)
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Equipment:

Predominately sport climbing routes up to 30m but average about 12-15m. Pro required for some routes (usually specified in guide) but you can climb most routes without (if you're willing to run it out a bit). Fixed lower offs / anchors on all routes.

Corrine on "High Voltage" (23)
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Bring:

50-60m 10mm+ rope (60m essential to get down off the longer routes).
12 draws plus light rack of wires and CD's to #3
A carpet square to clean your feet on!

Nick Sutter on "1080 And The Letter G" (23)
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Aspect:

Paynes Ford: West facing. Afternoon sun, some shady areas though.
Tarakohe: North facing.Morning sun no shade.

Seasons:

All year but best in spring and autumn when it's not so hot. In winter you're likely to be almost on your own with good friction during the shorter days but cold nights. Busiest over Xmas and New Year. Routes may be dirty after the winter/spring rains which hinders onsighting. Takaka can have heavy rain, after which is can take a few days for the crags to dry (due to runoff from above).

Approaches: typically 5-15 mins, easy approaches on well maintained tracks.

Ton Snelder on "Body Nazis" (25)
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Other Activities

Surfing, Caving, Mountainbiking, Tramping, Cafes, Raves (eg the Gathering) Swimming holes at the river are brill (as are the riverside boulder probs).

Jochen Lenfert bouldering at the swimming hole
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Accomodation:

Hangdog Camp is just a few metres from the crag just on the R after you cross the Paynes Ford bridge 4km before Takaka. $4 per night camping, shower, toilets and a bunkhouse.The climbers hangout. Just turn up. Run by the Butler family 03 525 9093; hangdog.camp@paradise.net.nz

Chris 'Lizzard' Burtenshaw lights up the night at Hangdog
Photo: Simon Middlemass

Guidebooks: Golden Bay Climbs: Simon Middlemass (all climbs)
Paynes Ford Climbs: Jeremy Butler (climbs to Grade 22)
South Island Climbs: Ivan Vostinar (main crags not Whanganui Inlet).

Other Sources of Info:

Paynes Ford now has it's very own mini-site with route updates and info - visit it at paynesford.blogspot.com