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Summary
Punk Rock is an interesting diversion from the mainstream of rockclimbing society.
This is a small cliff at Sumner, a few miles east of Christchurch. Go here
only after you have exhausted the other crags. The climbs are mostly well defined
jam cracks (exemplified by the classic New Reality Jam Session), but a few
routes have been established on walls and incipient cracks.
How to get there
Sumnervale Drive is at the back of Sumner valley. The cliff is about 100m above
the road end to the west, above Sumnervale Drive (NZMS 260 M36 900363). This is
the only Christchurch cliff served by a city bus, as there is a bus stop near
by. Alternatively, park down by the end of the Captain Thomas Walkway and wander
along this above the houses until you can cut up the hill to the crag. A little
slower, but much less strenuous and less likely to annoy landowners.
Climbing Notes
The crag is sheltered from the westerly winds, and is only sunny in the morning.
It's still prone to being dirty - a problem which could only be alleviated by
major earthworks above the crag. Interesting varied styles of climbing. Top belays
are a bit tricky. Be very careful if the grass is wet.
History
Considered worthless for many years, the cliff was climbed on by John McCallum
and Lindsay Main in early 1979. It received little other attention throughout
most of the mid-80s and 90s, with the exception of one new route by Marcus
Thomas. The exceptionally hot and dry summer of 1997/1998 prompted a new
wave of interest, with several new routes added.
The first four routes are on the long, low section of cliff facing south.
| Drack |
22 |
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Rick McGregor '79 |
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Minor and obscure; undoubtedly not repeated. A thin overhanging crack starting above an
overhang at the left end of the crag, about 20 metres right of the pine tree.
Scramble up low angle rock for five metres to beneath the overhang; pull over and climb the
crack. Difficulty is its only merit.
Fifty metres left of the turn in the crag is a small buttress split on its right
by a crack with a narrow pod.
| Mange Tous |
17 |
|
Alan Hill 97' |
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Start above the hawthorne, step left into the crack and follow it. Perfect jams and CDs.
Twenty metres right are two low overhanging noses with orange lichen and a large roof above.
| God Save The Queen |
16 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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Up between the two noses, traverse left under the roof and finish rightward up groove.
| Changing The Guard |
13 |
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Hamish Reid '97 |
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Up the groove right of the right nose, skirt the large roof on the right, step back left and up.
| Heading For Sydney |
16 |
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Hamish Reid '97 |
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Wide crack on the left end.
| Punk's Not Dead |
22 |
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Marcus Thomas '95 |
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At the left hand end of the main part of the crag. Three bolts.
| Low Profile |
18 |
10m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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The right edge of the prominent red-brown buttress. Over the big blocks
heading right to a ledge on the arete, left and up to a sloping ledge; then climb the
wall above (crux). Adequate pro. Descend by the gully to the left.
| Manipulations |
19 |
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Sefton Priestly '97 |
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Start just left of Devo and and climb through the overhang to the ledge of Low
Profile. Up and rightward along crack, and over bulge to the top.
| DEVO |
14 |
18m |
John McCallum '79 |
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The right-facing chimney on the edge of the buttress. Either finish in a crack
above (14); or traverse left and descend; or exit right via the top crack of AD.
| Arcadian Driftwood |
15 |
18m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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The crack immediately right of Devo. Exit either left as for D (14), or right to
finish up a steep crack (17).
| Phlebotomist |
23 |
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Sefton Priestly '97 |
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A direct line up the centre of the slab right of Arcadian Driftwood, with pro in AD.
Finish anywhere.
| Rhythm 'n' Blues |
20 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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The curving crack, finishing up the steep elbow-shaped crack.
| Voodoo |
19 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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Start at the weakness on an arete. Climb the right wall following jugs up the steep wall to
the right of the groove. Finish up the wall above on small holds.
| Cascade |
14 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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Climb the right-facing corner, moving left around a small bulge.
Above the grassy ledge up a dirty crack.
| Solstice |
16 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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Start as for Cascade, but move into the incipient right crack (wires). Overcome
grass and climb the deceptive crack. From the grassy sloping ledge move right to anchors.
| Punctuation |
23 |
20m |
Ton Snelder '83 |
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slab/wall with one bolt.
| New Wave |
16 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '80 |
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A thin crack up a wall, then over blocks.
| Discombobulation |
21 |
20m |
Alan Hill '99 |
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The groove, roof and crack right of New Wave. Poorly protected.
| Solipsism |
14 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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Up a right-facing corner left of a lichen-covered slab (crux)
and over blocks to steep cracks above.
| * New Reality Jam Session |
20 |
22m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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The obvious left-leaning crack through a bulge. Start either up the wall just left
of the small arete or the thin crack just right of the arete (both 18).
| Questioning Reality |
24 |
22m |
Sefton Priestly '99 |
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a direct finish to NRJS, 4 bolts.
| Claws |
16 |
20m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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A right facing corner with a bulge at the top.
| Vulgate Revamped |
18 |
20m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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Wall and crack to the right. Steep finish on good holds. Details uncertain.
| Anathema |
13 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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The name is a hint. A wall on good holds to a wide crack. Dirty at the top.
| Paragon |
12 |
18m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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An easy angled route following a crack up a buttress. Start at the
lowest point, or move in from the left. Up the crack and step rightward around the bulge,
finishing slightly left.
| Negative Conditioning |
10 |
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Lindsay Main '79 |
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Short right-facing corner with bridging to the right. Hardest at the top
where cleaning is needed.
| Schmeling to the Max |
19 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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The blunt arete, starting from the fallen block on its right side, and past dubious flakes
to the lip of the roof. Committing moves past indifferent pro from small wires.
A harrowing on-sight lead.
| The Great White Hope |
15 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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Climb the right-facing corner below the big roofs and out the left side
on good jams and small footholds. Step across to the arete and climb the top crack.
Belay anchors for these climbs are a long way back in a boulder.
| Don't Look Back |
22 |
15m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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Up the left corner and out the left-leading roof crack on jams. Little for the feet.
| The Truest Sport |
19 |
18m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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Up the right corner and through the roof to the right using the wide crack.
| Sidestep |
11 |
15m |
Lindsay Main '79 |
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Start on the slab just right of TTS and move right up to a thin crack and bulge.
Finish either left up a big exfoliating flake, or up the gully.
| Barbarous Bolters |
20 |
12m |
Dave Shotwell |
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the wall left of Parlance. Bolt pro.
| Parlance |
19 |
12m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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The left of two overhanging thin cracks. Boulder the start and climb the crack.
| Maindrain |
18 |
8m |
James Jenkins '80 |
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The right crack - hard jamming.
| Elbow-bender |
15 |
20m |
James Jenkins '80 |
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An irregular crack over a bulge, then left and up the wall.
| Plantagenet |
14 |
20m |
Rick McGregor '79 |
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The left of two corners. Straightforward climbing with a move to the left at the top (crux).
| Treasury |
14 |
15m |
Hugh Logan '80 |
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The right corner. A broken start, then a short steep crack to the left facing corner (crux).
| Once were Worriers |
17 |
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Alan Hill '97 |
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Climb the obvious crack left of the large clump of ferns.
Continue up the thin right trending crack/groove to a grassy ledge.
Belay or move left to continue up the edge of the buttress.
| Return of the Dinosaurs |
21 |
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Alan Hill '98 |
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Climb to the base of the final crack of ???? Lace with wires (last pro).
Move left on to the steep slab and climb straight up the centre.
| Jiggery Pokery |
21 |
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Alan Hill '98 |
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On the sister crag about 200 metres closer to Sumner is one route only...
| Ray's Route |
14 |
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Ray Button '97 |
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Takes the arete in the centre of the crag on the cleanest rock.
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Punk Rock