Remarkable Dykes


These are two impressive trachyte dykes running up the hillside on the south side of Lyttelton Harbour (Map Ref: M36 847226). They have been climbed on since the '30s, but despite the amount of steep rock, there is not much scope for good climbing. Five good routes, including the classic **Angels' Pavement, are known.

Recommended access is from the Kaituna Valley and Kaituna Saddle. Approaching from McQueens Valley side may earn you the wrath of a Mr Harneiss. All the routes are on the east side of the western dyke.

Fallen Angel 15 22m Stu Allan c'73 beta

Starts at a minor R-facing corner on the L of the wall. Up to a ledge, and steep exit crack with loose blocks.

Deo Volente 14 18m Stu Allan c'73 beta

A vague crack about 3m R. From the ledge continue up the arete.

Avatar 16 18m Graeme Love '83 beta

Climb the wall R of D.V. to a ledge, then up a short wall to join the finish of Angels' Pavement.

** Angels' Pavement 13 40m beta

A classic route up the the main arete of the upper part of the dyke. An almost alpine experience dating back to the '30s. Start from the low point in the upper part of the dyke.

Good Shepherd 12 8m Lindsay Main '77 beta

A direct route up the wall just R of the obvious easy R-facing corner in the middle of the north wall. Steep but with good holds.

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