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Remarkable Dykes
These are two impressive trachyte dykes running up the hillside on the
south side of Lyttelton Harbour (Map Ref: M36 847226). They have been
climbed on since the '30s, but despite the amount of steep rock, there is
not much scope for good climbing. Five good routes, including the classic
**Angels' Pavement, are known.
Recommended access is from the Kaituna
Valley and Kaituna Saddle. Approaching from McQueens Valley side may earn
you the wrath of a Mr Harneiss. All the routes are on the east side of the
western dyke.
Fallen Angel |
15 |
22m |
Stu Allan c'73 |
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Starts at a minor R-facing corner on the L of the wall. Up to a ledge, and
steep exit crack with loose blocks.
Deo Volente |
14 |
18m |
Stu Allan c'73 |
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A vague crack about 3m R. From the ledge continue up the arete.
Avatar |
16 |
18m |
Graeme Love '83 |
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Climb the wall R of D.V. to a ledge, then up a short wall to join the
finish of Angels' Pavement.
** Angels' Pavement |
13 |
40m |
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A classic route up the the main arete of the upper part of the dyke. An
almost alpine experience dating back to the '30s. Start from the low point
in the upper part of the dyke.
Good Shepherd |
12 |
8m |
Lindsay Main '77 |
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A direct route up the wall just R of the obvious easy R-facing corner in
the middle of the north wall. Steep but with good holds.
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