Te Oka
By Tony Burnell
History
Te Oka was overlooked during the development on the Banks Peninsula mistakenly in my opinion (but who asked) apart from a fleeting visit by Phil de Joux and Martin Clarke. Only Phil stayed long enough to record the first route there 'Dark Tower'.In 1997 Alan Monnox introduced Pat Deavoll and Tony Burnell to the crag. That was his first mistake, especially if he was harbouring any secret desire to put up some new routes. During June and July 1997 Pat and Tony set about the development and the cleaning up of the previously bolted but unclimbed projects. After several weeks work, their tally rose to ten routes on the main crag, three of which were Last Night of the Poms, Orbital Smash and Doing it by Degrees. Around the north side of the crag Alan added three traditional routes; hopefully they will have gone the way of all things back to nature.
Situation and Character
The crag overlooks Lake Forsyth and the township of Little River and is in a gloriously sunny location on the side of Te Oka (grid ref 929102) about fifteen minutes from the road and about sixty minutes by car from Christchurch. The rock is obviously volcanic and, as one would expect, has the typical basalt pillar appearance. The rock can feel quite frictionless and, until the routes have had some traffic, there will be the odd loose, dirty hold. In truth, the main crag is steep and offers very little in the way of lower grade climbs, however on the plus side, all the routes are equipped with in situ gear and belays. If the gear isn't enough to tempt you, then the cafe at Little River should be. None of the routes are longer than 25 metres so a standard 50 metre rope is sufficient to lower off from the belays.
Aspect and Climate
Te Oka is not fast-drying and after prolonged rain the seepage takes a long while to disappear, but it has remained climbable for the most part during this exceptional winter. The crag is situated high on the hillside about 500 m above sea level; it is sheltered and has a westerly aspect. The sun finds the crag around lunch time and stays til it sets behind the Southern Alps.
Access
The manager at Kinloch Farm in Little River, Mr John Kayley (ph: 325 1025) has no objection to climbers, however visiting climbers should telephone the farm the evening before the intended visit to ensure access is not a problem. The crag will be closed for lambing from late August to early October. Please respect these wishes and close all gates, light no fires, leave no litter - then we can all enjoy the climbing.From Christchurch, follow the road to Akaroa til you get to Little River. Take the first right turn in Little River crossing the Okana River and bear right up the hill on the Kinloch Road. At the top of the hill rum right at the tee junction on the shingle road, bear right at the next junction and park on the left opposite a sheep yard.
Go through the gate and across the sheep yard to a second gate that leads on to the fellside. From the second gate a vague 4WD track heads off to the right. Follow this track up the hill til it makes an obvious left turn towards the trig point on the summit of Te Oka. Leave the track at this point and carry on up the open fellside onto the saddle mid-way between the trig point and a rocky knoll. Turn right and carry on passing the rocky knoll on its left, continuing down the ridge. After about a hundred metres turn towards Lake Forsyth and work your way down between the small bluffs. If you get it right there are only two short awkward steps. You should be able to see a large totara tree - make for this. Once you arrive at the tree you are directly above the centre of the crag. Turn left when looking over the lake and follow the track along the top of the crag, descending to come back along to the crag.
| Grumble and Grunt | 23 | Tony Burnell |  |
The first route on the crag, there is a hanging groove-come-chimney that stars off a ledge at 3.5 m. Gain a standing position on the ledge below an overhanging chimney that is formed by the columns, start using undercuts on the right that enable you to get up into the chimney and climb it with difficulty. Exit the chimney slightly right to gain a standing position on a ledge. Move up to the bulging roof above and surmount this on good holds and a chain belay on the wall above. 5 bolts.
| Doing it by Degrees | 25 | Tony Burnell | |
To the left of the previous route is a steepening black rib that fans out into a wall. Start on the left side of a black rib. Gain the rib from the left initially, move round to the right hand side and continue up the rib on layaway holds until it's possible to swing out leftwards onto the face proper. Climb the face on small positive holds to a good layaway hold, an awkward move past the bolt leads to more good holds, then you can effect a landing on to the not so welcoming ledge using rounded holds. Climb up the steep rightward trending crack to good holds, then move over to the chain belay of Grumble and Grunt. 6 bolts.
| Last Night of the Poms | 25 | Pat Deavoll | |
The Martin Clarke project subsequently climbed by Pat Deavoll, the route takes the left arete formed by the second obvious groove-come-chimney. Start in the groove and use it to make as much height as possible before you're forced out left onto the arete proper. Continue the steep wall with what feels like a long run-out to get to the fourth bolt. Hard moves past the fourth bolt lead to a ledge, another bolt and somewhere to stand before you go off in search of the belay. Incidentally the belay is just over the rounded strenuous roof above your head. 5 bolts.
| Orbital Smash | 25 | Pat Deavoll | |
Moving left, the next obvious feature is a recessed white wall bounded on its right by a steep corner and capped by a bulging roof. Climb the groove, an effort in itself, but there is a good rest at the fourth bolt. Continue up the hanging arete until your way is barred by the roof, which is avoided by moving right and finishing as for Last Night of the Poms. 6 bolts.
| 4th Rock from the Sun | 25 | |
Start up the groove as for Orbital Smash to the resting hold. Commit yourself out left onto the wall and move up to a bolt. Small friable holds on the steep wall lead to a hanging wedge shaped groove; lay back strenuously up to good holds in the horizontal break. Traverse rightward and up round the corner and pull into a steep groove, move right again to the same of Last Night of the Poms. 7 bolts.
| Paranoid Android | Pat Deavoll '97 | |
the corner and hanging groove. 5 bolts, hanging belay.
| Un-named | 24 | Tony Burnell '97 | |
the arete/bulge/groove to the left of Mars Attacks. 6 bolts.
| Mars Attacks | 23 | Pat Deavoll | |
Takes the obvious crack line at the left side of the white wall (the first bolt is missing). Start to the right of the crack in a subsidiary crack, move back left at what would be the second bolt. Climb the crack with difficulty, mainly because the crack's no use. A sort of rest can be taken at the roof before you finish up the hanging groove round the left side of the roof. 6 bolts.
In the centre of the crag is a brown wall capped by a large roof at five meters and on the path is a large boulder with an old bolt sleeve in it.
| Wanderlust | 22 | Tony Burnell | |
The first route of the Renaissance,bolted and climbed in a day. Start about one metre right of the boulder on the track below the long groove with bolts in its left wall. The route takes the line of least resistance up the centre of the cliff trending left. Climb the groove past three bolts to a point where you are forced onto the left wall; move up the wall on reasonable holds until you can quit the groove round to the left to gain a standing position on a bulge, bolt runner. Move left again and up to the roof, bolt runner, then swing left through the bulge into an easy-angled groove. Move up, then out right to gain the exposed rib past another bolt to a chain belay. 8 bolts.
| Little Big Top | 23 | Tony Burnell | |
Start as for Wanderlust, up the groove and move left round the face onto the sloping ledge. Above you and slightly right under the roof to poor undercuts and layaways; above is a hanging crack come lay back with a good edge. Make some powerful moves round the bulge onto good incut holds. Pull up into the corner groove above, follow the groove past two bolt runners til you can move out left to the belay of Wanderlust. 8 bolts.
| French Connection | 24 | Pat Deavoll | |
The old unclimbed Phil de Joux line towards the left side of the crag, climbed and extended to the top of the crag. Start easily off the ground into a groove/corner. Climb past two bolts before moving out right on small holds to gain a sloping edge on the left and a good hold on the right, up again to good holds and the third bolt. Continue easily up the bulging wall via a crack on the left and onto the half way ledge. Move left and up the steepening wall on reasonable holds to the last and hidden blot before gaining the hanging corner and a chain belay. 7 bolts.
| Dark Tower | 23 | Phil de Joux | |
The first route recorded on the crag (1994). An inverted wedge shaped wall, steeper than it looks, with a crack on its right and a ledge out right level with the third bolt. Climb the wall using the weakness on the right where possible. Take a rest on the ledge before committing yourself out onto the face and up on small dirty holds and try to stand up and reach the belay. 3 bolts.
The next three routes are reached by contouring round left to the very end of the crag. There is a ledge at six metres.
| Child's Play | 18 | |
Start on the ledge and surmount the bulge above using the prominent, jagged crack. Dubious holds, dubious gear. No bolts, in situ rap sling.
| Supernatural | 21 | Alan Hill | |
Start five metres right of Child's Play below a groove with a small shrub. Climb the groove to a V-corner capped with some jammed blocks. Surmount the roof on the left and continue straight up. No bolts, no belay.
| Tongan Groove | 18 | Alan Hill | |
Start six metres right of Supernatural and climb the left-facing corner. Climb the cornerand step right, continue up over the bulge to exit up easier ground on the right. No bolts, no belay.