No Nirvanas
since a block fell off the arete the route has
got somewhat easier, however still more rock
is falling off, plus there's a lot of loose choss
in the exit crack so watch out.
Gumbo
Those loose blocks at the top are getting really wobbly, treat
with extreme respect.
Future Legend
There is a good #1 nut placement to protect the lower
crux - can be tricky to place and clean, but higher and better
than the cam placements.
Make sure you've got a #3 cam for the big crack at the back of the roof
You can place a very small cam (#1 TCU) or small nut out beyond
the remains of the fixed peg on the roof to protect the top moves, rather
than face a large pendulum back into the groove.
Rather than traversing out low on the good foothold, it's
possible to climb the roof directly, probably about grade 22.
Hotlegs
One of the more relaxed 17s around, once you're thru the roof it's all over.
There are good wire and cam placements just thru the roof - probably more
useful than the traditional #3 cam underneath it.
Mirage
It's now possible to clip the 2nd bolt on Colatteral Damage for
additional pro as well as the traditional high runner in Hotlegs (as long
as you're using double ropes that is). However, you're still looking at a decent size
fall - make sure you clip the peg under the roof (halfway out). You can also clip
the top bolt on CD - but that's not 'til after the crux. Good wires and cams
after that, but it's fairly easy climbing.
Collateral Damage
You can place gear before the first bolt. The shorter you are the
harder it is both to clip the first bolt and and to pull the
crux move over the rooflet directly above it. Once established on the arete
it's not so bad - only 19/20 jug pulling.
Gargantua
Starting directly up isn't really any harder than traversing in, though protecting
the direct start is somewhat tricky.
Exposition
RPs are your best bet for pro as you move up the flaky
wall out of Gargantua, little gear otherwise lest you thread thin tape around
the more substantial flakes. Thankfully where the route steepens at the top
you can get in some good gear (mid size nut or small cam).
Porno
the hard and gymnastic direct start goes somewhere around grade 22, but with no pro.
You can also finish direct up a vague pillar between Exposition and Jambilicus. A
good route, but a very serious proposition on lead.
Jambilicus
direct start goes at about grade 18 (no pro though).
Great Notion
not particularly technical (probably about grade 17), but
very poor pro makes this a real head-trip.