Waitati Crags
From Dunedin follow the northern motorway over the hills to Waitati, turn onto the road to Doctors Point and follow this to its end at the car park on the beach and take a short walk along the sand to the lower cliffs. Two natural arches are passable except at high tide, beyond this are some higher cliffs
The Railway Cutting
The railway line traverses around the hill 75 metres above the beach, climb up the grassy slope above the carpark and walk east along the line to the old railway cutting (now bypassed by a tunnel). An alternative way is to drive up White Road, park at the railway crossing and walk along the tracks to the tunnel, about five minutes longer. Keep a careful watch for trains, particularly when it is windy as they are difficult to hear, and stay out of the tunnel at all times.From the Purakanui crag road-end walk down to the beach and up the track which starts at the old Maori Pa site on the peninsula, follow the railway tracks west to the tunnel and through the cutting to the cliffs.
This crag of quarried volcanic rock has several short but interesting routes. Mainly bolt protected with a few nut and cam placements, all climbs have abseil points.
| Teletubbies | 19 | Murray Judge Aug 98 |  |
| Loony Tunes | 21 | Matt Squires Aug 98 | |
| Couch Potato | 19 | Murray Judge Aug 98 | |
| Lounge Lizard | 19 | Murray Judge Aug 98 | |
| Direct start to LL | 17 | Joss Alexander Aug 98 | |
| The Days of Steam | 20 | Tom Riley Feb 99 | |
| Blueskin Bay | 16 | John Hamilton Aug 98 | |
| Whistle Stop | 19 | Murray Judge Feb 99 | |
| The Light At The End Of The Tunnel | 17 | Murray Judge Oct 98 | |
| Saskatoon | 18 | Matt Squires Aug 98 | |
| Babe Watch | 20 | Ashley Pickworth Aug 98 | |
| Cam Overkill | 18 | Ashley Pickworth Aug 98 | |
| Manic Motorbike Muncher | 15 | Matt Squires Aug 98 | |
all natural gear
| Hole in the Wall | 15 | Murray Judge July 98 | |
| Escalator | 16 | Sam Brooks Aug 98 | |
| On The Tracks | 16 | Murray Judge Dec 98 | |
| Main Trunk Line | 16 | Sam Brooks Nov 98 | |
| Teflon President | 16 | Matt Squires Aug 98 | |
| Tunnel-Web Terror | 15 | Ashley Pickworth Aug 98 | |
| Erotic Vulture | 19 | Matt Squires Aug 98 | |
Below the Terrac
| The Underdog | 19, 20 | Murray Judge, Tom Riley Feb 99 | |
abseil from the first pair of ring bolts 45m to a grassy slope and more ring bolts, pitch one has 10 bolts to the belay, pitch two six bolts and other gear to the top. (also gives a good two abseils to the beach).
| un-named | 17 | Matt Squires | |
abseil down from the thin pine tree to bolt belay.
Lower Cliffs
| Calypso | 23 | Tony Pine July 98 | |
5 bolts to belay
| Nervous Wreak | 16 | Murray Judge June 98 | |
| un-named | 21,16 | Matt Squires Oct 98 | |
pitch 2 added by Murray Judge
| Black Slab | 16,?? | Murray Judge June 98 | |
5 bolts to belay. Pitch two, 3 bolts directly above the belay to abseil point up and left, not yet climbed.
| Hot And Spicy | 20 | Murray Judge | |
Cliffs beyond the arches
| un-named | 14, 20 | Dave Brash Aug 98 | |
| Limpet | 19 | Murray Judge | |