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Climbing on unusual and solid rock in a hidden, peaceful corner of Lyttleton.
The wall has a NW aspect which is sunny all year and dries quickly.
How To get there
From the tunnel, turn left into Norwich Quay, then third
street on the left, second on right and left into St David Street. Continue
straight up the hill into Brenchley Rd. Peark clear of the road 50m before
the pine trees. Walk past the trees through a gate and follow the track between
stone walls up the valley past the caves. Where the track trifurcates take
the right hand track and climb gradually across to the left hand
edge of the wall (10 minutes walk).
The DoC land is leased by Pip Forer, phone 328-8835. Don't take your dog.
Most routes take natural protection, though
some routes have hangered bolts as well. Take a tape loop for the anchors.
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| MEC | More than Ewes Can Chew | JS | Jellied Squeals |
| S | Skylark | OUP | Once Upon a Planet |
| N | Nettle | SO | School's Out |
| FC | Fiction Climb | CYF | Cross Your Fingers |
| BOG | Blaze of Glory | K3 | K3 |
| CWP | Climb without a postcard | FDB | Fish Don't Need Bicycles |
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| More Than Ewes Can Chew |
16 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Left side of block, then move right and into scoop to graze the bush.
| Skylark |
17 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Groove/crack beginning on right side of the slab.
| Nettle |
18 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Traverse left to clip the bolt and left up the ledges. Clip the
other bolt and boldly climb the right side of the block. Nice moves
at top.
| Fiction Climb |
17 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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As for Nettle to the 2nd bolt, then ove right to the arête. Clip the last
bolt and traverse over the arête.
| Blaze Of Glory |
18 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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The crack which becomes a corner. Don't wimp out right to
the bush.
| Climb Without A Postcard |
16 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Twin cracks straight up past bolt and bush.
| Jellied Squeals |
19 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Crack line up into smooth scoop. Be brave!
| Once Upon A Planet |
19 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Up and left to clip the bolt. Straight up the wall past the rabbit
hole, control knob and two more bolts. Then exit right over arête.
Take a #3 friend. Direct finish (20) from the top bolt - slap your
way up the face to the open.
| School's Out! |
15 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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The corner on the edge of the third summit.
| Cross Your Fingers |
19 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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Bridge up the left edge of the cave to the arête. Clip the bolt and
climb the wall.
| K3 |
18 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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From right edge of cave climb left treating rock with care. Traverse under
small wall and climb straight up crack/groove past the seat. Nice moves
at top, save a #2 friend for the seat.
| Fish Don't Need Bicycles |
18 |
Neil Sloane '92 |
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From the base of black crack, layback the arête until standing on it.
Place the #4 friend and then move right onto face.
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The Wunderbar Wall