July 7th....Lassen
Volcanic National Park
.....Thanks to the advice of a British couple we chanced to meet
at Crater Lake, we divert from our original plans and head south to Lassen
Volcanic National Park. On our journey we pass beautiful Mt. Shasta and
the Shasta lake alive with summer activity and the biggest collection of
houseboats this side of Sicamous.......We turned east at Redding and arrived
in Lassen Park around 5pm.
In contrast to the heat of the plains, the cool forest was pleasantly
refreshing. We decided to buy a season's National Park pass as we'd be
in and out of them all over the country for the next month...they are well
worth the $50.00...(Yosemite alone costs $20 just for a visit). We had
a choice of several great camp spots in amongst the pines, many more tenters
and fewer RVs for the first time in a week! We had our first encounter
with a bear-box (food locker)...but the Rangers said there were no camp-bears
in the area. After dinner we went for a stroll through the woods...and
consequently got lost......it was very quiet, and the hush was a little
eerie after the busy traffic of the I5.....we were soon back on track and
found our way down to Lake Manzanita for twilight shadows on
the water....truly magic!! We toasted marshmallows...not that the boys
are fond of them but they do like a good camp-fire!! We watched the stars
come out and the temp. dropped way down low.
July 8th....
..........Rise and shine to the sound of Stellars....but we called
them Bluejays...and damned if they would sit still for a photo.Vibrant
blue wings......Lots of condensation on the tent so we waited for the sun
to dry it off a little. Had a lovely exploration around Lake Manzanita
and watched people canoeing and the anglers bobbing about in their
tiny flotation "boats" no bigger than a kids dinghy...you sit in them with
your feet dangling in the water(in waders of course)..they looked just
too comfortable. Fishing here is "catch and release" and anglers are not
allowed to use barbed hooks...just send 'em back to get bigger.....its
all in the way you play the game.....
Around midday we headed off to Lake Tahoe......but thats another
story.
July 10th....
.....After Tahoe we jump back to California and resume our camping
trip. This time we're headed down the 395. Once again the landscape turns
semi-arid, and what seem like valley floors are quite high elevations.
We pass through a little town of Bridgeport having a peaceful demonstration
to try and save their bank...we stop just outside town at a tiny antique-come-junk
shop with some real treasures inside...one man's trash, I guess. We stopped
soon after at Mono lake, a favourite spot of Mark Twain. The lake has many
feeder streams but no outlets except evaporation, consequently the salt
content is very high; something that the birdlife flourishes on, as they
were abundant in numbers and species....its a very important migration
route (an aviarist's paradise)The lake also has some great "coral" formations
and a wonderful interpretive centre and observatory.
A little while later back on the track we were at 9,945 feet
going over Tioga Pass and into Yosemite
National ParkThis
is Half-dome...one look and I was sufficiently impressed. We arrived mid-afternoon
at Tuolumne (Too-wol-me)Meadows where Richard had fortunately made a booking.
The place was full to over-flowing and many campers were turned away. As
we were allocated our spot we spied the eye-popping photos of the car that
had been opened like a sardine can by a bear. It had gripped the top of
the car-door and bent back the entire frame, glass and all and eaten the
head-rest off the seat.......the Ranger proceeded to inform us that its
a good idea to lock away all traces of food-stuffs in the bear-lockers,
including toothpaste, gum, and even sunscreen......and when your eating
please don't turn your back.....(to what?).....by the time we had finished
there wasn't a crumb left in the van.
We popped into the Visitors Centre and tourist shops at the meadow,
saw some deer browsing in the fields and marvelled at the wildflowers alongside
the road that appear to be the hand of a landscape gardener, so vibrant
and diverse.After
dinner we trekked up to the communal camp-fire to hear a Ranger tell some
lovely folk-lore stories...some native,some European. We sang a few songs
(and laughed a lot) and watched the moon come up over the forest canopy.
Soon after going to bed, but thankfully after the boys were snoring, neighbouring
campers began shouting and banging on pots, signalling a bear in the camp......there
was so much noise til around 10.30 its a wonder a bear wanted to come anywhere
near the place......hence, one nervous, sleepless night. The
boys played with Kelsey from a near-by camp, until we had packed up and
had breaakfast. We drove down to the Village which was very dusty, hot
and crowded with tour buses and of course, tourists..like us....We had
lovely views of El Capitan, Bridalveil Falls and Half-dome. We stopped
at theMariposa
Sequoia Grove for a peek at the giants.....We take the 41
to Fresno then the 99 to Visalia where we stop at a KOA camp ground....the
kids enjoy the pool...we enjoy a steak on the barbeque and a great nights
sleep.
Next day we're off to L.A....get a kids-eye view of that adventurehere.
July 26th....
......We followed the coast road through L.A.....Newport was
very pretty...but the rest of the drive was fairly heavy traffic, with
the none-too-delightful landscape of oilrigs and factories lined up along
Long Beach. The Santa Monica Pier was in carnival mood with rollercoasters
and side-show alleys right on the beach. We passed through Malibu, Rincon
and Santa Barbara, stopping at El Capitan for the night. The kids had a
swim at the beach while we rested and watched the dolphins and pelicans
off shore. Our camp-site was entertaining, with our neighbours having a
computer-generated slide-show after dark set up in the back of a truck.
It was a record of all their reunions of various campgrounds for the past
14 years!! Aunts,Uncles,Grandpas and Grandmas and all the kids were there...they
came from all over Western America every two years to get together for
the holidays...consequently they took up a dozen camp-spots and erected
a "mess-hall" complete with flourescent lights....my favourite image is
of Grandpa sitting back in his rocker-recliner they'd brought from the
living room back at home...what a hoot!!
July 27th...
.......Gorgeous morning...we stop at the little town of Solvang,
which is very nearly completely a Danish community, every last shop and
house in the main district. It was very quaint. We spent a delightful morning
on a bicycle built for four, touring around the various little streets.
We stayed for a picnic lunch in the park and met some folk from La Canada
in L.A., whose kids just happen to go to the same school as some friends
we had met on our L.A. connection...(even though L.A. has the same population
as the entire Australian continent, this was bound to happen sooner or
later, wouldn't you agree?No?Okay, we'll just call it a freaky coincidence...)
We arrive at Arroyo Grande mid-afternoon, just in time for a
cuppa with Ginnie. We watched the hummingbirds dive-bomb each other out
the back-door, make aquaintance with two shy,pampered felines...and then
the boys discover there are two boys next-door with two dogs with a garage
full of toys...Nathan thinks thats even better than ice-cream. But Hayden
reluctantly accompanies us on a walk downtown on the promise of achoc cone
and a cool swinging bridge. Ginnie, (God bless her) fixes dinner while
Richard and I escape childless, down to Pismo Beach for a quick stroll
on the pier and along the shops. We return and "coax" the boys from Sandy's
house to join us for a delicious pasta and salad that Ginnie has prepared.The
boys finish the movie they were watching then drift easily off to dreamland.
We say our 'goodbyes'....thanks again Ginnie for a wonderful
visit.......
July 28th....
.......We encounter our first real fog on the coast as we drive
through San Louis Obispo. We stop at San Simeon and I take a tour of the
famous Hearst Castle whilst
Richard takes the boys beach-combing and seal watching. After the tour,
we only drive a short distance before we stop to watch giant elephant seals
basking on the beach not one hundred yards from where we stood. The Big
Sur coastline is quite rugged, yet majestic. A Shinook helicopter passed
overhead at one stage to fill a water tank from the ocean, presumably for
some nearby spot fires that were burning brush on the hill.
We drove on to Carmel-By-The-Sea with its beautiful homes perched
on the cliff-edges. Our camp for the night is at Monterey, but already
the fog has rolled in obscuring the view. The boys make friends once again
and stay out playing in the eerie twilight fog.
July 29th....
......Next morning we take a stroll down famous Cannery Row to
the aquarium. Great hands-on display for kids with interactive ocean games...it
was lots of fun. We saw the otters being fed in the huge tanks then watched
over the wharf at the playful frolicking of the wild ones and their sea
lion companions. For golf enthusiasts, this is the home of Pebble Beach.....a
rather exclusive little course just out of town.......
The fog lifts and we drive to Santa Cruz...very busy...Saturday
night....dozens of surfers in the not so big swell, lots of kelp, not very
inviting. We stay at "Bob's" camp-ground for the night...the boys pick
blackberries we eat later on our pancakes...mmmmm. The kids find more kids
as usual and play until torch-light.
July 30th....
.......Scrambled eggs and hash browns for brekkie....head up
the coast, Richard spies a silver fox dart across the road. The road to
San Fransisco is quiet, but gets busier towards the bridge...beautiful
day, but fog rolling just over the bridge and nicely obscuring that famous
view. Kids were excited about crossing the "George of the Jungle" bridge......
Drive down into Muir Woods and thankful for the cooling air.
The Redwoods are absolutely stunning, and this was only our first taste...only
professional photographers can really capture their grandeur and even then,
its nothing like actually being there...take a peek.
We pass the pretty town of Stinson Beach then find a beautiful
camp ground at Olema near Point Reyes.
July 31st....
........Glorious sunshine...the boys are in the playground all
morning...chattering Stellars everywhere. Blackberry and banana pancakes
for breakfast and we leave around 10am and join the 101 at Petaluma (a
nostalgic little town with fantastic mid-19th Century architecture). Make
several stops and the temp. must be over 40C without a doubt...do some
wine-tasting at Jesop Vineyard mainly to get respite in the air-conditioned
foyer.(oh, and the Chardonnay was pretty good too)...the 101 has dozens
of great wineries, from the boutique to the major exporters(its adjacent
to Napa Valley). We stopped for lunch at a beautiful park in Ukiah....it
was tempting to stay in the cool shade of the redwoods and take a nap on
the carpet of thick lawn...however.......
Onward and ever northward, we take a break near Levitt, drive
through an amazing 2,500 year old redwood tree and visit an even bigger
tree that has a shop inside it. This giant tree(they claim) was burnt hollow
in a forest fire three hundred years ago but is alive and healthy and supposedly
approaching its 4000th birthday....whether or not that's really accurate,
is beside the point...to touch something living and breathing, that has
been living and breathing well B.C........leaves one in awe.
We camp at Benbow State Park for the night, not many neighbours
(except for the ex-Sydney-pat and his family from San Fransisco)...the
kids take turns locking each other in the bear-box for entertainment....next
morning the boys and I wander down to the river for a swim in the crystal
clear waters....(honestly, okay...I didn't swim...but those two would swim
in a fish bowl)...father was on washing-up duty...he had the help of an
inquisitive squirrel. We vacated the park just as they were expecting a
full house for, of all things, a Reggae weekend!!)
Aug 1st....
........We drive 30 miles along The Avenue of the Giants...sorry,
at a loss for words here.....then we're back on the 101 for supplies in
Eureka and lunch on the Marina. Humboldt Bay is shrouded in fog...head
off to Klamath and book into an RV park(not our first choice, or our second,
but all the State Parks are booked out). Very quiet, few kids.....kestrels
and eagles hover over the forest canopy catching supper....this is one
of the best places in the country for steelhead and salmon...the mist inevitably
rolls up the Klamath River mouth...they electrify the garbage bins after
9pm to deter bears from raiding the fish heads...a practice that fortunately
hasn't caught on in the State and National Parks.