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Khan-Tengri 7010m, 21 days. Pobeda peak 7439m, 26 days.
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The ITMC helds mountaineering programme whithin Kirghiz part of Tien-Shan and Pamir. 
Western part of Kunlun mountain of China. There are in Kirghizstan some areas constitute interest for mountaineering activity. These are Central Tien-Shan, Kirghiz Range, Terskey Range, Turkestan Range, Zaalai Range, Alai Range, Western Kokshaaltoo Range, Akshirak and Kuilu Ranges.
    CENTRAL TIEN-SHAN
The knot of the massive ranges Kokshaal-Too Meridionalni, Saridjaski, Tengri-Tag, Inilchekski and Kaindy has the name Mustag (The Ice Mountain).The climate is sharply continental, dry and rigorous. The summer is short, average temperature of about 7 centigrade. The region is called "The Arctic of Kirghizstan", though Central Tien-Shan is situated in the same latitude as the Mediterranean Sea. The glaciers falling from Mustag to the west, make full rivers Sari-Dzhas turns to the south and through the deep canyon flows to China to the Tarim valley. Inylchek glacier is a great ice river 62 km long. The most northern, most difficult ascent in the world is the seven-thousander Pobeda peak (7439 m) which rises above the left tributary of Inylchek glacier-Zvyozdochka glacier. Opposite in the Tengri-Tag range the marmoreal pyramid of one of most beautiful summits on the earth Khan-Tengri peak (6993) rises as if it soars in the sky.Gletcher

Season: the 20 of June - the 10 of September.
Scheme of arrival.
 

  • -Arrival in Almaty or in Bishkek; 
  • -bus transfer Bishkek - Issyk - Kyl lake (Karakol town); 
  • - bus transfer over the Chon - Ashu pass (3822m) to the base "Maida-Adyr" which is located at the Inilchek river at the altitude of 2540m; helicopter flight (30 min) to the base camp "Inilcheck" which is located at the altitude of 4000 m near the Khan-Tengry and Pobeda peaks. 
Conditions.
Members carry out ascents and choose tactic for the ascent them-selves. They have their own outfit which is necessary for ascent.
Service.
All transfers from Karakol to the base camp and back, accommodation in hotels, bases and base camp, route consultations, radio connection,full board, all formality.
Service for extra payment:
Arranging of transfer from Almaty or Bishkek to Karakol, helicopter flight from the Issyk - Kul lake to "Maida-Adyr”, helicopter show-flight over the peaks, helicopter transfer to the beginning of a route, carrying by helicopter of load to the route, accompaniment by guides, helicopter flights to the lower camp for rest and other services.
Note: all necessary food (bread, butter, sugar and others) is provided by our organisation, but it is desirable to have special high-altitude food.
Size of the group is not limited
     Khan-Tengri peak.
An ascent possible carry out from South Inilchek and from North Inilchek. South variant starts from the base camp , North variant from North camp.After the first ascent in 1931 (M.Pogrebezki), climbers have used more than 10 difficult routes from all four sides. But not all new routes have been exhausted yet. The program includes an ascent on the classical, safest route - on the west edge from the Semenovski glacier. The necessary help will be given to those who has any difficulty.Khan-Tengri, 6995 m.

The usual tactics which is used on the classical route from South:

- 6 km crossing of the South Inilchek glacier, ascending 200 m to " Shubin's stop " bivouac (4300 m);

- along the narrow and steep Semenovski glacier you should ascend to the upper mould and at the altitude of 5800 m under the west column pitch camp 1. After 2 nights and 6200-6500 m ascent you should descend

to the base camp. After the rest day are 1-2 days of ascent to the camp 1 with the new baggage for high altitude camps. It is necessary to start early in the morning in order to avoid avalanches that are more probable in the middle of day;

- reach the altitude of 6300-6400 m and pitch camp 2;

- ascend 300 m and pitch camp 3 under the summit at the altitude of 6700 m;

- during the day you should reach the summit and descend to the camp 3. The way from the

seds goes on rocks with good ledges and on snow and ice fields. It is recommendate to hang up the fixed roups on the most dangerous places (about 280 m);

- descend to the camp 2 and then to the camp 1;

- descend to the base camp.

    Pobeda peak.
The best time is from 25th of July till 25th of August. This mountain is covered with great amounts of ice and its slopes are covered with snow. Strong winds challenge mountaineers and raise snowstorm even in good weather. Experienced mountaineers affirm that the ascent of Pobeda Peak can be compared with the conquest of Himalaya's peaks. The most difficult routes lie on the northern side of Pobeda, but the ascents usually are accomplished on the centre of the northern slope and along the most safe way - over West Pobeda from the Diky pass. "ITMC Tien-Shan" offers the "west-version" for the clients:

- approach (15 km) the northern wall from the base camp "Inylchek" along the Zvjozdochka glacier;

- ascend along the icefall to the Diky pass (5200 m);

- ascend along the northern edge of West Pobeda (6918 m);- traverse of the western crest 4 km at the altitude 7000 m;

- descend back.

The program can be changed by the "ITMC Tien-Shan" if the group wishes. The ascent tactics can vary according to the experience of members and conditions of the ascent.
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© ITMC Tien Shan
1-a, Molodaia Gvardia St., Bishkek, Kyrgyz Republic, 720010, CIS
tel: + 996 312 651221; 651404 fax: + 996 312 650747
itmc@elcat.kg
www.geocities.com/Pipeline/Slope/6009/
www.geocities.com/tienshan.geo/
itmc.extremezone.ru

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