As soon as you and your bunny arrive home from a shelter or pet store, gently place him in the cage you have prepared and then leave the bunny alone. Your new companion needs time to rest and familiarize himself with his new surroundings. Let your bunny spend a full two or three days alone to establish a new territory. Keep your new pet well supplied with fresh food and water, and if he is using a litter pan, clean it periodically. Spend time in quiet activities nearby and speak gently to your rabbit letting him get to know the sound of your voice.
A gradual approach will ease the introduction of a rabbit into a home with established pets. Some animals are more possessive of their territory than others. Consider your existing pet’s temperament before deciding to adopt a new bunny. Any introduction should be done gradually, starting with your rabbit safely in a cage, and progressing as your established pet appears to accept a newcomer. Always watch your pets very carefully for any sign of hostility, and be sure your rabbit can retreat to the security of his cage if he feels threatened. Be sure to spend a lot of time with your existing companion animal to minimize any problem with jealousy.
Litter Training
By nature, rabbits are fastidious animals; they are also creatures of habits. Both traits are helpful in training them to use a litter box.
The cage you selected for your rabbit should provide enough room to accommodate a litter box, or at least give your pet a bathroom corner not too near his preferred sleeping spot. You will usually find that once he has established a toilet area, he will continue to use it as long as it is cleaned regularly.
When establishing the ground rules for your bunny’s training, do not rush to expect too much immediately. Once your bunny has had several days to get used to his cage, allow him the freedom of one room. If at all possible, put a litter box outside your bunny’s cage. You may find that he is more comfortable with this arrangement, and will wait until he is released from his cage to do his business. If your bunny starts soiling the floors, pick him up gently and firmly say “No!”. Then place him back in his litter box. Putting some of his stool in the litter box may also help. If your bunny uses the box, do not hesitate to praise him. Never, under any circumstances, resort to any discipline harder than a firm “No!” and, when necessary, putting him back in his cage.
Chewing
Perhaps one of the hardest behaviours to deal with is a rabbit’s natural tendency to chew. This is a very natural behaviour. Because a rabbit’s teeth continue to grow throughout his life, it is essential that he have a good supply of materials on which to wear them down. By keeping your rabbit well supplied with hay, you will help to minimize unacceptable chewing on other household items. It is a good idea to have a few small branches or a block of wood for him to chew, but make sure any wood you use is untreated and contains no pesticide residue.
On occasion, your rabbit will still choose to attack the chairs instead of his chew sticks. Again, say “No!” to him in a firm, not loud, voice. If he persists, pick him up while saying the “No!” command and place him gently in his cage. Eventually, he should get the message!
It is surprising and very sad how often a rabbit who has been brought to the Shelter turns out to be a wonderfully bright, responsible animal. Usually all that is needed is consistent, gentle handling and a measure of compassion. The time spent with your bunny, getting to know him on his own terms and appreciate his on unique personality, will pay off in a more contented, rewarding companion.
Accomodation
There are several very good books on rabbit care available and they will give you an idea of the options available for housing your rabbit. Important considerations are size and location, security and ease of cleaning. The cage should, of course, be made of sturdy, non-toxic materials.
When selecting accommodation for your rabbit, be careful not to purchase a cage that he will quickly outgrow. So-called “starter” cages may look roomy enough to hold a small bunny, but remember, that the small bunny may grow to be a good-sized adult. Even if the rabbit you adopt is a dwarf breed, you should remember that he will spend much of his time in his cage. The roomier the cage, the happier your rabbit will be.
Make sure the cage is not placed in direct sunlight or in an area prone to drafts. It should be situated in a relatively quiet area, away from noisy televisions and stereos, but still within the sphere of family activities - Not in the garage or an unfinished basement that the family rarely visits. Only in this way can you hope to establish a bond with your new pet.
Exercise
A clean, roomy cage is a good start, but it is no substitute for adequate exercise and stimulation. Think of it from your bunny’s point of view. Life in a cage must be pretty boring. Therefore, you should be prepared to spend some time every day, preferably several times a day, supervising your rabbit as he explores the world around him. Bunnies do not always know what is and is not good for them, and you may find a nibble out of a chair leg or an electrical cord if you do not supervise his walkabouts. Make sure all wires are tacked or raised out of reach of your new bunny, and never let your bunny chew any electrical wire, as he could be electrocuted with only one little nip.
Use the time your rabbit spends out of his cage to get to know him. The best way to do this is by getting down to his level and letting him get to now you. Rabbits are very inquisitive, and will usually hop over to check out anything you do at the floor level. If you have a good book to read, why not do so stretched out on the floor? Talk softly to your bunny and, if it seems to want attention, gently stroke his forehead and ears. He may hop away at first, but if you are patient and do not force the issue, your rabbit will soon learn to trust you and welcome this time together.
Keep in mind that most rabbits, while they enjoy this kind of attention, do not like being picked up and carried around. Rabbits have an instinctive fear of falling and are not really comfortable unless they have all four feet on solid ground. It is especially important for children to understand this.
When you do pick up your rabbit, be careful to make him feel secure. Different rabbits require different approaches, and you will soon learn how best to handle your bunny. It is important, however, to fully support his hindquarters and steady him as he is lifted. NEVER pick up your rabbit by the ears, or allow your child to do this, as it causes intense pain to the bunny.
Nutrition
(The following information if offered only as a guide.) For questions about diet or any other aspect of your rabbit’s care, you should consult a veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbits. There are also many comprehensive books on rabbit care that address the issue of proper nutrition. Be sure that any books you follow are fairly recent, however, because out understanding of rabbit’s needs has evolved and older books are not always reliable.
It is important that your rabbit receive most of his nourishment in the form of good-quality rabbit pellets, which are available at most pet supply stores. They should look and smell fresh, not musty, and should be bought in relatively small quantities to ensure they do not become stale and lose their nutritive value. Mealtimes should be scheduled at about the same time each day and fresh pellets used for each feeding.
Another important element in your rabbit’s feeding is hay, which provides roughage and helps to prevent the development of gastric hairballs, a serious health problem. Alfalfa hay is usually sold with other small animal supplies at pet supply stores. Like the pellets, the hay should be as fresh as possible.
Fruits and vegetables should be fed only in small quantities: no more than about five percent of your pet’s daily food intake. Some appropriate choices are carrots, broccoli, parsley, alfalfa sprouts, apples and bananas. Contrary to popular belief, lettuce and cabbage are not good choices, as they can lead to intestinal upsets. Be sure that the food is fresh and remove any uneaten greens promptly from the cage. Green foods should not be given to rabbits under the age of six months, and they should be introduced very gradually into the diet as the rabbit matures. You should avoid any sudden changes in your rabbit’s diet at any age.
It is essential that your rabbit have access to fresh, clean drinking water at all times. If you use a water bottle with a sipper tube, be sure that you rinse it daily and scrub it frequently with a bottle brush to keep it clean. Also, be sure that it is correctly positioned on the cage, otherwise it will not dispense water properly.
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