PRE-DISCUSSION MAILOUT
CONTAINERS FOR ORCHIDS - THE WHICH AND THE WHY OF IT!
Marilyn H.S. Light
Copyright 1999
UNDERSTANDING ORCHIDS IN CONTAINERS
Container-grown plants are dependent upon the grower for the provision of
water and adequate light to prosper. Success with container growing lies
in the care and attention of the grower to detail. Plant selection and
matching a plant with an appropriate container, choice of potting medium,
watering and application of fertilizer at appropriate intervals will all
have an impact on the ultimate success.
CHOOSING CONTAINERS
Pots are made of plastic or terracotta clay. Impervious, lightweight
plastic pots are furnished with one or more drainage holes in the base.
More holes can be made simply by heating a nail and pressing it into the
plastic. Water-permeable, heavy clay pots usually have one drainage hole
in the base but various designs having slots or holes scattered over the
sides and base are available from specialist outlets. Lighter weight
plastic pots are especially useful in the home where the chance of wind
blowing a plant over is much reduced. Potting medium in plastic containers
dries more slowly than that in porous clay pots. Succulent,
drought-tolerant epiphytic orchids are better raised in clay pots where
there will be less chance of the medium ever becoming waterlogged. Better
still, try raising the most succulent specimens mounted on bark slabs or
in open baskets.
Basket containers made of wire, plastic, mesh, wood or even pottery can be
purchased or made from existing materials. These are ideal containers for
heavily rooted, sprawling or trailing orchids. Mesh pots are critical for
successful blooming of Draculas as the inflorescences have little
difficulty finding their way through the base of the container. Similarly,
Stanhopea, Gongora and Acineta must be grown in open baskets if their
pendant flower spikes are to be enjoyed.
Mounts made of cork bark, oak slabs, wood and even coarse textured rubber
tile are used to support orchid growth. Not all surfaces please orchids
and the roots will let the grower know when a surface is not appealing. If
the roots do not attach to a surface or worse still, grow away from the
surface, try a different material. Corrugated bark is preferred to smooth.
A plant may be tied to a surface or merely laid on the surface and
permitted to establish. When a mount becomes overgrown or when it begins
to fall apart, simply tie a new mount to the old one such that the orchid
grows onto the new surface. You will be surprised just how easy it is to
pass the baton.
Always let a plant and its growth habit show you how it should be grown.
Twig epiphytes
Some orchids prefer to have their roots totally exposed as with the
equitant Oncidiums. Tolumnia (Onc.) henekenii thrives mounted on a piece
of lilac wood. The slender roots rapidly travel over the bark surface.
Epiphytes with a preference for rotten wood
Catasetums are often found growing wild on stumps and even fence posts.
There are two types of root. Thick, succulent roots ramify through the
rotten wood, absorbing water and nutrients. Slender, aerial roots point
upwards around the base of the plant. These may serve to gather leaves and
other mulch material. They may even permit gaseous exchange unavailable to
the buried roots although this has never been proven. Catasetums can be
grown in baskets or in heavy clay pots.
Terrestrials
Chinese Cymbidiums are an interesting example of the potentially exacting
requirements for a container to match plant requirements. Eric Wolff
(Winterview Orchids) tells me that some Asian Cymbidiums produce
meter-long roots in their native bamboo forest habitat. To accommodate
this substantial root structure, Asian Cymbidiums are best cultivated install pots with lower perforations to permit gaseous exchange near the
bottom. Some of the traditional vase-like pots may be seen at
www.winterview.com. Unrestricted root growth permits an orchid to store
water and nutrients which in turn support the development of superior
inflorescences.
Jewel Orchids such as Ludisia and Anoectochilus do not require deep pots.
Their habit is stoloniferous. They spread over the surface of a container,
producing shallow roots at each node. A broad, shallow pot is recommended.
Perhaps better still is a glass terrarium where the orchid can meander at
will in a humid garden.
Coarse epiphytes
Relatively thick rooted epiphytes are suited to clay or plastic pots and
baskets. There will be less worry about overwatering if a clay pot or
basket is used.
Seedlings
Seedlings can be grown as a group in a plastic tray or pot. Slatted
plastic trays used in kitchen drawers are ideal. They both conserve
moisture and permit aeration from all sides.
Signs of Container Trouble
Check plants regularly. Often the first sign of trouble will be wilting,
yellowing and/or leaf drop. [Exception: plants entering seasonal dormancy]
The most frequent cause of problems is death of the roots. Slender roots
will die if the medium dries out completely. This can happen because of
insufficient water or because water cannot penetrate the root mass.
Likewise, if plants are overwatered, too frequently watered or if the
medium is imperfectly drained, roots can rot. Whatever the cause of root
death, remedial action must be swift if the plant is to be saved.
Check the Medium First
If the medium is moist yet the plant appears stressed for lack of water,
do not add even more water. Instead, remove the plant from the container
to examine the roots. Trim all dead root material, wilted leaves and stems
then repot in fresh medium. Place the plant in a shaded spot and mist
regularly until growth resumes. (Sometimes plants can simply be placed in
a clear plastic bag with a few sprigs of damp moss and hung in a bright,
warm location until growth resumes.)
If the medium is dry, the plant is clearly stressed but is not yet due for
repotting, first try a thorough watering. Observe the plant for several
days to see if it perks up. If the plant recovers this means that the
roots were still able to absorb water and growth will resume. If the plant
does not perk up immediately, set it in a shaded place for several weeks
to see if it will recover. Mist regularly but do not water. Plants can be
quite resilient. If the main roots have not been damaged, the plant will
recover. At this point, remove dead foliage to improve the appearance.
Move the plant to a bright or partly shaded position, according to type.
If the plant is due for repotting, perhaps the problem is that it is
potbound. Roots can accumulate such that water penetrates only slightly:
roots can no longer proliferate. Repot and divide as necessary.
SOME ORCHIDS FOR BASKETS/MOUNTING
Brassavola nodosa
Lady-of-the-Night is the popular name for this night-fragrant,
white-flowered orchid which grows well in a hanging basket. Situate these
orchids where their night fragrance will be appreciated. Plants may bloom
several times a year. Hybrids of B. nodosa such as Bc. Binosa (green with
spots), Bl. Richard Mueller (yellow with spots) and Potinara Hoku Gem
(yellow changing to orange) have similar cultural requirements. All of
this group grow well in bright situations with some overhead shade from
the midday sun. They are drought- tolerant but thrive with supplementary
watering during the driest times.
Cattleya skinneri 'Hettie Jacobs'
This tetraploid cultivar is superior in flower color and size to the
typical species form. Plants can be raised to immense size provided the
potting mix permits perfect drainage even to the center of the clump.
Support must be adequate to manage what must eventually become a very
heavy basket. This orchid produces clusters of purple flowers in March to
May.
Oncidium ampliatum
One of the popular 'Bee' orchids, this species provides a wealth of bright
golden yellow flowers in March to May. Substantial sprays are produced by
even modest plants. A 50 cm (20 in) diameter wire basket filled with
chunky pieces of bark will support the growth of a large plant.
Phalaenopsis and Doritaenopsis
Moth orchids come in shades of white, pink and yellow, with or without
spots and stripes. Many long-lasting blooms are evenly arrayed along long
arching stems. The broad, green to reddish green leaves are easily
sun-burned. Try planting several plants in a large basket for a remarkable
show of long- lasting blooms. Alternatively, arrange several blooming
plants in a basket for a superb decorative effect.
Vanda and Ascocenda
If there is an orchid that provides flowers in all colors of the rainbow,
it is the hybrid vanda or ascocenda. Vandas have the largest blooms, some
reaching the size of a saucer. The best cultivars have sturdy stems
bearing many flat blooms of heavy substance. Such blooms will remain in
good condition for several months. Ascocendas are hybrid orchids combining
the shape and size of Vanda blooms with the more diminutive plant size and
brilliant colors of Ascocentrum. Hybrids are compact with multiple sprays
of proportionately smaller, but more brightly colored blooms. Both vandas
and ascocendas are easily raised in hanging baskets made of wooden slats.
Little or no potting medium is needed with adult plants. Roots are
numerous and lengthy, hanging down beneath the basket. These should not be
removed. Raise vandas and ascocendas with light to moderate overhead
shade, broad-leaved plants requiring more shade than plants having more
folded or terete foliage. Spray roots daily.
Go Back to Index
TRANSCRIPT
Present were 19:
reparata - (Agnes, NSW Australia) Please email Lois; I haven't put the name with the email address.
marylois - northwest Louisiana
JCY8S (John, Arcadia CA)
Jade from G R - Grand Rapids MI
marilyninOttawa - Canada
soobie me (Susan, Raleigh NC)
bradwinn - Sault Ste Marie MI
MiamiBert - Florida
AORCHID (Art, Simpsonville SC)
UncleEarl - Vacaville CA
aalayne - new! Send Lois name, location, email.
gaillevy - Boca Raton FL
Carol Holdren - Boca Raton FL
prankster d (Susan, Oregon)
framer1 (Sharon, Indiana)
CymOrchids - new!
Lanceps - (Thamina, Manhattan Beach CA)
Jagso - Bombay India
chuckmyr1 - Austin MN
marilyninOttawa
Tonight, we are going to discuss pots/containers/mounts of all shapes, sizes and materials. Potting media will be discussed at a
future date. As you all know, pots can be round or square, shallow or deep, of plastic or clay, clear and opaque, extra tall and
narrow or broad and shallow. There are net pots and vast array of colors. There is something literally for any orchid in any
growing situation. One of the biggest challenges facing newer growers is the process of re-potting and potting on. What are the
challenges facing you as you deal with yet another lot of repotting? Maybe some of you could tell me how you decide what the
next pot size and type will be? What do you use? Sterilized recycled containers or only new ones?
Jade from G R
Whether clay, plastic or mount depends on root condition.
framer1
Dends like to be crowded, Phals don't. Roots determine size for me. Sterilized and new pots.
JCY8S (John in Arcadia, CA)
I use old pots usually, that I have cleaned but new ones if I don't have the correct size. Size is determined by putting a plant in a
pot and seeing what it looks like.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
In the last year I've switched many of my plants to slatted baskets. Roots are responding fabulously. I choose the smallest pot
or basket I can cram the roots into. I always recycle when I can. (I'm very cheap!) For large plants and for plants that I can't
underpot, I use an inverted net pot or small clay pot in the center to make an air reservoir. I make a lot of concessions to my
addiction to overwatering.
Jade from G R
Susan, great idea. I have that addiction too. I'm going to try your idea.
I use recycled ones that have been soaked in a bleach solution. I repot to what the roots need but tend to be conservative.
JCY8S (John in Arcadia, CA)
Jade I do the same except I am more liberal. Maybe that is because here our plants tend to grow quickly.
AORCHID (art, simpsonville sc)
How long do you need to let pots soak in bleach solution?
Jade from G R
I use about 1 Cup bleach for about 1 1/2 gal warm water. For plastic pots (cleaned of detritus) I soak for about 5 mins, for
clay about 1 hour. So far haven't had any bad feedback. Oh yes, when a pot is badly mineralized I soak overnite or 2 in a Gal
warm water with 1 cup white vinegar. Then rinse and bleach.
marilyninOttawa
Always sterilize pots if you plan to recycle. I would recommend using only new pots for orchids and reusing the old pots for
other houseplants. Soaking precleaned plastic pots in (1 part bleach, 9 parts water) solution for 10-30 minutes + a rinse in plain
water should be fine. Clay pots are more difficult to adequately sterilize and so I must caution against their recycling. The same
goes for wooden baskets. Bleach solution must be frequently refreshed to be effective.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
In addition to bleach soak, I often boil clay pots, adding a little vinegar to the water for mineral deposits.
MiamiBert
I don't fool around. Use 18 gal plastic storage container for my bleach, 1:10 dilution of swimming pool chlorine. Add fresh
chlorine each time I clean. Leave pots overnite in order to dissolve any old roots clinging to pots.
Jade from G R
Bert: How much stronger is swimming pool chlorine than reg. bleach?
MiamiBert
I believe swimming pool chlorine double strength that of Chlorox. Swimming pool chlorine cheaper - if you're going to fill 18 gal
container. (Household bleach is 5% hypochlorite)
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie, MI.)
When you are potting mature plants for the first time would you tend to over-size pot OR underpot?
marilyninOttawa
Brad, much depends upon the kind of orchid and the growing conditions. Give me an example of the kinds you grow.
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie,MI.)
I am potting....Epidendrum...Brassia...Oncidium.
marilyninOttawa
Some orchids like Zygopetalums grow quickly and substantially. Unless you want to repot a couple of times a year, it is best to
overpot. Dendrobiums on the other hand, often take overpotting badly. These must always be underpotted. Brassias and some
Oncidiums will produce a lot of fine roots that they will quickly fill a pot. I generally overpot these vigorous types but use a very
coarse mix to compensate for the possibility of waterlogging in the center of the root mass. Brassias can also be grown in
baskets. Epidendrums such as the reed stems do well in clay pots just large enough to hold the root ball. More substantial Epis
such as E. paniculatum will do well in large heavy pots. Heavier pots tend to stabilize top heavy epis.
reparata
Hi Marilyn. I just joined orchid safari. Is it all right to coil vanda roots until everything goes into the pot?
marilyninOttawa
Vanda roots grow naturally out of a pot. I know it is not very neat or tidy but trying to coil the roots will simply cause many of
them to break which is not too good for the plant. Try growing the Vanda in a slatted basket.
Jade from G R
I grow my vandas in slated baskets but find they dry out very quickly even in a basement growing room. How do you keep
them happy?
reparata (agneslr-w)
When these vandas arrive bare rooted, it seems like some of them have been inside or something and others, usually the fat ones, seem like they've been outside. So I try to reconstruct their 'previous lives'.
MiamiBert
OFE has new heavy plastic baskets, 4 in & 8 in, with matte finish to encourage root attachment. I just started using them.
marilyninOttawa
One way we used to keep Vandas happy during the dry season (in the West Indies) was to place some of the roots in pop
bottles filled with very weak manure tea. This was outdoors in the tropics. The plants were also sprayed frequently during the
heat of the day.
You can find a wide range of containers listed at Charleys Greenhouse I note that they have net pots which are useful for
aeration. The inverted pot is a great idea. I use a lot of styrofoam peanuts or large pieces of charcoal. Saves on the cost of
media, especially for Phals whose roots are going to wander anyway.
MiamiBert
OFE has new 4 inch, thick plastic pots with windows up and down for breathing.
marylois
Yes - even affixing floral tubes of weak fertilizer water to large vanda roots makes them happy.
MiamiBert
I wonder if the same people who admonish against high urea fertilizer use manure tea and fish emulsion?
reparata (agneslr-w)
I am in Australia, in a subtropical area (today 26 C and 75% humidity). When the roots are fat and green with white speckles,
does that mean they're happy?
Jade from G R
Those vandas sound really happy. The ones that live in Sri Lanka look like that.
marilyninOttawa
Agnes, it sounds like the roots are happy. The growing point should be green or reddish green and obviously healthy. That is a
good sign that the plant is happy and growing. If the growing point disappears (actually the spongy white velamen closes over
the tip) then it is a sign that the plant may not be happy. It could be seasonal dormancy or it could be a problem such as too
much salt or too cold or too hot! The white dots are areas of coarse tissue where the root can transpire.
aalayne
Hello. I have a question regarding should I discard all medium when repotting?
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
I compost my old media. FAR AWAY from my growing area.
Jade from G R
Me too. I use it as a mulch around my evergreens.
marilyninOttawa
I discard all used medium as far as orchids are concerned but it composts very nicely so does not go to waste in the garden.
MiamiBert
Since I use a lot of Aliflor, it's hard to compost. (Coarse materials like perlite and other granular inert potting media can be
incorporated into soil.)
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie,MI.)
Marilyn...How do you treat Stanhopea, and Gongora and, Catasetum? Would you place them in a larger basket and let them
grow into it, or use a tight basket and repot more often?
marilyninOttawa
I have found that Catasetums grow best on a two-year repotting cycle. With Stanhopeas and Gongoras, I would recommend
choosing a basket size to permit at least two or more years growth. One can always place a small basket inside a larger one to
pot on. Use a saw to remove some of the original slats without disturbing the plant. At some point, you will have to decide how
big you want your specimen to become. Most perennial plants reach an optimum size after which they become somewhat less
compact and more sprawling. Once the center of the clump dies, it is time to divide and repot/basket on the next scheduled
occasion.
MiamiBert
Many of us Catasetum freaks repot on annual basis. A good growing Catasetum can fill up a pot with old dead roots. I have ca 300
of the little buggers. Takes about 10 days in spring to repot all Catasetums. It's partly a religion.
marilyninOttawa
I think that my two-year cycle works well in Canada Bert but I would probably adopt a different regime if I was located further
south like you are.
aalayne
Does anybody grow orchids in high altitude?
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
aalayne, I live in a high elevation area. Cool orchids do pretty well here. Can't grow Phals well though.
aalayne
Susan, how often do you water your orchids?
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
aalayne, I water my orchids TOO often! I let them stay very cool in winter. I probably shouldn't water at all during this time.
Really, depends on pot size, genus, etc. I make myself stick a bamboo skewer into all my pots to check for dryness, and refrain
from watering if there is moisture. During summer, when my plants are outdoors, most can take daily watering. (Its very dry
here.)
reparata (agneslr-w)
Susan, when I tried doing this I felt some crunches and was worried that I'd skewered a root!
aalayne
Thanks Susan, I am new to high altitude, arid gardening. And its my first greenhouse...anybody suggest a great book?
marilyninOttawa
You can lift a pot to determine how much water is being held by the medium. It is surprising how light a pot can become when
dry or how heavy when wet.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
aalayne, high elevation growing can be pretty much like any other growing if your willing to spend heaps on heating. Oh yes.
Our short winter days....I use lights too.
marilyninOttawa
Aalayne. How high is your location?
aalayne
We are about 7000 ft, high and dry.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
Whoa, Aalayne, There's hardly any oxygen up there!
marilyninOttawa
I would suggest that the greatest challenge will be water supply. By careful choice of orchid, you can probably find some to suit
your purpose. Why not try growing pleurothallids in a glassed in cabinet. You will conserve water, have fewer temperature
concerns: the high cabinet humidity will suit the plants just fine. Many Pleurothallids need neither very warm nor very cold
conditions. There are hundreds of kinds to choose from. Another choice would be Disas raised in water culture (pots in
individual water reservoirs. Disas should do well in the bright light and cooler growing conditions.
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie,MI.)
Marilyn, when you REPOT your Phals. have you ever used pure NZ spaghnum moss?? Just re-wrap the exposed roots with new
spa g moss to fit the next size pot and push it in?
MiamiBert
I use short fiber 'New Zealand' sphagnum a lot. It is somewhat cheaper and remains surprisingly springy without packing down
marilyninOttawa
Yes, Brad. When deflasking Phals and when raider the basket and grow all over it? We have trouble keeping ours in pots they
have such a rambling habit.
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie,MI.)
Marilyn. When you put a Brassia in a basket...do you use spaghnum moss as your potting media?
Jade from G R
I too am looking for another way to grow my brassia. Please tell us more about the basket way.
reparata (agneslr-w)
My B. verrucosa is doing just that too. Each bulb growing higher than the one before it outside!
Lanceps
Do brassias grow outdoors? I've got this 5' ficus log where I put vigorous reject catts.
Jade from G R
Marilyn, what medium do you use in the baskets to grow Brassia?
marilyninOttawa
Brassias become immense specimens. I have a Brassidium Betty N. Shiraki that is similar. This is grown in coarse bark (big
hunks) mostly to wedge the plant in place. The roots grow everywhere but in the basket and the plant blooms like crazy.
Rampant growers do not need fussy mixes, they simply need space to grow! (The type of medium will also be determined by
the type of basket. You can use a finer mix for a less open basket but may have to line a wire basket with sheet moss or
coconut palm ‘cloth' to hold even coarse medium inside. ML)
Jade from G R
Marilyn, do you mean wooden baskets like vandas often grown in or the Stanhopea plastic ones?
marilyninOttawa
Yes Janette, that is the way they grow. Place them in a hanging basket and let them thrive. You will be rewarded with masses
of fragrant blooms.
JanetteH
Will give it a try, Marilyn. So far haven't been able to bloom any of the species brassias.
marilyninOttawa
No moss in the medium Brad. This year I tried coconut bast fiber that comes in bricks with great results (Oncidium alliance).
This only works with pots however.
marylois
I have Brs. Edvah Loo in an 18 inch basket - used my charcoal/horticultural perlite/tree fern mix...been off trying to find the
picture - no luck had over 20 spikes this year...
jagso
Marilyn.. Yes our experiments with coconut husk blocks for oncidiums performed well than any other media tried like
charcoal, wooden blocks, an others. We also found that use of FERN blocks was much better but availability of fern blocks is
rather difficult as it is cut from the FERN tree and some places difficult to come by except New Zealand.. Which exports a lot.
marilyninOttawa
Jade. Remove the Brassia from its pot. Choose a basket that will have at least 1-2" space between the plant and the basket
edges all round. Place the plant in the basket. Wedge in place with large pieces of bark. In fill with coarse bark. Water well.
Spray daily until root growth resumes. Follow your standard watering and fertilizing schedule. Suspend the plant preferably
where there is all round light for the best possible display of flowers in season.
marilyninOttawa
Wooden or plastic baskets are equally good.
kbbarrett
Lois, with your Brassia in a basket... you mentioned treefern, in chunks? You usually use fiber?
marylois
I don't use chunks, Kathy - I line baskets with hardware cloth and put the large version of my regular charcoal/hort perlite/tree
fern mixture in it. Works in my climate.
marilyninOttawa
I have heard of plants being raised in colanders!
Jade from G R
A colander is just a plastic basket with smaller holes. Why not?
marylois
Yes, I know several people with a plant or two in a colander...wonderful potting utensil! Always a specimen plant in the ones
I've seen.
bradwinn (Brad Winnicki / Sault Ste. Marie,MI.)
Marilyn. Can you suggest a solution or 'dip' to use on just shipped bare root orchids that are in culture shock? Just something to
help them reestablish themselves,
marilyninOttawa
I have tried several treatments to revive stressed orchids. Often succulent orchids go into what is called an 'idling phase' and
must be restarted by exposing the plant to an appropriate temperature (usually warmer). I have been soaking plants briefly in a
solution of Superthrive (1 drop per liter) but am now beginning to suspect that a solution of Jerry's Grow might also be
stimulatory. I haven't done that experiment yet though. I would use a 1/4 tsp to 2 quarts of water. For 5 minutes max. (Some
growers soak plants in a weak sugar solution (1 Tbsp per gallon) but I wonder if that does more for the growers peace of mind
than for the plant.)
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
Good evening everyone, sorry I'm late. The article on mounting orchids (in Orchids) is giving me the courage to try it myself, so
I obtained a small seedling B. nodosa (1 1/2 '' pot). My question is will this species creep upward (need to mount near
bottom), or just slowly wander anywhere on the mount?
kbbarrett
Chuck, I have one flat on a horizontal piece of bark. [like on a table top] It grows anywhere it wants to in that arrangement.
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
I'd like to hang the nodosa and I'm not sure horizontal would be as convenient for my setup.
Jade from G R
Chuck, I have several mounted and they grow up faster than down but can grow both ways so mount them little below
center.
marylois
Right, Jade. At an Austin TX show, I saw nodosa grown horizontally on a log over six feet long -how they ever got it to grown
and bloom all over that support, I'll never know -- displayed it high - like a swing!
marilyninOttawa
Hi Chuck. B. nodosa does well on a horizontal mount. Usually a plant will grow towards whatever it finds attractive, light
source, water source, humidity source or simply away from gravity. Keep the mount in one position and observe what the plant
does.
Lanceps
Anyone seen the new Orchids magazine? A plant on a slab is turned upside down to start growing up the back :)
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
The bad news is most of the horizontal space is gone - I've got lots of wall space though (growing under high pressure sodium)
JanetteH
In other words, you need to go up the walls, Chuck.
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
That's right, Janette!
Jade from G R
Chuck, Hang hardware cloth or some other grid like stuff on the walls and you have lots of space for ousts. I works great!
kbbarrett
Chuck, Roy Tokunaga from H&R nurseries came to our society and talked about hanging Dendrobiums on he wall. He runs a
wire down the side of the pot and out thru a drainage hole, then with some bending of wire he gets them to hang vertically on
the wall. They are still in their pots, but up on the wall. He does it in order to keep from knocking them over on the bench top.
jagso
Kathy, we did experiment several dendrobes in hanging arrangement. In which case the pseudobulbs keep rowing out in all
360 * making it into an ORCHID sculpture.
Jade from G R
Kathy, that sound really interesting. I get so tired of knocking them over and all the mess.
jagso
Has anyone have had experience in growing terrestrials and what kind of potting medium works well.
marilyninOttawa
Which terrestrials, Jags?
jagso
Like spathaglottis hybrids, phaius varieties, Arundina graminifolia etc which have thin root structure unlike ther epiphytes..We
have experimented several varieties to grow them and in each the growth pattern is different.
marilyninOttawa
I grow Spathoglottis and Sobralia indoors in pots of Promix (peat, perlite mix) and bark. In the tropics, the Spathoglottis were raised in halved 45 gal drums filled with soil, composted donkey manure, coconut husk mixture.
jagso
Marilyn. We made different material combinations like those used for ANTHURIUM growing including addition of coconut husk blocks that were cut into cubes and inserted in the potting medium. Charcoal powder, brick pieces, burnt terracotta
broken pieces, leaf mould, peat in combination, fern block pieces etc.
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POST TOPIC CHAT
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
Has anyone attempted using homemade clay baskets? I'd be tempted to try such a project at my school's art department.
kbbarrett
Lois has a wonderful clay pot!
marylois
Yes, Kathy - but I mounted it on the OUTSIDE of the pot - water inside as a coolant.
kbbarrett
True, but its the only homemade pot I could think of!
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
Chuck, I've always thought I'd like to try my hand td making attractive functional pot. Designing each pot for a particular plant. I
really like the appearance of those tall oriental Cymbidium pots.
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
Lois, would your special pot work for any mountable orchid, or is it too moist all the time for some?
marylois
I believe it would work for all, esp in the south where keeping roots cool can be a problem. Some folks use glazed 'sewer pipe' - stop up bottom end. Chinese cyms seem to thrive in them - ones I saw stood about 18" high. But must watch out for lead.
chuckmyr1 (Chuck in Austin MN)
Susan, I also want a pot that I can put Paph armeniacum into - needs something very broad and shallow.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
Idea needed: I have a particularly beautiful lava rock. Its rough. The same texture as those lava rock hunklets that Hawaiian
Dendrobes come potted in. Does anyone have a suggestion for a smallish lava-growing lithophyte that I could mount on it?
kbbarrett
Any of the rupicolous laelias?
marylois
Oh, susan, I tried equitant oncidiums - robert drilled 2" holes with a small drain hole in center of each - put them in with small
tree fern. Dismal failure.
marylois
Tried about one each of those in the same porous red lava rock...gone.
prankster d (Susan from NE Oregon)
I don't even try equitants anymore. Nothing but heartbreak in my cold conditions. Rup. Laelias, though! There's an idea!
kbbarrett
Yes equitants are trickier than you'd think... I finally stopped watering them, just let them get what's in the air, but they are near the overspray from the vandas.
marylois
Speaking of pots - I found the most darling little flat pots with matching flat saucers and I used them for compots! Unfortunately
for me, they only had two!
Jade from G R
lois, bonsai pots look a lot like that . Why wouldn't they work?
marylois
Small ones would! These are red clay, but like bonsai with two large holes that I had to cover with thin pieces of crock. the drainage is wonderful...and when they seem just a bit dry, at times I just put distilled water in the tray (allows very thin film of
water...enough to make me feel good and not drown the compot!!
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