with exerpts from

RAISING MASDEVALLIAS FROM SEED
Marilyn H.S. Light
©1992
The Orchid Review Vol. 100:264-268

and

THOSE CHARMING JEWELS - THE MASDEVALLIAS
Marilyn H.S. Light
©1996
The Orchid Review Vol: 104:147-149

The growth of Masdevallia enthusiasm in recent years has been almost unbelievable. There have been twice as many hybrids registered since 1985 as were made in the 90 previous years with over 60% of those hybrids registered in 1991 alone. There has been a concerted effort to create Masdevallias for intermediate conditions. Not only have breeders' efforts met the goal of warmth-tolerance but some very beautiful flowers have been produced in the process.

I have found that water quality is one of the most important considerations in the successful culture of Masdevallias. De-ionized water, rain water or in winter, melted snow, should be used to water and mist the plants whenever possible. Good quality water should even be used as a diluent for fertilizer (7-7-7 with micronutrients) which can be applied weakly every two to four weeks year-round.

TIP!!
Some Masdevallias must be fertilized with extreme care especially if the growing temperature is too low or too high for the particular species. Leaves of e.g. Masd. lamprotyria will develop unsightly blotches prompting some to reach for the fungicide. Withholding fertilizer, flushing mineral salts or simply growing the plants in a different temperature regime will remedy the situation.

Flush the potting medium regularly with plain water. Re-pot plants once or twice a year depending upon the medium being used. Coarse-rooted Masdevallias such as Masd. ignea can be potted in a fine bark and perlite mix. Finer rooted species and hybrids grow well for me in New Zealand sphagnum moss. I have found it best to repot plants growing in moss at least once a year. Large plants are divided about every three years.

TIP!!
If the time for repotting is in doubt, gently pull moss-rooted plants out of their pots and check the roots. There should still be evidence of root growth with many new white roots showing root hairs. If all or most of the root tips are still firm but not growing or are brown, repotting must be done right away!

Re-potting
Dampen some new moss. Select an appropriately sized new pot. Gently prise away much of the moss surrounding the inactive roots. Remove any roots that have become soft or mushy: they are dead. Swish the roots in water to dislodge loose moss. It is not necessary to remove all the moss. Wrap the root ball in fresh dampened moss and place in pot. Fit should be snug. Resume watering and feeding schedule.

RAISING MASDEVALLIAS FROM SEED

Although my first interest in growing Masdevallias from seed resulted from queries of fellow growers, I soon caught the "bug" and began trying to unravel some of the mysteries. Although I could quite easily learn about the breeding potential of various species and hybrids from the popular literature, I could not find any details about raising Masdevallias from seed. I had the some very basic questions. 1) How long would it take a capsule to mature and what difference if any exists between species? 2) What is an appropriate germination medium to use with this genus? 3) Were there any problems with compatibility between taxonomic divisions (sections) within the genus that might affect seed production? I also wanted to learn more about triquetrous species of Subsection Alaticaules. How long could an inflorescence of M. tovarensis continue to produce flowers and when using this as a capsule-bearing structure, would its age matter? My investigations have led to still further questions: I know only some of the answers but willingly share what I have learned with you.

The steps I use to obtain seedlings and to grow them on are summarized below.

POLLINATION

The challenge of Masdevallia pollination could daunt the most determined hybridizer. While most of the larger-flowered species and hybrids are relatively easy, the flowers of tiny, delicate species are often more testing. Not only are their essential organs smaller but often they are also almost colorless. Placing minute, colorless pollinia on a translucent stigma requires a jeweller's loop and steady hands. You dare not breathe lest the pollinia get blown away. I have found it safest to work over a fresh sheet of white paper and to remove the lip before pollination. Sometimes one must carve away parts of the sepaline tube to see.

Gently dislodge the anther cap with a whittled toothpick or a needle. Remove the pollen from both flowers. Pollinate. Label both the flower stalk and the pot with the date and the cross.

I have experimented with M. tovarensis to determine if age of an inflorescence would affect capsule set. The plant that I used for the experiment normally blooms in November/December. It carried inflorescences that had flowered once or twice before as well as those that were blooming for the first time. The first time I conducted the experiment, I used pollinia taken from flowers open about three weeks to pollinate similar-aged flowers on inflorescences chosen at random in each age class. Interestingly, capsules did not develop on the oldest inflorescences (3-season): the inflorescences turned yellow and withered after the last flowers faded. Capsules developed successfully on both first season and 2-season inflorescences. I have since learned that flower age at pollination may be critical to successful seed production and so recently repeated the experiment with flowers five days after opening with similar results. Interestingly, flowers of one inflorescence that yellowed shortly after flowering was over were unable to set seed. Although it would be inappropriate to generalize for all triquetrous species or even for all clones of M. tovarensis from these experiments, it might be advisable to choose flowers to pollinate from the newest inflorescences.

CAPSULE HARVEST

Masdevallia capsules take approximately 90 to 150 days to mature and dehisce (split open to release seed). With inter-specific hybrids, the capsule-bearing parent determines the time required for capsule maturation. The capsules enlarge rapidly after pollination, often doubling in girth during the first month. I have found that capsules enlarging more slowly generally have less viable seed within. Careful observation is needed with species and hybrids being used for the first time. The capsule splits on the underside. A good early warning sign for impending dehiscence is a lightening or yellowing of the capsule sutures.

A capsule can be safely harvested before dehiscence provided that it is 4/5 mature. For example, partially mature capsules of M. peristeria can be harvested at 120 days post-pollination when the embryos are mature. The seed still clumps together making sowing a bit difficult. Seed taken from fully mature capsules about to dehisce is free-flowing and easier to sow evenly on an agar surface. Germination may be more certain.

SOWING SEED

Intact capsules should be surface-sterilized with a solution of 1 part liquid bleach in 10 parts water for 10 minutes before opening to remove the seed. Open the capsule with a sterile razor blade and sow the seed directly on agar medium. If a capsule has already begun to split, remove it carefully to a clean sheet of paper and leave in a dry place at room temperature for 24 hours. Tap the capsule to release all the seed caught within. Surface-sterilize Masdevallia seed for 10 minutes in a solution of liquid bleach diluted 1:20 with tap water. Rinse the seed with sterile water before sowing using sterile techniques.

GERMINATION REQUIREMENTS

G & B Mother Flask Medium V containing charcoal gives me consistent germination results for many species (G & B Orchid Laboratories, Vista, California). Alternatively, I have used Phytamax (Sigma 6888) full or half strength and if half strength, adjusted for sugar content with the addition of 10 grams of sugar per liter. Germinate the seeds in the light at approximately 20°C. The embryos will usually swell during the first seven days, developing into green protocorms within three weeks. Plantlets can be transplanted after one to two months. Transplant the most vigorous protocorms to a medium such as G & B Replate Medium V or fresh Phytamax medium. Plant only a few protocorms to a flask to avoid crowding.

Occasionally, I have found species and hybrid seed to germinate normally but to remain in the green protocorm stage for up to a year. Then, all of a sudden, without any change in light or temperature regime, the protocorms grow rapidly to have leaves and roots in a matter of weeks! Perhaps these few have some dormancy period of which we are not yet aware. It would be interesting to know if any readers have had similar experiences.

TIP!!

When in doubt, replate. All too often, delay means loss of valuable seedlings. One day and poof!!

REMOVAL FROM FLASK
Removing seedlings from flask and getting them started in pots is easy provided that the seedlings have several leaves, healthy roots, and are cared for properly afterwards. Remove seedlings from a flask taking care not to bruise them. Bruised or torn tissue is susceptible to fungal attack. Gently rinse clinging medium from the roots. Some growers advocate the use of a fungicide as a precaution against damping-off. I prefer not to use a fungicide because of mycorrhizal associations that I have observed developing with seedling roots within six weeks of removal from flask. Although yet to be proven as a cause/effect, establishment of these mycorrhizal associations seems to parallel a spurt of seedling growth. Certainly, Masdevallia protocorms at the rhizoid stage may be rescued from contaminated flasks to trays of finely chopped sphagnum moss with little or no set back.

Plant similar size seedlings in plastic pots of damp New Zealand sphagnum moss . If desired, the plantlets can be watered with a plant starter solution of Best Grow or Super Thrive (one drop to a gallon). Place the pots in a bright airy spot out of direct sun. Keep the seedlings misted: do not let them dry out. Dried leaves are damaged leaves and hence subject to fungal attack. I sometimes use an ultrasonic humidifier that creates an 'Andean cloud' about the plants. I have found that seedlings even of cool-gowing species such as M. coccinea and M. datura grow best at a temperature of 15°-18°C (59°-64.4°F) as compared to a cooler 10°-15°C (50°-59°F). Fertilize seedlings every two weeks with dilute liquid fertilizer such as Dyna-Grow 7-7-7 (1 ml per 4 liters or 1/4 tsp. per 8 pints water). Some seedlings can be removed to individual pots within six months to one year. Expect some to flower about four years from seed.

"Just a few years ago, I believed that it would be impossible for me to grow Masdevallias: my growing conditions were much too warm! Fortunately, a particularly vigorous clone of Masdevallia nidifica proved me wrong and opened my eyes to these charming and delightful miniature plants." Just five years after I wrote this, the same plant would be awarded a CHM/AOS!

Masdevallia species that I grow include:

Masd. agaster (I) - flowering December - April (moss and bark) fragrant
Masd. amabilis (VC) - November (bark)
Masd. constricta (I) - always blooming (moss)
Masd. decumana (C) - flowering December (moss)
Masd. herredurae (I) - flowering February (moss)
Masd. hirtzii (I) - flowering November through April (moss)
Masd. ignea (I) - flowering December/April/August (bark)
Masd. lamprotyria (C) - flowering January - fragrant (moss)
Masd. livingstoneana (W) - flowering November-January (moss and bark) fragrant
Masd. lychniphora (I) - flowering April and August (moss/mount/seasonally dormant)
Masd. nicaraguae (W) - flowering January through April (moss) fragrant
Masd. nidifica (I) - flowering October and April (moss)
Masd. peristeria (I) - flowering July (bark)
Masd. polysticta (VC) - flowering February through April (bark)
Masd. receptrix (I) - flowering April and August (moss and bark)
Masd. tovarensis (I) - flowering December/April (bark)
Masd. triangularis (I) - flowering October-April-July (moss)
Masd. vargasii (W) - flowering March to April (moss)
Masd. virgo-cuencae (I) - flowering every three months (moss and bark)
Masd. whiteana (I) - always in flower (bark)

Key to my growing temperature range:

VC - These orchids are not too amenable to my growing conditions at least as flowering success is concerned. They seem to require cold (less than 10°C (50°F) and as low as 5°C (41°F) as late into the autumn as possible without freezing then to be maintained at 10-15°C (50°-59°F) during the blooming period. As plants, they are quite happy to be grown at 20°C (68°F) or occasionally higher.

C - These orchids flower well provided that they are exposed to cold (about 10°C (50°F) in the autumn then maintained at 12-15°C (53.6°-59°F) during the blooming period

. I - This mixed bag of orchids respond to an autumn chill by flowering although Masd. constricta is somewhat more vulnerable to cold than the others listed above. Masd. peristeria must be grown cool all winter so as to bloom well during the heat of the following summer. The others grow well at 12-18°C (53.6°-64.4°F) in winter and show no ill effects from summer warmth at 22°C (71.6°F) or occasionally above 25°C (77°F).

W - Some like it hot. Masd. livingstoneana grows best at 22-25°C (71.6°-77°F)but must have a sudden chill to around 15°C (59°F)in autumn to initiate buds.