- PRE-DISCUSSION MAILOUT: ORCHID NUTRITION ©
- PRE-DISCUSSION MAILOUT: SOME THOUGHTS ON THE NUTRIENT NEEDS OF FINE PLANTS ©-
- TOPIC TRANSCRIPT
ORCHID NUTRITION" ©
28 January 1998
By Ed WrightDisclaimer - sort of. This little visit isn't Botany 101. We're just going to talk for awhile in general, non-technical terms about how orchids eat. No guarantees on results but we'll make you a promise: if you ask, we'll try to tell you why on any item. Sometimes "why" boils down to a hunch, and my hunches are based upon orchid lore developed since I first had a hand in commercial orchid culture in 1942. Mostly, though, we know why and will be glad to share that information to the degree needed. Just don't let technicalities chew up the time we can share. If you're reading this in advance, it is my practice to start things on time so we'll get this session going at the appointed hour at WBS. We'll continue as long as you like. Finally, please remember that what one can get away with isn't necessarily what we can recommend or endorse.
We're going to discuss orchid nutrition in this session - not necessarily how to feed orchids. The difference may surprise you. Perhaps it would be well to set the stage a bit. Orchid fertilizers make much of the goodies in the bag: so much N, P and K; so many trace elements; an urgent feed rate; etc. Well and good, but this brings us to axiom number one: orchids can't read the label. An orchid is just as happy with bat guano or elephant biscuits as it is with Blue Marvel fresh out of the bag. Certainly, in nature, orchid food is less than gourmet. Although the literature is thin here, we can estimate that most tropical epiphytic orchids receive about 12 - 15 PPM of N (Nitrogen) and appropriate bits of everything else every time it rains. No matter how repugnant to us, orchids call it food. Just to complete the picture, this natural food is delivered in tropical rain water that runs about pH 5.5 to 6.2. True, nature never furnishes an optimum but the difference between natural food at, say, 15 PPM and Blue Marvel at 240 PPM (one teaspoonful per gallon of water) is profound. Which brings us to axiom number two: some sell fertilizer, some grow good orchids.
To confuse the issue a bit, what comes out of the Blue Marvel bag is just what it says on the label: N (Nitrogen), P (Phosphorous), K (Potassium) at stated per cent each plus trace elements, most of which are there because they help sell Blue Marvel. The P and K on the fertilizer container are equivalents expressed as a per cent.Orchids owned by poor folks pick up trace elements as impurities in the water supply and air. No, we're not saying fertilizer elements are unimportant to orchid growth. We are saying that they are important at rates a good deal lower than the Blue Marvel salesman would have us believe. Let me put it another way: if in the course of a year you apply 1/2 ounce of Blue Marvel 20% formulation to each 6 inch pot, you've fertilized the farm at more than 2.5 tons per acre and that, for our city friends, will grow you a LOT of grits.
Not only do we find recommended rates high, we find one batch of goodies in the Blue Marvel bag and another batch of goodies in the orchid plant. Commercial fertilizers, as noted, are mighty serious about N-P-K ratios, trace elements, micro-nutrients and such. Orchid plants, on the other hand, are concerned primarily with C (Carbon), H (Hydrogen) and O (Oxygen). Most everything connected with an orchid plant is a carbohydrate. So where do orchids get the C, H and O building blocks? They make or derive them on their own. Hydrogen and Oxygen are obtained primarily from water and Carbon is obtained from air in the form of Carbon Dioxide (CO2). These elements are dissociated and recombined through the magic of photosynthesis which converts energy from sunlight to power an orchid's amazing chemical wizardry. So are we saying orchids do not need fertilizer? No. Many essential orchid functions will not occur or will not be well done if certain elements are missing. Nitrogen is the great growth stimulator; Potassium stores prodigious amounts of energy. Orchids need many chemical elements but they need most of them in modest amounts.
There are several points to be considered at this stage. First, we need to develop a concept that we can only help our plants do what they do so well on their own: make carbohydrates. In general terms, orchids store starches and combust sugars to manage their energy needs. Clever devils always, orchids have little trouble converting starch to sugar and sugar to starch in a wondrous alchemy. Carbohydrate building blocks come from the air and water, not from the Blue Marvel bag. In the CHO process, however, many things are involved: enzymes, solar energy, amino acids and a host of factors. This is not the place to go into all that, but the process is intensely interesting. There is a miracle in every plant and the more you study plants, the more you will appreciate the little life factory entrusted to your care. Back to CHO, orchids need fertilizer help on a regular basis BUT they need it more on the order of vitamins than as the blue plate special every day.
Which brings us to another axiom: manage water and the plant will manage everything else. Orchid plants use water for many things. Some is dissociated when received and the Hydrogen portion is stored in Hydrogen receptor cells for future use in the plant's manufacturing business. The remaining Oxygen is, for the most part, released into the atmosphere so that orchids, like most plants, are said to freshen the air. Gas exchange occurs through openings or pores which are primarily in the underside of the orchid leaf. These openings are called stomata, and they open and close in response to plant transpiration rates and they have much to do with conservation of water within the plant. They also permit oxygen and water vapor to escape from the plants as waste and they admit Carbon Dioxide into the plant for use as a building material. Using energy from sunshine, plants combine the Hydrogen stored earlier with the Carbon Dioxide and make long chain carbohydrates called sugar and starch. There are many forms of sugar and starch, each meeting a specialized need. For our purposes, we need to know that plants can store starch and combust sugars. Not only this, they can convert starch to sugar and sugar to starch virtually at will to meet energy needs. When our plant finally consumes sugar, it is done through a combustion process that produces gaseous water as a by-product. AHA! We say: full circle. Nope. This by-product water in vapor form is secreted from the plant, removing impurities and adjusting temperature on the way out. Then the plant takes in fresh water, fresh Carbon Dioxide and fresh nutrients and trace elements of endless variety to start the whole process again.
We cannot conclude a discussion of orchid nutrition without mentioning orchid roots. These wonderful appendages anchor the plant and collect food and water from a wide-ranging system. Epiphytic orchid roots are typically multi-layer corky sheaths with a thin, stringy true root inside. The outer covering is called velamen (ve-LAY-men), not vellum, a rough paper, nor even velum, the skirt of a jellyfish umbrella. The velamen sounds like an antacid commercial: it can absorb many times its own weight in water and nutrient each time it is irrigated. One may actually watch this happen on a nice, fat Vanda root as the velamen tissue changes from waxy white to a clear or mottled green. Observe this response at an early opportunity, for the rate at which the change occurs will provide guidance on how long one should apply water when irrigating. "Faster than a speeding bullet" should NOT describe the end of the hose! Give the root tissue time to thoroughly engorge, whether flushing or feeding. Roots will also provide great insight on the general health of each plant. "Good roots, good plants" should reduce the matter to basics. When gently treated with moderate doses of food, frequent flushing and careful regard for humidity an orchid root fuels the "sugar maker" that in turn powers our plants. Treat each root with respect; treat each plant with restraint. That's an old formula in the plant business, but it all boils down to the fact they prosper in spite of us. Help your plant to a good meal but don't feed it.
Ed Wright, The Wright Company ©
Go Back to IndexTHE WRIGHT COMPANY
GREENHOUSE SPECIALTIES
223 LARKWOOD
SAN ANTONIO, TX 78209-2909
PH: 210-824-0823; FAX: 210-824-9657SOME THOUGHTS ON THE NUTRIENT NEEDS OF FINE PLANTS ©
NUTRIENT NEEDS: We tried for a long time to find a plain language list of nutrient elements of value to plants. When we couldn't find such a list, we began gathering notes and, over the years, we refined these notes by talking to plant people and by listening to the plants themselves. The results are shared with you not as facts, but as things we've found useful. We hope they'll help you, too.
NITROGEN (N): The key element in the N-P-K fertilizer formula. The basic growth element. An important ingredient of proteins and chlorophyll, it is the primary initiator of growth activity. The availability of nitrogen determines the 'thrift' of a plant. Although nearly 4/5 of the atmosphere is nitrogen, little of this is directly available to plants grown in ornamental horticulture. When nitrogen is deficient, plants are stunted, foliage is off-color (usually lighter than normal) and new growth matures or hardens off too early. Excess nitrogen produces soft, dark growth and inhibits flowering. Nitrogen availability is enhanced at pH 5.0-6.0.
PHOSPHOROUS (P): Essential in production of nucleic acids and proteins; present in several intermediate steps of photosynthesis and respiration; a constituent of phospho-lipids which may affect the permeability of cell tissue. Deficiency leads to dark, stunted growth; excess causes collapse of cells - the plant goes limp but is not wilted. Availability to plants is much impaired by alkaline (pH 8.0 or higher) solutions.
POTASSIUM (K): A catalyst which is essential for growth but which is little understood. Potassium must be present for the formation of many organic compounds, most of which do not contain potassium but won't form without it. Potassium seems to be the 'pacemaker' for many enzymes. Deficiency results in dwarfness, with the edges of leaves scorched and dead. Symptoms of excess are almost never seen.
CARBON (C), HYDROGEN (H) & OXYGEN (0): The building blocks, bricks and mortar from which plant structures are made. Strangely enough, we growers don't supply these elements directly to the plant. They are obtained photosynthetically for the most part. Light, air movement and temperature are critical to the conditions which enable plants to assimilate these essential elements.
SULFUR (S) : An essential element in the development of proteins. It is also the great "combiner", helping to transport other elements through the plant circulatory system. Deficiency causes weak or stunted growth and makes optimum pH harder to maintain. Excess is not often seen, but may cause lesions or 'scabs' on exposed roots. Normally available in ample amounts from commercial fertilizers, sulfur can easily be added by dissolving the water soluble form in irrigation water. Restrict use in hot weather, as sulfur can burn tissue exposed to sunlight when temperatures rise. Best availability is from solutions in the range of pH 5.0- 6.0
CALCIUM (Ca): Necessary to cell wall formation and as a regulator in many cell activities. Normally obtained from water, it may also be supplied from bone meal, dolomite lime, marble chips and gypsum. Deficiency causes new growth to be stunted and distorted, especially new roots.
TRACE ELEMENTS: As the name implies, needed in extremely small amounts. Somewhat like vitamins in human nutrition, trace elements serve as catalysts to initiate or enhance chemical reactions. Use the chelated form if available so plants can readily use the small dosages applied.
IRON (Fe): Essential for the production of chlorophyll. Source: ferrous sulfate (copperas) or in highly refined chelated forms like Sprint 330.
MAGNESIUM (Mg): Required for respiration and to enhance use of other elements. Orchids seem to have a low requirement for magnesium, while tomatoes and gardenias have very high requirements. Source: magnesium sulfate (Epsom salts) applied as a drench: 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, two or three times a year. Pour over the entire plant, leaves and all. May be applied by adding very small amounts to each batch of fertilizer, but constant feed is best restricted to areas low in magnesium, such as much of the Gulf coast.
ZINC (Zn): Promotes synthesis of indole acetic acid, a growth regulator. Source: mix fertilizer in a galvanized bucket once in a while. Many fungicides contain zinc compounds, and may be applied per label instructions. Most plants need little zinc; pecans are the exception, and need it a couple of times each growing season.
MICRONUTRIENTS: We'll level with you: we think most people include these in plant nutrition discussions because (a) everyone else does and (b) they don't see how any of them could hurt and one or two might even help. Things like boron, cobalt, manganese, molybdenum, etc. A good well-balanced fertilizer will contain these as impurities in the other chemicals. If needed, dosages will be so small us average growers can't dispense them anyway. Leave these to the laboratory unless there is a known, specific deficiency in your area. Ask your county agent or agricultural extension service for help BEFORE you supplement any of these.
HOW TO APPLY: In our opinion, the best way to feed your plants is to apply a DILUTE solution of a good, balanced fertilizer with pH reduced to about 6.0 every time you feed. Use low rates, feed often AND have one fresh water flush between each feeding. We think you'll be pleased with the results. Clients, use your custom feeding program - always current to meet your needs.
OVER-FERTILIZING WITH NITROGEN INHIBITS BLOOM AND CAUSES SOFT, WEAK GROWTH.
What do we do? We give our plants Rodder's Wundergrow once a week. Two months prior to blooming season, we give mature plants Rodder's Wunderbloom once a week in lieu of Wundergrow. Wunder products are always applied the day after a thorough flushing with plain water. In addition, we feed 100 PPM of Peters' 20-10-20 Peat-Lite Special monthly in winter, every two weeks in summer, always adjusting pH to 6.0. That's more food than Jerry Rodder recommends but we have lots of light and air movement and the plants seem to like the extra meals. Of course, ours is a production house and we are concerned with growing blocks of plants for client studies as opposed to optimum plants for exhibition.
Thanks for your interest in better growing and The Wright Company! Please let us know if we can help. If you insist, we'll do a bit of business in nursery and greenhouse consulting, custom hybridizing and product development for the horticultural trades. Clients, please remember your feeding program will be recomputed free at any time. Just Fax us your lab report and we will Fax back the adjustment you need to make.
TO ALL: We would appreciate your respect for our copyright - this is proprietary material furnished to clients for their use and may not be reproduced without permission of The Wright Company. Many thanks, and good growing!
Let us know if we can help.
Go Back to Index
ORCHID NUTRITION TRANSCRIPTPresent were 18:
James
marylois
AndyNVA
KB Barrett
zimelza
RichardWPB
nodosa (Ed Wright)
CarolHoldren
Evlyn
ChuckMyr
sparkysteve
JCY8S (John)
peterlin
Ellen
Uncle Earl
prankster d (Susan)
Doug
Kennodosa (Ed Wright in San Antonio Tx)
The material furnished for Orchid Nutrition contains the basics of our program: feed light, flush often. Watch the pH and listen to the plants. Let me start nutrition by saying the fertilizer equivalent we mentioned was 2.5 tons per acre. The internet doesn't like the one-half symbol! Also, roots give us insight, not inside.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Ed--may I ask one question?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Please do, Steve - and everyone.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
You mentioned pH---do you think the pool water makes my plants happy--I have no idea what tap water or the pool water is.paulav (Paula in Boca Raton, Florida)
Steve, do you really use pool water on your orchids? But then, pool water is probably better quality than the stuff that comes out of the tap in Boca!sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
I don't 'water' my plants with pool water---but if I see one that's dry I'll dunk it.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve - I'd think pool water would be OK for plants IF you don't have to carry a heavy load of chemicals in it. Some pool algaecides are toxic to plants (usually ones that contain copper sulphates). Otherwise, the pH is a little high but probably usable.peterlin
I'm looking for a water soluable fungicide/batericide to work with my fertilizer injector. Phytan 27 is expensive.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter, I don't know why Phyton27 (Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate) would be much more effective than Consan20 (Benzylkonium Chloride).sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Peterlin---there is a pool algicide from home depot that is used alot---it's 1/2 strength of Phytan or the other one.Evlyn
That HtH didn't work in my cool pad. [I don't know what Evlyn means by HtH (a swimming pool chemical).peterlin
Sparky, are you talking about Physan 20, RD-20, that kind of stuff??sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Yeah--same chemicals.peterlin
Has anyone heard of diathane ? Is it powder like fungicide? Ed - isn't Consan 20, RD-20 just some bleach water?sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Peter---I don't think there's chlorine in them at all.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter - the products mentioned are not bleach water and do not contain bleach as such.paulav (Paula in Boca Raton, Florida)
Peter, I think Diathane is a fungicide powder - some growers dust their vandas with it.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
I think you might be happier with Zyban (Mancozeb & Thiophanate-methyl as a general use fungicide. It is a synergistic contact/systemic formulation. Are we through with Orchid Nutrition?sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
No---they didn't let you start!Uncleearl (Earl from Vacaville, CA)
Your pre-discussion handout pretty well covered it! Good writing. One comment on the handout. P is P2O5 (subscripts) and K is K2O.nodosa (Ed in SAT) To clarify: P2O5 is Phosphoric Acid and K2O is Potash. The P and K on the fertilizer container are equivalents expressed as a per cent.
Evlyn
Ed --know of source for Consan 20?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Sorry, I am not prepared to discuss fungicides this evening. Are there any more questions about nutrition before I leave?121133ellen
How much fertlizer is appropriate for Vandas at this time here in New York? Also how often should they be fertilized?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Ellen - Vandas take about the same rate of fertilizer as other orchids. Because they are in very open media, as a rule, you need to flush them more often and feed them more often but the rate at each feeding is about the same. Some very good Vandas are grown in New York - no special requirement. Just remember, when the plant slows down, so must the hose, but control amount with frequency, not adjustment of formula.marylois
I've fallen into that pattern with all my plants, Ed....no fertilizer change...just more or less water depending on needs...that automatically makes more water/fert in warm weather, less in damp/colder weather.nodosa (Ed in SAT) Makes more sense than endless adjustments to mixture.
sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Ed---can plants become 'junkies' with too much fertilizer?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve has a good point. Yes, plants can be overfed and many are. Fertilizer helps the plant manufacture its own food. There is no practical way to feed an orchid directly with any fertilizer.Evlyn
Don't think I got the 'handout'. So do Catts need anything besides a balanced fertilizer? Speak on manganese and magnesium.121133ellen
Does a high nitrogen fertilizer produce weaker growths in the odont family?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
We see many references to 30-10-10 for orchids and we caution against EVER using it. High Nitrogen stimulates vegetative growth and inhibits bloom.121133ellen
I know Marilyn Mirro fertlized several times a week but her temp. was much higher than mine. Is there a relationship between temp. and feeding? Should you change fertilizers alternating between 20-20-20 and a high middle number fertilizer?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Ellen, there is always a connection between temp and fertilizer. That's because high temp comes with high sun. The more light, the more food a plant can make and the more fertilizer it needs to help. Again, this is more often, not a higher rate.peterlin
Ed - do you really like wundergrow?? How does wundergrow compare to Dynagro?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter - yes, we do like Wundergrow. There is no comparison between Wundergrow and Dynagro. Two different products entirely.peterlin
Oh? Both are fertilizer.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
I have used 20-20-20 peters for 18 years I tried the other scrap---but it takes too much time and I really never saw any benefits.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve, you might consider Peters 20-10-20 Peat Lite Special or 20-10-20 General Purpose Special next time you buy. Neither contains any urea form Nitrogen. The Peat Lite Special has a little better trace element mix for our purpose.121133ellen
Where do you get Wundergrow? I don't think I've seen it.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Check wundergrow a http://www.wundergrow.com/peterlin
Sparky - My only concern now is that soluable fertilizer don't work too well with fertilizer injector.121133ellen
I used Dynagrow and felt the new growths were weaker than before I changed. Went back to Peters 20-20-20.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Excuse me - soluble fertilizer is the only fertilizer that will work in an injector. Have I missed something?marylois
Why not, Peter - is it settling?peterlin
Lois - Yes, it is settling. Sorry I was not clear. There are always solid settling in the container. Although I'm seeing color change in the water, I don't know if I'm seeing just the dye or actual fertilizer.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter, if the settled material is white and slick feeling, it is probably gypsum or something else essentially Calcium carbonate. Used as a filler in many fertilizers, especially farm and lawn formulations. Peters should not have this.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Peterlin, is injector same as hose end sprayer? I use a hose end sprayer and dump it back when I'm done.Uncleearl (Earl from Vacaville, CA)
Peter - What's the pH of your water? And what product are you using again?marylois
Ed, tell us the proper sequence in adding water, fertilizer, pH adjuster to one's concentrate.peterlin
I'm using Dosmatic and currently Miracle Grow.. I added the so called soluable fertilizer in a one gallon container. I'm seeing slimy settings in the container.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
We don't use Miracle Grow but that sure sounds like chalk filler, as it is called in the trade.Evlyn
Put a little RD 20 or like stuff in it, Peter.Uncleearl (Earl from Vacaville, CA)
Peter - I would check your pH. Or you got a bad batch of fert.peterlin
Uncle Earl - My water pH is like 8 something.. I thought fertilizer will bring down the water pH.Uncleearl (Earl from Vacaville, CA)
That's what I thought. Most soluble ferts. will precipitate in alkaline solute.marylois
Peter - how long are you letting concentrate sit around before it's used up?peterlin
Lois - 2 weeks or more. 1 gallon can last a month for me in the winter time.marylois
There's your problem, Peter...best to use it up in a day...a week TOPS! Stuff grows in the unused solution. To last a week, add 1T Physan to the solution when mixed.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
There was a question about magnesium before I got booted. Orchids don't have a very high requirement for magnesium. Tomatoes do, for example, but not orchids. Good fertilizers will meet orchid needs nicely, but magnesium is friendly - hard to add too much. Put a teaspoon or two of Epsom Salts in a gallon of water a couple of times a year if you like. One exception is when leaves yellow badly. Then a little magnesium and iron may offset chlorosis.Evlyn
Ed, Manganese?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Evlyn - manganese is a trace element and should stay that way. Unless you have a very peculiar situation, do not add these minor elements on your own. They are applied in TINY amounts to meet specific needs.121133ellen
Ed, with nobile dendrobiums, when do you start feeding with a fert. with a high middle #?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Ellen - re high middle numbers. We never feed high middle number bloom booster formulations. A plant well grown has nothing to do but bloom. Grow it well and you won't need hoopla to enjoy the flowers. Re nobile Dendrobiums, when we grew them, we never gave them a rest period - they just defoliate and look bad. They went out just as soon as the weather was frost proof and stayed out until real frost danger. Ours always got lots of morining and evening full sun and did very well.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
I agree with you on that, Ed!nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Somebody asked about how you add fertilizer to a solution. We add the fertilizer first, then acidify the solution to meet pH needs. If fertilizer has a chalk (calcium carbonate) filler, it may raise pH. Most fully soluble fertilizers lower pH. Whatever, you know you want all the fert in the mix, so you add that, then add acid as required.peterlin
Lois - does Physan lower the PH? You know the Citric Acid from the grocery store is expensive. One little can is several dollars. I bought Sulfuric acid in HomeDepot..but I was afraid to use it.digorchids
Y'all might look at the little packages of coffee pot cleaners in grocery stores, some are pure citric acid, USP 100%nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Better read the label. Lots of coffee pot cleaners are Cream of Tartar.Evlyn
Citric acid is about $65 in the 50lb bag--put it that way.Uncleearl (Earl from Vacaville, CA)
Peter, are you injecting Physan and fert at the same time? I would recommend against mixing fungicides and fertilizers.peterlin
Uncle Earl - No, I'm not. I usually don't mix things together. Maybe I should after tonight's conversation. It's really good anyway because I can fertilize and spray fungicide at the same time.
marylois
No, Physan gets the pathogens. Re citric acid, ask folks who are chemists for a source. Peter...you do not mix fertilize with fungicide!...I clean the bucket the solution is mixed in, wipe it out with Physan on a paper towel and add 1T to the concentrate which is unappreciable in the final product, but enough to keep half a bucket or so clean for a couple days. The only fungicide I ever heard of that could be mixed with a fertilizer was Natriphene...and you can't get it any more.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter - keep your chemicals separate! Some of these new products make long chain polymers that gum up everything. Also, most insecticides and fungicides are very touchy and should be mixed and applied absolutely by instructions. If you have to adjust pH for an insecticide to avoid alkaline hydrolysis, add the acid first, then the insecticide.peterlin
I haven't messed with citric acid yet because I don't have a PH meter yet. The only reason I know about PH is because the guy from city water checked it.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
You can buy a very reliable pH meter with buffering solutions to calibrate it for well under $100. In other words, for the price of a couple of nice plants, you can be sure. Why guess?marylois
Smart move - I'm afraid of sulfuric also. Wish it was as easy to find the citric acid...you have to hunt for a source.peterlin
Lois - I thought RD-20 or Physan20 is a fungicide?? Oh I get it. Just add 1 T to keep the concentrate clean. Thanks.marylois
It is a bactericide, isn't it ED (Physan). Is the 1 T I'm putting in my concentrate a mistake?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Physan 20 label says it is a general bactericide, fugicide, viricide and algaecide. Really: that's what it says. And I, no doubt, will be chosen Queen of the May.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
I've seen too many people over the years spend too much time on chemicals and don't consider that culture is the problem.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve has the best poop you've seen tonight: you don't get good growing out of a bottle, bag or box!sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Ed---a little statement I use is 'Who nurtures plants out in the wild?'marylois
Steve - my reply to that is 'I wonder how many plants actually BLOOM in the wild?' Too hot, too cold, bugs, disease, grazing beasts.......no wonder there is so much seed!nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve - you wouldn't believe what plants eat out in the wild. Good point, though. In nature, the feed rate is probably about 15 PPM, where 1 tsp per gal of 20-10-20 is about 240 PPM. Quite a difference!nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter, why would you avoid using Sulfuric acid? Good as any, just dangerous to handle. Acid is always added to water, never the other way around. Swimming pool acid is a lot safer and cheaper. Use that and don't worry. Key thing is get a good pH tester and use it.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Dr. Wright---what is the best pH for orchids?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve, I yield to higher authority. Tropical rain water is pH 5.6 - 6.2 so we try to stay at 6.0. Lois, I missed your note on adding Physan, but no, we don't ever put it in with fertilizer.peterlin
Ed - Sulfuric acid is used for drainage. I did not know to look for swimming pool acid. I'll do that next time. Should I add 1 tablespoon sulfuric acid per gallon?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Swimming pool acid is Muriatic Acid, Hydrochloric Acid, HCl, etc. Don't worry about the chlorides: you won't need enough to matter in order to lower your pH. Much cheaper to use than citric: about two bucks a gallon, the chains will be better than that.peterlin
Harry (Chula Orchids) said to prepare 5 gallons of concentrate for dosmatic..and it's okay to let it sit. But I'm using only 1 gallon. But unless I water my plants thoroughly, one gallon last quite a while.bmtorchids (Barbara in N. Ca.)
Ed, do you water or mist your Vandas, when raining and foggy?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Barbara - we don't mist Vandas or anything else, fair weather or foul. If they need water, we drench. Our Vandas spend 7 or 8 months outside and they get watered at least once a day, fair or foul. Inside for the winter, they get watered every time anything gets watered. Fed one time, flushed the next.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Re watering/feeding plants. If you don't plan to soak them, don't do anything. Sprays, spritz and all the cutesies put small amounts of free water on plants and this quickly evaporates leaving dissolved salts. These, in turn, burn the plant tissue. Drench 'em or skip 'em but don't piddle around.marylois
I'm doing that one right! Using between 100-200 gal of water each time.peterlin
100-200 gal..that's a lot of water. I use about 30 gals on 1500 plants.marylois
Betcha you're accumulating salts, Peter my friend....I'm using that 1-200 gallons on 700 plants.nodosa (Ed in SAT) added: The important thing is how long the hose stays over each pot, not how much total water is used. My bet is most folks hold the hose over each individual plant less than 10 seconds. Figure how long it takes you to water, then divide by the approximate number of plants. The answer will scare you. Gotta give each plant time to flush, then absorb a skin full of water or nutrient mix.
peterlin
Lois - I may have...My plants are underwatered. But I got my hot water heater installed..so I'm really going to drench everything.. I tried not to water too much because I use pro-mix.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter, we have hot water in the greenhouse and on the irrigation lines but we only use it in the summer time. Why would you heat water now? The purpose of a heater is to reduce the differential between air/leaf temperature and irrigation water temp. In winter, they tend to be about equal. Summer is when you get the big differentials.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Peter - the peatlite mixes like ProMix are notorious for building up salts. You might not need to water often, but when you do, flood the pot and leach out the residual salts.bmtorchids (Barbara in N. Ca.)
Ed, I really like the Wunderbloom. All my Phals are in good bloom. Must try the Wundergrow next, since I still have the Dyno-gro.nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Barbara, we like Wunderbloom, too, but we are getting such great results with Wundergrow we hate to change. We still get many more blooms.sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
[http://members.wbs.net/homepages/s/p/a/sparkysteve.html] Am I bragging a little?nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Steve - the pix was great. I haven't seen that clone. Got knocked off the net getting back.digorchids
Hey, beautiful pic, Sparkypeterlin
Here is a picture taken with my digital camera - It's phal. viridis.. very small flower (about 1 inch or less).
http://www.phalaenopsis.net/gallery/new/virid_980125.jpgprankster d (susan from Oregon)
Great picture, Peter!nodosa (Ed in SAT)
Looks like the nutrition session is over. Thanks for inviting me.peterlin
Thank you, ED!prankster d (susan from Oregon)
Thanks, Ed!sparkysteve (of Boca Raton Florida)
Go Back to Index
Thanks, Ed--maybe I'll do some correction to my ph---you're GREAT!- 30 -
