I had no weekends during last two weeks in Laos. After a series of brainstorming project ideas in Vientiane we traveled by helicopter to Phonsavan, Xieng Khoang, from Phonsavan to Sam Nua, Hua Phan by car (6 hrs), from Sam Nua to Luangprabang by car (12hrs) and back to Vientiane by air. The Kip devaluated so fast that by the time I came back to Vientiane my stock of Kips lost 15% value.

The visibility was so low that I thought only about the latest crash in Xieng Khoang that killed the Chief of Staff of Vietnamese army, Gen. Dao Trong Lich.

Phonsavan surprises any visitor, including a Vietnamese like me, by incredible number of bomb craters and cases of cluster bomb unit (CBU) or so called "bombie". I wonder for how long the local metal scrap traders have been working in full capacity but bomb cases are seen everywhere. At the metal scrap shop I saw bombs of all kinds and all sizes plus artillery shells of all calibre. Lao friends said that the Americans had conducted 580,000 bombing missions on Lao soil during 1965-1973.

We spent two days in Phonsavan. I managed to visit famous Plain of Jars, the first wonder of Xieng Khoang and Laos.

The road connecting Phonsavan and Sam Nua is under completion by Vietnamese workers. I saw them every 20km. There was only one stop where we could have some sticky rice "Khao Nieu", Pho+? and some pieces of natural chicken (vs. caged chicks) and lots of flies. Most of the road
was so deserted that we were equipped a security man with his AK-47. However, the presence of people could be seen everywhere through numerous forest burns as the rainy season approached. Some burns went out of control. Then we understood why Vientiane sky was so hazy.

In Sam Nua I realized why there's a Vietnamese song "Co^ em Sa^`m Nu+a". In that remote mountainous town more than 1100 m above sea level, local girls look so beautiful with their fair complexion and rosy cheeks. Noodle shops near the market give Pho+? all day. One should order some rice and chicken in advance. A relatively clean hotel with hot water was so cheap: I paid 10 dollars for three nights.

Luang Prabang is a wonderful place. A lot of farang and Thai tourists invade local museum, Phousi mount, temples or nearby karstic sceneries. Tourist attractions are well kept. No beggars or souvenir kids to annoy the visitors.

Dinh 31/3/1999