Bengals (SBT or 4 generations removed and above) require the same care as any other domestic cat. This page will go over the basics of cat and bengal care. Foundation bengals have more specialized requirements (feeding, housing, breeding etc). This page is information just for bengals that are SBT's or at least 4 generations removed from the asian leopard cat.
Feeding Housing Vet Visits Feline Diseases Shots Kitten Shot Schedule Scratching Posts Transporting Bathing
Feeding (Includes Feeding and Watering)
You bengal eats the same as any domestic cat. Water should be available 24 hours a day and should be kept fresh and clean. Some bengals prefer to drink from running water sources (as well as play in them). I have water available at all times to my cats and change the water daily. One of the best things to do is to do is at the end of the day (or beginning whatever works for your schedule) is dump the leftover water out and wash the bowl in hot soapy water. Then rinse the bowl completely and refill. This ensures that your cat will always have fresh clean water.
There are several theories on what works best for feeding cats. Some prefer the "free feed" method (leaving food out at all times). Some feed 2 times a day. Some 3 times. I use the twice a day feeding for my cats. Kittens and growing cats should be fed more then 2 times a day though. Pregnant, nursing and growing kittens are free fed, where adults, neuters and non-pregnant females are fed twice a day. Make sure you pick a good high quality cat food for your cat, and if you have a kitten make sure it is a high quality kitten food. A good quality cat food has the main source of protein from a meat based item, not a corn or vegetable based item. Cats are carnivores and do need a higher protein requirement then dogs, so do not feed your cat dog food. However you decide to feed your cat (free feed, 2 times a day, etc) make sure the food is fresh and isn't molded, stale or outdated. If you feed canned food make sure you only leave it out long enough for the cat to eat. I do not recommend semi-moist foods as these contain high amounts of sugar and may cause diabetes if feed over long periods of time. My preference for feeding is dry food with occasional canned food (every other day my cats get canned food).
Some high quality foods available now are Purina Pro Plan, Science Diet, Iams (Iams has several varieties from Iams Cat to Eukanuba Cat), Waltham**, Authority, Natural Life**, and Innova**. I feed Innova dry and canned to my cats and have found it to be a wonderful cat food.
** Means it is an all natural cat food with no preservatives.
Housing
If you bought your cat as a pet then housing is easy, as it will probably have the run of your house. One thing to remember if you new pet is a kitten is that they are smaller and can get into places you wouldn't even think of. Kitten-proofing your home is a good idea before you bring your new pet home. This mean's crawling around your house on your hands and knees (this way you see things from the ground up) and look for things a kitten can chew (cords, plants, small toys etc) or get into (that small hole under the recliner, or where the cupboards in your house meet the wall). Kittens are like children and while going around your house remember that if a kitten can get it in their mouth they will, or if they fit inside it they will surely get inside there (including that hole where they were fixing your electric, I had a kitten slip through a 4 inch hole and had to make a 12 inch hole just to get her back out). Also make sure that any shelves you have are securely fastened to the walls, I have known more then one cat to test his luck and try to make it to the top of a book shelf only to bring the whole thing down. Bengals are fond of heights and will try to perch on your highest spots so make sure the cat either cannot get to these or has plenty of jumping spaces so they can (after breeding bengals for 3 years I have given up on owning nick knacks or have exiled them to the highest most inaccessible shelves). Remember that a shelf that looks to high for a 12 week old kitten may look like an invigorating challenge for a 8 month old adolescent.
I recommend that people start their new pet out in one room (this is very important if it is a kitten as kittens have short legs and may get "lost" in the house and not be able to find the litterbox in time and have an accident). Once the cat is secure and settled in slowly let them explore the house. This lets the cat learn at his own pace so he doesn't get startled with being taken from his old home and thrust into this huge strange environment. If your new cat is a kitten and you have a rather large house, you may want to add a few extra litterboxes until it gets older and can make it back to the room where the litter box is. Whatever room you start your cat in should have their food and water dishes, a litterbox, and a hiding place (this could be a box, a cat carrier, or a cat post with the hidey hole).
Vet Visits
Any cat you get should go to the vet within 7 days of purchase. You should have the shots updated (if needed), FeLV/FIV testing done, a Fecal test, and a general check up. This is also a good time to discuss with your vet any extra things that need to be done (some areas cats are given heartworm medicine, and rabies shots) as well as set a date for altering (some vets alter at 3 months, others wait until 6 months). Any questions you have about your cats health should be asked. Some Vet's are even knowledgeable in feline behavioral problems if this becomes necessary. If you cat hasn't had all of its shots you vet will set up an appointment for you to bring your cat back until the series of shots are done. Many breeders require that you at least take your new cat to a vet, where others require proof that you have (photocopy of the receipt of payment etc). This protects both of you should something be wrong with the cat.
Every year you should take your pet back to the Vet for an Annual Visit as well as their yearly Shots. If your cat is indoors and you haven't brought any other cats into your household there is no need for yearly FeLV/FIV testing. But if you do have indoor/outdoor cats, let your cat outdoors (not recommended) or bring in another cat you should have your cat tested again for FeLV/FIV as well as a fecal test done (I have all of my cat's tested yearly for FeLV/FIV and do a yearly Fecal test).
Anytime your cat gets sick or you are worried about how they are acting, you should make an appointment to see your vet. They will be able to find out what is causing the problem. They may prescribe medication to your cat, before you leave make sure you understand the dosage and how it is to be administered. If it is in pill form ask if you can crush the pills or if they have to be given whole (ask for a demonstration on how to give a pill if you do not know how). If you can crush the pill up then you can give it in some canned food or with your cats favorite treat. If it must be given whole (some worming pills must not be punctured or crushed before giving) then you will have to hold your cat and administer the pill and make sure the cat does not chew on it. If you are given a liquid medication ask your vet how to administer it. Some liquid medications taste good, others are bitter. I always try to see if a liquid medication can be mixed with fish oil as this hides the taste of the medicine and the cats all lick it up readily.
You will also need to see your vet when your cat is 3 to 6 months of age to have them altered. This is a simple operation and most breeders require this to be done before 6 months of age in order to receive your blue slip (kitten papers if your cat is registered). Many breeders are now holding the blue slips as well as pedigree's until proof of alteration is received.
Feline Diseases
Bengals are subject to the same feline diseases as all cats, brief descriptions are given here, if you suspect your cat has any of these contact your vet immediately.
Rabies: This is a lethal disease of all mammals and is transmitted by direct contact with the saliva of an infected animal. Many states require the rabies vaccination in all cats and dogs over 4 months of age. This is a serious disease in that it can be passed on to humans through bites.
Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV): This virus causes a complex, often fatal disease in cats and it can manifest in many different ways. FeLV may suppress the cats immune system and cause anemia as well as cancer of the lungs and kidneys. Often the only outward signs are depression, weight loss, gradual health degeneration and lethargy. FeLV is contracted through bites and transmitted from mother to kitten at birth. There are varied feelings on FeLV testing and vaccinations and you should talk with your vet and see what they recommend for your cat.
Feline Panleukopenia Virus (FPV): Also known as cat distemper or feline enteritis. FPV is one of the most common and severe viral diseases of cats. It is lethal in kittens and can cause the death of adult cats. Symptoms include severe diarrhea, vomiting and dehydration. Annual vaccination is essential in preventing FPV and should begin at 6 to 8 weeks of age, annual booster vaccinations are essential.
Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (FVR): One of the several upper respiratory diseases of cats. FVR is typically manifested by sneezing, pussy running eyes, nasal discharge and redness of the membranes of the eyes. Cats with this disease often dehydrate rapidly and have no appetite. Rhinotracheitis may be accompanied by pneumonia witch can be fatal, especially in young kittens. Annual vaccination is recommended.
Feline Calici Virus (FCV): This virus causes erosions on the tongue, lips, gums, nostrils, throat, and sometimes eyelid membranes. It is often complicated by reduced appetite and dehydration. It usually runs a relatively short course and is rarely fatal. Annual vaccination is recommended.
Feline Chlamydiosis (Pneumonitis): A disease that is manifested by sneezing and inflammation of the membranes of the nostrils and the eyes. Caused by the Chlamydia organism that is neither a virus nor a bacterium. The infection produces symptoms similar to FCV and FVR. Annual vaccination is recommended.
Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP): A lethal viral disease of cats, FIP symptoms in the early stages include a persistent fever, but other signs are very obscure. There is no known successful treatment for the disease. A vaccination is available but is not recommended except in high-risk situations. You should discuss FIP vaccinations with your Vet before having your cat vaccinated.
Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV): Similar to FeLV in that it suppresses the cats immune system, but unlike FeLV it does not cause cancer. Symptoms can appear to indicate the cat is infected with FeLV (secondary infections, anemia, and low white blood cell counts). Many cats diagnosed with FeLV may be infected with FIV. The likely mode of transmission of FIV is through bite wounds, there is some speculation that the mother may be able to transmit it to her kittens but this is unproven as of yet. There is no vaccination to prevent FIV, but there is a test to indicate if the cat is infected with the FIV virus.
Shots
There are currently shots available for all viral diseases except FIV. The FIP shot is controversial and many breeders and owners do not administer this unless the vet deemed it necessary. Today many of the shots come with several vaccinations in one. You commonly see 3 in 1 feline shots (FPV, FVR, and FCV) and 5 in 1 shots (FeLV, FPV, FVR, FCV, and Pneumonitis). Sometimes you may see rabies bundled into one of the above. Rabies, FeLV, FPV, FVR, FCV and Pneumonitis are liquid vaccinations that are injected under the skin (SQ. Injection) or into the Muscle (IM Injection). The FIP vaccination is a liquid that is administered in drops into the nose.
Shots work by giving your cat a mutated version of the virus so that the cat builds antibodies against the virus. This is why you should never vaccinate a sick or pregnant cat. Kittens often have to have a series of shots (6, 10, 14, and 16 weeks) to make sure they have adequate protection against the virus. Remember vaccinations are not 100% effective. If your cat's immune system is depressed (a cold, injury, or stress) you cat could contract one of these viruses if exposed. Never take a sick cat anywhere with you except to the vet, and then make sure it stays in a carry and don't let strangers pet or play with him. This will help to keep him from being exposed while his immune system is down.
Kitten Shot Schedule
Age Vaccinate For
6 Weeks FPV (Distemper), FVR (Rhinotracheitis), and FCV (Calici)
10 Weeks FPV, FVR, FCV, and Chlamydia (Pneumonitis).
14 Weeks FPV, FVR, FCV, Chlamydia, and FeLV (Leukemia).
18 Weeks FeLV, Rabies (this varies by state for Rabies, contact your Veterinary for your state requirements)
Adult (Annual) FPV, FVR, FCV, Chlamydia, FeLV, and Rabies.
If your vet recommends FIP vaccinations they are given at 16 weeks & 19 weeks of age and then yearly.
Remember this may change according to your Veterinary. Always listen to what they recommend.
Scratching Posts
A scratching post is vital for a new kitten. I do not recommend declawing and own 12 bengals of which only one is declawed (I purchased her that way) and my furniture is not in shreds like many think. A properly constructed scratching post is more appealing to a cat then a couch. If you can try not to get a post covered in carpet (this can confuse a kitten who sees he is allowed to scratch the carpet on the post and then gets in trouble for scratching the same stuff he walks on in the house). Sisal rope wrapped around an upright makes a great scratching post and most cats love them. Natural tree limbs also work great and many companies are not using them in the construction of custom scratching posts. When purchasing a scratching post for your kitten get something that is appealing to the kitten. Many have hidey holes in the base or even up several levels that the kitten could hide in when he wants security. Get something stable that will last when the kitten grows up, nothing turns a cat off of a scratching post more then having it fall over onto him. Keep in mind that the small kitten you have today can grow up to be a 12 to 18 pound adult. A kitten running and jumping onto a post may not budge it, but the same post with a 15 pound cat hitting it full run may fall over, turning the cat off from using the post and onto using your favorite leather couch. As a kitten you must teach him that the post is his to scratch on. Sit the kitten on the post and scratch it using your nails showing him what it is for. If you catch the kitten scratching the furniture (or something else that is forbidden) sternly tell him NO, pick him up and place him on the scratching post. Try sprinkling cat nip onto the post and then scratching it with your nails (most cats roll and scratch at catnip). Make the post the most appealing thing for the kitten to scratch on, and your furniture the least. Give him treats on it, play with him on it, and praise him when he uses it properly.
Transporting
I always recommend transporting a cat inside a cat carrier. This is the safest for your pet. They are fairly inexpensive ($14 to $40) and will last the life of your cat if cared for properly. Don't make the mistake of buying a small carrier for your kitten, as they will soon outgrow it. Purchase one that will fit your cat into adulthood (Most medium sized carriers work for cats unless you have an unusually large cat - 15 + pounds- then you will need the large size). This will work when transporting your cat to the vet, to a cat show, to the groomers, with you when you travel, and even on the airline (if you get an airline approved carrier, most sold now are). The carrier can also be used at home if you don't want your cat into something or if your doors are going to be open for an extended amount of time. A carrier also makes a good hiding spot for a new kitten or cat, just take the door off, drape a towel over the holes in the side and set it in a secluded area. Also if your cat is sick you can place a low wattage heating pad under the carrier to provide extra warmth.
Bathing (Grooming)
If you bought a show alter or plan on showing your kitten or cat (or if your cat got into something and just needs cleaned) you will need to give him a bath. Bathing a cat is not hard if you get the cat used to it early. A show kitten is used to bathing (I bath all my cats before a show). First thing you will need everything handy, you do not want to get up and run around looking for a towel with a soaped up kitty in the bathtub or sink. You should have 2 absorbent towels, a washcloth for doing the face, cat (or kitten) shampoo, a vinegar rinse solution (helps remove all soap in the fur, made with one part vinegar to 5 parts water), a spray attachment (for bathtub or sink) or cup, cotton balls, and sterile opthamalic ointment (to put in the eyes to keep soap from irritating them). Before bathing you should clip the cats nails and brush them to make sure they have not mats or knots in there hair (very uncommon with bengals). Fill the sink or tub with warm water and add the shampoo. You can place cotton balls in the ears to keep water out of them and the sterile ointment in the eyes to keep soap from irritating them. Set your pet in the water and talk soothingly to them and get them wet with the shampoo water mixture. Once they are completely soaked rub them to make the shampoo foam up. Take the washcloth and wash the face and ears (do not drip water down into the ears). Drain the soapy water and gently rinse your cat of all soap. Once you think you got all the soap out of their fur, pour the vinegar mix over them, making sure to soak all areas of the body (avoid the face and head), and let it set for a minute. Then rinse your cat again till you smell no trace of the vinegar. Remove your pet from the sink or tub and towel dry them completely (or as much as they let you) and then confine your pet to a warm draft free clean room (they will rub against the floor, couch, plants etc) until completely dry.
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