Journal From Rosi: Charleston, SC to Horta, Azores, Portugal

28 May 99 Wind from S 12 Kts sunny some clouds Boat speed 5.9 Full sails

Within 3 days, (after departure) we were in 25 kts wind and were tossed and objects became projectiles if not tied down, cabinet doors started opening up. It was impossible to change clothes, sit on a toilet, put a cup to your mouth. I was throwing up. Jim (who never does) was throwing up frequently. Sleep became a "passing out" for minutes at a time. Everything was wet: clothes, beds, etc. - at least it was not cold.

Within another day or so, we adapted to motion and I learned to sleep in a wet bed. Our biggest help was the Windpilot. Although needing help now an then, he steered through the largest waves and highest gusts (as far as we know, no greater than 32 kts). Land was long out of sight and now we saw ot talked to ships. A sailing vessels "Liberty" to NY obtaining a weather forecast. Motor Vessel "Colorado" (675') Oil tanker "Lara" - a Russian vessel who wanted to know what we were doing "out here" and how we will deal with storms - very friendly and actually called us back after ½ hour for more info. Navy aircraft carrier Nasser and Chinooks coming into "flat" water. Sunny days allowed us to dry out, eat, sleep and catch up. Then rain and big winds returned still 1835 m from Horta when a large disaster for a small boat occurred, we lost 15 gallons (est.) of diesel into our bilges from a leaking screw in the primary fuel filter. This was a disaster because it began to slosh into all our food areas, drinking water containers were at risk and because of the weather "outside", we were living and breathing fuel fumes and beginning to get sick. Things had to be done fast and efficient to get the fuel off board so not all of us would become big diesel fume addicts.

Flat water is glassy oily looking no wind and no speed. Just bangs the boat with everything on it and in it. and all this while Peter and Jim kept the boat sailing and sails in order PC happy, water from coming through the hatches and companionway ans still some air to breathe into the cabin.

Shortly after this complex disaster, the jib halyard for the storm jib gave way and we had no other. A small furled jib which we had no choice but use from then on started to fray after several days use.

Additionally, without immediate knowledge, we drifted/sailed under night and storm conditions into a cold eddy of the gulf Stream and even though the distance was minimal, it took us all night ans the next day to sail out of it. Six hours of full throttle motoring kept us in one spot without any headway into our desirable direction. During this storm, we lost our quite powerful navigation lights from the bow and the radar reflector (the reflector was later found in the furled mainsail).

5-18 We hailed a large ship what looked to us to be military. It turned out to be 1 of 4 in a warship convoy. 2 talked us, their call names were warship 51, warship 56, warship 57, and warship 64. (They identify themselves after every sentence). This day we made one time zone.

We were still busy with diesel and water clean up until 5-21. But on 5-22 we had the most neatest, excitingest [thing happen]: a call through the ham-community from Yvonne and also from matt and Nola which announced the birth of their son, Payden. We had very good reception - Yvonne was very clear [although] my voice did not carry to them. Tom Esser was also involved. We loved every word and talked for days after everything. On that day, we had brunch on the cockpit , it was truly a celebration.

Dinners and breakfast are frequently served in the salon as outside it's either to wet or too hot. All 3 of us eat at once, it's also easier on the cook [Mom]. We take turns watching for traffic, whales, and compass course. The meals are large, mostly one-pot type served with drinks served separately because more than 2 hands would otherwise be needed. Even on our "doldrum days" the boat's motion is enough to slosh everything around. I am preparing table alterations to accommodate cups.

Daily when we sit around, we listen to ham traffic. Peter is a ham, he speaks to other hams transmitting our position and other information if the "air" is clean. Lately, we have dropped most of the US hams since we can no longer hear them, even the "Louisiana ham" (aka Lee Bowman) who had such a strong signal. Instead he picked up Trudi, a British ham net operator who is near 70 years old and works out of her backyard shack and is positively a joy to listen to. (Actually Trudi is Bajian - from Barbados. Apparently, they didn't know this until I spoke with them on the phone). She also instantly sends email to Yvonne. The only other one now is Herb the Weatherman who is very good in his forecasts, but requires intensive participation to listen to and a great deal of time on our part. Jim usually speaks to him giving our coordinates and local conditions. Through Herb, we also hear what befalls other boaters: 2 abandoned boats, medical emergency, out of fuel, out of food, broken boom. One boat abandoned the trip early near the US - a 23'. We, on the other hand, fared well, but are far too slow for Herb who wants 150-200 miles a day - often we make only an average of 60, but that does not disturb the dolphins (more about that later). We only had "annoyances" of some intense kind.

One stand out for being particularly annoying. Not even one day into our journey, we noticed that dreaded propane smell seeming to come from leaky bottles/valves in an area of the bottle compartment and the locker where the #2 fuel was stored. However, none of us could actually determine that the smell was coming from the bottle itself. In the meantime, I felt horror rising of one month plus eating cold food - our lovely trip was going to be ruined. Now I don't remember how many days we took probing this and that thinking this and that until the unanimous decision was made that the smell was coming from the head tanks (holding tank for the toilet). In the rush of last minute things, I forgot to add "head juice". The smell around the vents was indeed massive - methane gas - we should have bottled it! I was totally relieved that I could continue "cooking without fear". After four weeks at sea, the smell is still present and I am happy.

The other annoyance was a moisture problem. During the many days of rain and storms, there was no airing out or drying out anything and walls, carpet blankets etc. started to get mold and mildew. Now the problem is under control, but those days were filled with damp air, cooking odors, methane odor, diesel fumes, mold and mildew in massive quantities. And then came the doldrums.

5-31 Azores High. We were out of wind, out of water, very low on batteries and low on diesel. We are set up to make energy and water by either motoring or by sailing at 5kts or greater. A turbine is towed in the water behind the boat (we call it Turbo). It creates enough energy to top off the batteries, to run navigation lights, and the ham radio, and the water maker (we call it Weiner). Now nothing was happening and right now we are careful to run our diesel only one hour per day so we get a minimal amount of water. We are also careful to save liquid in soups and in canned food. Salt water is used for dishes and bathing although I think it smells funny. Our distance however, does not look unmanageable any longer - just under 400 mile.

P.C. is our German built steering device who has nothing to do right now because there is no wind. P.C. was named after his creator - Peter Christian. PC has been steering us through thick and thin and did not mind at all steering while we were surrounded by great numbers of Pilot Whales.

We have encountered quite a bit of marine life. One tern flew on board and stayed about 20 hours and then flew off. Usually we see petrels and shearwaters skimming the waves. All these birds are true sea birds and they do not know human beings. They resemble a very handsome sort of duck.

The nights were illuminated by the phosphoresence in our wake, some times as large as a platter. During the days we saw Portuguese Man o' War in all sizes, all having their beautiful, colorful little sails inflated and sailing with the end. With the sun upon us and little wind, the days became very hot and night stayed cool and were incredibly damp. Polar fleece proved to be the material of choice.

On May 26th we saw whales for the first time. It seemed like we sailed right into a large pod and the very large ones seemed alert enough to angle away from us except two baby whales surfaced from nudging Libelle's port side going in the opposite direction and scared me thoroughly. This close encounter was too narrow for comfort, even a baby whale is huge. We moved rapidly and watched their flukes and blowing activity for a long time. We frequently saw dolphins, but on June 4th, Jim woke me hollering "Whales!" and we quickly closed all the doors and hatches for safety. After debating whether they were a huge type of dolphin, we later found out that they were pilot whales - huge round heads, breathing and swimming like dolphins, but their mass appeared to hinder them in any high speed activity. They stayed with Libelle for many hours creating wakes, swimming very close, touching almost, racing and matching her speed, whistling and chatting to each other in many sounds - mostly high pitched like bird songs. There were so many different songs and they carried very loudly though the hull. Breathing and whistling and creating a turbulence and experience not easily forgotten.

We saw activity of large mammals frequently far away "as if the water boils" without being able to identify who was making the disruption.

On June 1st, we finally encountered on of the "KINGS": sperm whales. Fortunately a smart group. A very large pod that kept a reasonable distance. But we saw them frequently spout and flash their flukes. One rise ½ out of the water, and one really breached full size - it was like being on another world - how could we be so lucky? True giants of this planet.

Thought on watchkeeping:
Standing watch for ships of course, but one needs to keep an eye on equipment breakage or entanglement. Watching wind and weather change in intensity and direction. Watch the performance of P.C. to keep on course. It allows other to sleep in peace. One also needs to keep an eye on the heavenly bodies so that they do not fall out of the sky undetected/unobserved. There is time for small tasks and exercise in the fresh air and write by moonlight. One also watches not to fall overboard and always preserve night vision. It is also the time for creative thoughts.