by Phil Ash

If you grow good roses in your garden, there is an equally good chance that
your roses will be attacked by a goodly assortment of pests and a variety of
forms of pestilence.

If you grow mediocre roses in your garden, there is almost a certain chance
that your roses will be attacked by a goodly assortment of pests and a
variety of forms of pestilence.

Well, that's the first clue for you! Growing good roses reduces the number
and frequency of attacks by pests and pestilence. Mediocre or poorly grown
roses by definition are more vulnerable, stressed, and less able to ward off
attack. But, regardless of growing success, your roses will be attacked!

Pests mostly commonly tend to be insects in one of their stages of
development, usually in either caterpillar or adult form. Damage is commonly
in the form of holes or discoloration of the leaves, gouges to the bud or
bloom, or some internal damage to petals. During daylight you can see large
insects like grasshoppers, which munch large segments of leaf tissue, or the
green fruit beetle working on leaf or bud. Also quite visible on the fresh
new plant growth are aphids. They're small waxy looking things, light brown
or green or transparent colored, that leave a sticky residue behind. With
their piercing mouthparts they suck the juices out of the plant tissue. As
you notice leaf yellowing, look at the underside for signs of salt and
pepper colored residue, webs, and truly ugly, tiny spider mites, which also
suck out leaf juices. The cutter bees, who cut perfectly round holes in
leaves, are more difficult to spot, but the damage is clearly visible. Less
visible by day are the several varieties and sizes of worms and earwigs,
which populate and destroy both leaves and blooms at night. Take your
flashlight and go out after dark and examine what's going on. The number and
variety of pests may well surprise you! . Thrips are the insects that grow
up inside the bud and damage the petals by sucking out the substance of the
petals discoloring the bloom or worse as it opens.

Don't reach for your sprayer! Insecticides tend to wipe out not only the bad
guys but also the good guys, the beneficial birds and insects, as well.
Instead, pick them off by hand (the squeamish may want to wear gloves), bag
them securely in a plastic bag, and trash them. Or get the hose blasting
again, and using a pistol grip nozzle blow the pests off with a water jet.
For spider mites use a watering wand and blast water up under the leaves.
The roses will love the extra water, and after several days of doing this,
there is a good chance the pests will get the message. No toxic chemicals
are used. The beneficial insects and birds have a good chance to snack on
your former problems. The one exception that will defy the water treatment
is the thrips, deep inside the bloom. Thrips tend to like light-colored
blooms best. Don't make a full recipe for a small number of
thrips-susceptible blooms. Use a small hand sprayer with a half-pint of
Orthene spray mix. Get up-wind, put on nitrile rubber gloves and with one
hand holding the newly formed bud gently spray it. Repeat the treatment
weekly until the bloom is cut and it should be free of thrips damage.

Pestilence usually includes rust, powdery mildew, blackspot, anthracnose,
and downy mildew. These all have visual behaviors trying to call the problem
to your attention. Leaves are discolored and/or fall off, stems get mottled
colors, canes start dying back. If you can identify the early stage, the
cure can be as simple as pulling affected leaves off, bagging them, and
trashing them. Typically, one plant will show specific disease symptoms
before others are involved. If you will visit and look at your roses
regularly, you will be able to initiate treatment early on all after seeing
the problem starting on one. Start with leaf removal if that is feasible. If
all the leaves on all your roses are involved, you are starting late. It
helps to know specifically what the problem is. Splashing water on your
plants may accelerate the spread of the problem as with rust or downy
mildew. If pulling leaves doesn't do the job, your attack plan may involve
spraying something on the plant which will either kill the pestilence on
contact or when absorbed into the plant's system will move through tissue
overcoming the disease. Environmentally friendly, "organic" mixes typically
call for a tablespoon each of baking soda, canola oil, vinegar, and liquid
hand soap in a gallon of water. Organic does not necessarily mean safe to
breathe or drink! Also organic, but clearly labeled Caution are sprays made
from neem tree or jojoba tree oil. Chemical fungicides such as Fungicide
require that you practice SAFE SPRAYING. Read the label and follow all of
the required safety procedures.

Rose pests and pestilence can be overcome. Grow good roses. Know and use the
effective, non-toxic methods to move them off your plants (and into your
neighbor's yard, not yours?). The beauty of your roses will be all the
thanks you need to make it all worthwhile!