Taking the cuttings:

In fall or early winter, after the shrub has dropped its leaves, take cuttings from the current season's growth (these are the stems that bloomed this year). Choose stems about the thickness of a pencil and cut them at the base just BELOW a bud. Cut the stem again about 9 inches from the bottom, cutting just ABOVE a bud. A long shoot will make two or more cuttings, but do not use the tip of the stem. It is harder to root. At the base of each cutting, trim off a sliver of the stem to encourage roots to grow.

Planting the cuttings:

Choose a site protected from winds and loosen the soil with a shovel to a depth of about six inches. The soil should be loose, so add peat moss, compost, perlite, or any combination of these to help improve drainage. Make a narrow trench and spread sand or perlite in the bottom. Place the cuttings in the trench (standing up) to a depth of about 1/2 the length of the cuttings. Plant each cutting 3 or 4 inches apart. Make sure you plant the cuttings right side up! Firm the soil around the cuttings and they should be ready to transplant in by the second spring. This may seem like a long time to wait, but the plants will grow into larger plants by this method.

If you would like to try a faster method, you can take leaf cuttings during the growing season, but they will require constant care until they are large enough to transplant (in about six months), and the plants won't be as large.

Leaf cuttings are best taken in spring or early summer when it is actively growing.

Taking the cuttings:

You can take cuttings from the tips of perennials or shrubs on lateral shoots where the growth is soft and pliable. The cuttings should be taken 1/4 to 1/2 inch BELOW a leaf node. Cut at a 45 degree angle so there is more area exposed for the roots to grow. The cutting should be about 4 to 6 inches long, so cut off any from the top that extends beyond that length. Try to cut just ABOVE a leaf node.

Planting the cuttings:

Remove the bottom leaves so they won't come into contact with the potting soil. Fill a small pot or container with potting soil mixed with perlite or vermiculite (something to help it drain well). Coarse sand can be mixed with the potting soil as well. Water the soil so it is thoroughly moist, but drains well. Dip your cutting in rooting hormone powder. Push a pencil into the soil to a depth of an inch and slip the cutting into the hole. Push soil around it to support it well and give good contact with the soil.

The cutting will need lots of humidity while it roots. The best way to assure this is to cover the pot and cutting completely with a plastic bag. A clear one is best so that light can pass through it and you can see how it is doing. If you have pots that come with clear plastic domes, these work great, too. To keep the plastic bag from touching the cutting, put wooden sticks or popsicle sticks (or something similar) around the edge of the pot. Just push them into the soil where they stick up above the height of the cutting. Then put the plastic over it.

Place the pot on a saucer so that you can water the cutting from the bottom. Leave the cutting in the bag, giving it plenty of light, but NO direct sunlight, and water it regularly. Do not leave the pot sitting in water for a long time. Keep it out of high temperatures, also. The best place for it is indoors on a windowsill or under fluorescent lights.

When you see new top growth (new leaves sprouting), you can be sure that some roots have started growing. At this time, take the cover off and keep it in the same location with plenty of light. Water it when the soil dries out.

Slowly get the plant used to sunlight by putting it outside in the morning for a few hours, and then increasing the time it is in the sunlight each day. This shouldn't take long at all, maybe a few days. Then you can plant it in a new pot or place it outside to grow.