| A compost heap, besides being a most valuable asset, is a convenient means of getting rid of all garden rubbish and yet putting it to the best possible advantage. There are many different ways of composting this rubbish but they all rest on three basic principles: aeration, moisture, and sufficient nitrogen for the microorganisms to do their work of decomposition. First of all, a corner of the garden should be selected as much out of sight as possible, and an area about 2.5 metres long by 1.5 metres wide marked out. This can then be dug to a depth of 15 to 25cm and surrounded on three sides by chicken wire netting to a height of 1 metre, the front being left open. There is no particular magic to the dimensions stated, nor are the digging and wire netting strictly necessary, but it keeps the compost heap neat, under control, and with sufficient aeration. Into this area are poled every day all fallen leaves, lawn mowing, green weeds, soft hedge and plant clippings, dead discarded flowers, as well as soft refuse from the kitchen such as discarded cabbage and other vegetable leaves, apple and orange peel, banana and rambutan skins, etc., mixing up the material for even distribution. It is surprising how quickly this piles up. When the heap is nicely above ground and has settled a bit, it should be sprinkled freely with sulphate of ammonia, a good handful to the square metre. Another 15cm layer of rubbish is added and the whole thoroughly soaked with water. Lime or calcium carbonate is then lightly dusted on, followed by another 15cm layer of rubbish with more sulphate of ammonia, and so on. The heap is built up in this way with successive layers, taking care not to apply the lime until after watering, to avoid the lime being washed into contact with the sulphate of ammonia. Instead of sulphate of ammonia, chicken manure, an excellent nitrogen activator of decomposition, may be used, provided that, to avoid fly nuisance, a thin layer of soil is added immediately, followed by rubbish. Assuming that the heap is being built up in wet weather, there is not much more to be done, but, if we are energetic, when the heap is about one metre high after a month or so, decay will be hastened if we turn it over from top to bottom and rebuild it. In fact the best way to turn the heap is to prepare a twin site adjacent to the original one, and to transfer the half-decomposed material into it. The advantage of this is that in another month or so decomposition will be completed and the composted material from this heap can be used as we require it, while building up a second one in the vacated site. In ordinary circumstances the heap will be thoroughly decomposed and ready for use in not more than three months, and, if two heaps are kept going as a routine operation, there will be a constant supply of rich black humus ready to hand at virtually no cost and with remarkable little trouble. Yet another refinement can be added with equal ease. In a third compartment surrounded by chicken wire, it is useful to dump all woody material, such as fallen twigs, branches and hard prunings, which need to be burnt, not being soft enough to decompose quickly. To this can be added weeds such as lalang roots which are better burnt: a;; pernicious weed should be burnt, not decomposed, to prevent them recurring. This forms the bonfire, and the resultant ash can usefully be spread on the heaps to provide a valuable addition of potash. |