Steves research paper on Acne

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Stephen R. Hodges

Joy Watson

Joyessence Aromatherapy Correspondence Course

6-30-2003
 

AROMATHERAPY AND ESSENTIAL OILS

TO USE FOR ACNE

     Almost every adult that has passed through puberty has experienced acne. Adults often suffer acne throughout

the course of  their life. The causes of acne early in life and later in life can differ.   The main focus of this research

paper will be on essential oils and their use with acne and using the traditional natural medicines definition of

acne. Proper diet and detoxing the liver and bowels are necessary for any full recovery. We will be exploring how

essential oils can help this process in this research paper.

     A complete definition of acne must be understood before one can effectely treat it. What is acne, what parts of

the body does it affect, and who does it affect are a good starting point.

     Let us start on this journey by defining acne by natural medicine. Michael Murray, N. D. and Joseph Pizzorno

N. D. in  "THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OF NATURAL MEDICINE. "General Considerations: Acne is the  most

common of  all skin problems. It occurs mostly on the face and in a lesser extent, on the back, chest and shoulders.

It is more common in males and typically begins at puberty. It occurs in two forms: Acne vulgaris, affecting the

hair follicles and oil secreting glands of the skin and manifesting as blackheads (comedones), white heads,

(pustules) and inflammation (papules), and Acne conglobata, a more severe form, with deep cyst formation and

subsequent scaring. Acne has many causes, requiring an integrated therapeutic approach in order to attain the

desired results. Also, because many individuals have been treated with long-term broad spectrum antibiotics, they

often develop intestinal overgrowth of  Candida Albicans; this chronic yeast infection may actually make acne

worse and must be treated when present". (Murray, Pizzorno 103)

     Acne is a microbe infection that affects the hair follicles and oil secreting glands in the epidermis and dermis

layers of the skin.

     Acne has its origin in the pilosebaceous unit of the skin. These units consist of a hair follicle and the associated

sebaceous glands which are connected to the skin by the follicular canal through which the hair shaft passes. The

sebaceous glands produce sebum, a mixture of oils and waxes, which lubricate the skin and prevent the loss of

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water.  Sebaceous glands are found in highest concentrations on the face, and, to a lesser extent, on the back,

chest and shoulders. Acne is most common in males, with the onset usually at puberty, This is due to the fact that

androgens (male sex hormones), like testosterone, stimulate the cells that line the follicular canal to produce

keratin as well as cause the sebaceous glands to enlarge and produce more sebum. During puberty there is an

increase of androgens in both the sexes, making girls just as susceptible to acne in this age group. While the onset

of acne usually reflects an increase in androgens, the severity and progression of acne is determined by a complex

interaction between these hormones, keratin producing cells, sebum and bacteria. The lesions begin in the upper

portion of the follicular canal with the cells that line the canal producing an excess of keratin (hyperkeratinisation).

This eventually leads to blockage of the canal, resulting in ballooning and thinning. Eventually a comedo

(whitehead or Blackhead) is formed. The formation of open (blackhead) or closed comedones (whiteheads) is

related to the degree of blockage of the duct. With the blockage of the duct, the bacteria Propionibactererium acnes

(Corynebacterium acnes) is allowed to overgrow and release enzymes which break down sebum and promote

inflammation. Inflammatory acne is characterized by inflammation surrounding the comedones. The inflammatory

can result in the rupture of the follicular wall and damage to surrounding tissue. Ultimately, severe scarring can be

produced. Acne is considered to be a male hormone dependent condition. These hormones control sebaceous gland

secretion and exacerbate the development of abnormal growth of the hair follicle cells. But excessive secretion of

male hormones is not necessarily the cause, since there is only a poor correlation between blood of these hormones

and the severity of the disease. What may be more important is the skin of patients with acne shows greater activity

of an enzyme (5-alpha-reductase) which converts testosterone to a more potent form (dihydrotestosterone).

Murray, Pizzorno (103-105)

    Robert B. Tisserand in the "Art of Aromatherapy" writes "Essential oils are natural, organic substances, and

work in harmony with the natural forces of the body. To make the most of aromatherapy whether in skin care or

health care, it is necessary to live according to the laws of nature, especially regarding food. The state of the skin

so often reflects the state of the body, which in turn reflects the state of the mind. No amount of natural cosmetics

and aromatics, however, will improve the skin as long as the diet consists of unnatural foods. Just as the skin needs

protection from atmospheric pollution (dust, grit, coal smoke, etc.) it also needs protection from pollution from the

inside. In this case the protection takes the form of careful eating. The health of the skin depends firstly on the

blood, which nourishes it, and the health of the blood is largely determined by the food one eats.  Secondly the

health of the skin depends on the health and efficiency of the lymphatic system and extra cellular fluid, as does

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every cell in the body. Overeating or wrong eating  may lead to toxic congestion of these fluids, causing the skin

(and other cells) to become slow and inefficient, and perhaps starving them of oxygen. Metabolic waste products

gradually build up in the tissues causing congestion. Because the skin is an eliminative organ the body often tries

to rid itself of these toxins through the skin,, resulting in conditions such as acne. If the body is undernourished,

which often happens in wrong eating, the skin will almost certainly be undernourished. and combination skin,

which is oily in parts (usually on the forehead, nose and chin) and dry in other parts, may be the result of an

overfed and undernourished body." (Tisserand 147)

     Therefore,  a healthy diet is necessary in keeping acne at bay. Essential oils can help detox the body and

stimulate the bodies own immune system to combat the microbes that invade it and get the body back to normal

homeostasis.

     Essential oils are well known for their anti-infectous nature. They also are known for their hormone balancing

properties and for nourishing and the healing of skin. Julia Lawless in THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOPEDIA

OF ESSENTIAL OILS  lists Bergamot, camphor (white), cananga, cedarwood (Atlas) Texas and Virginian,

chamomile (German and Roman), clove bud, galbanum, geranium, grapefruit, heilchrysum, juniper lavandin,

lavender (spike and true), lemon, lemongrass, lime, linaloe, litsea cubeba, mandarin, mint (peppermint and

spearmint), myrtle, niaouli, palmarosa, patchouli, petitgrain, rosemary, rosewood, sage (clary and spanish,

sandalwood, tea tree, thyme, vetiver, violet, yarrow, ylang ylang all for treating acne." (Lawless 56)

     All essential oils need to be diluted into a carrier oil before use. There are several different carrier oils and some

are better suited then others for each skin condition. The ultimate results will be achieved by the combination of

the best blend (synergy) and the correct carrier oil.

     Joy Watson in her Aromatherapy correspondence course lists "Grapeseed Oil (Vitis virifera) -  contains

vitamins, minerals, protein, high percentage linloic acid and some vitamin E - all skin types, food choice for oily

or acne skin - satin finish without feeling greasy, Hazelnut oil (Corylus avellana) - the principal constituent is oleic

acid, a monounsaturated fatty acid - beneficial for oily or combination skin and effective on acne and Jojoba Oil

(Simmondsia chinensis)  - yellow, from the bean - contains protein, minerals and a waxy substance that mimics

collagen - all skin types - excellent for the skin, very penetrative - also has anti-inflammoratory and antiibaccterial

properties - arthritis, psoriasis, eczema, acne - helps dissolve blackheads, dry scalp. Indefinite shelf life." Watson

chapter 2 page 7 CARRIER OILS
 
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     Tisserand in the Art of Aromatherapy writes: "To complete our examination of the effects of essential oils on

the skin we should mention astringent oils, such as cypress and frankincense, which are an aid to healing when the

skin is broken, such as in acne, and in discouraging the secretion of sebum in oily skin. As antiseptics they are of

great value in cases of acne and infected seborrhea (bergamot, juniper, lavender). The same oils may be used in

seborrhea of the scalp, which may manifest itself as oily hair or dandruff. The antiseptic effect is also related to

their use as deodorants. They do not only cover up body odor, but inhibit growth of the bacteria which cause it

(bergamot, lavender, cypress)". (Tisserand 151)

     Another aspect of acne which is seldom recognized is the contribution of intestinal toxemia. One study showed

that 50 per cent of patients with severe acne had increased blood levels of toxins absorbed from the intestines. This

is important since toxins have been shown to cause an increased copper zinc ratio (which stimulates inflammation)

and to enhance tissue destruction.

     Acne like lesions can occur from exposure to several agents:
 
     1. Drugs - steroids, diphenythydantoin and lithium carbonate.

     2. Industrial pollutants - machine oils, coal tar derivatives and chlorinated hydrocarbons.

     3. Local actions - cosmetics, pomades, over washing and repetitive rubbing." (Murray, Pizzorno 105)

     Toxins can then be the cause of acne in older people who have gone through puberty. Toxins are very much

more in the environment today then 100 years ago.

     Robert Tisserand also states "I have already indicated that it is difficult to treat the body by aromatherapy

massage when the skin is in a very congested state, because absorption of the essences is greatly reduced. This is

also a problem when treating the skin itself. One of the reasons why essential oils are so effective for treating skin

problems is that they are readily absorbed by the skin, penetrating to the deepest levels of the dermis, and beyond."

(Tisserand 147)

     It may therefore be helpful if one uses detox oils like coriander, carrot seed, grapefruit and juniper in full body

massages to help the body detox itself of toxins.

     THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ESSENTIAL OILS lists angelica, white birch, carrot seed, celery

seed, coriander, cumin, sweet fennel, grapefruit, juniper, lovage, and parsley as essential oils for the accumulation

of toxins.  (Lawless 60)

     Bowel Detoxification    Many factors contribute to the development of toxins in the bowel - toxic bacteria (such

as Clostridia spp. and Yersinia enterocolitica), lack of lactobacilli and a low fibre diet (many toxins are eliminated

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by being absorbed by fibra) Equally important to consider are those factors which contribute to excessive

absorption of these toxins from the bowel - inadequate secretory IgA (antibody which lines the but and blocks the

absorption of many toxins and food allergens), food allergy (which causes inflammatory damage to the gut wall)

and Candida albicans overgrowth (which damages the gut wall). Proper care of the bowels requires the elimination

of toxic bacteria through the use of Hydrastis canadensis (which selectively kills toxic bacteria, while not affecting

the healthy bacteria), reseeding the bowel with lactobacilli, identifying and removing allergic foods, and increasing

dietary fibre (besides absorbing toxins, dietary fibre also releases short chain fatty acids which inhibit candida)."

(Murray, Pizzorno 107)

     Star anise, aniseed,  lemon balm,  calamintha, caraway, cardomon, carrot seed, chamomile (German and

Roman), clove bud, coriander, cumin, dill, sweet fennel, ginger, hyssop, lavandin, lavender (spike and true), sweet

marjoram, mint (peppermint, spearmint), orange blossom, parsley, black pepper, rosemary, clary sage for colic of

the intestines administered by dilution and massage. (Lawless 64)

     Liver detoxification.  "Many nutritional, dietary and botanical  factors have been shown to be important in the

maintenance of a healthy liver. The lipotropic factors are important for supporting the liver's enzymatic processes,

Liver extracts promote liver regeneration,  Taraxacum officinale  (dandelion) enhances bile flow, and Silybum

marianum (Milk Thistle) protects and  detoxes liver."  (Murray, Pizzorno 107-108)

     Carrot seed, celery seed,  Helichrysum, linden, rose (cabbage and damask), rosemary, spanish sage, turneric and

lemon verbena are essential oils that can assist with liver congestion. (Lawless  64)

     Treatment:  The comprehensive treatment of acne involves:

*    Removing excess sebum from the skin.

*    Preventing closure of the follicular canal.

*    Preventing overgrowth of Propionibactererium acnes.

*    Nutritionally supporting the body. (Murray, Pizzorno 108)

     Diet An unrefined whole food diet is as always, the best. All refined carbohydrates (sugar, white flour,

etc.), fried foods, milk, milk products, margarine and allergic foods should be eliminated. Dietary fibre

should be increased. (Murray, Pizzorno 108)
 
     In summary: Acne is caused during puberty by hormones, bad diets and microbe infections in the epidermis and

dermis. In later years acne can be caused by toxins and an poor diet. Once the microbes have invaded the body they

may lay dormant and reappear whenever there is increased stress, poor diet or overloads of toxic substances in the

body. The proper use of diluted essential of oils with their anit-microbe effects on the skin and body and anti-toxic

cleaning of the liver and bowels can speed up the recovery for those in puberty and those in the later stages of life.

     In either case essential oils are a effective and invaluable tool in the fight and control of acne.