WARNING!!! Rock climbing is dangerous. This web page will not keep you from
killing or maiming yourself.
Motor Boat Rock Climb
- Beginner's Bitch (5.7)
- This is the crack located just to the left of the walkup. Use #1and #.75
BD Camelots for protection. To top rope, tie to the tree at the top
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Big spanking ugly lizard free solos Beginner's Bitch.
- Skank (v0)
- This climb is located right of the corner that has Bastard's Moan. Climb
the face to the underling on the flake and follow the flake up to the right
to the face above it. This can be top roped off of Bastard's anchors.
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Garrison top ropes Skank.
- Bastard's Moan (5.7)
- This widening crack is found on the corner by the trail. It can be protected
with large cams or rockcentrics. Set up a top rope from the anchors above.
This climb has a shade tree for hot days.
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Pat cruises Bastard's Moan from Top rope.
- Army (5.7)
- This crack system starts about six feet off the ground about seven feet
left of Bastard. The crux is getting started on it. Cling the small crystals
and pull up to the small ridge on the right. If you can find feet you can
climb into the crack. Top rope from the anchors at the top. Protect with #1
Camelots. This is a hard climb for short people unless they are lifted up
to the start.
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Miko pulls up Army from Top rope. On the left you can see the start of Hooker.
- Hooker (5.9)
- This is the crack that hooks to the left about sixteen inches left of Army.
It can be mounted from Army or for a harder variation, use the under cling
shallow flake next to the detached boulder and move up and right to get into
the crack. Protection starts with a .5 Camelot and progresses to a #4. Top
rope from the large rock at the top to avoid a big swing on the traverse,
or use the anchors over Army and risk a major cheese grater.
- Shocker (5.11a)
- This small crack is located just left of the large detached boulder. Underling
the Large horizontal crack and reach up to the small flake. This climb will
bite your fingers. Top Rope off the boulder between Hooker and Shocker.
- Navy (5.8)
- This is a fun climb that is the large right leaning crack just past the
large detached boulder. Start at the under cling on the left and use jams
to or a lay back to move up the wall. There are several Variations on the
start that affect the difficulty of the climb. From the underling on the left
you can reach wide right and move up the face texture for a 5.7 climb. If
You use the large flake on the right to start this climb, then it becomes
a 5.6.
- Screwed Blue (5.12b)
- This climb is easy to overlook because it is located between two large cracks
that are popular climbs. To start this climb locate the small crack between
Can Opener and Navy. Move up the shallow line to the horizontal under cling
located about eight feet up the wall. From here there is a long reach to the
resumption of the crack about four feet up the wall. Top rope form the top
of Can Opener,
- Can opener (5.8)
- This is the Large crack just down the hill left of Navy. Deep jams with
the right hand will get you past the first part. Use the Face texture to move
with the left hand. This climb is hard for big guys. Protect with large to
medium Camelots. Top Rope off off the trees above with long slings.
- Cork Screw (5.11a)
- Start on Can Opener and move out of the crack at the large bulge about fifteen
foot up on the left. Continue on to the top. Top rope off the large rock at
the top.
- Motor Boat (5.9)
- This is the large crack on the north side. It is fairly intimidating looking.
Get out the tape and reach deep into the crack. Bridging with your feet will
help move up the crack. Use medium size gear to protect. Top Rope from the
boulder above.
- Rappel
- Tie your rope to the big rock, hook your ass in and jump over the edge.
- Ben's Dilemma (5.9-)
- This is the first climb on the right of the walk up. You have to kind of hop down
over the boulder on the corner. Use big protection to start then smaller ones in
the overhang. Caution mantleing on to the shelf as it is very chossy. To top rope use
the anchors at the top.