Here's the last two parts of my account...The bookstore you went to must be
the one on Wangfujing close to our hotel...We missed going there but many of
our tour mates went and were raving about it... Will send pictures under
separate cover... We are experimenting with putting them on a page... We are
slow at this page building stuff...jojo
 

I walked 7 miles for Mao
June 18, 1999 (Friday)

Our free day… no optional tours today…. We decided we would walk to the East
gate of the Forbidden City where there’s a farmer’s market early in the
morning and a bunch of people doing Tai Chi. We announced this to the group
the night before and told them to meet us downstairs at the lobby at 6 am, if
interested…. When we got down, Eric and Barb were there but said they could
not come… Barb is in pain from all the walking the day before (she said it
was the best part of her trip yet), Eric has joined another optional tour and
was afraid we may not be back in time for him to catch his ride….Martha and
Kirk were not planning on going but they were awake, so decided to give it a
try….Beijing is just waking up at 6am… We see some carts loaded with cabbages
headed for the market…No traffic on Wangfujing… we crossed freely and without
worry… At a stop light, a bus just honks his horn and goes on a red light… we
understand now that a red light does not mean stop, but honk your horn and
go….green means, no need to honk horn, just go… Armed with this knowledge, we
are more equipped to walk the streets of Beijing… Along the way, we come
across a platoon of guards jogging in their leather shoes, a group of about
30 young men in athletic attire jogging, some people of different ages (very
young and very old) walking backwards, swinging their arms in some form of
calisthenics. In a storefront, freshly butchered meat is displayed completely
whole except for their gaping bellies where the innards were taken out…
Martha could not look….

We reach the East gate, and the market is coming alive… Vendors are taking
their places on the sidewalk across from the wall… There’s cabbages, garlic,
ginger, onions, watermelon (of course), lychees, peaches, tomatoes, beans,
corns, scallions, etc. …most of them displayed on beds attached behind
bicycles, like a pick up truck. I can’t imagine how they expect to sell all
this merchandise by 8 am when the market closes…We walk past the market to a
line up of street barbers…They already have customers at this hour….Then
there’s the Tai Chi afficionados….doing an ancient ritual exercise with the
aid of a CD player (one of the many contrast we witness here in Beijing)… We
saw a lady communing with a tree…. She was intently poking at something we
can’t see on the tree bark with a straw. She would have been branded crazy in
the States, but there, no one paid attention. We walked a little bit more and
were surprised to find ourselves by the main gate of the Forbidden City,
where we had our group picture taken the first day… At 6:45,  we were
assaulted by our first hawker, ‘Postcard , one dollah only...many pictures,
one, two, three, four…..’ We decided it was time to walk back…. The market
was filling up with people now, both vendors and shoppers. Many bikes, fixed
up like pick-up trucks with makeshift trunks, are now parked by the wall…
Traffic is much heavier now, and we learned another technique to crossing the
street…. Cross alongside a bike!

We got back to the hotel, had breakfast at the Crystal Ballroom. Mara and
Barb talked about their stroll through Beijing… They went to the Lamasery
Temple (according to them was a don’t miss) and bought some watches for $10
in one of the alleys. Mara also watched a Chinese Opera. The folks that went
to the acrobat show, enjoyed it immensely and said that was another don’t
miss.

We decided that a group of us will walk to Tiananmen Square and visit Mao… So
up to the room to shower and change and brace for the walk to see Mao….Mara,
Barb, Dave, Dena, Martha, and Kirk and us met at 8:30 to start our walk. We
avoided Wangfujing because of the construction, so we walked on south on
DongDanbei to the west of our hotel, and east on DongChang-an (the # 1 street
in Beijing). At the corner of Dong Danbei and Dong Chang-an, they are
building a huge office complex…. It will be the largest in Asia… This was a
long walk… To cool off , we stopped at the Beijing Hotel (where dignitaries
stay) - not as nice as our hotel.

Tiananmen Square is HUGE and we had to walk around it to get to the entrance
of Mao’s tomb... We stop for shade and water… The mausoleum was so near yet
so far away… Because of the construction, a whole portion of the square was
fenced in, including Mao’s final resting place. We tried to figure out how to
get to the opening which was way across the way… Rudy read the guidebook that
indicated there are some underground pedestrian walkways… So armed with this
information, we marched on…Went underground, resurfaced and found ourselves
just across the street from where we were still nowhere near the entrance to
Mao’s tomb.. .

We finally decided to follow a man who  we assumed  was asking another
Chinese for direction… We walk past Quianmen Gate, a major gate into the
city, also under renovation. We follow the crowds… cross the street, we go
underground again and finally, we are by the entrance of Mao’s tomb. Up to
Mao’s tomb, Dena reports, we have walked about 7 miles….No bags or cameras
are allowed in the mausoleum so for 8 yuan we checked in our bag and cameras…
To enter is free… We followed the line that moved pretty steadily…We noticed
that older people where being pulled out of the line and specially escorted
into the mausoleum. Barb decided to make herself look very old and was
unsuccessful (at 67, she looks far from old.  Rudy bought a bouquet for 2
yuan (Silk and recyclable) from a flower vendor… When we entered the
mausoleum, those with flowers were pulled out of the line for a special
offering to Mao’s marble statue…. Then, we filed into the room where he is
interred… There he is as big as life behind bullet proof glass… Souvenir
shops outside, Mara bought Mao cigarettes….

We decided we would all go to Liulichang Street (Antique Market)… Mara,
Barbara, Rudy and I took a cab (10 yuan)… Dena, Martha, Dave and Kirk
walked….Many calligraphy shops, antique books, scrolls, porcelain,
architectural pieces, and the normal Chinese kitzs. Bought brush stand, blank
calligraphy book, cloisonné toothpick holders. I regret not buying a
porcelain brush rest here, for 12 yuan what was I thinking. Mara wanted to
buy this darling puppy with a face like a sharpei but markings like a tiger…
Very unusual…none of us have seen anything like it… Mara will check with the
embassy what it would take to bring him home…. Martha bought a Chinese dress
for herself…

We were all hungry so we were trying to look for a place to eat… I decided to
go into one of the stores to ask for suggestions on where to eat. The lady
wrote down directions for me - in Chinese…. That really helped us!!…
Meanwhile, Rudy found this restaurant tucked away in one of the
buildings….Air-conditioned - thank goodness - they put tables together for
us.. Menu had English translation - 6 beers, 2 waters, 2 big plates of
dumplings, 2 orders of rice, shrimp dish, pork dish, chicken dish  and some
fried sweet potatoes with orange sauce (a crowd pleaser)--- all for 143 yuan
(17 dollars for 8 people with drinks…imagine!). The eating plates were
smaller than any we have used and no forks either. Barbara asked for a fork
and was given toothpicks. .We were also treated to a domestic argument
between husband and wife… a lot of loud shouting,, ,not that we could
understand a word…

After lunch, we decided to look at pearls at Hong Qiao market… We took a taxi
with Martha, telling the cab driver where to go using our handy taxi
instructions sheet from the hotel… Kirk, Dave and Dena took another cab
(maximum 4 passengers). Mara and Barb stayed on to do more walking. Hong Qiao
is a big 4 story indoor flea market… Stalls selling electronics, shoes,
clothing, arts and crafts, food, etc. The fourth floor was a sea of pearls..
Again, the sheer volume of merchandise is intimidating. I have difficulty
deciding when I see too many items and I can’t even look. Martha bought a
pearl necklace and matching earrings. We did purchase 2 more Cloisonne
maidens (gifts for Yoly and Mena - $15 cheaper than the first one we bought
at the Wall).

Back to the hotel to store our loot and freshen up… then all 6 of us headed
for the Silk Alley in taxis…. The Silk Alley was in the Embassy Area… We saw
the Morrocan, British, Vietnamese, Irish, Australian, Canadian, among others.
We did not see the American Embassy. We were joking that if we are accosted
in this area, we will all be either Canadians or Australian.  Side by side to
the real Mc Coys are excellent knock-offs. We saw Tommy Hilfilgers, Nauticas,
North Face, Armanis, Versace, Givenchy, Calvin Kleins, and so on and so
forth… The whole alley was filled with stalls… Very crowded….Calculators
flying back and forth… Again, I am intimidated…. Dave and Dena gave up early
and took a cab back to the hotel. Kirk and Martha stayed with us. Martha
bought a Versace dress.. we see one similar, of less quality material… Kirk
says, ‘It’s a knock off of a knock-off.’. We buy a Louis Vuitton bag and some
silk boxer shorts… We would have probably bought more things if we had time…
We were not even through scanning the area when it started to close.. Silk
Alley closes at dusk.

We walked to the main road to find a cab and a street urchin attaches himself
to Kirk’s leg… he could not get rid of  him no matter what he tried “Sit,
down, go away… let go..”, trying to shake him off his legs.  This little boy
was still attached… Rudy was trying to figure out how Kirk will have to
explain to custom officials why we are bringing a little boy home... Finally,
a lady from a store yelled at the little boy and he let go… Whew!!

We took a taxi ride back to the hotel. Dena and Dave’s cab driver got a
ticket for doing an illegal left turn, according to them, he was very
obedient with police but started driving like a mad man afterwards….So, their
ride from silk alley to the hotel was an adventure, to say the least.  Dinner
was at a fast food place at the largest shopping mall with Kirk, Martha, Dena
and Dave. It was the Japanese bento box style… Martha and Dena had spaghetti,
Kirk had steak, and the rest had the day’s special.  We finished eating just
minutes before they announced the mall closing. Once the announcement was
made, there was a mad dash for the doors, as if everyone was afraid of being
locked in the store.. pretty weird….

Strolled inside our hotel…. Kirk wanted to take one more look at the Armani
Tshirt he liked…. The Karaoke bar caught our attention…. Sources tell us it
is a high priced brothel…. Eric, the Canadian, said he was invited in to look
and gorgeous girls were lined up in front of private rooms and you are
supposed to pick one…. He had no idea of price. Very interesting… and all
this happening in a 5- star hotel. Of course, none of us wanted our husbands
in there…We must have done at least 20 miles today… at least! We concluded
that in the maps of Beijing, objects appear closer than they are.
 

Ohmm, Ohmmmm
June 19, 1999 (Saturday)

At breakfast Eric regales us with how it feels to be a ‘Big Potato’ in China.
Eric was the only person who joined the Evergreen Park and Beijing Zoo
optional tour as well as the Dai Minority Show  yesterday, so they took him
around in an air-conditioned, leather seat Volvo with his own personal guide,
Jessica. He really enjoyed being ‘Big Potato’. Today, we joined an optional
tour visiting Tiananmen Gate, Bei Hai Park and the Lamasery Temple…. Dave,
Dena, Martha and Kirk joined at the last minute. In addition we had Dave and
Allison, The Family and Eric…. The bus took us to the same West gate of the
Forbidden City and we walked all the way to Tiananmen Gate or Gate of
Heavenly Peace….We left our bags in the bus as no bags are allowed at the
gate, just cameras. Our good friends the street sellers were there waiting
for us….. We passed by the army doing drills.. and lots of people taking
pictures of folks in costumes…. The Tiananmen Gate is the main, main entrance
to the Forbidden City… This is where imperial decrees are announced… This is
where Mao stood to proclaim to his people and the world that the Chinese
people have stood. Mao’s giant picture hangs in front of this gate. We climb
up the red-carpeted stairs to the area where the proclamations are made… I
wonder if Mao had to climb these stairs… It’s steep and high, just like most
every step we’ve had to take on in Beijing. Behind the balcony are various
halls for banquets and meetings with dignitaries and for lack of a better
word, thrones, where dignitaries come to pay their respect…. Very opulent…
Paintings of Mao’s glory days adorn the walls….We take our pictures and go
back down and walk back to the bus.

On to BeiHai park, the garden of the Imperials features a man-made lake and
beautiful traditional Chinese landscaping. There is a white pagoda with a
Buddhist temple at  its base….We go in to see the pagoda, more high steps, we
take it slowly, 3 steps at a time and then rest …. Buddhas are found in
various rooms (temples) .. The last temple led to even higher, more ancient
steps (they really like to test your stamina in Beijing!)…. I told Rudy to go
on up without me, I’ll wait for him in the garden… In the pagoda tower, there
is a special Buddha. I’m waiting forever for Rudy to come down and he’s not
coming down… It can’t take that long to visit the Buddha… After a few
minutes, Rudy arrives, breathless… Apparently, from the top, you go straight
down to the outside… He beg the ticket taker to let him in and get me and had
to climb those nasty steps again… We went down, bought some popsicle to cool
off and met with the rest of our tour mates resting at a pavilion.

We reach the Lamasery Temple… Same architecture as the Forbidden City…. This
is an enlarge version of the Buddhist temple at Bei Hai… all the statues are
magnified…. It is a beautiful area…. There’s the laughing Buddha, who was not
a real Buddha but a monk… Lamas were working and worshipping in the temples…
They were wearing red shirts and black pants… I was looking for saffron
robes…More young men than old. At each temple, the Buddhas got progressively
bigger…. And then… the BIG KAHUNA of Buddhas…. Made from a single tree bark
from Tibet… the bark was brought to Beijing as a gift to the emperor and
carved into a Buddha… Today it stands more than 6 stories high… Once the
buddha was completed, the temple was built around it….Very, very magnificent
and unforgettable…We stare at this Buddha for a long time.  Jessica helped us
ask the lamas about the Buddha the Feng Shui master told us to get… He was
worshipped at the temple complex but looked a little different… We looked in
the various gift shops and finally settle on a depiction in jade on a pendant
and a postcard. It’s time to leave for lunch.

Lunch was at a Xingqiao Hotel which has recently been modernized… Nice job….
Same type of Chinese dishes… the soup was egg drop and corn, which was the
best soup we’ve had on the trip, and of course, watermelon. We are resigned
that the rice comes before desert. Back to the hotel, we rested a while and
then took a cab to Friendship Store to buy souvenirs… We had two hours before
we have to prepare for the Beijing Opera so this had to be quick… The
Friendship Store is at the embassy area is also government-owned… It is
better than the first Friendship Store we visited…  Here we bought Chinese
calligraphy T-shirts, Chinese dress for Irene, calligraphy set, mini-mahjong
set, and hand-embroidered panels. We are hoping we covered everybody….This is
where the next item I wished I bought  is - a silk hand-embroidered robe. Do
we have time to walk to the Silk Alley again? No, we better eat because we
won’t get a chance before we leave for the Opera…. So, we looked around the
area for a place to eat and settled on Pizza Hut - meat lovers pizza and
water. (80 yuan). We cab back to the hotel, this time telling the cab to go
to Wangfu Fandian (Palace Hotel in Chinese) and the fare is mysteriously
cheaper.

We shower and dress up for the opera….pick up is 6:45…Dave & Allison, Eric
and The Family joined us…. Little Maraj is lovely in a red Chinese dress. The
Beijing Opera was performing at the Liyuan Theater. It started promptly… We
sat in orchestra chairs rather than the area of cabaret sitting with tables
and chairs. The seats and floor were slanted down towards the front - Rudy
thought something’s wrong with his seat  -  the rest thought  it’s so you
don’t fall asleep, cause if you do, you’ll end up in the seat of the person
in front of you. There were subtitles on both sides of the stage (did not
work most of the time). There were two features, both ancient tales - Picking
up the Jade Bracelet and The Monkey-King Creates Havoc in the Netherworld.
Super high pitched voices and instruments (piercing to the ears, but
pleasant), pantomime, great costumes, interesting make-up, engaging acting,
well-choreographed marshal arts moves and acrobatics. All very highly
entertaining, even for the kids in The Family.. They actually got it!. The
theater shop had many interesting items (they had my silk robe!), but no time
to stop… everyone was in a hurry since we still have to pack. As usual, The
Family manages to buy more items - a mask and a Chinese Arhat (violin). Akmed
starts playing it on the way back to our hotel. We all silently wish that it
gets packed with their luggage and not carried on the plane. We hurry
upstairs to pack. Lucky we brought an extra suitcase, we would have been in
big trouble! Wake up call is 6 am, luggage outside the door at 6:am,
breakfast at 6:30. We leave the hotel for the airport at 7:15 am.

Goodnight  Beijing.

Jojo Tan
Monday, June 28, 1999 

Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 20:35:32 +0800
 

Subject: Re: Time to revisit cyberchismis and nybaliktipon
 

I agree 100 %. Para na rin akong nag-climb ng Great Wall of China.  But if
I were to visit it, I will do it the Clinton way.  Hindi ko man lang
i-aatempt, based on Jojo's account.  Kung siya ay muntik ma-heart attack,
baka ako, matuluyan. I like the shopping and haggling part very much.  Very
typical Chinese, like in Hongkong.  Hindi ka talaga paaalisin nang walang
binili.  Kahit harangin ka sa exit.  Bad luck daw na makipagtawaran tapos
hindi bibili.  For me it is not bad luck, but bad business.  Marami
masyadong "sayings" na pinalalabas ang mga iyan, para ka lang
bumili.(Lolong, hindi ka kasama sa generalization ko, ha.)
'Yon namang part nang kulang daw ang binayad mo, lumang tugtugin na iyan sa
bayan natin, especially in Divisoria and Central Market.  I know na hindi
ninyo ito palalampasin, ha, Jojo and Rudy?  Laking Quiapo at Cubao rin tayo
at gala sa tabi-tabi when we were students, 'di ba?  Mga escapades  ng UP
students sa "Ilatu" or "Ils de Tuls" noong araw, remember?
 
Ruth

- - - - - - - - - - - -
At 12:07 AM 7/21/99 -0400, you wrote:
if you have not yet done so since start of July.
Jojo's China travel is very interesting reading!

Ana B.