Surfin' Airwaves - Short Stories

Surfin' Airwaves!

A collection of short Surfing Stories. Enjoy the ride!

K-Bay Outer Reef

Cruising the outer reefs, a surfer hunts for the perfect spot to line up for the left sets. He's goofy, his board is old, but they're both seaworthy. K-bay is slight off-shore, the water is glass, and the 6' swells are rolling in from the Northeast.

He takes up a position in the launch zone, then waits patiently for a peak to summon him. The rythmic ocean lulls his troubled mind, and he thinks back to the days of J6, his family back home, and his surf buddies. Those were only good times...

A hump in the ocean rises above the horizon to announce to all that a wave is making its way to shore. Moments from arriving at the impact zone, the surfer spins 'round and tucks his board into the rising face. With a quick stroke and a snap to his stance, the surfer has caught a fast-breaking left. He cranks a deep bottom turn, a rapid off-the-lip, and he's gauged for maneuvers on the wall. The rest is academic.

Cretan Surf Team!

Todd, a fellow linguist and good buddy to this day, used to be on our production crew. I traveled to Crete a number of times with Todd and company earlier this decade. An unassuming fellow of great wisdom, Todd showed me the cool ways of Crete. We avoided the tourist spots, and ventured instead to "local" beach spots to windsurf, sip local coffee, and partake of everyday Greek foods. An avid windsurfer, he was also very interested in wave surfing. He was also a member of our Mildenhall Surf Team Safari.

The Oasis was a small hotel on the beach on the north side of Crete, a few miles west of Hania Bay. Yani, the owner, used to rent windsurfers, wave riders, and jetski time to some of the more "regular" customers, including gorgeous European tour guides. Todd and a few of the crew had already established an association with Yani, who welcomed our patronage.

We made a few trips to the Oasis, rented windsurfers, had gyros and grilled sandwiches from the snack stand, and were becoming regulars ourselves.

One sunny day, when the North Winds blew in decent 4-foot waves from the Agean sea, our crew was sitting on the beach enjoying life and the sights. As I watched someone on a canoe-type waverider in the waves, the urge to ride the waves surged through my being. Out of nowhere I blurted out, "Hey, guys! How much you wanna bet I can catch a wave with one of those and stand up?" Believing I was nuts, I got a lot of takers. The challenge was on.

With all eyes from shore on me, it took me a few minutes to figure out how to get the thing started. Eventually, I chucked to paddle, then laid prone on the bumpy surface of the waverider and used my arms to maneuver. Caught the first wave and managed to stand on that thing.

After that, we had a brainstorm. We could rent short windsurfers from Yani, strip off the straps and other obstructions from the deck, and attempt to surf the waves. Yani agreed...full rental price, of course.

As Todd, Derek, Shane and I took turns on the two boards we rented, we became the first to surf the waves of Crete. We called ourselves the Cretan Surf Team. What a blast!

Trouble at Chun's Reef

From: My Brother Lance

6 May 98: I 've been surfing some good waves in the country -- Chun's Reef, Laniakea. Two weeks ago, I thought I was going to meet my creator. It was 6 to 8 feet and the waves were coming in not at the right angle at Chun's Reef. Some of the waves would go in the channel. It was windy, too.

I slept late the night before, and I knew I wasn't ready for this. It was 6:00 am. There were 2 guys out trying to time the waves to get on. The waves would just be a big swell, then when it would hit the reef, it would stand up very fast. You would have to make sure you were on the wave early to drop in.

So me and my friends went out. Stupid... So I'm following my friend, 'cause he has a lot of experience surfing here. I followed him in the line up. We are sitting way out, thinking, "Safe Zone." Then we see the sets start coming. We paddle out. My friend turns and catches the first wave. Now I know why...

Behind his was this huge 10-ft wave. There was no way over this thing. Just me and another guy about 50 feet to the right of me. All I heard him say was (explitive deleted)! Then I knew I was in trouble, 'cause he surfs this place all the time.

I was right in the impact zone. I just dove off my board and went deep. I was hoping that my old cord would hold. I got POUNDED!!! I went so deep it got dark. All I could do was hold on to my cord that was going up across my chest. It was like holding on to a baloon pulling you up to the surface, waiting to see the light.

I popped up and screamed! And paddled in... Not much fun. So...We go surf!

Aloha, Joe