The Idea: Head across country in the general direction of Texas stopping in at 8 National/Regional Parks in about two weeks for some much needed relaxation and much desired time in the wilds of the US. Parks visited will take me through every environment available in the Southwestern United States including deserts, forests, glacier flows, and mountains.
The Parks:
The Trip:
Day 1 -
Depart San Diego early AM
I-805N to I-5N
To CA-99N towards Bakersfield/Fresno
To CA-137E/Central Tulare/Visalia (keep right)
To CA-63N/Mooney Blvd.
To CA-98E (General's Highway)into park
Arrive Sequoia (approx. 350 miles)
Day 3 - Depart Sequoia early afternoon
General's Highway (CA-198W)
Merge onto CA-99N towards Sacramento
Merge onto CA-41N towards Yosemite
Follow the signs because the instructions suck
Arrive Yosemite (approx. 220 miles)
Day 6 - Depart Yosemite early morning
Get directions to US-6E/US-50E
Read below information
Arrive - Great Basin (actual distance unknown, roughly halfway to Arches)
Day 7 - Depart Great Basin early afternoon
Get back to US-50E
Stay on US-50 through all the interchanges and overlaps
To US-191 (exit 180) toward Moab
Arrive Arches (total distance for last 2 legs approx. 725 miles)
Day 10 - Depart Arches
US-191S to US-163S
Arrive Natural Bridges
US-163S
Arrive Monument Valley
US-163N
Arrive Mexican Hat - Valley of the Gods (approx. 200 miles)
Day 12 - Depart Mexican Hat mid morning
US-163N to US-191S
Arrive Canyon de Chelly (approx. 158 miles)
Depart Canyon de Chelly early-mid afternoon
US-191S to AZ-264E
AZ-264E becomes US-666S
Merge onto I-40E
Arrive Tucumcari (approx. 400 miles)
Day 13 - Depart Tucumcari
I-40E toward Amarillo
US-287S (exit 78) toward Fort Worth
US-287S becomes US-281S
US-281S becomes US-287S
Merge onto I-35W S
I-35W S become I-35/US-81 S
Arrive San Antonio (710 miles) or Garland if I get tired (550
miles)
Days 14- 28 are currently pending
Days 29 -30 (31) I-10 to I-8 to San Diego via El Paso
The Background:
Sequoia
- California (Overnight)
Most visitors come only to see some sequoias, but these trees are found in only
a relatively small area; most of the park protects a large part of the Sierra
Nevada range with canyons, lakes, waterfalls and high mountains, including Mount
Whitney, the highest peak in the continental USA. Sequoia is half of a combined
unit of two National Parks, administered together - the other is Kings Canyon
to the north. Sequoia Park has one spectacular valley, Kern Canyon, that runs
north-south near the eastern border, and there are some groves of giant sequoia
in Kings Canyon Park, but the name of each park accurately reflects their most
important features. Both are relatively quiet and unspoilt compared with some
other Southwest parks, and there are few main roads.
Western Approaches: The approach to Sequoia Park from the southwest is particularly exciting. A long straight road (CA 198) crosses the dead flat San Joaquin Valley, through endless acres of citrus fruit and vegetables, with the hazy mountain foothills slowly appearing ahead. At first these hills are low and covered only by parched grass, typical of the southern and western extremities of the Sierras; the road slowly gains altitude, passes around the edge of Lake Kaweah and runs through Three Rivers, the last town before the mountains. It is named after the Kaweah River, which nearby splits into South, East, North (and Middle) branches, each of which flows through a steep canyon. The main road to Sequoia follows the Middle Fork and begins to ascend in earnest a few miles east of town. Part of this section was severely damaged by the floods of January 1997 as were other important roads in the Kings Canyon and Yosemite Parks. For 5 miles the route is along the side of the canyon, gaining in height above the river and crossing the Park boundary. The scenery here is still quite arid, with yucca and other desert plants; this begins to change after the Hospital Rock picnic site where the road turns away from the canyon and heads north into the mountains.
Ascent to Giant Forest: The 8 miles between the picnic area and the first group of sequoias at Giant Forest is amazingly steep and twisting - there are countless hairpin bends and steep grades during a total climb of 3,700 feet. Vehicles over 22 feet are not advised to make the trip; even cars are often reduced to speeds of only 15 mph. On the ascent there are several great viewpoints over the continuation of Middle Fork Canyon far below. The scenery changes gradually from bushes to small oak trees, to forests of fir, pine and cedar, and finally sequoias; at first these are scattered and relatively small, although still of distinctive colour and much larger than the neighbouring trees, but quite suddenly the giants are all around, towering above everything else. This is the Giant Forest, centrepiece of Sequoia National Park - an area that also includes Moro Rock, a granite dome that affords one of the best views of the Sierra Nevada mountains.
South Fork Canyon: Two other roads leave CA 198 giving access to southern areas of the park. One leads to Mineral King along East Fork Canyon; this is unpaved in places and closed during winter. Mineral King is a former (unprofitable) mining area that is now one of the main starting points for hikers heading into the wilderness areas to the east. The other follows the less steep, more arid South Fork Canyon, where there is a ranger station and more hiking trails.
The giant sequoias are abundant but only in small areas, so most of the journey through the park along CA 198 passes just rather featureless fir, pine and cedar trees. In places there are overlooks to the west of distant hills sloping towards the San Joaquin Valley, and also occasional streams, meadows and hiking opportunities.
Generals Highway: The road from the main south entrance station through Giant Forest is known as the Generals Highway; this continues through part of the Sequoia National Forest to the Grant Grove section of Kings Canyon National Park, where there are many more sequoia. The section between the two parks is closed in winter by snow. The road down (CA 180) is rather less steep than CA 198, and is the recommended approach route for larger vehicles. Other highlights of Sequoia Park include Kern Canyon (a very deep glaciated valley in the southeast of the park that is perfectly straight for 30 miles), Crystal Cave (a 3 mile long cavern with many formations, near Giant Forest Village) and 14,495 foot Mount Whitney. This is more easily reached starting from Owens Valley, east of the mountains. A paved road leads to a trailhead at 8,800 feet and there is a 11 mile path to the summit.
Yosemite - California (Overnight)
Yosemite National Park covers a huge area of the western Sierra Nevada Mountains
in central California and has innumerable lakes, meadows, forests and rocky
summits with endless unspoilt Alpine scenery. At the centre is Yosemite Valley,
a half-mile deep depression carved by glaciers during the last ice age, which
now has soaring 3,000 foot high granite domes and many powerful waterfalls,
including the third and seventh highest in the world. The area received National
Park status in 1880, as a result of the efforts of the pioneering Scottish naturalist
John Muir, and has grown in popularity ever since.
Parts of the valley have become spoilt by badly-planned developments, overcrowding and commercialism; however in January 1997 severe flooding destroyed half the campsites and one third of the buildings. It was decided that many would not be rebuilt, and instead the land is to be returned to nature. Other improvement measures include a reduction in the number of roads available to private cars and increased use of shuttle buses, as is the case, for example, with Zion Canyon in Utah and the Grand Canyon in Arizona. Still, even in the heart of Yosemite Valley, perfect solitude is only a 30 minute walk away along one of the many trails leading into the wilderness, and despite the overcrowding, the scenic drive is a must for any visitor to California. Highlights include the various waterfalls that tumble into the valley, and Glacier Point, an elevated overlook with arguably the best easily-reached view in the whole of the Sierra Nevada range.
Yosemite is 200 miles east of San Francisco; three state roads (CA 120, CA 140 and CA 41) approach from the west and converge on the lower end of the valley. CA 120 continues east across the Sierras via the Tioga Pass, a route that is often closed by snow until July. South of here there are no through roads across the mountains for 140 miles. At the western end of the valley where the mountains at either side come close together, the roads become narrow, cut precariously into the cliffsides, and pass through several tunnels - these open to reveal an astonishing vista of vertical cliffs and green woodland, fading into the hazy distance; this is Yosemite Valley, central attraction of the park.
Great Basin - Nevada (Overnight)
The Park: Great Basin is probably the least known National Park in the southwest,
partly as it was created quite recently - in 1986, prior to which only the caverns
were officially recognized, as the Lehman Caves National Monument, and partly
as the area is far from any other famous landmark, and not reached by any major
cross-country road. As with some other mountains, such as the San Jacinto range
near Palm Springs and the Guadalupe Mountains of Texas, as well as other hills
in the Basin and Range landscape of Nevada, Wheeler Peak rises like an great
island from the surrounding desert; at higher elevations, moisture increases
and the temperature falls, resulting in different plant and wildlife zones over
a vertical distance of 7,000 feet. The foothills of the park are at an elevation
of 6,000 feet - part of the Great Basin Desert of Nevada, an area dry for most
of the year and characterized by long wide valleys interspersed by narrow mountain
ridges running generally north-south.
Approach: The park is close to US 50, supposedly 'The Loneliest Road in America', and the only trans Nevada route that crosses into Utah for 210 miles, between I-80 in the north and NV 319/UT 56 further south. Just 7 miles from the state border, another lonely road (NV 487) branches off; the park entrance is along a side road near the little town of Baker, after which NV 487 continues into Utah, becomes UT 21 and traverses wide-open, empty lands for 120 miles before eventually joining I-15. Wheeler Peak is part of the Snake Range, one of the many mountainous ridges that restrict east-west travel in Nevada; on the west side scenic highway US93 provides an alternative approach to the area, and the route to be used if starting from Las Vegas. Just beyond the park entrance, a ten mile scenic drive ascends 3,400 feet into the mountains, with excellent views of the surrounding forests and canyons, and across to the desert in the distance.
Climate Zones: From the park entrance to the snow-capped summits there is an elevation difference of over 6,000 feet, and the steady changes in temperature and moisture result in a transition through several distinct vegetation zones from ponderosa pine and oak woodlands, through thick forests of Douglas fir and aspen, which become interspersed with grassy meadows, rocky outcrops and occasional lakes, and finally above the treeline, where only mosses and lichen survive. Scattered groves of bristlecone pines occur at elevations around 10,000 feet, and one specimen has been dated to be 4,950 years old, competing with similar trees in the Sierra Nevada mountains of California to be the oldest known living object on Earth. The varied zones give support to a wide range of wildlife, much of which could not survive in the desert basins.
Camping: There are 3 official campsites within the park; the highest is at an elevation of 9,886 feet, and so experiences chilly nights most of the year. A good (free) alternative is close to a gravel pit, 2 miles north of Baker and a short distance east of the main road NV 487, but out-of-sight of passing traffic. This is quite a memorable location, with uninterrupted views over many miles of flat desert in the Snake Valley to the east, and a palpable sense of peace and isolation at night.
Arches - Moab, Utah (Overnight)
Moab: The park entrance is on US 191, 20 miles south of I-70 and just north
of Moab, the biggest town in southeast Utah and a provider of every necessary
facility, especially motels and mountain bike shops. This settlement, once a
base for the uranium mining industry, is now a major center for recreation and
is close to several National Park areas including Canyonlands NP and Colorado
NM as well as Arches, and is a starting point for many boat trips down the Colorado
River. Past the entrance station, the park road climbs up a steep cliff with
several sharp switchbacks and then winds for 25 miles through the sculptured
red rocks and sandy desert passing close to many of the major features, although
much can only be seen by walking along various short trails.
The Windows Section: Firstly, the road passes Park Avenue and Courthouse Towers - monolithic spires and ridges of rock standing isolated in largely flat terrain. These have been featured in several cinema films, most famously Thelma and Louise. The route then crosses an open, undulating landscape of petrified sand dunes and eroded pinnacles for 5 miles, before a turn-off on the right leads to the Windows Section, the first major concentration of arches and other formations, that bear self-explanatory names such as Double Arch, Cove Arch and Balanced Rock. Everything of interest in this area can be seen either from the road or by very short walks, so all visitors should go at least this far.
Delicate Arch: After 2.5 miles further along the main road there is another turning to Wolfe Ranch, an old log cabin built next to a seasonal creek by early settlers in 1888. From the ranch a 1.5 mile foot trail crosses the creek via a small, swaying suspension bridge and leads across smooth exposed slickrock to the especially scenic Delicate Arch; perched precariously on the edge of a small canyon, this is the most famous arch in the park and has been adopted as the state symbol, appearing on Utah Centennial vehicle registration plates. As well as the arch, the end of the trail offers magnificent views across the multicoloured rocky land in the park, and across to the snow-covered La Sal mountains near the Colorado border. The road ends one mile beyond the ranch at Delicate Arch Viewpoint, though the arch is difficult to see from the road itself. A steep trail climbs 200 feet to the edge of a canyon and offers much better views.
The Fiery Furnace: The next major feature is the Fiery Furnace - not arches, but an intricate maze of eroded red and cream-coloured ridges with narrow gullies between them. Many people used to become lost walking through this area, and now it may only be explored as part of a ranger guided tour. There is a good viewpoint close to the road, of both the furnace and the Salt Valley, a long depression running through the center of the park. As its name suggests, the valley and all the underlying rock is made of unstable salt deposits, and it was the shifting and bucking of these layers that caused the heavier sandstone rocks on top to become distorted, creating the uneven landscape of fins and ravines that characterises the park. After the viewpoint the road continues past several other arches and terminates at Devils Garden from where a 6 mile loop trail leads to 8 major arches including Landscape Arch, the longest in the world. The 52 site park campground is located nearby.
Natural Bridges - Utah (Quick stop)
Attractions: Unlike Arches National Park, with over 2000 classified arches,
there are only three bridges here although the area also has some scattered
Indian cliff dwellings, pictographs and scenic white sandstone canyons. Another
more modern attraction is the Photovoltaic Array, one of the largest solar power
generators in the world - this is reached by a short trail starting near the
vistor centre.
The Bridges: A 9 mile one-way loop road has several overlooks of the three bridges, currently known as Sipapu, Kachina and Owachomu after their names were changed to reflect the Hopi Indian history of the area. The last of these three is probably the most spectacular, and also the easiest to hike to - the path into the canyon underneath the bridge is only a few hundred metres. It is the oldest bridge in the park, and rock falls have reduced the thickness to only 9 feet, so it may not be here much longer. Needless to say, walking on top of the bridges is not allowed. Kachina Bridge is the most geologically recent of the three and is still being actively enlarged - 4,000 tons of rock fell from the north side in June 1992 - unlike the others which are now situated some way above the waters, however Kachina is difficult to spot from the paved road.
Hiking: Short, well-used trails lead from the loop road to the bridges, and a moderately difficult 8 mile path connects all three, following the path of the two canyons (Armstrong and White, which extends 60 miles north to Hite, at Lake Powell) cut by the streams responsible for the bridge formation. Although the canyons are dry in the summer, at other times the trail passes many small waterfalls and deep pools, suitable for swimming. Another short path leads to an overlook of Horsecollar Ruin, remains of an Anasazi cliff dwelling
Monument Valley - Arizona/Utah Border (Quick stop)
Provides perhaps the most enduring and definitive images of the American West.
The isolated red mesas and buttes surrounded by empty, sandy desert have been
filmed and photographed countless times over the years for movies, adverts and
holiday brochures. Because of this, the area may seem quite familiar, even on
a first visit, but it is soon evident that the natural colours really are as
bright and deep as those in all the pictures. The valley is not a valley in
the conventional sense, but rather a wide flat, sometimes desolate landscape,
interrupted by the crumbling formations rising hundreds of feet into the air,
the last remnants of the sandstone layers that once covered the entire region.
Goulding: The area is entirely within the Navajo Indian Reservation on the Utah/Arizona border; the state line passes through the most famous landmarks, which are concentrated around the border near the small Indian town of Goulding - this was established in 1923 as a trading post, and now has a comprehensive range of visitor services. A paved side road heads past the village to the northwest beneath Oljeto Mesa and has views of other less-visited parts of the valley, then another route (Piute Farms Road) continues all the way to the shores of the San Juan branch of Lake Powell.
Approach: There is only one main road, US 163, which links Kayenta, AZ with US 181 in Utah. The stretch approaching the AZ/UT border from the north is the most famous image of the valley, and possibly of the whole Southwest - a long straight empty road leads across flat desert towards the 1,000 foot high stark red cliffs on the horizon, curving away just in front. The highway cuts through the mesas at Monument Pass, near which several dirt tracks leave both east and west and criss-cross the red sandy landscape, offering a more close up appreciation of the rock formations.
The Navajo Tribal Park: Although much can be appreciated from the main road, a lot more of the landscape is hidden from view behind long straight cliffs (the Mitchell and Wetherill Mesas), east of the road on the Arizona side. This is contained within the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park (entrance $5 in 1996), reached along a short side road opposite the turn-off to Goulding.
Valley Drive: The view from the visitor centre is spectacular enough, but most of the park can only be seen from the Valley Drive, a 17 mile dirt road which starts at the centre and goes south east amongst the towering cliffs and mesas, which include The Totem Pole, an oft-photographed spire of rock 300 feet high but only a few metres wide. The road is very uneven and difficult for non 4 wheel drive vehicles - it is perhaps deliberately kept in such a state to increase business for the many Navajo guides and 4WD jeep rental outfits, which wait expectantly by the visitor centre - typical prices are around $15 for a 3 hour trip. As well as eroded rocks, this area also has many ancient cave and cliff dwellings, natural arches and petroglyphs.
Mexican Hat, Valley of the Gods - Utah (Overnight)
After passing the mesas of Monument Valley, road US 163 crosses 20 miles of
rather flat landscape past scattered Indian houses to Mexican Hat, a small settlement
named after a curious formation nearby with a large flat rock 60 feet in diameter
perched precariously on a much smaller base at the top of a small hill. The
village itself is unremarkable but the surrounding scenery is exceptional and
not often visited, with cliffs, canyons and red rock buttes; the two main specific
sites of interest are Goosenecks State Park and Valley of the Gods.
A short track leads off the road past the Hat to the San Juan River; with moderate effort it is possible to climb to the top, which affords good views of the surrounding red and grey rocks, many of which have been twisted into strange convoluted forms. Near the end of the track there is an excellent (free) place for camping, with views of the Hat and the river. The greenery along the water's edge contrasts vividly with the swirling reds and greys of the canyon walls.
The main road through Mexican Hat eventually joins US 191 which goes north to Monticello and Moab, but before this it passes close to the Valley of the Gods. This is a smaller scale version of Monument Valley, with huge isolated red sandstone rocks standing above the level valley floor, remnants of some ancient landscape. The area has a 17 mile dirt road (FR 242) that winds amongst the eerie formations; it is very bumpy and steep in parts but should be passable by normal vehicles in good weather. The western end joins UT 261 shortly before the ascent up Cedar Mesa, while the eastern end starts 9 miles from town and heads north, initially crossing flat, open land and following the course of Lime Creek, a seasonal wash, before turning west towards the buttes and pinnacles.
There are various places to stop, and nothing to indicate that free camping is not allowed. Since hardly anyone seems to pass by, this area provides a more relaxing and isolated experience than the famous Valley further south. There are various small canyons cut into the cliffs that form the northern boundary of the valley which can be reached after a couple of miles of hiking, and the whole region is excellent for photography.
Canyon de Chelly - Arizona (quick stop)
Beyond the Painted Desert, much of the far northeast of Arizona is barren and
not particularly scenic, with wide empty valleys interspersed with low, scrub-covered
mesas. Three of these, named the First, Second and Third, lie at the centre
of Hopi Indian territory but most of the northeast is Navajo land, including
Chinle which is the largest town in the area and the gateway to Canyon de Chelly
National Monument.
This comparatively little-known canyon is not as immediately spectacular as others in Arizona or Utah but it does have sheer walls rising up to 1000 feet with many scenic overlooks, several well-preserved Anasazi ruins and an insight into the present day life of the Navajo, who still inhabit and cultivate the valley floor.
The Navajo: Just east of the town, the muddy, seasonal Chinle Wash enters the beginning of the canyon - here the walls are only a few metres high but rise sharply after a short distance so that there is only one possible entrance for vehicles, next to the river. A sandy track leads alongside the Wash to the scattered settlements and ancient ruins, but all visiting vehicles must be accompanied by a guide. The canyon floor remains green and fertile all year round; this, together with the protection offered by the rocky walls and the beauty of the landscape explain why the valley has been inhabited for so long - from primitive peoples 2000 years ago, through the Anasazi civilisation of the twelfth century which occupied a large area of the Southwest before suddenly disappearing, to the Navajo who have lived here for the last 300 years. They still keep sheep and goats in the canyon, and plant crops.
Scenic Drives: The canyon actually comprises four main gorges, with many side ravines, branching eastwards from Chinle into the Defiance Plateau. Most of it may be reached only from above by rough, unpaved tracks - only the northernmost and southernmost edges are accessible from paved roads; the North Rim Drive (AZ 64) links Chinle with the north-south route AZ 12 and passes several overlooks. The South Rim Drive is not a through road but offers more dramatic vistas then the north road, ending at the most spectacular viewpoint, the overlook of Spider Rocks - twin 800 foot towers of rock isolated from the canyon walls and a site of special significance for the Navajo - according to legend, the Spider Woman lives on top and keeps the bones of her victims there. Beyond, the main canyon continues unseen for many miles.
White House Ruins: The Monument is administered as part of the National Park Service but since it lies on Navajo land, admission is free. However, unsupervised access is restricted to the rim overlooks and to a single trail into the canyon, leading to the White House Ruins - for all other trips down or along the canyon, a Navajo escort is required. These ruins date from about 1200 and are some of the oldest in the canyon. The trailhead is seven miles along the south rim drive; the one mile trail is rocky and steep in places but well-maintained and not too difficult - it takes between 25 and 50 minutes to get down, depending on your fitness. There are a couple of short tunnels, plenty of cacti and lizards, and the track passes a farm and an orchard before crossing the stream to the Ruins. Near the stream, just before the second tunnel, there is an interesting short-cut down a narrow gully, using old foot-holes carved in the sandstone walls.
Once at the White House, rest rooms and Indian jewelry sellers detract a little from the experience but the delicate well-preserved buildings beneath the 500 foot sheer cliff are well worth the trip. Despite the pleasures of walking, most visitors prefer to take the Navajo jeep tours, which visit various locations along the canyon and last for all or half of a day.
The Campsite: The Monument has a well-stocked visitor centre, near which is an excellent free campsite (the Cottonwood Campground) with basic facilities and plenty of sites. It also has many stray dogs, but they seem to be friendly and well-behaved.