PHNOM PEHN, CAMBODIA
DECEMBER 24, 2000
First day in Phnom Penh. I joined up with a couple of Australians. We took a few of the guys who hang out in front of the hostel with the minibikes. They drove us out of town about 15km to the Killing Fields. This is where Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge killed tens of thousands of people. The skulls were in a monument, stacked high on shelves reaching about 50 feet upwards. These are only a few of the skulls though, many of the bodies are still in the fields, and left to rest there. Nearby the Killing Fields, was an elementry school with kids playing on the playground. It was kind of odd moment when I first saw the kids. As we walked the Killing Fields, a few of the schoolkids came over to us and asked in good English 'can I have some money'.. it was heartbreaking to have to ignore them. But realistically, you can't encourage them to beg from foreigners, its too overwhelming of a burden.
The fun part was taking the moped drivers out there. Weaving in and out of the traffic was an experience. Just cruising down the streets like that, was kind of eerie experience after visiting the Killing Fields. Kind of made me in an odd way, happy to be alive.
From there we went back into the city, and went to Tuol Sleng, the Genocide Museum. This is where the Khmer Rouge tortured his fellow countrymen. He came to power in the 1970s, and mass murdered over a million of his countrymen. MOst of the torturers were children between the ages of 9-18. Amazingly, Pol Pot, the leader only died two years ago. Many of the other high officials from the Khmer Rouge still live in Phnom Pehn today.
The museum documented many of the actual people who died. The Khmer Rouge took photos of many people themselves. These photos are in the museum. Also, many of the torture beds and such are still there. They strangest thing is its all just recent histroy.
Tourists have only just begun to come into the country the last couple years. Before then it was just too dangerous. The Khmer Rouge use to kidnap and kill tourists up until then. About two years ago when Pol Pot died, the Khmer Rouge also fell apart. Oddly though is just because their leader died, doesn't mean the 'former' members aren't just as violent. Most of the country is still much too dangerous to travel in. Still today, there are many kidnappings, robberies, and murder. Its a violent place, and guns are very prevalent.
Also, today, I went to many other places throughout the city. It was amazing at the amount of limbless beggars. The Khmer Rouge also planted millions and millions of landmines throughout the country. This is the other reason almost everywhere is too dangourous to go to. There are too many mines. Statistically, one of of every 250 people of Cambodians have the victim of landmines. Many of them hangout in front of the tourist sites looking for sympathy. Its exhausting to be chased down the street by a crowd of one-legged survivors. I have the utmost sympathy for them. They live it with it everyday, and once a leg has been blown away, they can no longer work in the fields, are forced to beg and compete with the many other of the many poor throughout this city.
Tomorrow, I will be going to take a boat from Phnom Penh to Siem Riep. The roads are just in such a bad condition, and supposedly have a high risk of other problems including robberies or just breakdowns. The river seems to be the best way of getting around. Tomorrow I'll be on my boat up the river.
To read the Next Journal Entry (In Cambodia):
December 26, 2000
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Wintermoon2@yahoo.com