Here is a 'banjara' (gypsy woman) from the Rajasthan desert of North western India. The endless stretches of sands make the enormity of the desert starkness. What we can have here is the veil known as the 'Odhni' which almost bears itself down under the combined weight of the embroidered bead, glass and thread work. Even the weight of the veil seems rich with purpose in a land that shields its women behind 'Purdah'(which literally means a curtain but which figuratively represents a world from the outside with in which women must reside) However the Banjaras are relatively free of such norms and live a life dotted with the wildest of reds, yellows, greens, blues and blacks. While on men these colours appear on their turbans, on women these find place on their 'Ghagraas &Cholis' (long skirt and blouse respectively) The red and black material in white spots draped around her has come out of a printing technique known as 'Bandhani' typical o Rajasthan and uses vegetable dyes in the brightest of hues.
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Decorated Lambani Woman.
Lambanis are the vagabond tribes of India (gypsies). They lead a homeless yet colorful life.
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The Lambani (Banjara) tribes have kept Kasooti art alive.
Their traditional costumes glitters with small pieces of cut mirrors, coins and costume jewelry.
Employing intricate methods of Kasuooti these are affixed to cloth which is made into brassieres,
bags, pillows, wall hangings and table mats. Such articles have a great demand in the
Western countries.
A Lambani Embroidering
Kasooti is eco-friendly and indigenous art developed independently in different states in India.
In Kashmir Chainar leaves and creeper are stitched with color threads. In Rajathan dark colored
silver and gold threads (Zari - see Zari Work) are used in making Kasooti on everyday as well as
the bridal dresses. They also go in for Kasooti on their shoes. In Gujarat glass work Kasooti is
popular. In Uttar Pradesh cloth is perforated and then embroided with same colored thread in
ordered to have a sober look. Such Kasooti is known as Jamadami or Chikken.
In Maharastra and Karnataka very elaborate Kasooti is effected on a great variety of articles.
Ilkal saris are well suited for Kasooti work.
In ancient times the Indian embroided textile had a great demand in the western countries.
Bed sheets, cushions, shirts (cloaks and achkans) of men, caps. shoes were exported on a large scale.
During Vijayanagar times men use to wear ellongated velvet and sculptors of the time have included
such caps their work. At Lepakshi temple, the wall paintings depict numerous variety of Kulavis.
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Banjara needle work has a style of its own. Its originality and brightness are accentuated by its matchless quality. Intricate stitches in vibrant colors and the use of beads, shells and mirrors conjure a magic created by nimble fingers.
Needle work is an integral part of this craft and motifs are basic geometric combinations,
squares, triangles and diamonds.
A rich appearance is created by filling the background with simple chain stitch, herringbone,
long and short stitch. Originally, this art was practiced by the Banjaras (tribals) of Telangana
Region. It differs from the embroidery of Gujarati and Kutch Banjara. Sarees, skirts, hand bags,
belts, pouches, dupattas, spectacles covers, blouse pieces and envelopes are some of the products
of Banjara art work.
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