Any comments please send to km2127793@yahoo.com
I had a chance to visit Beijing China in October 2004, and I decided that the famous Great Wall of China was one of the places I must see. Before I departed, I did some research and found that there were quite a few sections of the Great Wall:
Badaling is the section that most people go (or are taken) to by far. However it is also said to be over-crowded, over-restored and over-commercialised. I have read about Simatai that has been praised as the best section to visit. It is not as well known, and not so close to Beijing either (150 km).
There are public buses and trains (most of the mare non-direct) to go there as you can find on other websites. However the cheapest way I found is to take a mini-bus from Jing Hua Hotel. Their bus departs every 2 days. It costs 360 RMB for 6 people or fewer, eg. (60 (360/6) RMB each if there are 6 passengers, 180 (360/2) RMB if there are only two). For more than 6 people it will still cost everyone 60 RMB. The mini-bus can accommodate approximately 16 passengers. Call them to book for a trip.
The bus leaves at 8.00 am and will arrive Simatai at 11.30am. You will be asked to return to the bus at 2.30 pm (yes you can only spend 3 hours there). Then it will be back to Beijing by about 7pm.
Jing Hua Hotel
Southern Third Ring Road Central Section
West of Mu Xu Yuan Bridge
Beijing
100077
Ph: 86-(0)10-67222211
Fax: 86-(0)10-67211455
I have heard that to walk across the bridge to Jinshanling, you will need to pay extra (5 RMB to cross the bridge, 30 RMB when approaching Jinshanling?). Unfortunately I did not have time to try this and cannot provide any reliable information.
Simatai Great Wall is renowned for its steepness. Tourists are not allowed to go beyond Tower 12. After Tower 12 the footpath becomes small and is not safe for everyone. There are constables guarding at Tower 12. I have been told that if you want to go beyond that point you have to do it early in the morning (7 am) before they start.
After 3.5 hours of driving we finally arrived at 11.30am. This is the view from the car park of Simatai. As you can see the Great Wall is sitting on the ridge. Hundreds years ago the Mongolians were residing on the other side of the mountain. They had to climb over this mountain to invade while the Chinese were waiting on the top to shoot them back with arrows. To go to the top, you can walk all the way up from Tower 1, or you can take the cable car which will lead you to Tower 8. I chose the later since I did not have much time to spare. You can finish the trip (walk to Tower 12 and return) just within 3 hours if you walk fast.
View from the cable car. It is much more scary than it looks. It is quite high above the ground and small, can accommodate 2 passengers only. The passengers are quite exposed, not much fence to prevent them from jumping off. Furthermore Chinese quality's reputation is...hmmm. The ride takes about 10-15 minutes (not very sure), and I cannot wait to get off! Fortunately there is no wind. The cable car does not take you to the top, there is still some distance to walk. You can see the Sky Ladder in the background.
I am now off the cable car. Time for some walk! I actually started gasping only after a few minutes of walk even though I had been exercising regularly before I came. I guess I was too excited and walked too fast!
This is what I see when I look back after some walking. It looks much higher when you are on the top of the mountain compared to when you are on the ground! You can also see the cable car which is now far below me. At this point I have been approached by local peddlers/tour guides. Normally people would just ignore them, however I hired one. The reason is because I am looking for something and I need their assistance.....
Finally I am almost there. This is Tower 8.
My personal tour guide pointed out to me that there was some sort of stamp on the brick wall and told me a story about it. Too bad I don't remember a word she said!
This is the view to Tower 9 and I am now standing on the Great Wall! It is in fact more like a footpath. I guess there was no need for a wall here because the mountain itself was a huge barrier! So many mid-aged ladies made it here. I have lost confidence in my stamina....
Tower 10 and 11. As I walk towards the top, the wall becomes less restored.
A close view of Tower 10.
I am on the roof of Tower 11. Yes I climbed it! Thanks to my tour guide for telling me how and where to do this. But this is not why I hired her.
Footpath between Tower 11 and 12 (Tower 12 in the background). What a mess!
Footpath to Tower 12. You can see Tower 12 and the Sky Ladder behind it.
Tower 12, 13 and the Sky Ladder. there is in fact Tower 14 between Tower 13 and the Sky Ladder. However it is hidden behind the hill and cannot be seen from here.
Footpath beside Tower 12. I knew there would be guards telling me to go back after this......
Immediately after Tower 12. There is a sign saying "Dangerous ahead no walking". The two constables are sitting behind the sign. The temperature (~15 degree C) is a bit cold if you are sitting there doing nothing, however perfect for long distance walking! The wall after Tower 12 is also quite unique. It is no longer a wide footpath and could be dangerous for some people.
I asked the two constables if I could just go 20 m more to the top of the small hill to take a better look. They refused and told me that they would be in trouble if they let me do that as their colleagues/supervisors are watching them! I can understand that it is their duty to stop/protect the tourists so I will not force them. At least we can still be friends, smile!
Let's see what is inside Tower 12. it is quite well preserved for a 500 years old building! On the walls there are Chinese writings saying "I, XXXX, have been here". Typical standard of morality of Chinese people!
Before I go back, let's take a final look at the spectacular Sky Ladder. Is this the end of my journey?!
No choice, I am now on my way back to Tower 11.
Tower 10 and 9, great view!
View to where I came from. You can see the zigzag footpath to the Great Wall after getting off the cable car.
Tower 10 and two local peasants/peddlers/tour guides. They look dark because they have been working under the sun for many many years.
Back to Tower 9.
Going back to Tower 8 (Tower 7 is behind it). Now I have two choices. I can take the cable car back, or I can follow the Great Wall all the way down. I chose neither.. at least not yet.
I left the Great Wall at Tower 8 and went back to the original path. However I am not taking cable car back. I am actually going to find the secret passage which will lead me to Tower 16. It is not officially open and only the locals know about it, which is why I paid a local guide to show me. I knew its existence before I came, but I still need someone to show me the location!
Where is the secret passage? The secret has been revealed.... It is behind this utility room which is located between Tower 8 and the cable car station!!!!
Behind this building you will find the entrance to the secret passage. Now you get the idea, I will not be walking on the wall any more. I will be walking below and parallel to the wall. Eventually I will be approaching Tower 16 from the other end (Tower 17)!
I am now on the secret passage. It is recommended to wear long pants if you want to try this. The ground is not flat sometimes (in the photo you can see a small part is tilt about 20 degrees) and consists of gravel and sand, quite slippery! One mistake I will be rolling all the way home. The Great Wall is now on the left-hand side of me.
Now I have passed Tower 12 and can take a better look at the forbidden section! Tower 14 which cannot be seen previously is just before the Sky Ladder.
Zoom in Tower 14 and the Sky Ladder. I have no idea how to get from Tower 14 to the Sky Ladder. There is a huge drop there! The steepest slope of the Sky Ladder is 70-80 degree. You will have to use both your arms and legs to climb. You cannot simply "walk" on it.
Tower 15, 16 and the Sky Bridge connecting them. The Sky Bridge is even more dangerous than the Sky Ladder. While not as steep, it is only one single wall about 40 cm wide and 100 m long. This photo does not justify how dangerous it is. It is much more scary when you are actually on the wall! Tower 16 is on the peak the mountain although it does not look this way due to the angle in this photo. The guide told me that to go to Tower 16, it will take another 1- 2 hours and I only have 1 hour left to return to my bus!! I really have to return now. I will definitely be climbing to Tower 16 next time!
Remember I have not even seen the section before Tower 8, so I decided to go back to the Great Wall instead of taking cable car back to the car park. The guide showed me another secret passage to go directly to Tower 5 so I did not have to waste time to go back to Tower 8 again. Time is running out so I have to walk really fast. I am now approaching Tower 5 from the aforementioned shortcut. What a view!
Back to the Great Wall and view to Tower 5. The Great Wall in the background is leading to Jinshanling.
The Great Wall between Tower 5 and 4.
Another view of the wall connecting Tower 5 and 4.
Tower 4. The roof is completely gone!
Going to Tower 3 and view to Jinshanling.
Tower 2 and 1 at the bottom. Again Tower 2 is missing its roof. I have heard that the local people take the bricks out of the Great Wall for their own use, which explains why those lower towers (more accessible) are in worse conditions.
Tower 1 at the right corner. There is a bridge taking you to the other side of the valley. If you will keep walking for 10 km you will arrive Jinshanling.
The dam at the valley. This is the last photo I took at the Great Wall as my battery died before I reached my mini-bus!
Finally a mouse drawing done in MS Windows Paint to show you the footsteps I left behind.
Too bad I did not make it to Tower 16 which has the best view. It was also not a good day for photography as it was not sunny at all. I will be back!!!!!!
